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Alexander the Great: Was He Really Buried in Alexandria?

Menna Tallah Salah Eldin, is an independent Egyptian researcher based in Egypt, with a focus on ancient Egyptian civilization.

 

Introduction: A Burial Assumed, a Tomb Still Missing

The death of Alexander the Great in Babylon in 323 BC marked not only the beginning of one of the most consequential struggles over political power in the ancient world, where his generals competed for control, and Ptolemy eventually established his rule over Egypt, but also it marked one of the most famous archeological mysteries in ancient history, raising the question of  what actually happened to Alexander’s body after his death? [1, 4, 5, 6, 7, 15]

The conventional historical narrative holds that Alexander’s body was transported from Babylon to Egypt and eventually buried in Alexandria, the city he had founded during his conquest of Egypt. Ancient writers describe a magnificent funeral carriage, Ptolemy’s acquisition of the body, and a royal burial in Alexandria. Later accounts also refer to a tomb associated with Alexander in the city. [5, 6, 7, 15]

Nevertheless, the physical location of Alexander’s tomb has never been established, and no archaeological discovery has conclusively identified his remains. [15]

This absence raises a fundamental question: Are we searching for a missing tomb whose existence and location are securely established, or are we also dealing with a historical narrative whose essential claims require further examination?

This article examines the historical circumstances surrounding Alexander’s death, the competing accounts of his body’s movements, the evidence concerning the funeral carriage, and the possible political motivations behind the tradition associating his remains with Alexandria in Egypt. [4, 14]

It proposes an alternative hypothesis: that the fate of Alexander’s body may have differed from the conventional narrative. These possibilities remain hypotheses, not established conclusions, but they deserve examination alongside the traditional account.

1. Alexander’s Conquests and the Foundation of Alexandria

Alexander’s career was defined by extraordinary geographical expansion. In 332 BC, Alexander entered Egypt. During his stay, he founded Alexandria on the Mediterranean coast. He then continued eastward, advancing into Babylon, Susa, Persepolis, and other major centers. He established or renamed settlements in several regions, and numerous cities across the territories associated with his conquests became known as Alexandrias. [2, 13]

The existence of multiple cities called Alexandrias is relevant to the present investigation. The Egyptian Alexandria was undoubtedly one of Alexander’s most important foundations. Nevertheless, the city’s significance does not independently establish that Alexander intended it to become his final burial place. [2, 13]

Alexander’s connection to Egypt was one episode in a much broader imperial project. He conquered territories with different religious traditions, political institutions, and burial customs. His brief stay in Egypt does not, on its own, demonstrate that he adopted Egyptian funerary practices for his own body. [9, 10]

2. Alexander’s Marriages and His Final Years

Alexander’s personal and political relationships also extended across the territories he conquered.

During his campaigns in Central Asia, he married Roxana, the daughter of the Bactrian nobleman Oxyartes. He also married Stateira, the daughter of Darius III, and Parysatis, the daughter of Artaxerxes III. [3]

These marriages reflected his efforts to incorporate conquered elites into a broader imperial structure. They also demonstrate that his political future was increasingly connected to the eastern territories of his empire. By the final period of his life, Babylon had become a major center of his operations. [1, 4]

Alexander died there in June 323 BC, his death leaving a succession crisis. The empire did not remain unified under a single successor. Instead, the struggle for control produced a series of divisions and conflicts. [1]

The fate of Alexander’s body must therefore be examined within this political context. His remains were not merely a private funerary concern. The possession of his body, the location of his burial, and the interpretation of his legacy could all carry political significance. [4, 14]

3. What Happened to Alexander’s Body?

The ancient sources do not provide a single, fully consistent account of Alexander’s body after his death.

Diodorus Siculus, writing in the first century BC, describes the construction of an elaborate funeral carriage and the transportation of Alexander’s body from Babylon toward Egypt. According to his account, Ptolemy met the procession in Syria and subsequently arranged for the body to be buried in Alexandria. [5]

Strabo, writing around the turn of the first century AD, also associates Alexander’s body with Alexandria. He states that Ptolemy took the body while it was being transported from Babylon and deposited it in the Egyptian city. [6]

Pausanias, writing in the second century AD, presents a different account. He says that Ptolemy persuaded the Macedonians entrusted with carrying Alexander’s body to Aegae in Macedon to hand it over to him. Pausanias then states that Ptolemy buried the body at Memphis according to Macedonian custom. [7]

These accounts cannot simply be treated as interchangeable descriptions of one securely documented sequence of events.

Diodorus and Strabo associate the burial with Alexandria, while Pausanias places an earlier burial at Memphis. Pausanias also describes a projected destination in Macedon.

What we could establish is that the ancient literary tradition contains variations that require historical analysis .A further limitation is chronological closeness, where the detailed accounts available to us were written at various times long after Alexander’s death, which could have been subject to distortion. The challenge is therefore to distinguish information that can be independently corroborated from details transmitted through later historical traditions. [5, 6, 7]

4. Alexander’s Funerary Customs: Macedonian Traditions versus Egyptian Rituals?

One question that deserves closer examination is why Alexander the Great’s death is so frequently associated with Egyptian funerary traditions. The assumption that his body was transported to Egypt, embalmed according to Egyptian practices, and placed in an elaborate coffin rests on a series of claims that should be examined separately rather than treated as a single, established historical fact.

Alexander was a Macedonian king who spent most of his final years campaigning. His stay in Egypt was relatively brief, beginning with his conquest of the country in 332 BC and ending with his departure the following year. He subsequently continued his campaigns across the Persian Empire and into Central Asia, and he died in Babylon in 323 BC. [1, 2]

Against this background, I find it difficult to understand why Egyptian funerary practices should automatically be assumed to have governed the treatment of his body after death. Alexander’s conquest of Egypt does not, in itself, demonstrate that he adopted Egyptian religious beliefs or funerary customs for his own burial.

On the other hand, the archaeological record demonstrates that funerary practices in ancient Macedon included both cremation and burial without cremation. These practices differed in important respects from the distinctive mummification traditions developed in ancient Egypt. [9]

The royal tombs at Vergina, for example, demonstrate the sophistication and diversity of Macedonian funerary practices. Some burials included cremated remains preserved in elaborate metal vessels, while other graves contained different forms of burial equipment and human remains. [9]

The material evidence for Macedonian funerary customs also cannot establish how Alexander himself was treated after death. Royal individuals could receive exceptional funerary arrangements, especially when their political and religious status differed from that of ordinary members of their society.

Nevertheless ,The surviving literary accounts do not provide a sufficiently detailed description of Alexander’s bodily preparation to establish whether he was mummified according to Egyptian customs or not. The reports of a gold coffin and a subsequent container made from another material do not independently establish that the body was embalmed, nor do they explain the precise method by which it was preserved. [5, 6]

My interpretation begins with this gap in the evidence. Rather than assuming that Alexander’s body was treated according to Egyptian funerary traditions, I propose that the possibility of a different funerary procedure should be considered, including the possibility that his body was cremated in accordance with practices known in the Macedonian world.

A related question concerns the role of Ptolemy and his successors. Ptolemy became governor of Egypt following Alexander’s death in 323 BC and later assumed the royal title, conventionally dated to 305/304 BC. So , he ruled an independent kingdom whose legitimacy could benefit from an association with Alexander’s legacy. [4]

If Alexander’s body was genuinely brought to Egypt, its presence in Alexandria could have provided Ptolemy with a powerful symbol of political continuity. If, however, the precise circumstances of the body’s transfer and burial were uncertain, later rulers could also have benefited from the promotion of a tradition associating Alexander with their capital.

My hypothesis is that Alexander’s Macedonian identity and the funerary traditions associated with his cultural background should be treated as the starting point for the investigation, rather than assuming that Egyptian practices were necessarily applied to his body. Until direct archaeological evidence or a more conclusive contemporary account becomes available, the possibility that Alexander’s body underwent a different funerary procedure—including cremation—should remain open to investigation. [9]

5. Mummification: An Egyptian Tradition or a Practice Adopted by Foreign Ruler

A further issue concerns the assumption that Alexander’s body was mummified according to Egyptian tradition. In my view, this assumption requires independent evidence rather than being inferred from the claim that his body was transported to Egypt.

Mummification was deeply embedded in ancient Egyptian religious beliefs and funerary practices. It was associated with Egyptian understandings of death, bodily preservation, and existence in the afterlife. During the Ptolemaic and Roman periods, these traditions continued to be practiced in Egypt, although their methods, materials, and accompanying rituals changed over time. [10, 12]

The survival of mummification under foreign political rule, however, should not automatically be interpreted as evidence that the foreign ruling dynasties themselves adopted the practice for their own burials.

The archaeological record has produced numerous mummies from Ptolemaic and Roman Egypt, but at the same time there is no securely identified mummy of a Ptolemaic king established in terms of a documented royal burial. Nor does the evidence establish a general practice of Roman emperors being mummified in Egypt. [10, 11, 15]

This distinction is central to my argument. The continuation of Egyptian mummification under the Ptolemies and Romans demonstrates the persistence of Egyptian funerary traditions within Egyptian society. It does not, by itself, demonstrate that foreign rulers adopted those traditions for their own bodies. [10, 11]

I therefore question the assumption that Alexander must have been mummified simply because later accounts associate his body with Egypt. Alexander was a Macedonian king, and the funerary traditions of his cultural background provide an essential point of comparison. Unless evidence can establish that his body was deliberately subjected to Egyptian embalming practices, mummification should remain a possibility to be investigated rather than a fact presumed in advance. [5, 6]

6. Embalming and the Problem of Preserving the Body

Also the question of embalming is closely related to the reported interval between Alexander’s death and the transportation of his body. Ancient Egypt developed sophisticated methods of preserving the dead, and mummification continued in different forms during the Ptolemaic and Roman periods. [10, 12]

Likewise, the reported duration of the carriage’s construction does not prove that embalming occurred. From the perspective of the alternative hypothesis advanced here, the lack of a clear account of how the body was preserved for a period of years, which Diodorus associates with the preparation of the carriage, although he does not fully explain the body’s preservation during that period, is significant. If the body was transported to Egypt after a prolonged period, the absence of a documented preservation procedure leaves an important gap in the reconstruction. [5] [5]

One possibility is that the body was embalmed, although the surviving descriptions do not explain how. A further possibility, if the body was cremated, is that the assumption of an intact body arriving in Egypt would itself be incorrect. [5]

7. The Funeral Carriage: A Vehicle for Burial or Something Else?

One of the most striking elements of the traditional narrative is the magnificent carriage associated with Alexander’s body.

Diodorus describes an elaborate structure that attracted large crowds as it passed through cities. He states that Arrhidaeus, who had been entrusted with the transportation of the body, spent nearly two years on the construction works before transporting the king’s body from Babylon to Egypt. [5]

The surviving reference is important, but its wording deserves close attention. Athenaeus identifies the subject as a carriage built to convey Alexander’s body. He does not, in this passage, provide a detailed account of its final destination, describe the condition of the body, or explain the purpose of every component of the structure. [8]

The conventional interpretation treats it as a vehicle carrying the body toward burial. Diodorus explicitly presents the journey to Egypt in this way, and Athenaeus’s wording has traditionally been understood in a similar funerary context. [5, 8]

An alternative hypothesis is that the carriage, or a structure described in a related account, may have been connected with a cremation ceremony rather than exclusively with the transportation of an intact body to a permanent tomb.

Under this hypothesis, the body might have been cremated and the carriage or associated structure might have formed part of the funerary procedure. If that occurred, the assumption that the body necessarily arrived in Egypt intact would require reconsideration.

8. Could the Alexandrian Burial Tradition Have Served a Political Purpose?

Following Alexander’s death, his commanders negotiated the distribution of responsibilities and territories. Ptolemy secured the governorship of Egypt and gradually established an independent power base there. [4]

Egypt offered substantial strategic advantages. Its agricultural resources, revenues, Mediterranean coastline, and defensible geographical position made it an important center of power in the conflicts among Alexander’s successors.

The political context surrounding Ptolemy’s rise provides another reason to examine the traditional narrative critically.

Ptolemy established his power in Egypt during the conflicts that followed Alexander’s death. His dynasty subsequently developed a royal ideology that associated its rule with the founder of the empire from which it had emerged. [4, 14]

The possession of Alexander’s body, if it occurred as described, would have offered a powerful symbolic resource. It could connect the Ptolemaic ruler to Alexander’s memory and associate Alexandria with the legitimacy of the new dynasty.

This possibility raises an important historical question: did the political significance of the Alexandrian burial tradition emerge from an actual transfer of Alexander’s body, or could the tradition have been promoted by later Ptolemies?

The hypothesis proposed here is that the association between Alexander’s remains and Alexandria may have acquired additional political meaning after Ptolemy’s initial establishment of power. It is also possible that later generations consolidated or reshaped an earlier tradition to reinforce the legitimacy of the Ptolemaic dynasty. [14]

This is a question for historical investigation, not a conclusion that can be treated as established fact.

Conclusion: Reopening the Question of Alexander’s Final Resting Place

Alexander the Great’s death is historically well established. His death in Babylon in 323 BC, the subsequent struggles among his generals, and the division of his empire are supported by a substantial body of ancient evidence. [1, 4]

The fate of his body is a different matter.

The surviving sources provide accounts of a funeral carriage, a journey from Babylon, Ptolemy’s acquisition of the body, and a burial associated with Alexandria. Yet the accounts were written at different times, do not agree on every detail, and do not provide a complete, independently corroborated reconstruction of the body’s movements and treatment. [5, 6, 7]

The evidence concerning embalming is inconclusive. The descriptions of the coffins do not establish the precise condition or identity of the remains. The reported period of the preparation of the body raises questions about preservation that the surviving narrative does not answer. [5, 6, 10]

The political circumstances surrounding Ptolemy’s rise also make it reasonable to examine whether the tradition of an Alexandrian burial acquired additional significance under the Ptolemaic dynasty. [4, 14]

The alternative hypothesis considered here is that Alexander’s body may not have been buried in Alexandria as traditionally believed. It may have undergone a different funerary procedure, possibly involving cremation. [5, 6, 7]

At present, the evidence does not establish which alternative, if any, is correct.

The purpose of this argument is not to replace one unproven certainty with another. It is to distinguish what the sources actually state and until that gap is resolved, the question should remain open.

Therefore, did Alexander the Great truly rest in a tomb in Alexandria, or has the traditional narrative led generations of researchers to search for a burial whose historical details remain less certain than is commonly assumed?

Cover Image, Top: Tomb of Alexander; painting by Gustave-Claude-Etienne Courtois, Musée Jean-Léon Gérôme, Public Domain, Wikimedia Commons

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References and Primary Sources

Numbered citations in the text refer to the sources below. Ancient works are cited by book and section.

[1] Arrian. Anabasis of Alexander, 7.24–27 (Alexander’s final illness and death in Babylon). Livius.org: https://www.livius.org/sources/content/arrian/anabasis/the-death-of-alexander/

[2] Encyclopaedia Iranica. “Alexandria: General Designation of Cities Whose Foundation Is Credited to Alexander the Great.” https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/alexandria-general-designation-of-cities-whose-foundation-is-credited-to-alexander-the-great-356-23-b/

[3] Encyclopaedia Iranica. “Stateira.” On Alexander’s marriage to Stateira and the Susa marriage ceremony. https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/stateira/

[4] Oxford Classical Dictionary. “Ptolemy I Soter.” Oxford Academic: https://academic.oup.com/edited-volume/61673/chapter-abstract/550492830

[5] Diodorus Siculus. Library of History, Book 18, chapters 26–28. Translation at LacusCurtius: https://penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/e/roman/texts/diodorus_siculus/18b%2A.html

[6] Strabo. Geography, 17.1.8. Translation at Perseus Digital Library: https://www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/text?doc=Strab.+17.1&fromdoc=Perseus%3Atext%3A1999.01.0239

[7] Pausanias. Description of Greece, 1.6.3. Center for Hellenic Studies, Harvard University: https://chs.harvard.edu/primary-source/a-pausanias-reader-in-progress-description-of-greece-scrolls-1-10/

[8] Athenaeus. Deipnosophistae, 5.203E–204A (reference to Hieronymus of Cardia’s account of the carriage built to convey Alexander’s body). Translation at LacusCurtius: https://penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Roman/Texts/Athenaeus/5C%2A.html

[9] Musgrave, Jonathan. “Dust and Damn’d Oblivion: A Study of Cremation in Ancient Greece.” The Annual of the British School at Athens 85 (1990): 271–299. Cambridge University Press: https://www.cambridge.org/core/journals/annual-of-the-british-school-at-athens/article/abs/dust-and-damnd-oblivion-a-study-of-cremation-in-ancient-greece/D7D297C9B17BC1B7641E15DC3BF359DA

[10] Riggs, Christina. “Funerary Rituals (Ptolemaic and Roman Periods).” UCLA Encyclopedia of Egyptology (2010). https://escholarship.org/uc/item/1n10x347

[11] Stadler, Martin Andreas. “Funerary Religion: The Final Phase of an Egyptian Tradition.” In The Oxford Handbook of Roman Egypt, edited by Christina Riggs, 383–397. Oxford University Press, 2012. https://academic.oup.com/edited-volume/28112/chapter-abstract/212253029

[12] The British Museum. “Ancient Egyptian Mummification.” Educational resource on Egyptian beliefs and mummification practices. https://www.britishmuseum.org/sites/default/files/2025-08/Ancient_Egyptian_mummification_Visit_Resource.pdf

[13] Fraser, P. M. Cities of Alexander the Great. Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1996. Oxford Academic: https://academic.oup.com/book/47006

[14] Krasilnikoff, Jens A. “Alexandria as Place: Tempo-Spatial Traits of Royal Ideology in Early Ptolemaic Egypt.” In Alexandria: A Cultural and Religious Melting Pot. JSTOR: https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.2307/jj.35529218.4

[15] Roos, Dave. “Why Cleopatra’s Tomb Has Never Been Found.” HISTORY, May 7, 2026. Used here for the reported archaeological status of  https://www.history.com/articles/cleopatrastoPtolemaic royal tombs; verify this claim against specialist archaeological publications before submission

The hidden histories inside archaeological objects

A piece of jewelry can look entirely at home in the place where archaeologists find it, even when its metal has traveled across a continent. At Levänluhta, an Iron Age water burial site in western Finland, researchers analyzed eight copper-based objects, most of them jewelry in local styles. Their chemistry pointed towards a much longer journey. Lead isotope measurements were inconsistent with the Finnish and Scandinavian ore sources considered, while southern European sources offered a more plausible explanation. The objects may have been made locally using metal that had already passed through generations of recycling (Holmqvist et al., 2019).

This distinction between an object’s appearance and the history of its ingredients lies at the heart of archaeological isotope analysis. A maker can reshape metal or weave imported fibre into a familiar design. Some chemical evidence of the raw material’s earlier history may nevertheless remain. Finding it allows researchers to ask questions that an object’s style alone cannot answer.

For archaeologists working with laboratories such as SGS Beta and SGS Isobar, the starting point is a question about a material’s history. Choosing what to sample matters as much as choosing what to measure. Which part of an object preserves the evidence we need?

Reading an object at the atomic scale

Isotopes are forms of the same element with different numbers of neutrons. Their proportions can vary between materials. Some variations arise from geological history, while others reflect biological or environmental processes. Laboratories measure these proportions using mass spectrometers. What the measurements mean depends on the element, the material and the process that produced it (De Ceuster et al., 2025; von Holstein et al., 2016).

Lead isotope ratios, for example, can help compare a metal object with candidate ore sources through isotope provenance analysis. However, different mining regions can have overlapping isotope signatures, making it difficult to identify a unique source (De Ceuster et al., 2025). Combining multiple isotope systems can improve this distinction by introducing additional dimensions for comparison, potentially separating sources that appear similar when examined using a single system. In a 2026 study of ochre pigments, Maddison Lauer and colleagues demonstrated how combining strontium and neodymium isotope ratios could distinguish sampled sources, while lead isotope measurements revealed further differences within them (Lauer et al., 2026).

For the Levänluhta jewelry, the archaeological implication is therefore a connection with wider metal circulation, rather than a reconstructed itinerary for an individual trader. The authors’ evidence for recycling adds another complication: the metal’s journey could have begun well before the objects acquired their surviving forms (Holmqvist et al., 2019).

Color carries a history too

The same approach extends to materials that once decorated bodies and buildings. Egyptian blue is a manufactured copper-bearing pigment. Its ingredients connect the history of color to the procurement and reuse of metals.

At Amara West in present-day Sudan, researchers combined elemental measurements with lead isotope analysis of metal objects and pigments. The settlement was a center of Egyptian administration in Upper Nubia between about 1300 and 1070 BCE. Their findings identified scrap copper alloys as an important colorant source for Egyptian blue manufacture. Pigment analysis also revealed copper supply information that the surviving metal objects alone did not capture (Rademakers et al., 2023).

This opens an intriguing possibility for archaeological interpretation. Materials normally catalogued separately can preserve evidence of connected craft practices. A pigment may help explain how metal circulated within a settlement, even when much of the metal itself was recovered and reused.

Cosmetics offer a related example. In a 2024 study, Caterina Zaggia and colleagues analyzed lead isotopes in eleven kohl samples from Bronze Age funerary contexts in Sudanese Lower Nubia. Some samples were consistent with galena from Gebel el-Zeit, an Egyptian mining area near the Red Sea. Other samples suggested additional sources, which could not be securely identified with the available ore data. These small traces of eye cosmetic provided evidence of supply networks connecting Nubian communities with Egypt. Such findings highlight how isotope analysis can uncover connections between ancient societies that are not always apparent from surviving objects or written records, revealing a more interconnected world than the archaeological record alone might suggest (Zaggia et al., 2024).

Following the ingredients of glass

Glass poses a particular challenge because its ingredients need not share a single origin. A useful provenance study must establish which ingredient controls the isotope signal being measured.

A study of ancient glass from Gerasa, modern Jerash in Jordan, illustrates the value of selecting the right isotope system. Gry Barfod and colleagues investigated glass made using natron, a mineral soda, and sand. Strontium and neodymium isotope measurements did not adequately distinguish the Egyptian and Levantine sources in their dataset. Hafnium isotopes did, helping establish an Egyptian origin for the antimony-decolorized Roman glass they studied (Barfod et al., 2020).

The result depended on the geology of the sand, including its zircon component. It also offers a wider lesson: an isotope system that separates sources effectively in one setting may be less useful elsewhere. The research question should determine the analytical combination, supported by reference materials from the candidate regions (Barfod et al., 2020).

Tracing the origins of ancient textiles

Textiles introduce a different kind of history. Their fibres formed in living organisms before anyone spun or wove them.

In 2016, Isabella von Holstein and colleagues examined medieval wool from north-western Europe using carbon, nitrogen and non-exchangeable hydrogen isotopes. Comparing archaeological textiles (keratin) and sheep bones (collagen) with modern wool helped them assess whether fabrics were compatible with local production. Considering the isotope measurements together revealed regional patterns and helped identify potentially non-local textiles, while also accounting for differences in animal husbandry. The study demonstrated that wool preserved in waterlogged, oxygen-poor deposits could retain useful provenance information despite degradation (von Holstein et al., 2016).

Strontium provides another route into the origins of plant fibres. A 2023 investigation of ancient cotton from north-western Arabia compared archaeological material with modern plants and groundwater to establish a local isotopic baseline. Cotton seeds from Hegra were consistent with local cultivation, an interpretation strengthened by their archaeological context and repeated occurrence as processing waste. Yet other regions could share similar isotope values. The evidence for local production emerged from the combination of chemistry and context (Ryan et al., 2023).

The same study tested cleaning procedures because material acquired during burial can change a textile’s strontium signal. This matters because researchers want to identify where a fibre grew, rather than simply measure the sediment that later surrounded it. At Hegra, evidence for local cotton cultivation also offers insights into the spread of specialized agricultural and textile production. The researchers suggest that Nabataean communities played an important role in introducing and processing cotton in the region, while also participating in wider trade networks. Such distinctions can help reconstruct ancient economies, although identifying the origin of a fibre does not necessarily establish where the finished cloth was woven (Ryan et al., 2023).

Evidence within cooking pots

A pottery fragment can preserve evidence of what people prepared in it. Researchers may examine visible carbonized deposits or extract fats absorbed into the vessel wall. Carbon isotope differences help distinguish broad food sources, including plants using different photosynthetic pathways. Nitrogen isotope measurements of charred residues can provide additional information about changes in ingredients and food preparation, although overlapping values between different foods and the effects of heating complicate interpretation. Together, these measurements can reveal patterns of cooking without necessarily identifying an exact recipe (Miller et al., 2020).

Melanie Miller and colleagues explored this problem through a year-long experiment, repeatedly cooking foods in unglazed pots before changing the recipes. Charred food remains reflected the latest ingredients more closely, while thin surface deposits retained evidence of earlier cooking. Fats within the pottery changed more slowly. Sampling different parts of the same pot could therefore recover different portions of its cooking history (Miller et al., 2020).

More specific questions can be addressed by isolating individual compounds. At Kotada Bhadli, an Indus civilisation settlement in present-day Gujarat occupied around 2300–1950 BCE, researchers measured carbon isotopes in fatty acids preserved within pottery. Their results provided direct evidence of dairy processing. Interpreted alongside evidence for animal management, the dairy residues were attributed to cattle and possibly water buffalo (Chakraborty et al., 2020).

This is a particularly intimate form of archaeological evidence. The architecture of a settlement can reveal where people lived, while residues in a vessel bring us closer to what happened inside a household. Identifying dairy processing also helps connect livestock management with the use of animal products. It does not, by itself, establish that everyone in the community consumed the same foods or reveal the precise dish once served (Chakraborty et al., 2020).

Putting the puzzle pieces together through time

Provenance and food studies become more informative when anchored to a chronology. Radiocarbon dating measures the remaining carbon-14 in suitable carbon-bearing material. After carbon exchange ceases, radioactive decay decreases its abundance. Accelerator mass spectrometry, or AMS, allows laboratories to measure small quantities of radiocarbon, widening the possibilities for archaeological sampling. The practical dating limit depends on preservation, contamination and analytical performance, broadly reaching around 50,000 years under suitable conditions (Hajdas et al., 2021).

The measurement must then be calibrated because atmospheric carbon-14 has varied through time. IntCal20 provides a calibration curve for Northern Hemisphere atmospheric samples extending to 55,000 calendar years before present. Here, “present” means 1950 with the advent of radiocarbon dating and shortly preceding the wide-spread atmospheric nuclear testing which doubled atmospheric radiocarbon and necessitated the adoption of separate calibrations (Libby & Johnson, 1955). This curve’s span is not a promise that every sample can be reliably dated to its oldest limit (Reimer et al., 2020).

Calibration can produce several possible calendar intervals for one measured radiocarbon age. The appropriate curve also depends on the carbon source and geographical setting. Marine samples require a different treatment from terrestrial plants, including attention to reservoir effects. A responsible interpretation retains these uncertainties and uses independently justified archaeological information to assess the chronology (Reimer et al., 2020).

Equally important is deciding what event the sample can date. Carbon in an inner tree ring may have formed centuries before the tree was felled, while timber could subsequently be stored, used and reused long before being burned or discarded. This is known as the “old-wood problem”: a radiocarbon measurement may date the growth of the wood rather than its final use or the archaeological context in which it was found. Material associated with a vessel may likewise relate to its use rather than manufacture. Reviews of archaeological dating emphasise that sample selection and the origin of the dated carbon are fundamental to connecting a laboratory age with a historical event (Bíšková et al., 2023).

Making a small sample count

The ability to work with small samples makes isotope analysis attractive for valuable collections, but it also raises the importance of preparation. Conservation treatments and carbon acquired after burial can affect a radiocarbon result. Removing contamination is part of the analytical method, and the material required depends on how much suitable carbon remains after preparation (Hajdas et al., 2021).

For a curator or excavation team, this makes early discussion with the laboratory worthwhile. The proposed sample should answer a defined question, with its exact location on the object recorded and previous treatments disclosed. Sampling plans should also leave room for future investigations. Small sample size is useful only if the resulting measurement can be interpreted reliably (Bíšková et al., 2023).

An object’s isotope composition acquires historical meaning through comparison. Researchers need suitable reference materials, an understanding of how the object was made, and evidence for what happened after burial. The most compelling discoveries arise when those strands reinforce one another.

A locally styled ornament can then become evidence of distant exchange. A pigment can reveal the reuse of valuable metal. The remains of an ordinary meal can illuminate how a household managed its animals. These are histories of human choices, preserved within materials that people worked and used. Isotope science gives archaeologists another way to investigate them.

Image, Top: Collection of earthenware sherds including rims and body fragments from Kalam Hill settlement site, Dukku LGA, Gombe State, Nigeria. Collected July 2021. Dauda Olamilekan Yusuf, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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Ancient Egyptian tomb shows how burial trends changed over hundreds of years

The preservation of the ritual importance of Egyptian burial practices over centuries of reuse has been uncovered in an ancient tomb. The archeological finds at Thebes offer a unique glimpse into the burial customs of several dynasties by revealing shifting placements of mummies, caskets, and grave goods.

Archaeologists Examine a Tomb Reused Across Centuries

Researchers have found evidence of shifting burial practices in the first millennium BCE by analyzing Tomb TT 209 in the Theban Necropolis, which is located on the western bank of the Nile, close to Luxor.

Researchers from Spain’s University of La Laguna studied the tomb’s third chamber and traced its use from the Twenty-fifth Dynasty to the Ptolemaic era. The chamber was not left sealed after the first interments, but was opened again and again to make room for further graves.

A total of sixteen mummified bodies were found throughout the inquiry, along with a mummified dog and the disturbed remains of four other humans. Researchers discovered nine funerary deposits, including both single and multiple interments.

These findings suggest the tomb may not have served as a burial place for a single historical period, but rather as a dynamic funerary setting.

Early Burials Reflected Individual Status and Wealth

People were laid to rest in coffins with funerary artifacts in the first interments in the room, which were relatively isolated.

Items connected to the amphorae of the Phoenicians were among the imported commodities, amulets, and funeral nets that were found alongside them. These objects suggest that considerable resources were devoted to the earliest burials.

Objects of protection and material belongings might have religious meaning in ancient Egyptian funeral rituals. A strong belief in the afterlife drove the use of amulets for protection, as well as the maintenance of the body.

Coffins helped identify certain areas within the chamber, as shown by the layout of these early graves.

Later Generations Changed the Arrangement of the Dead

Burial practices became more concentrated as the tomb continued to be used.

Afterward, particularly during the Persian period, more dead were interred in areas that had previously been used for burials. A few mummies were stacked on top of one another, forming a vertical pattern in the deposits.

The limb arrangement also evolved. Those buried later in life occasionally had their arms crossed, while earlier ones were typically discovered with their arms outstretched. On rare occasions, the Osirian funeral pose, crossed arms over the chest, was used.

Rather than a complete break with religious traditions, these variations point to a slow but steady shift in burial practices.

The research shows that later interments followed recognizable spatial patterns, even as the room became more crowded.

A Mummified Dog Offers Clues to Funerary Beliefs

Surprisingly, one find had a mummified dog resting on top of two human mummies.

Interred with the animal were four human mummies in an overlapping configuration, which had been discovered in a series of subsequent graves.

Researchers offered several potential explanations. Although the evidence cannot establish a definitive connection, the dog’s position suggests a possible association with the deceased individuals.

Another explanation might be the animal’s symbolic significance in beliefs about the hereafter. Psychopomp was a name used by several ancient societies to denote creatures that were believed to guide the dead.

The finding emphasizes how difficult it is to decipher funeral deposits. Archaeological context remains crucial for evaluating potential explanations, even when an object’s or animal’s placement might imply ritual significance.

What Burial Objects Reveal About Ancient Egyptian Society

Concerns about shifting societal norms have been raised by the shift from individual coffined burials to denser arrangements.

Despite signs of meticulous mummification, later interments sometimes lacked coffins, whereas earlier ones had expensive funeral furnishings.

A person’s lack of a coffin does not always indicate a lower social rank. Possible factors that impacted the preparation and positioning of the dead included shifting religious tastes, burial plans, and available space.

Therefore, the study casts doubt on theories that see overcrowding in tomb chambers as a sign of disarray or a decline in burial practices.

Instead, archaeologists consider how the burial site’s symbolic significance and organization changed through repeated use.

Understanding the Historical Context of Egyptian Burial Traditions

It is also possible to place the results of TT 209 into the larger context of Egyptian burial practices and beliefs.

Over several dynasties, burial rites evolved in response to shifting social customs and religious beliefs. Although their shapes and configurations changed over time, mummification, funeral artifacts, and tomb architecture remained significant.

The findings can also be understood within the wider historical context of ancient Egyptian civilization. Readers exploring topics such as pharaohs, monuments and funerary traditions can try this quiz from Aurelius: Learn History to review general historical knowledge. However, archaeological research remains essential for understanding specific burial practices and excavation findings.

While these broader historical sources set the stage, archaeological investigations provide the primary evidence for determining specific burial locations and customs.

Archaeological Evidence and the Challenges of Interpretation

It is not easy to piece together the past of a tomb that has been utilized several times.

Disruptions caused by floods, fires, and humans were felt in the TT 209 chamber. The original sequence can be difficult to identify because later burials occasionally displaced earlier deposits.

The researchers meticulously recorded the mummies’ placements, orientations, and connections to the things they were kept with. Patterns that could have looked strange without this method were able to be located.

These results show that spatial linkages and depositional context matter more than individual artifacts when interpreting archaeological data.

By examining how different generations used and interacted with preexisting graves, researchers can better understand the evolving connection between burial sites, rituals, and cultural memory.

Tomb TT 209 shows that ancient Egyptian burial practices were dynamic and subject to change. While rituals related to the deceased remained, repeated interments transformed the chamber. The artifacts unearthed there link shifting funerary traditions to concepts of memory, location, and continuity throughout history.

Image, Top: Tomb TT 209 panoramic view. K. Harzbecher Spezzia, CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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Studying past landscapes to understand the adaptation of early Homo sapiens

CNRS—Around 300,000 years ago, the emergence of the first Homo sapiens in Africa was accompanied by major cultural and technological changes, marking the beginning of a new archaeological period, the Middle Stone Age. At that time, African landscapes were also undergoing profound transformations. To understand how the earliest members of our species lived and adapted, it is therefore essential to reconstruct the environments in which they lived. This is precisely what an international team led by scientists from the CNRS1 and the University of Kiel in Germany set out to do, by studying sediments at the Florisbad and Lombard’s Drift sites, located in central South Africa. Their findings, published in Communications Earth & Environment, show that around 200,000 years ago, the region was home to ecosystems that have no modern equivalent. This suggests that our ancestors showed remarkably flexible behaviour in order to survive in these constantly changing landscapes.

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Although the central interior of South Africa is currently dominated by vast, arid grasslands, 200,000 years ago the region featured a significant proportion of shrubs and plants adapted to more temperate conditions, as well as a substantial supply of fresh water. Rainfall was also more evenly distributed throughout the year, in contrast to the seasonal pattern that characterizes the region today. In other words, these ‘non-analagous’ landscapes of the past do not correspond to any of the major types of ecosystem found in South Africa today. However, especially at Florisbad, such changes may have helped to alter the availability of food resources and, consequently, the practices of early Homo sapiens.

To reach these conclusions, the scientists analyzed, at both archaeological sites, n-alkanes, molecules found in the waxes that protect plant leaves, and which are preserved in the sedimentary beds. The different forms of carbon and hydrogen making up these molecules provide information about, in particular, past vegetation and climatic conditions. Using the luminescence dating method on sand grains, the scientists were able to assign an age of around 200,000 years to certain sedimentary beds at Florisbad, where one of the oldest skulls attributed to Homo sapiens was discovered in 1932.

By comparing the characteristics of these ancient landscapes–reconstructed from the sediments–with those of the stone tools and faunal remains found at the Florisbad excavation site, the researchers identified a correlation between environmental productivity and flaking techniques. During periods when food resources were probably less abundant or more difficult to access, tools were more heavily retouched. This additional work would have made them more durable and enabled them to be reused, thereby optimizing the time spent on their manufacture. Conversely, when resources were more readily available, minimally retouched flakes, which were quicker to produce, would have been sufficient for cutting meat.

These differences suggest that our ancestors were constantly adapting their subsistence strategies, such as the management of raw materials and the processing of animal carcasses, to the constraints of their changing ecosystems. These findings highlight the role that environmental changes may have played in the lifeways of the earliest members of our species. Applied to other sites in southern Africa, this approach could lead to a better understanding of the role of climatic variability and ecosystem change in the history of early human populations.

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The Florisbad wetland, now surrounded by a semi-arid landscape, was part of a system of lakes and rivers that criss-crossed the interior of South Africa during the Pleistocene.© Michael Toffolo

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The Florisbad wetland, now surrounded by a semi-arid landscape, was part of a system of lakes and rivers that criss-crossed the interior of South Africa during the Pleistocene.© Michael Toffolo

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Notes :

1-From the laboratory Archéosciences Bordeaux : matériaux, temps, images et sociétés (CNRS/Bordeaux Montaigne University)

Bibliography :

Non-analog environments supported early Homo sapiens in southern Africa 200 000 years ago. Michaela Ecker et al. Communications Earth & Environment, October 2026. https://www.nature.com/articles/s43247-026-04116-4   

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Article Source: CNRS news release.

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POPULAR ARCHAEOLOGY ON INSTAGRAM

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Ancient DNA in the Neanderthal Mirror

Peter Sahlins is a historian of early modern Europe and professor emeritus of history at the University of California, Berkeley. His book, Neanderthals Among Us: The Making of a Prehistoric Human (Oneworld, 2026), has been published in Great Britain and will be released in North America by Harvard University Press in January 2027.

Why are we so obsessed with a group of prehistoric humans who disappeared some 40,000 years ago? Ever since the discovery of the first named Neanderthal fossils in 1856, scientists have struggled to make sense of them in tens of thousands of books and articles. But the never-ending Neanderthal problem is not just a chapter continuously revisited in the scientific study of human origins, nor is it only about them: the purchase that Neanderthals have in popular culture—in film, fiction, advertising, and political rhetoric—suggests that our fascination has been mostly about us.

In both science and popular culture, Neanderthals have long been a mirror reflecting and refracting who we think we are. In Neanderthals Among Us: The Making of a Prehistoric Human (Harvard University Press, 2027), I suggest how the mirror has tracked our redemption and rehabilitation of Neanderthals in science and popular culture, from brutish ape-men “others” to culturally endowed humans, kindred just like “us.” In that uneven, century-long arc, that mirror has served us in two ways: supporting our claims of exceptionalism and uniqueness (what I’ve called our “Sapiens Superiority Complex”), and exploring our own differences, especially of race and gender. Along the way, we’ve used Neanderthals at different moments in different ways to reflect on our violent proclivities, definitions of the human, and threats to our survival as a species.

For a long time, the Neanderthal mirror was made from fragments of fossilized bone and knapped stones, studied by paleontologists and archaeologists, and then constructed and diffused through museum dioramas, magazine illustrations, documentary films, and prehistoric fiction. But in the last 20 years, molecules have taken precedence, as geneticists, computational biologists, and molecular anthropologists invented and refined ancient DNA analysis in the field of paleogenomics. Their work has cracked the mirror, reshaping long-rehearsed fables about our prehistoric cousins. A recent example is a report in Science (February 26, 2026), “Interbreeding Between Neanderthals and Modern Humans Was Strongly Sex Biased,” which revises our gendered and hierarchical assumptions about the encounter. This claim, like other revelations about the Neanderthal genome, shifts the ground beneath the myth of our dominance and conquest of the planet, inherited from the late 19th century and long rehearsed in scientific works and commercial fiction. And it reshapes the Neanderthal mirror in unexpected ways.

In the traditional prehistoric fairy tale, Homo sapiens began arriving in Europe some 45,000 years ago, smarter and more imaginative than the indigenous Neanderthals, and armed with superior tools and weaponry. A violent, gendered conquest ensued: Male Homo sapiens raped Neanderthal women and slaughtered the natives, as a superior, brainier species “replaced” a lesser and more primitive one. That story, already familiar as a colonial fable, remains embedded in our scientific and literary imagining of prehistory, persisting despite surprising findings from genomic science.

In 2010, Swedish geneticist Svante Pääbo, founding father of paleogenomics and winner of the 2022 Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine, reconstructed genomes from three fossil Neanderthals and found evidence of “introgression,” the movement of genetic material between species—that is, sexual relations. Most of us, at least, are a little bit Neanderthal, sharing a modest genetic heritage with our long-extinct cousins. Novels, films, and documentaries have since registered the molecular evidence, as has the business of personal genomics, reshaping but never quite abandoning the gendered stories of “conquest” and “replacement.” The most recent genomic studies further complicate the picture, providing new materials for the stories we tell about Neanderthals—and about ourselves.

Changing Narratives: From “Replacement” to Hybridity

The conquest narrative, the original “Great Replacement” in which Homo sapiens exterminated the natives, was constructed without fossil or archaeological evidence: there are no mass graves, no blood-stained fossils, no physical evidence supporting the prehistoric fantasy. The myth took shape a half century after the first named Neanderthal fossils emerged in 1856, after the early debates about human antiquity and human participation in the evolutionary struggles of natural selection, which followed the publication of Darwin’s On the Origin of Species in 1859. Why did it take so long to form? Early evolutionary theorists were committed to a unilinear, progressive model, in which Neanderthals were not a separate human species but the brutish, violent ancestors of the human lineage. Irish geologist William King’s 1864 naming of Neanderthals as a distinct species, Homo neanderthalensis, was quickly forgotten for almost four decades. The apish, uncultured but ancestral identity of Neanderthals crystallized after the discovery of the first “Cro-Magnon” skulls in 1868, named for the French site where they were accidentally uncovered, promising an early “race” that resembled our own, artistic and creative selves. Neanderthals were born the ugly, lesser doppelganger of Homo sapiens, even though they were, at first, considered our ancestors.

A shift in thinking took place in the late 19th century. Supported by new discoveries of Neanderthals at Spy, Belgium, in 1887, and by the far older “Java Man” in 1891 (the type specimen of Homo erectus), anatomists and paleontologists insistently pushed “Neanderthal Man” back to ape-like standing. Then in 1901, the German-Jewish anatomist Gustav Schwalbe excluded Neanderthals from the Homo sapiens lineage, reviving King’s taxonomy, which this time became widely accepted. Their new status came bundled with an evolutionary model borrowed from empire: “replacement” was a euphemism for the metaphor of a “race war.” A Neanderthal skeleton found in the Dordogne in 1908 moved French paleontologist Marcellin Boule to produce an exhaustive account of “the Old Man of La Chapelle-aux-Saints,” which, along with František Kupka’s widely reproduced, caricatured drawing, sealed Neanderthals’ fate as hairy, shuffling, apish brutes. Boule’s monograph a few years later advanced a new “paleontological law” in which Homo sapiens and Neanderthals were distinct species on separate branches of the evolutionary tree, one vigorous and fruiting, the other a desiccated twig that did not simply drop off on its own.

For decades, evolutionary theory remained deeply embedded in an imperial and racial grammar, its essential narratives drawing its framework from the colonial conquest of an “inferior” (Neanderthal) species by a “superior” (Cro-Magnon) species, a framework given moral buoyancy in the rising tide of eugenicist thought. British paleoanthropologist and racial theorist Arthur Keith wrote in 1915 that “a more virile form” extinguished Neanderthals, and he compared the Cro-Magnon “conquest” of Europe to the European subjugation and colonization of the Americas.

Across the Atlantic, at the American Museum of Natural History in New York, Henry Fairfield Osborn added a eugenicist script through his writings and oversight of Charles Knight’s 1920 murals. In Chicago, the Field Museum employed Frederick Blaschke to stage a diorama, reproduced for decades in postcards and textbooks, that affirmed the lesser racial standing of our bent-kneed, dark-skinned cousins. Meanwhile, commercial fiction enriched the narrative of the white man’s conquest of his darker inferiors, as in the genocidal fable of a “species war” rehearsed in H.G. Wells’s “The Grisly Folk” (1921). The conquest was gendered: some anthropologists conceded a limited, forceful interbreeding between Homo sapiens men and Neanderthal women; others, following eugenicist guidelines, insisted that super Homo sapiensmen had killed off the women with no interbreeding at all.

The conquest fable continued after World War II, although it lost much of its purchase in both science and literature. For one, the older, typological racial science faded, partially dismantled by the UNESCO Statements on Race (1950–1951) and the contemporaneous Cold Spring Harbor Symposium on human evolution. At the same time, as eugenicist thought waned, the “modern synthesis” in evolutionary theory, grounded in population genetics, argued for hybridity and genetic exchange, supported in part by the morphologically varied Mount Carmel fossils uncovered in the 1930s. Further, during the postwar decades, many paleoanthropologists returned Neanderthals to direct ancestral status, a “Neanderthal phase of man.” All this fed their popular scientific rehabilitation, as the Neanderthal mirror began to reflect a white, empathetic, and compassionate, even if still lesser double.

Ralph Solecki’s work on the Shanidar Neanderthals in Kurdistan, Iraq, showed how they cared for disabled people and ostensibly buried their dead with flowers. Meanwhile, William Golding’s The Inheritors (1955) reversed the colonial script, narrating the conquest from the native’s point of view, and turning beastly, uncultured Neanderthals into virtuous moral innocents—although, as he himself admitted, he did so without consulting the science of his day. The old caricature, the grunting, violent brute exterminated by a superior race, continued in cartoons and in movies, as seen famously in the horror film The Neanderthal Man (1953). It even resurfaced in Jean Auel’s blockbuster novel The Clan of the Cave Bear (1980), despite her efforts to incorporate claims made by Solecki and other advocates for Neanderthals’ humanity. But within much of the scientific establishment, the violent, gendered myth of replacement had lost much of its force.

Finnish-Swedish paleontologist turned novelist Björn Kurtén’s Dance of the Tiger (1978), perhaps the most scientifically rigorous prehistoric novel ever written, offered an alternative model—one that came close to recent findings in genomic research—in which attraction replaced the fabled violence. His Neanderthals are fair-skinned, boreal inhabitants, intelligent and cultured, who speak in polite, ritualized exchange that belies—indeed, compensates for—their overtly fierce appearance. Neanderthal women are drawn to the neotenic, juvenile features of the invading Cro-Magnon tribes, dark-skinned, technologically advanced immigrants from Africa, but not conquerors. Instead, the two peoples interbreed, though their unions are infertile. It was a major literary revision of the conquest theory, with the narrative encounter structured by desire rather than violence, and a prescient anticipation of later genomic research.

Kurtén’s novel Dance of the Tiger, and its successor Singletusk, anticipated and contributed to a new evolutionary claim about human recency that had been building since the war. In the 1980s, the “Out of Africa” hypothesis argued that Homo sapiens were of relatively recent origins, emerging in Africa only 200,000 years ago before spreading around the world. Although the thesis found initial support in the fossil record, new genomic science soon gave it force. In 1987, a study of mitochondrial DNA among individuals from contemporary populations led researchers to hypothesize a single African origin for all modern humans—which the press quickly dubbed “mitochondrial Eve”—with no detectable contribution from Neanderthals. This thesis gained further support from new dating techniques showing that “anatomically modern humans” preceded Neanderthals in the Levant.

Neanderthals, meanwhile, suffered from the wide acceptance of the “Human Revolution” thesis: the sudden invention of symbolic behavior, creativity, and imagination that marked the passage from the Middle to Upper Paleolithic—and from Neanderthals to Homo sapiens. The result was a blow to the “Neanderthal phase” hypothesis, and to Neanderthals themselves, as they were returned to subhuman status in the 1980s and 1990s, the uncultured, conquered victims of an invading, superior people.

Dormant for more than a generation, the race war metaphor and the “replacement” thesis came roaring back to life. Paleoanthropologist Milford Wolpoff, the premier advocate of the Multiregional Origins hypothesis, denounced the Out of Africa story as “a scientific rendering of the story of Cain” and, more bluntly, a “Pleistocene holocaust.” Hitler himself, Wolpoff argued, hadn’t achieved what his colleague Alan Templeton called the “total genetic extinction” implied by the Out of Africa model—although Chris Stringer at the Natural History Museum, London, the tireless public spokesman for African origins, was far more tempered in his claims. But the press seized on the trope of genocide, and shaped by debates during the Columbus quincentennial, the imperial-colonial model—and with it, the idea of Neanderthals as an inferior race—returned with a vengeance. Neanderthals, who had been growing paler since the late 1930s, became definitively coded as white-skinned Europeans, while Homo sapiens were Black Africans. The racial script was flipped, but the older conquest narrative, and the bestial, even monstrous image of Neanderthals, was unexpectedly revived, including in Doris Lessing’s The Fifth Child (1988).

Pääbo and his team at the Max Planck Institute for Evolutionary Anthropology in Leipzig, Germany, published their draftNeanderthal genome in 2010, showing that they were not our direct ancestors, but were kindred. The 2010 breakthrough reversed the mitochondrial Eve findings of the 1980s that showed an absence of Neanderthal DNA in modern humans. The team announced that modern humans outside Africa carry 1–4 percent Neanderthal DNA, the result of Paleolithic sexual encounters. Much has been made about how the news transformed Neanderthals’ standing and identity, turning them white while elevating their cultural capacities and, indeed, their very humanity. Yet by 2010, the tide had already turned: long before their reputational surge with the 2010 paleogenomic news, and buttressed by continuous headlines of archaeological evidence touting their capacities as cultural beings, Neanderthals had become Caucasian, cultured, and compassionate.

Once again, the conquest narrative faded but did not disappear entirely. In popular science writing, it continued in force, the violent encounter now tempered by the insistence that cognitive superiority, not violence alone, explained why we triumphed and they went extinct: we simply had outsmarted them. As the “Cognitive Revolution” thesis trickled down from the academic laboratories of evolutionary psychology to international blockbuster bestsellers, including Yuval Noah Harari’s Sapiens, the replacement narrative softened but never dissipated. Despite growing archaeological evidence that they were hardly knuckle-dragging, brutish ape-men—and the hand-wringing apologies for how wrong we used to be—paleoanthropologists and molecular anthropologists continued to argue that they somehow lacked a genetically grounded “human spark” that made us uniquely superior.

Then genomic science entered the picture, the last stronghold of the Sapiens Superiority Complex. The “big science” of ancient genomics should not be confused with the commercial pseudoscience of “Neanderthal Ancestry Reports” from at-home testing kits, most famously 23andMe, before its 2025 bankruptcy. Beginning in 2010, 23andMe’s pioneering saliva-based test returned a report based on single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs), genetic variants at single positions in the genome. Some 1,400 curated variants (from more than 4 billion) were matched to the Neanderthal genome and statistically correlated with self-reported traits of other consumers. This linking declared behavioral characteristics and preferences to Neanderthal “ancestry,” from night sweats and fear of public speaking to having poor sense of direction and sneezing after eating dark chocolate. None of these “Neanderthal” traits were particularly negative or consequential. The company’s former scientific publicist spoke about the effort as a “love letter to Neanderthals,” trying to correct their historical reputation as boorish, ape-like creatures and to promote their humanity and identity, just like us. But when millions of users bragged about their percentages on social media, in chatrooms, and elsewhere, the older stereotypes resurfaced, as did the racial matrix of Neanderthal identity. It was mostly a competitive joke about being “Neanderthal,” playing into ancient tropes of boorish, sexist behavior and lesser intelligence. Some white nationalists seized on their higher percentages within a Paleolithic identity politics.

Genomic science itself is hardly immune from racial categorization. As well documented, race has resurfaced in the genomic age, and genes have become markers of racial and ethnic belonging. The traditional, Christian theological geography of the three “races,” founded on the Biblical story of Noah’s three sons, continues to inform scientific and popular claims about differences among us. Later studies that identified Neanderthal genetic material through shared ancestry and back migration revised the initial claim that only non-Africans carried molecular traces of Neanderthal ancestry.

Yet Neanderthals’ persistent identity remains white and European, despite evidence of their fossil traces as far as Siberia and geneticists’ findings that before the Neolithic, we were all dark-skinned, albeit different hues. In fact, many Asian populations share a larger percentage of their genome with Neanderthals than Europeans do, since the real lesson of paleogenomics is that, from the perspective of deep history, we are all mongrels, and that the lineages from which we directly descend are far more recent.

In the aftermath of Pääbo’s draft sequence of the Neanderthal genome in 2010, followed by a high-quality sequence released in 2013, nearly a dozen major labs in the United States and Europe began the project of mapping genetic structures, timelines, admixture events, and distributions of specific Neanderthal DNA nucleotide sequence variations and genes (alleles) across contemporary populations. Hundreds, soon thousands, of scientific studies model the frequency, magnitude, and consequences of “introgression”—the interbreeding of late Neanderthal populations and arriving Homo sapiens, and their long settlement into a population—using both ancient and present-day samples. Some holdouts, including physical anthropologist Jeffrey H. Schwartz, dispute that molecular similarity can demonstrate interbreeding at all, and believe that the morphological evidence of the fossil record cannot sustain the claim.

Still, the near consensus is that most Neanderthal ancestry found in present-day genomes results from an “episode” of hybridization lasting some 7,000 years, from about 50,500 to 43,500 BP. The genomic data also reveal tremendous geographic and temporal variation, and the evolutionary consequences are far from clear. And of course, molecules can’t disclose whether the supposed encounters were violent or peaceful, acts of rape or love. In this sense, ancient genomics has reflected new light on the Neanderthal mirror, built originally from stones and bones, adding a little transparency. As paleogenomics has pushed the scientific narrative from “replacement” toward some version of hybridity, much of science reporting and popular fiction retain a softer version of the traditional thesis and its underlying claims of Sapiens superiority. The Neanderthal mirror has cracked, but it’s far from broken.

We have moved, or been moved, to consider Neanderthals our Kindred, as the British archaeologist and popular science writer Rebecca Wragg Sykes titled her 2020 bestselling book. Yet for Sykes and others, our “kinship,” while grounded in evidence of an ancient sexual alliance, is mostly a simile: they are “like us” in their symbolic and emotional capacities, including the (still contested) claim about their ability to make art. But the most recent genomic evidence not only offers a further revision of the conquest myth but also allows us to take the metaphor of kinship more literally.

The Mystery of the X Chromosome

The February 2026 Science study by Alexander Platt, Daniel H. Harris, and Sarah A. Tishkoff began with a puzzle that had troubled researchers for a decade. When geneticists mapped the Neanderthal portions of modern human genomes, they found a gap: the modern human X chromosome contained only a fifth as much Neanderthal DNA as the autosomes or non-sex chromosomes; long stretches of it were entirely devoid of Neanderthal contribution, a “Neanderthal desert.”

The standard explanation invoked Haldane’s rule, formulated in 1922: hybrid fertility problems in mammals appear first in males, whose single X can’t buffer a harmful variant the way a second X does in females. On this reading, the “desert” was the scar of an incipient speciation, selection purging Neanderthal variants from our X as hybrid males lost fertility. Some geneticists took this as evidence that Neanderthals were a separate species under the “biological species concept,” which reserved “good species” for those that couldn’t interbreed, implicitly reviving the old thesis of replacement. Others were skeptical, like John Hawks, the University of Wisconsin paleoanthropologist and self-described “Haldane holdout.” Widespread interbreeding over tens of thousands of years sat awkwardly with a barrier severe enough to empty the X of Neanderthal traces. He preferred a rival explanation: strong selection on new X-chromosome mutations during the dispersal out of Africa, documented in 2020 in Icelandic genomes, could have swept ancestral variation off the X—collateral damage of our own reproductive momentum.

Platt and his team flipped the question: rather than ask why Neanderthal DNA is scarce on the human X, they looked at the Neanderthal X. No Neanderthal genome postdates the principal episode of interbreeding, beginning 50,000 years ago, so they undertook a “natural experiment” on the Altai Neanderthal, a female more than 120,000 years old whose genome registered a much earlier introgression roughly 250,000 years ago that had left modern human ancestry in the Neanderthal line. There the surplus ran the other way. Modern human DNA on the Neanderthal X was 62 percent above the autosomes, a direction that neither the faster-X effect nor an excess Neanderthal mutational load could produce. The most parsimonious explanation was a sex bias in mating, with male Neanderthals the predominant partners of Homo sapiensfemales rather than the reverse. That the same bias held at the later encounter, some 200,000 years on, is a premise of the analysis rather than a result of it. The assumption rests on the observation it was introduced to explain: the depletion of Neanderthal ancestry on the modern human X, which the same preference would produce.

The press seized on the finding that “Neanderthal men were the Romeos of the prehistoric world” or repeated headlines that “Human Women Preferred Neanderthal Men,” in science journalism and social media, as “preference” slid from structural explanation to personal desire. The study itself is agnostic about whose preference it was: either a general preference for males with Neanderthal ancestry or a general preference for females with modern human ancestry would account for everything the authors observed. The coverage chose the version that handed the desire to Homo sapienswomen. The old myths returned, with a twist. Steven Churchill, a Duke paleoanthropologist uninvolved in the study, called it evidence of aggression, males monopolizing females from another group being “hard to reconcile… with anything but a competitive, unfriendly interaction.” The traditional fable cast Homo sapiens males as aggressors and Neanderthal females as victims; the new version reverses the gender assignment while keeping the structure of predation.

What the reporting missed is a structural principle beyond individual attraction or coercion. The study cannot assign the preference to either party, and what outlasts everyone who might have held it is not a preference but a rule. Rules governing who may marry whom, in which direction, and between which groups are the subject matter of classical kinship theory, not a metaphor imported to gloss a biological fact. If Neanderthals were, as a generation of archaeologists and anthropologists have argued, culture-bearing subjects like early Homo sapiens, then the encounter did not simply befall them; it was something they helped arrange.

In The Elementary Structures of Kinship (1949), French anthropologist Claude Lévi-Strauss argued that the exchange of women between groups is the foundational act of human alliance, the moment nature becomes culture. Within a system of reciprocal exchange and obligation, “wife-givers” hold a structurally superordinate position, while “wife-takers” hold a subordinate one. Endless ethnographic examples illuminate the pattern. Edmund Leach showed in Political Systems of Highland Burma (1954) how tribute flows upward toward the wife-givers. If the Paleolithic encounter is read as cultural rather than purely biological exchange, the directionality points to Homo sapiens as wife-givers and Neanderthals as wife-takers, the supplicant party in a recurrent, asymmetric alliance whose traces survived in chromosomes for a quarter of a million years.

It’s worth pausing on the kind of hierarchy implied in a kinship model: if the wife-giver remains the superior position, one could mistake the reading for old wine in a new bottle. But conquest alone demands nothing of the victor, while kinship obligates the wife-giver too. The imperial narrative makes Neanderthals the losers of a war; the kinship reading makes them participants in an exchange, subordinate but within a social order, rather than simple victims of a “more virile” people.

Of course, we cannot reconstruct Paleolithic social relations from a chromosome, but kinship offers an explanation beyond violence and predation. Hawks reached for something similar, citing matrilineal dispersal networks not unlike the Austronesian expansion into Oceania. French prehistorian Ludovic Slimak arrived at Lévi-Strauss from the same asymmetry in The Naked Neanderthal (2023). But he read the one-way flow as non-reciprocal exchange, “I take your sister, but I won’t give you mine,” and hinted—with reference to signs of possible cannibalism of non-local Neanderthal women at Goyet Cave, Belgium—at seizure rather than alliance.

But the opposition may be false. It was an axiom of an older structural anthropology that exchanges are wars peacefully resolved, and that wars are the residue of failed transactions. Alliance and seizure are not two accounts of the encounter but two ways of satisfying the same rule, and it is the rule, not the manner of its satisfaction, that the chromosomes preserve. Whether the women went as wives or as captives, the molecules cannot say.

A New Story about Kinship

The conquest narrative has been challenged over the last century but keeps returning to haunt our self-understanding of the prehistoric encounter. The original imperial model of a race war yielded to the postwar “Neanderthal phase,” but the Out of Africa theory in the 1980s and after—supported by the Human and Cognitive Revolution hypothesis—helped revive it. Pääbo’s 2010 proof of interbreeding brought sexual encounters to the forefront but didn’t destroy the idea of conquest and replacement. Now the X-chromosome finding suggests that the old fable got it wrong, even if its most imaginative rewritings reversed the gender of desire. Kurtén envisaged a revised, if traditional, picture: Neanderthal women drawn to Cro-Magnon men, with a resulting infertility. The latest genomic findings suggest the reverse, and with a more fruitful outcome.

These findings allow us to go beyond a claim about our metaphorical kinship with Neanderthals to a hypothesis founded on kinship theory, one that reshapes the Neanderthal mirror more fundamentally. The kinship alliance hypothesis runs against the grain of media reception of genomic breakthroughs, and against the persistent appeal of the longstanding conquest fable. Among molecular and paleoanthropologists, and increasingly in the popular press, a consensus is forming that Neanderthals didn’t go extinct like the dodo, hunted by colonizers and their companion species. They were absorbed and dissolved slowly, within an asymmetric cultural order, I argue, by patterns of interbreeding we can barely glimpse in ancient genomes. Their genetic variants survived; their distinctiveness did not, a position Svante Pääbo himself has endorsed. Yet recent versions of this “absorption” theory, including a 2022 study by Chris Stringer and Lucile Crété, reach for chimpanzee raids and capture of females, keeping the gendered conquest fable alive inside its own replacement.

The old fable has always said more about its tellers and origins than its subjects, reflecting our own racial hierarchies and imperial triumphs; the new paleogenomics holds a mirror up to our own anxieties about hybridity and identity. But what it shows is a boundary crossed repeatedly, in a direction we never imagined, and identities that are the residue of an organized entanglement, of kinship, not conquest. The old version is still the easier story to tell. The question is whether we can resist it long enough to allow the new one to take shape.

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This article was produced by Human Bridges, a project of the Independent Media Institute.

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POPULAR ARCHAEOLOGY ON INSTAGRAM

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When a Stone Leaves More Questions Than Answers: Field Notes on Identifying Lithic Materials

Anyone who has walked a survey transect, sifted a screen, or paused beside a coastal midden knows the feeling: a cobble or flake catches the light and seems to announce itself—chert, basalt, quartzite—before certainty dissolves. Was this piece brought from inland, collected from the beach below the site, or left by a later visitor? In archaeology, that hesitation is productive. Lithic raw materials sit at the intersection of geology, technology, and human choice, and careful looking at stone helps us read the past without overclaiming what one specimen can prove.

Why raw material still matters on site

Flaked and ground stone tools are among the most durable traces of human activity. Unlike organics, they survive where other evidence vanishes. But durability does not equal self-explanation. The same glassy fracture that made a material attractive for blades can appear in several geological families; heat treatment, patina, and residual cortex can all shift how a piece looks under field light. Provenance studies—sourcing obsidian to a flow, matching chert to a formation—rely on petrography, geochemistry, and comparative collections. What the trench or beach walk offers first is more modest: a disciplined description of color, texture, inclusions, and fracture, and a clear line between observation and inference.

That discipline matters beyond typology. Exchange networks, mobility, and craft specialization are often argued from raw-material patterns. If “exotic” stone is misidentified as local beach cobble—or the reverse—those arguments weaken. Readings of ritual deposits, caches, and unfinished blanks likewise depend on knowing whether a stone was chosen for workability, color, or origin. None of that starts with a label; it starts with looking.

Beach finds, garden stones, and the informal record

Not every stone that raises a question sits in a labeled bag. Walkers near shell middens often pick up water-rolled pieces that resemble debitage. Gardeners turn up “arrowheads” that may be natural fractures, folk reproductions, or genuine surface finds with no context. Museums receive trays of such objects with sincere questions and almost no provenience. The ethical response is not to invent a culture or a date from a photograph alone. It is to describe the object, compare it to known lithologies from the region, and say plainly when the evidence stops.

Context remains king. A biface without findspot cannot support a settlement model. Still, comparative identification of the rock itself—igneous versus sedimentary, fine-grained versus coarse, phenocrysts or fossils—narrows the conversation. It helps a landowner decide whether to contact a heritage office.

Looking with method, not with certainty

Field manuals emphasize the same sequence: note the setting; photograph scale and both faces; describe cortex, flake scars, and use-wear separately from the rock type; then compare. Hand lenses and teaching-lab reference collections remain the gold standard for tactile learning. When those resources are far away, digital comparison can support the early descriptive stage, provided its limits are understood.

A free browser-based aid such as Rock Identify lets you identify rocks from a photo by uploading one to three images, optionally with location or notes, and receiving a suggested match with category and explanation for side-by-side comparison. It does not require an app download or an account for basic use, and public use is capped at about three free identifications per day. Critically, a suggested match is not a certified laboratory identification, not a chemical assay, and not proof of archaeological provenance or cultural affiliation. Treat it as a field-notebook prompt: a hypothesis to check against local geology maps, comparative collections, and specialist advice before any stronger claim is made.

From comparison to responsible interpretation

Archaeology’s public face often meets stone first—at open days, in classroom kits, and among surface finds reported by the public. Teaching people to slow down around rock identification protects both science and heritage. Overconfident labels travel farther than careful uncertainty; underconfident silence can leave genuine sites unrecognized. The middle path is comparative literacy: know the common lithologies of your region, know which materials were preferred for tools and ornaments, and know when to ask a curator.

Art history and anthropology add further stakes. Jade, turquoise, and other valued stones move through ritual and prestige economies; misnaming them flattens meaning. Even ordinary cobbles used as hammerstones or temper in ceramics repay close looking. The goal is not to turn every walker into a petrographer. It is to keep description honest, comparison explicit, and cultural conclusions provisional until context and specialist methods catch up.

Stone will keep outlasting us. What we owe it—and the people who shaped it—is patience: look twice, compare once more, and leave room for later analysis to revise the first guess.

Cover Image, Top: Thirty five Prehistoric Fire damaged flints. Bristol City Council, Kurt Adams, 2005-12-02, CC BY-SA 2.0, Wikimedia Commons 

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How Mobile Technology Is Changing Archaeological Documentation

Thorough observation and precise recording have always been the backbone of archaeology. Researchers have developed many ways to document historical material, including detailed site photos and handwritten excavation notes. Today’s mobile technologies make photographing archaeological features, consulting reference materials, and organizing field observations easier.

The Evolution of Archaeological Field Documentation

Notepads, drawings, measurement tools, and photography gear were vital to early archeological missions. Long after fieldwork ended, these records helped academics understand what happened and interpret the findings.

Digital documentation has given archaeologists more flexibility, yet older approaches remain useful.

These days, archaeological sites are documented using digital cameras, specialized recording software, and geographic information systems.

From Paper Records to Digital Archives

With digital records, researchers can now easily link images to excavation details, locations, and supplementary materials.

Assigning a catalog number, photographing the artifact with a scale, and documenting its archaeological environment are all steps in cataloging an excavated pottery piece, for instance.

Because an artifact’s discovery context shapes its historical value, preserving these links is crucial.

Using Mobile Devices at Historical Sites

Smartphones make maps, reference photos, digital notes, and published studies easily accessible.

Portable displays also make it easier to compare existing documentation with observable architectural characteristics, which is useful for archaeologists visiting historical sites.

Reviewing Historical Images in the Field

Historic buildings often undergo repairs, conservation work, and environmental changes. Researchers can spot changes by comparing modern images with older records.

Mobile devices allow researchers to consult these records without carrying extensive printed archives. For researchers reviewing detailed photographs, historical plans, or architectural drawings in the field, an honor big screen phone provides an example of portable foldable display technology.

Still, you can’t tell whether a gadget is fit for professional archaeological recording just by looking at its screen size. Image quality, file compatibility, and project needs are still factors researchers must consider.

Photography and the Preservation of Archaeological Evidence

Because excavations permanently alter the physical arrangement of archaeological deposits, photography remains essential for documenting these sites.

Before beginning excavation, researchers photograph the trenches, buildings, artifacts, and soil layers.

Having these pictures on hand makes analysis and interpretation easier later on.

Why Accurate Image Records Matter

  • Photographs taken during archaeological digs should include accurate scales, directions, and consistent identification records.
  • Without contextual information, a clear image’s scientific utility may be limited.
  • Expert archaeology photography also necessitates care with exposure, lens distortion, color accuracy, and documentation protocols.
  • While smartphone images can support initial findings, official documentation should follow the project’s specified process.

Digital Tools and Public Archaeological Education

Museums and heritage organizations have also adapted how they share historical findings as mobile technologies have advanced.

As they explore ancient sites, visitors may view digital reconstructions, navigate with interactive maps, and read interpretive materials.

Making Historical Information More Accessible

Viewers of digital exhibits can zoom in on intricate architectural elements and artifacts that would be impossible to see in person.

For example, to show the structure of delicate artifacts, three-dimensional models can replace repeated physical handling.

Historical interpretations are most useful when they are clearly separated from information that has been rebuilt or is based on speculation.

Challenges in Digital Heritage Documentation

  • Data protection and accuracy have become more important duties because of digital convenience.
  • To maintain files’ value over time, use consistent naming, create reliable backups, and include sufficient descriptive metadata.
  • Regarding cultural sensitivities, location constraints, and authorization to photograph or publish heritage artifacts, researchers must exercise utmost care.
  • Preserving original records becomes even more crucial when photographs are altered or used in public displays.

Conclusion

In archaeology, public education, and research, mobile technology is a valuable asset. Nevertheless, effective documentation still requires well-established recording techniques, accurate contextual data, and meticulous preservation. Researchers can enhance the long-term value of historical data by integrating digital convenience with professional archaeological standards.

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Cover Image, Top: Esthee2010, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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The History of Coins: From the First Coins to the Last Penny

The history of coins began in Lydia, in what is now western Turkey, in the late seventh century BC, about 2,600 years ago. Before that, people paid with weighed lumps of silver and grain. Since then, coinage has been a long experiment in getting strangers to trust a piece of metal, and most of what we know about it comes out of excavation trenches and lab benches.

The Monterey Company, a coin maker in Bend, Oregon, that has struck custom coins since 1989, has written up the object at the start of the story: the Lydian Lion, often called the oldest coin in the world. This article picks up there and follows coinage forward, from Lydia to the US Mint’s last penny, using the digs and lab studies that date each step.

How Did People Pay Before Coins?

Before coins, people paid in metal by weight. In Mesopotamia the shekel coin started as a unit of weight, roughly 8 grams of silver, and the Code of Hammurabi (c. 1750 BC) sets fines and fees in silver. Across the Near East, archaeologists keep finding hacksilber: chopped rings, bars and scraps of silver cut to make up a payment.

Weighed silver worked, but every deal needed scales and a guess about purity. A coin fixed both problems. Its weight was set in advance, and the stamp told you who stood behind it.

Who Made the First Coins?

The Lydians made the first coins, and the best evidence came out of the ground at Ephesus. In 1904-05, British Museum archaeologists digging beneath the Temple of Artemis recovered 93 electrum coins left as offerings in the late seventh century BC, according to the Sardis Expedition. Nine were blank “proto-coins,” lumps of fixed weight with only a punch mark. Most of the rest showed the head of a lion.

Six of the Ephesus lion coins carry the Lydian inscription WALWET. Many scholars read it as the name of King Alyattes, which ties the coinage to the royal house at Sardis, the Lydian capital on the electrum-bearing Pactolus River.

The Ephesus coins also killed an old assumption: that early coins were only for big payments. Half of them weigh less than 1.2 grams. The smallest Lydian fraction, a 1/96 stater stamped with a lion’s paw, weighs 0.15 grams and measures 4 millimeters across.

Lydian electrum came with a catch. Natural electrum varies in its mix of gold and silver, and lab analysis shows the lion coins were debased to about 54% gold, 44% silver and 1-2% copper. The Lydian state ran the mint, set the face value and kept the difference.

What Were the First Gold Coins?

The first pure gold coins were issued by Croesus, the last king of Lydia, who ruled from about 560 to 546 BC. His mint at Sardis dropped electrum and struck separate coins in refined gold and refined silver. Greeks called them Croeseids, after the king.

Croesus’s split is where the history of gold coins starts. A pure-metal coin could be judged by weight alone, and a fixed ratio between the gold and silver pieces created the first bimetallic system. Herodotus, writing about a century later, credited the Lydians as the first people to mint gold and silver coin (Histories 1.94).

Cyrus of Persia took Sardis in 546 BC, but the Croeseids outlived their king. The Persians kept striking them, then replaced them around 500 BC with the gold daric and the silver siglos.

How Did Coinage Spread to Greece, India and China?

Coinage spread across the Greek world within a few decades of Lydia. Aegina’s silver “turtles” circulated widely in the sixth century BC. Athens followed with the owl tetradrachm, struck from Laurion silver, which became the trade coin of the fifth-century Aegean.

India came to coinage on its own. Punch-marked silver coins, stamped with several small symbols instead of a single design, appear in the Gangetic plain somewhere between the sixth and fourth centuries BC. The start date is still argued, and most scholars treat the Indian tradition as independent.

China took a different route again. Zhou-era states cast bronze money shaped like tools: spades and knives. After the Qin dynasty unified China in 221 BC, the round bronze ban liang with a square hole became the single standard, according to the American Numismatic Association. Chinese coins kept that shape into the early twentieth century, roughly 2,000 years.

When Was the Roman Denarius Introduced?

Rome introduced the silver denarius around 211 BC, in the middle of the Second Punic War against Hannibal. Rome came to coinage late compared with the Greeks, and it got its defining coin in wartime.

The silver in the denarius explains the timing. In a 2016 study in Geochemical Perspectives Letters, Francis Albarède and colleagues measured silver and lead isotopes in 26 Roman coins struck before and after the 211 BC reform. Pre-reform silver matched Spanish ore that Carthage had paid Rome as a war indemnity. Post-reform silver had a different signature, most likely plunder from Syracuse and Capua.

Albarède’s team concludes the reform was built to absorb a flood of war booty rather than to survive a shortage. Rome cut coin weights so the new silver would not set off inflation. Few ancient budgets can be read straight off the coins. This one can.

Roman coins went on to carry emperors’ portraits and slogans across the empire for centuries. That made them propaganda as much as payment, and it makes Roman coins one of archaeology’s most useful dating tools today.

When Did Coins Start Being Made by Machine?

Coins were made by hand for about 2,000 years. A worker set a metal blank between two engraved dies and struck it with a hammer, the same basic method the Lydians used. Hammered coins are rarely round, and their thin, uneven edges invited clipping: shaving slivers of precious metal off a coin before spending it.

Machine minting started in Paris, where the mint began using a mill and screw press in the 1550s. England’s Royal Mint began machine production in February 1662, starting with gold, according to the Royal Mint Museum. Machine-struck coins came out round, with milled edges that made clipping obvious at a glance. The English guinea, first struck in 1663, came off the new presses.

Steam reached the mint in 1788, at Matthew Boulton’s Soho Mint near Birmingham. The Soho Mint’s 1797 “cartwheel” penny showed how fast a mint could now turn out identical coins. Across the Atlantic, the Coinage Act of 1792 had already created the United States Mint in Philadelphia.

What Is the Most Valuable Coin in the World?

The most valuable coin in the world is a 1933 Saint-Gaudens Double Eagle, a $20 gold piece that sold at Sotheby’s in June 2021 for $18.9 million, a world auction record. The US pulled gold coins from circulation in 1933, and the Double Eagles struck that year were ordered melted before release. A handful escaped. The 2021 coin is the only 1933 Double Eagle known to be legal to own privately, per Smithsonian.

Coinage is still changing. On November 12, 2025, the US Mint in Philadelphia struck its final circulating one-cent coin, ending 232 years of penny production. Philadelphia also struck the country’s first circulating coins, in 1793.

History of Coins Timeline

Date Milestone
c. 1750 BC The Code of Hammurabi sets fines and fees in weighed silver
Late 7th c. BC First coins: Lydian electrum, later deposited at the Temple of Artemis, Ephesus
c. 560-546 BC Croesus issues the first pure gold and silver coins
6th-5th c. BC Greek city coinages spread; Athenian owls dominate Aegean trade
c. 6th-4th c. BC Punch-marked silver coins appear in India
221 BC The Qin standardize China’s round, square-holed bronze coin
c. 211 BC Rome introduces the silver denarius
1550s The Paris mint adopts the mill and screw press
1662 England’s Royal Mint begins machine-struck coinage
1788 Boulton’s Soho Mint strikes coins with steam power
1792 The US Coinage Act creates the United States Mint
1933 US Double Eagle gold coins ordered melted
2021 A 1933 Double Eagle sells for $18.9 million
2025 The US Mint strikes its last circulating penny

 

Read down the timeline and the constant is the stamp: a mark from someone who answers for the metal. WALWET on a Lydian lion and the date on a modern quarter do the same job. The method outlived circulation too. Commemorative medals and custom-struck coins are still made the way the Lydians made theirs, by pressing an engraved die into metal.

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Sources

Sardis Expedition (Harvard Art Museums / Cornell), “The Coins of Sardis”. https://sardisexpedition.org/en/essays/latw-kroll-coins-of-sardis

Albarède, F., Blichert-Toft, J., Rivoal, M. and Telouk, P. (2016), “A glimpse into the Roman finances of the Second Punic War through silver isotopes,” Geochemical Perspectives Letters 2. https://www.geochemicalperspectivesletters.org/article1613/

American Numismatic Association, “Chinese Coinage” (Money Museum virtual exhibit). https://www.money.org/money-museum/virtual-exhibits-hom-case5/

The Royal Mint Museum, “Charles II”. https://www.royalmintmuseum.org.uk/journal/british-monarchs/charles-ii/

Reuters, “Double Eagle gold coin sells for record-setting $18.9 million” (June 8, 2021). https://www.reuters.com/world/us/double-eagle-coin-sells-record-setting-195-million-2021-06-08/

Smithsonian Magazine, “The World’s Most Valuable Coin Sells at Auction for $18.9 Million”. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/1933-double-eagle-sells-189-million-sets-world-record-most-valuable-coin-180977965/

United States Mint, final circulating one-cent coin press release (November 12, 2025). https://www.usmint.gov/news/press-releases/united-states-mint-hosts-historic-ceremonial-strike-for-final-production-of-the-circulating-one-cent-coin

The Monterey Company, “The Oldest Coin in the World”. https://montereycompany.com/blog/the-oldest-coin-in-the-world/

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Cover Image, Top: KINGS of PONTOS. Mithradates VI Eupator. Circa 120-63 BC. AV Stater (20mm, 8.21 g, 12h). First Mithradatic War issue.  LouisAragon, CC BY-SA 2.5, Wikimedia Commons

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Beyond Pompeii: Exploring the Ancient World of Campania

At Pompeii, a street corner can be as absorbing as a famous fresco. A shop opens onto the pavement; a doorway leads into a house; the road continues towards a public square. Even without a roof overhead or a crowd in the street, the relationship between these spaces is often easy to follow. People lived here, sold things to their neighbours and walked to the same places every day. That sense of familiarity is a good reason to visit Pompeii. It is also a reason to look further across Campania. Herculaneum preserves materials that rarely survive in ancient towns. Paestum takes the story back to Greek settlement in southern Italy. In Naples, objects removed from the excavations restore some of the colour and detail missing from the buildings. Each visit changes what you notice at the next.

Pompeii, beyond the eruption

The eruption of Vesuvius in AD 79 dominates Pompeii’s reputation. Yet a visit becomes much more interesting when the question shifts from how the city ended to how it worked. Begin in the Forum. Religious buildings, commercial premises and spaces for public business gathered around this square. Their proximity matters: activities that a modern visitor might separate into worship, shopping and politics belonged to the same urban centre. One of the most revealing buildings bears the name of Eumachia, a priestess of Venus. An inscription records her role in funding it in her own name and that of her son. The building’s precise function remains debated, but its prominent position and dedication give a named woman a visible place in the city’s public life. The statue of Eumachia found there is now in Naples’ archaeological museum.

Away from the Forum, follow the connections between houses and streets. Where was the entrance? What could someone passing outside see? How close were commercial spaces to domestic rooms? These questions give even an unremarkable stretch of pavement something to say. It helps to choose a few buildings and examine them properly. Trying to reach every famous house can leave little time to understand any of them.

What survives at Herculaneum

Herculaneum rewards close attention to materials. The volcanic flows that engulfed the town carbonised wooden objects and architectural elements, preserving evidence that normally disappears as wood decays. Excavations have recovered doors, stairs, partitions and furniture, as well as food remains, textiles and ropes. These finds allow archaeologists to ask unusually detailed questions about the construction and furnishing of Roman homes. A wooden partition tells us something that a stone wall cannot: how residents could divide an interior without rebuilding it. The survival was uneven. Much of the wood is carbonised, while exceptional finds include parts of a wooden ceiling retaining traces of colour and gilding. Such material requires painstaking conservation; its presence today should not be mistaken for an untouched house simply waiting to be entered. Herculaneum also preserves evidence of people through writing. Wax tablets, inscriptions and graffiti record aspects of legal, commercial and social life. Alongside the buildings and household objects, they help replace anonymous inhabitants with individuals whose names and affairs can sometimes be recovered. Give Herculaneum its own place in the journey. Treating it as a quick second stop after Pompeii risks overlooking the very details that make it worth visiting.

Paestum and the Greek cities of southern Italy

South of Salerno, Paestum widens the historical frame. Founded by Greek settlers as Poseidonia, the city subsequently passed through Lucanian and Roman phases. Its three great Doric temples survive within a much larger urban site. The columns are the obvious attraction, but the spaces between the monuments deserve attention too. Sanctuaries occupied the northern and southern parts of the city. Political and economic activities took place between them, while residential areas completed the urban plan. Walking through Paestum means moving through these different uses of space. The temples also provide a useful lesson in how archaeological interpretations change. The building traditionally called the Basilica was a temple associated with Hera, not the civic structure imagined by eighteenth-century scholars. The name Temple of Neptune is likewise conventional: its original dedication remains uncertain. The temple in the northern sanctuary is associated with Athena. Those distinctions make the visit more interesting than a sequence of architectural labels. They show how names can persist long after the explanations behind them have been revised. Beyond the sanctuaries, look for the Roman Forum and the residential remains. They help explain how later inhabitants adapted an existing city. Paestum’s history continued long after its most photographed temples were built.

Why the journey belongs in Naples too

The National Archaeological Museum of Naples, usually known as MANN, holds objects that once formed part of the places encountered on these visits. Seeing the excavations and the collections together helps reconnect a room with its decoration, or a public building with the person commemorated inside it. 

The Alexander Mosaic is a particularly striking example. It came from Pompeii’s House of the Faun and depicts Alexander the Great confronting Darius III of Persia. Its original setting was a grand reception space in a private house. Remembering that setting changes the question from how the mosaic was made to what its owner wanted visitors to see. Other mosaics depict fish, theatrical masks or birds drinking from a bowl. Their subjects bring the discussion back from rulers and battles to the choices people made about their surroundings. Rather than attempt every collection, follow a connection that interests you: decoration from Pompeian houses, for example, or the objects associated with a building you have already visited. Check the museum’s current room openings if a particular work is central to your plans.

Planning a trip with time to look

Pompeii, Herculaneum and the Naples museum make a coherent group, while Paestum deserves a separate day rather than a hurried addition. For the wider journey, DolceRoutes’ Campania guide brings together the region’s destinations, archaeological visits and suggested itineraries. Leave room between visits. After a morning among streets and houses, another extensive site can become a blur of walls. A museum visit on a different day gives the objects time to register; returning to the excavations afterwards may reveal details you previously passed without noticing. Carry the same question from place to place. Who paid for this building? How was this room used? Why did this object survive? Eumachia’s dedication, a wooden partition at Herculaneum and the changing names of Paestum’s temples offer very different answers. Together, they give a trip through Campania something more lasting than a list of monuments visited.

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Invisible eland identified from 60,000-year-old ochre-rich sediment

Kyushu University, Fukuoka, Japan—Publishing in the journal Proceedings of the Royal Society B a research team from Kyushu University, Universitetet i Bergen, and the University of Copenhagen reports that they found traces of ancient collagen protein from the common eland, Taurotragus oryx, on a 60,000-year-old ochre-rich surface in the Kilpdrift Complex, a Middle and Later Stone Age archeological site located within the coastal cliffs of the De Hoop Nature Reserve in South Africa.

To better understand how ochre was used by early humans, the team used palaeoproteomics, the high-throughput analyses of ancient proteins, to search for potential proteinaceous traces within this archaeological feature. The study identified collagen from elands in the ochre surface, suggesting that either animal-derived materials were deliberately mixed with the ochre or ochre-treated eland hides were present at the site.

These findings provide new evidence for the complex technical and possibly symbolic behaviors of early Homo sapiens.

The most significant finding is the identification of type I collagen proteins from the common eland, which provides biomolecular evidence that animal-derived materials were associated with ochre use during the Middle Stone Age. Until now, evidence of organic components mixed with ochre has been extremely rare, especially in Africa. This discovery offers a new way to investigate how early humans used ochre and other organic materials in their daily, technical, and potentially symbolic activities.

The team analyzed archived sediment samples taken from the Kilpdrif Complex using palaeoproteomics, a growing field of archaeology and paleontology that examines ancient proteins preserved in materials collected at archeological sites. The proteins were extracted from the sediments and analyzed using liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). The resulting protein fragments were then compared to large protein databases and a custom collagen reference database to identify their species of origin.

These findings demonstrate that palaeoproteomics can successfully recover and identify ancient proteins from archaeological sediments, even in challenging African environments where ancient DNA rarely survives. This creates a powerful new tool for archaeologists studying early human behavior, allowing them to investigate biological materials no longer visible in the archaeological record.

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A photo of the Kilpdrift Complex located within the coastal cliffs in the De Hoop Nature Reserve in South Africa where the samples for the study were collected. Credit Ole F. Unhammer/Universitetet i Bergen

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First author Zahra Haghighi pictured preparing a sample in a clean laboratory for palaeoproteomic analysis. Credit Takumi Tsutaya/Kyushu University

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An eland is a large plains antelope found in East and Southern Africa.  Credit Takumi Tsutaya/Kyushu University

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Article Source: Kyushu University news release.

For more information about this research, see “Palaeoproteomic investigation of archaeological sediments associated with ochre use in the Middle Stone Age of southern Africa,” Zahra Haghighi, Takumi Tsutaya, Elizabeth Catherine Velliky, Simon James Armitage, Christopher Miller, Meaghan Mackie, Francesco d’Errico, Gaudry Troché, Jesper Velgaard Olsen, Karen L. van Niekerk, Christopher Stuart Henshilwood, Enrico Cappellini. Proceedings of the Royal Society B, https://doi.org/10.1098/rspb.2025.3300

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The 2026 Battlefield Archaeology of the Battle of Cerignola (1503)

The Puglia Tableland in Time: A Corridor of Battles

Across the broad, wheat-gilded plateau of Puglia Tableland (Tavoliere di Puglia), between the Gargano promontory and the Ofanto River, armies have collided for two thousand years. Hannibal annihilated Rome at the Battle of Cannae on the Canosa di Puglia’s Ofanto’s banks in 216 BCE. Frederick II hunted with falcons from Torre Alemanna, the Templar-like grange that still dominates the plain 18 kilometers from Cerignola. On April 28, 1503, the same corridor decided the future of gunpowder warfare.

Cerignola sits at 120 meters above sea level on the southern rim of Puglia Tableland, a city that in 1503 was, in the words of its own municipal register, a rural village of just 350 families. In 1532, only twenty-nine years after the battle, Giustiniani recorded 277 fuochi — hearths — roughly 1,200 souls. This was not a city but a market town guarding the Mena della Dogana delle Pecore, the great transhumance customs system whose revenues funded the Kingdom of Naples. Its control was the reason the battle was fought here. Matteo Stuppiello’s Cerignola-based Centro Studi e Ricerche Torre Alemanna has documented this linkage: the battlefield of 1503 was fought explicitly ‘for the possession of Mena della Dogana delle Pecore’.

It is a landscape whose memory is tenacious and Italian toponomastics has repeatedly shown that peasant communities encode history into field names: the nineteenth-century municipal register for Cerignola, held in the local provincial capital, Foggia’s State Archive, has never been systematically searched for archaeological and historical reasons.

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The municipal banner of the city of Cerignola. (CREDITS: COMUNE DI CERIGNOLA – AMMINISTRAZIONE COMUNALE ).

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The Last Charge

He was thirty years old, handsomely armored, and certain he would win. Louis d’Armagnac, Duke of Nemours and Viceroy of Naples for Louis XII, looked at the low ridge outside Cerignola at dusk on April 28, 1503, and saw a tired Spanish army dug in behind a ditch, outnumbered in cavalry and artillery, commanded by a general who had been avoiding battle for months. The French gendarmes — the armored elite of Europe, the last heirs of the medieval knight — lowered their lances.

They never reached the line. From behind a hastily cut earthwork reinforced with vineyard stakes, more than 1,000 Spanish arquebusiers opened fire. The volley that killed Nemours — almost certainly the first European army commander to die by small-arms fire — also killed the cavalry charge as a dominant tactic. What no English-language history has asked is where those men fell, what the ditch looked like, and why contemporary witnesses thought its location worth carving into a church wall.

A Battlefield without a Map: The Scandal

No seventeenth- or eighteenth-century cartographer mapped the field. No memorial marks it. The site is not protected under the Codice dei Beni Culturali as a cultural landscape. Its perimeter is described in modern scholarship as ‘uncertain’. The consequence is practical: every season of deep plowing on Puglia Tableland— standard since the Bourbon land reforms — destroys near-surface archaeology that has never been recorded.

That uncertainty is solvable: Spanish military commander Gonzalo Fernández de Córdoba, marching from Barletta on April 27-28, 1503, with about 9,000 men, recognized the ridge as a natural glacis commanding the approaches from the south and west, with a reverse slope to shelter reserves and access to the Via Traiana corridor. Cross-referenced with sixteenth-century descriptions of ‘vineyard-covered slopes’ fifteen miles north of Ofanto river, the probable engagement zone is a rectangle of three to four square kilometers northeast of the modern town. With LiDAR, now available via ISPRA’s national Digital terrain Model (DTM) 1m, would reveal linear depressions inconsistent with natural topography. The lower fill of a ditch two to three meters deep would lie below plow damage, accessible to magnetometry and ground-penetrating radar.

The Sources No One Has Put in English

The reason Cerignola remained localist is not lack of sources, but lack of translation: the Comune of Cerignola and the Torre Alemanna research center have digitized a corpus that has never appeared in Anglophone scholarship: excluding the well-known local syntheses, these are the foundations for any future archaeology.

The Letter that still Smells of Gunpowder

Lettera di Consalvo da Cordova ai reali di Spagna (29 aprile 1503) – Un inedito sulla battaglia di Cerignola, curated by Matteo Stuppiello, published 2003, digital edition updated 07/03/2025 on comune.cerignola.fg.it/biblioteche-digitali, is a single manuscript page: Gonzalo’s own report to Ferdinand and Isabella, written in Cerignola the day after the battle. Stuppiello describes it as ‘ricca di bagliori, luci crepuscolari e spari’ — rich with twilight glows and gunshots.

Unlike the polished chronicles of Paolo Giovio or Francesco Guicciardini, it retains tactical detail: the fatigue of the night march from Barletta, the decision to entrench on arrival, the recovery and honorable burial of Nemours, the capture of the French artillery train intact.

For Popular Archaeology readers, this is the equivalent of finding a field dispatch from Bosworth — a primary source never cited in Black, Mallett & Shaw, or Montgomery, now available for download from the local municipal library.

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Gonzalo’s letter screenshots of 29 April 1503 — the only eyewitness account written on the battlefield. (CREDITS: COMUNE OF CERIGNOLA – CENTRO STUDI E RICERCHE TORRE ALEMANNA).

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The Graffito: A Monument Inside a Monument

In the tiny fourteenth-century church of Cerignola’s Santa Maria delle Grazie, known locally as the Incoronatella, on the old road to Trinitapoli (Via Trinitapoli Vecchia), three graffiti survive. One, dated 1503, is defined by the Comune of Cerignola as a ‘unique testimony of our territory about 28 aprile 1503 Battle [of Cerignola]’ and ‘monument inside a monument’.

The graffito was carved by an unknown hand on the right wall of the triumphal arch, in the very church where, according to both the church’s own tradition and Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie entry, the lifeless body of Louis d’Armagnac was brought after the battle. The text gives, in almost notarial form, chronological elements that refer precisely to April 28, 1503, VI indiction, Friday at hour XXIII-XXIIII — a detail confirmed by the perpetual calendar of Adriano Cappelli, where 28 April 1503 indeed fell on a Friday.

Its full decipherment was accomplished by Prof. Francesco Magistrale, Professor of Latin Paleography at the University of Bari, thanks to the initiative of Matteo Stuppiello. Magistrale’s reading, published in R. Licinio – F. Magistrale – G. Specchio, La Battaglia di Cerignola (28 aprile 1503) riflessi storici e artistici (1993) and in the Comune of Cerignola monograph S.M. delle Grazie (1999, financed for the 20th anniversary of the Museo Etnografico Cerignolano), provides numbers of combatants, protagonists, and even the hour of the French defeat. The monograph warns that ‘the only, unique testimony of the Battle of Cerignola… has lost, in a couple of years, its peculiar details of reading’ due to humidity and neglect.

As part of their work on the Battle of Cerignola, Centro Studi e Ricerche Torre Alemanna, the local chapter of Archeoclub d’Italia of Cerignola, and the Museo Etnografico Cerignolano Stuppiello —founded by local historian Matteo Struppiello—  revisited the scientific reading of the historic graffito preserved inside the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, especially as described on Matteo Stuppiello’s Letter from Gonzalo de Cordova to the King and Queen of Spain, April 29, 1503 – An Unpublished Document on the Battle of Cerignola, San Ferdinando di Puglia, 2003.

The scientific transcription and translation of the graffito was carried out in 1995 by the late Prof. Franco Magistrale, Professor of Latin Paleography, Department of Historical and Social Sciences, University of Bari.

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The graffito in Santa Maria delle Grazie, with raking light. Inset: Magistrale’s transcription. (CREDITS: MATTEO STUPPIELLO’S PRIVATE ARCHIVE – COMUNE OF CERIGNOLA).

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The Land Registry that Explains the Ditch

Why could Córdoba dig an effective anti-cavalry ditch in an afternoon? The answer is in the Archivio di Stato of Naples, fondo Pignatelli Aragona Cortes, Scanzia 63, fasc. 1, excerpted in the Comune of Cerignola’s 1672 Apprezzo. Here, two data points are decisive for battlefield archaeology.

First, the agricultural description: ‘Al tempo della battaglia, folti vigneti coprivano la collina arrivando fino al piano, ed erano nettamente separati dal resto della campagna da una fossa non molto profonda’. In English: ‘At the time of the battle, dense vineyards covered the hill down to the plain, separated by a not very deep shallow ditch’. In other words, Córdoba did not invent a trench ex nihilo, but he deepened and weaponized an existing agrarian feature, reinforcing it with vineyard stakes — exactly as the chronicles describe.

Second, the demographic context: the Giustiniani catasto cited by Vincenzo Buonassisi notes 277 fuochi in 1532 and 699 fuochi in 1595, falling to 288 fuochi in 1648. The shallow, intensively worked landscape of 1503 is therefore not the deep-plowed cereal monoculture of today. The lower fills of the 1503 ditch likely survive below modern plowsoil.

This linkage between archival agronomy and military engineering has never been made in English-language histories, which treat the ditch as improvised. It was adaptive reuse.

The Forgotten Historiography: Buonassisi and Pieri

Two local works, both digitized by the Comune, anchor the European significance: Vincenzo Buonassisi, La Battaglia di Cerignola, Cerignola, Scienza e Diletto, 1908, reprinted by the Cerignola’s Amministrazione Comunale in 1995 as La battaglia di Cerignola: in occasione della Festa al Borgo antico, 28-29-30 aprile 1995.

Buonassisi, who died in Via Fanfulla 10 on 27 June 1928, published the first monographic study of the battle. He established that Cerignola was occupied by the French before the battle and that the Spanish approached from the Ofanto river via Cannae, a route still traceable through Via Traiana. His description of the borgo as ‘in an advantageous situation’ remains the best contemporary topography.

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The cover of Vincenzo Buonassisi’s reprinted book ‘La Battaglia di Cerignola’. (CREDITS: COMUNE OF CERIGNOLA – 1995 AMMINISTRAZIONE COMUNALE).

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Also Brindisi-based Puglia regional archive stored Piero Pieri’s Consalvo di Cordova e la battaglia di Cerignola (28 aprile 1503)’, Archivio Storico Pugliese, Anno V, Fasc. I-IV, December 1952, pp. 265-283. Pieri’s paper, presented at the Secondo Congresso Storico Pugliese in 1952, is the first modern military analysis of Cerignola, arguing that it was not a chance encounter but a deliberately engineered killing ground: that predated by 30 years the Anglophone rediscovery of pike-and-shot. In addition, that historically valuable Piero Pieri’s document is cited in every Centro Studi e Ricerche Torre Alemanna pdf-formatted documents but never translated.

Additional context comes from the Dominican foundation: ‘The Dominican Fathers were already settled in 1501 Cerignola when they founded their convent and Church of San Domenico’ — explaining why Cerignola-based Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie was already a recognized sacred refuge in 1503.

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The cover of Piero Pieri’s document ‘Consalvo from Cordoba and the Battle ofCerignola’. (CREDITS: ARCHIVIO STORICO PUGLIESE, BRINDISI, SECONDO CONGRESSO STORICO PUGLIESE, 1952).

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What Spain still Remembers — and Amsterdam Preserves

While Cerignola forgot, Spain remembered institutionally. The Regimiento de Infantería Cerinola n. 42, later Fuerteventura n. 56. On 30 April 1986, prot. n. 4565/509, the Spanish Servicio Histórico Militar in Madrid officially transmitted to the Centro Studi e Ricerche Torre Alemanna ‘notizie sulla Divisione Militare Cirignola e sulla Battaglia di Cerignola,’ first published in S. Delvecchio – M. Occhionero – G. Specchio – M. Stuppiello, Schede didattiche sul territorio di Cerignola, 1987.

It details the coat of arms: ‘En campo de plata un cisne blanco terrazado, muriendo y apresado a una siepe… inscripción, en sable, Cerignola’. The blazon is formally described in Heraldica e Historiales del Ejercito, Tomo V – Infanteria, Madrid, 1981, pp. 46-47, 58-60. The text states: ‘Su nombre lo recibió en conmemoracion de la gloriosa batalla ganada, el 28 de abril de 1503, por las armas españolas en Italia mandadas por el Gran Capitan’. A Spanish infantry regiment bore Cerignola’s name until the 20th century.

In addition, Matteo Stuppiello’s Centro Studi e Ricerche Torre Alemanna dedicated a re-reading of it in its article The Regimiento de Infanteria CERINôLA of the Spanish Army: it explained why they chose to publish the coat of arms of the Spanish Army’s 56th Infantry Regiment Fuerteventura. It was a public thank you to Col. Alessio Antonutti, Italian Military and Air Attaché in Madrid, and Gen. José Cifuentes, Director of the Spanish Military Historical Service, who on April 30, 1986, provided them with official records on the “CIRIGNOLA” Military Division and the Battle of Cerignola.

The coat of arms itself has a long history: it originally belonged to the 42nd Peninsular Infantry Regiment Canarias. In 1899 that unit was renamed the 42nd Infantry Regiment Cerinola in honor of the battle. After several reorganizations, in 1956 it was merged with the 52nd Independent Infantry Battalion Fuerteventura and the 54th Lanzarote to form the current 56th Fuerteventura.

The official blazon, quoted from Heraldica e Historiales del Ejercito, Vol. V – Infanteria, Madrid, 1981, is striking: on a silver field, a white swan on a terrace, dying and caught in a hedge, topped with a gold mural crown, all encircled by two laurel branches tied with a pink ribbon and a scroll bearing the name Cerignola in black.

The text notes that these are the arms of the city of Cerignola itself, and the regiment took the name to commemorate the glorious victory won on April 28, 1503, in Italy by Spanish forces under the Great Captain, Gonzalo de Cordova, during the conquest of Naples against the Duke of Nemours.

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The cover of the book “La Banca ed il Territorio — Il Passato Riscoperto – Schede Illustrative”. (CREDITS: 1990 AMMINISTRAZIONE COMUNALE – ASSESSORATO AGRICOLTURA OF CERIGNOLA – CENTRO STUDI E RICERCHE TORRE ALEMANNA).

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The second object is located at the Rijksmuseum, the national museum of Amsterdam: a stunning example is the bronze medal celebrating the Battle of Cerignola, recently made available online by the Rijksmuseum: created by an anonymous artist to celebrate the victory of the Spanish, led by Gonzalo Fernandez de Cordova, over the French, the medal shows on the obverse Hercules with his lion skin and club and Janus with his bunch of keys: the two figures stand beside a coat of arms crowned by an eagle’s head, between the inscriptions ‘Consalvus Agidarius Tur. Gal. Dei R. Q. C. D. Dictator III. Parta Italiae Pace Janum clausit’. On the reverse, a battle scene appears inside the inscription ‘Consalvi Agidari Victoria de Gallis ad Cannas’.

The reference to Cannae/Cannas is a recognized historical mistake by the artist as the battle took place at Cerignola, and the site of Cannae on the Ofanto river played only a marginal role in the events. The example now in the Rijksmuseum belonged to Mrs. J.M. van Gelder-Nijhoff, who donated it to the Dutch Museum in 1885.

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The two sides of the bronze medal celebrating the Battle of Cerignola led by Gonzalo Fernandez de Cordova. (CREDITS: RIJKSMUSEUM, NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS).

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The Battle of Cerignola took place on April 28, 1503, and it was the turning point that shifted the war that had pitted the Spanish against the French since 1499 decisively in favor of Spain. At stake was control of the Province of Foggia, a major source of revenue for the state thanks to rents from the pastures used by the great Abruzzo flocks. The French believed it should be administered from the Abruzzi region, while the Spanish had established it as an autonomous province.

After freeing Barletta from the French siege, Gonzalo, known as the “Great Captain,” decided to meet the enemy army in the open field. He spent the night with his troops at Cannae, then marched toward Cerignola, where he lured the army led by Louis d’Armagnac, Duke of Nemours, into a fatal trap. The Spanish, heavily outnumbered, took position on a hill, digging a ditch around it and defending it with palisades.

The Great Captain placed his infantry in the center and light cavalry on the flanks. He then provoked the French with an attack by his light cavalry. The enemy counterattacked with heavy cavalry, which proved slow and cumbersome in its movements. When they reached the ditch and the palisade, the French realized they had fallen into a trap: they were suddenly hit by the flanking assault of the light cavalry Gonzalo had positioned on the sides and by the deadly fire of the arquebusiers, a weapon that had seen little use until then.

In the clash, almost all the French commanders lost their lives, including Armagnac himself, whose body Gonzalo ordered to be recovered and buried in Barletta. The victory at Cerignola reversed the course of the war, turning it in favor of the Spanish. And this commemorative medal is not the only treasure related to Cerignola held by the Dutch National Museum and now available to the public in high-resolution digital form.

Towards Recovery: Why it Has Not Been Done

The local community of Cerignola is not unaware: the Centro Studi e Ricerche Torre Alemanna, founded by Matteo Stuppiello — who obtained the first monumental possession for Torre Alemanna in 1978 under Law 1089/1939 — has lobbied for decades. The Museo Etnografico Cerignolano (1979) and Archeoclub d’Italia Sede of Cerignola preserve 2,000 catalogued artifacts of rural civilization, but no battlefield finds, because no survey has been authorized.

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The logos and siege of President Matteo Stuppiello’s local cultural associations and cultural centers. (CREDITS: MATTEO STUPPIELLO – MUSEO ETNOGRAFICO CERIGNOLANO – CENTRO E STUDI RICERCHE TORRE ALEMANNA , ARCHEOCLUB D’ITALIA SEDE DI CERIGNOLA).

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The ditch that Gonzalo Fernández de Córdoba ordered dug on the afternoon of April 28, 1503, is the most consequential earthwork in European warfare: it ended mounted chivalry, inaugurated the infantryman with a firearm, and shaped the Mediterranean for 160 years. It may still be there — filled, plowed over, invisible to the naked eye but accessible to a magnetometer.

Medieval Archaeology is not the question: its value is beyond doubt. The real question is why we are allowing one of Italy’s great early modern battlefields to disappear under the plow while we debate its importance from a podium. For Cerignola, public scholarship is now the front line. It is how we finally reclaim this history.

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Acknowledgements

This article would not have been possible without the open-access archival policy of the Comune of Cerignola and the decades of research carried out by the “Centro Studi e Ricerche ‘Torre Alemanna”,  “Archeoclub d’Italia Sede di Cerignola”, and the “Museo Etnografico Cerignolano (1979)”. The author wishes to thank the “Comune of Cerignola (Sindaco, Giunta Comunale, and the entire Amministrazione Comunale)” and the “Assessorato alla Cultura” for making available its digital libraries, including the unpublished Lettera di Consalvo da Cordova (29 aprile 1503), the Apprezzo del 1672, the S.M. delle Grazie monograph (1999), and the C.S.R. Torre Alemanna dossiers.

Special gratitude is due to Prof. Matteo Stuppiello founder and President of the “Centro Studi e Ricerche Torre Alemanna”, whose lifelong work secured the monumental possession for “Torre Alemanna (1978)” and the “Piano delle Fosse Granarie”, and who curated the transcription of Gonzalo’s letter, the Graffito, and the Spanish Army dossier.

The decipherment of the “Graffito of Santa Maria delle Grazie” – the ‘monument inside the monument’, the only contemporary epigraphic testimony of the Battle – is owed to Prof. Francesco Magistrale, University of Bari.

Special thanks for archival sources to “Archivio di Stato of Naples, Fondo Pignatelli Aragona Cortes”, “Servicio Histórico Militar of Madrid”, the “Rijksmuseum National Museum” of Amsterdam, and “Museo del Prado” of Madrid.

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Cover Image, Top:  Gonzalo Fernández de Córdoba at the Battle of Cerignola. (CREDITS: FEDERICO DE MADRAZO Y KUNTZ- COPYRIGHT © – MUSEO NACIONAL DEL PRADO, MADRID).

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Rewriting History: Before Mesopotamia and Egypt

It is a hill that should not have been there.

The first time you see Göbekli Tepe on a map, it looks like a mistake. Southeastern Anatolia, near the modern city of Şanlıurfa, is not where you go looking for the oldest monumental architecture on Earth. For a century and more, the textbooks pointed elsewhere. But the hill is there. It rises gently from the limestone plateau, unremarkable at first glance, just another mound in a landscape full of them. Farmers had been plowing its slopes for generations, knocking stone fragments loose with their plow blades, never suspecting what lay beneath.

The stones began to surface in the 1960s. American and Turkish archaeologists visited, looked at the broken limestone and the scattered flint, and assumed it was a Byzantine cemetery or a medieval outpost. Nobody dug deep. Nobody asked what a T-shaped pillar was doing under a hill that local tradition called ‘the navel of the mountain.’ The assumption was that anything monumental in this region had to be late. Late meant Greek, Roman, Byzantine. Early meant not worth the effort.

Then Klaus Schmidt arrived in 1994. He had been working at Nevalı Çori, a site thirty miles away that had already produced clues — carved stone heads, pillars, enclosures — before it disappeared under the waters of the Atatürk Dam. Schmidt had a sense that Nevalı Çori was not alone, that the region might hold older things. When he saw the pillars and the carved animals on the surface at Göbekli Tepe, he knew he was looking at something that rewrote the calendar. He did not dig for a season or two. He dug for twenty years, until his death in 2014, and every year the site pushed human achievement further back in time.

What Schmidt uncovered was a complex of circular enclosures, the largest of them anchored by T-shaped pillars that stood up to five and a half meters tall, each weighing several tons. The pillars were carved from the local limestone with flint tools. On their surfaces, in shallow relief, were foxes, snakes, scorpions, boars, vultures, cranes, aurochs, and creatures that may be leopards. Some pillars have arms and hands carved along their sides, as if the stones themselves were beings, standing in a ring, facing each other, watching.

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Göbekli Tepe, Şanlıurfa, excavation. Teomancimit, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

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This would be remarkable in any era. But the radiocarbon dates put the earliest enclosures at around 9,600 BCE. That is more than six thousand years before the Great Pyramid. It is before pottery. Before metal. Before domesticated wheat. Before what any standard definition of civilization required. The people who built Göbekli Tepe did not live in a city. They did not write. They did not have kings or bureaucrats. They were hunter-gatherers, moving with the seasons, tracking wild game and gathering wild plants. And yet they carved multi-ton blocks, moved them hundreds of meters, erected them in rings, and covered them with animal imagery.

The scale of the accomplishment is hard to absorb. Estimates for a single enclosure suggest that quarrying, carving, transporting, and erecting the pillars would have required hundreds of people working for months. Those people would have needed food, water, shelter, and organization. They would have needed someone to coordinate, someone to feed the workers, someone to resolve disputes. We have no evidence of permanent houses at the site. We have no evidence of agriculture in those early layers. What we have is feasting debris — tens of thousands of wild animal bones, mostly gazelle and aurochs — which suggests gatherings that were periodic, intense, and deliberate.

Klaus Schmidt’s conclusion, which he first published in German before the idea caught international fire, was that the hill represented a place of ritual, a sanctuary built by mobile hunter-gatherers across a wide region. This idea set off a storm in archaeology. Some researchers pushed back. Others rushed to examine their own sites with fresh eyes. But the central finding held: the world’s oldest known monumental architecture was built by people who did not yet farm.

The hill should not be there. Not according to the story we had been telling ourselves. And yet there it was — proof that some of the deepest human impulses, the drive to build, to represent, to gather and to worship, came not after agriculture, not after cities, not after the things we thought were prerequisites, but before. The implications of that single fact would ripple outward for decades, touching every assumption about how civilization begins.

A Region Older Than Its Reputation

Anatolia had been treated for most of the twentieth century as a cultural corridor, a place things passed through — trade goods, technologies, peoples — on their way between the great centers of the Tigris-Euphrates floodplain and the Aegean. Textbooks gave it a chapter, maybe two, tucked between Sumer and Minoan Crete. The Hittites got their due in the Bronze Age, and Çatalhöyük earned a mention as an oddity, a big early village that did not quite fit the model. But as a birthplace? As an origin point? That idea seemed too much to claim.

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Satellite view of Anatolia, present day Türkiye.

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Part of the problem was geographic. The Tigris and Euphrates rivers create the kind of environment that looks, to us, like civilization: flat, fertile, orderly, suited to irrigation, capable of supporting large populations and visible administrative structures. Anatolia is the opposite — dissected plateaus, steep valleys, rocky limestone slopes, a fragmented landscape that invites small communities, seasonal movement, and decentralized ways of life. When archaeologists looked for the roots of civilization, they looked where civilization seemed easiest to see.

The result was a self-confirming loop. Mesopotamia and Egypt were excavated first because they were expected to be the earliest. What was found there was interpreted as the beginning because the beginning was expected to be there. Anatolian sites, when they were found, were dated later or dismissed as provincial. The few diggers who argued otherwise had an uphill fight. The evidence for early Anatolian monumentality sat in plain view — at Göbekli Tepe, at Nevalı Çori, at sites now under the waters of the Euphrates — but the framework for understanding it did not yet exist.

And then the framework broke. The radiocarbon calibration work of the 1980s and 1990s, combined with new excavation strategies and a growing willingness to rethink the category of ‘civilization’ itself, opened a window. Göbekli Tepe’s earliest levels came in at 9,600 BCE. Çatalhöyük, long known but never fully integrated into origin stories, dated to around 7,100 BCE. Aşıklı Höyük pushed central Anatolian villages back to 8,500 BCE. Boncuklu Höyük, smaller and less famous, suggested the roots of the Çatalhöyük phenomenon reached even earlier, into the 8,000s BCE. All of this predated the first Sumerian cities by thousands of years. It predated dynastic Egypt by more than five millennia.

What made the new picture difficult to accept was not just the dates but the order of the steps. The old model assumed that agriculture came first, creating sedentation, food surplus, and social complexity. Only then could you have cities, temples, art, and organized ritual. But Anatolia’s Neolithic turned that sequence inside out. At Göbekli Tepe, the monumental structures came first, and the wild feasting, the elaborate symbolism, the coordinated labor. Farming arrived later, gradually, over centuries, as one part of a process that had already been set in motion by something else — some prior urge to gather, to build, to mark the landscape with meaning.

The region’s reputation had never matched its actual contents. Nevalı Çori, excavated in the 1980s as a rescue dig before its valley was flooded, produced buildings with embedded T-shaped pillars, carved human heads, and a terrazzo floor made of a concrete-like substance — all from the same era as early Göbekli Tepe. Then the water covered it. Today it is invisible, a lost site in a reservoir, remembered only in excavation reports and museum displays. How many other such sites lie under Turkish dam reservoirs, unrecorded, undiscovered, gone forever? No one can say.

The lesson of Nevalı Çori is that the region’s early achievements were not isolated anomalies. Göbekli Tepe was the most spectacular, but it belonged to a network of communities that shared ideas, techniques, and a symbolic language. The pillared enclosures were not one fluke of genius. They were a regional tradition, repeated across hundreds of kilometers, maintained over centuries, and passed from one generation to the next. That kind of persistence requires infrastructure — not of stone, but of memory, teaching, and shared meaning.

The question, then, is not whether Anatolia was a birthplace. The evidence says it was. The question is why we resisted that conclusion for so long, and what else we have been getting wrong by assuming the origin story we inherited was complete.

The Landscape Before the Builders

To understand what happened at Göbekli Tepe and its neighboring sites, you have to understand the land itself. Southeastern Anatolia is not a stage set. It’s a specific place, with a specific climate, specific stone, and specific rhythms that shaped the lives of the people who lived there eleven thousand years ago. The region sits on limestone, soft enough to quarry with flint but hard enough to hold a carved edge. The hills are bare in summer, dotted with oak and pistachio in wetter years, and the landscape is broken by seasonal streams that flood in spring and vanish in late summer.

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Today’s relativley barren, rocky landscape surrounding Göbekli Tepe. Dosseman, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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The climate during the early Neolithic was different from today’s — slightly wetter, slightly warmer, with more reliable rainfall. Wild wheat and barley grew in the hills. Wild sheep, goats, cattle, and gazelle grazed the steppes. The Euphrates and Tigris rivers, fed by mountain snowmelt, provided permanent water and drew animals in herds. It was a rich landscape, abundant enough to support large gatherings of people for short periods without requiring anyone to plant a field or pen a flock.

This is a crucial point. The builders of Göbekli Tepe did not build in a barren wasteland, struggling for survival. They built in a landscape of plenty. They could afford to take time away from hunting and gathering to quarry stone, carve images, and raise pillars. They could afford the calories. They could afford the risk. Some archaeologists argue that this very abundance is why agriculture was slow to take hold in the region: there was no pressure to intensify food production when wild food was already sufficient.

But abundance alone does not explain the construction. Animal herding, after all, would have been easier than carving a five-meter pillar. The landscape provided the conditions, but the decision to build came from something else — a social or spiritual impulse, a shared idea about what this place was and what it meant. The hill itself seems to have been special. Its name, in the local Arabic dialect, means ‘the navel of the mountain,’ a phrase that suggests it was remembered as a center, a point of orientation, long before any archaeologist arrived to give it a catalog number.

Surveys around the site have found no evidence of permanent settlement in the earliest phase. No house foundations, no hearths that suggest year-round occupation. What they have found are massive quantities of animal bones, mostly from wild species, and the remains of large-scale stone tool production. The builders camped nearby, perhaps for weeks or months at a time, then dispersed back into the landscape. They returned seasonally or periodically, adding to the enclosures, filling in old ones, building new ones on top.

The stone itself tells a story. The T-shaped pillars were quarried from the local limestone bedrock, sometimes from pits just a few hundred meters from the enclosures. The limestone is soft enough to work with flint and bone tools, but transporting a ten-ton pillar, even over flat ground, required ropes, rollers, sledges, and a coordinated team. The quarrying scars are still visible in the bedrock, a reminder that this was not built by magic or by aliens, but by human effort, repeated thousands of times.

What we do not find in this landscape is just as telling. No pottery, which would have been invented in the region only later. No metal. No wheel. No writing. No evidence of a ruling class living in palaces. The builders’ toolkit was stone, wood, bone, skin, and sinew. Their social organization remains a matter of debate, but nothing in the archaeological record suggests a coercive hierarchy. What seems to have brought them together was not a king’s command but a shared commitment, a set of beliefs strong enough to organize labor on a monumental scale.

This is the landscape the builders inherited and transformed. A rich, broken, limestone country where the materials for making history were lying on the ground, waiting for a group of people to decide that some places mattered more than others, and that they would prove it in stone.

The Emergence of Ritual and Monumentality

Why did hunter-gatherers build Göbekli Tepe? The question has consumed archaeologists for three decades, and no single answer has satisfied everyone. But the most persuasive explanation, developed by Klaus Schmidt and supported by the evidence on the ground, is that the hill was a place of ritual — a sanctuary where dispersed groups gathered at intervals to feast, to bury their dead, to reinforce social bonds, and to act out shared beliefs about the cosmos, the animals, and the dead.

The pillar carvings are not random. The animals — foxes, snakes, scorpions, vultures, cranes, boars — appear in deliberate combinations. Some researchers read them as clan symbols, totemic animals representing different groups who came together at the site. Others see them as elements of a cosmological system, a vocabulary of creatures with meanings now lost to us. The vultures, in particular, have drawn attention because they are associated with death and the removal of flesh from bones in later Anatolian and Mesopotamian traditions. 

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Vulture Stone, Gobekli Tepe, Sanliurfa. Sue Fleckney, CC BY-SA 2.0, Wikimedia Commons

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Human bones found at the site support the idea that death and memory were central concerns. The bones are fragmentary and often show cut marks, suggesting a multi-stage mortuary practice — perhaps exposure to vultures, followed by defleshing, followed by burial of selected bones inside the enclosures. This is not casual disposal. It is ritual handling of the dead, perhaps intended to keep ancestors close, to honor them, or to incorporate them into the ongoing life of the sanctuary.

The scale of the feasting is staggering. Analysis of animal bones from the earliest levels shows that hundreds of gazelle and aurochs were killed and consumed at the site. The meat was not dried and stored; it was eaten fresh, in large quantities, over short periods. This suggests periodic gatherings of considerable size — hundreds of people, perhaps more — coming together for events that lasted days or weeks. The logistics of such gatherings, from the provision of wild food to the disposal of waste, imply a high degree of social coordination.

Monumentality, in this context, served a function. It made the gatherings visible and durable. It created a place that persisted in the landscape even when the people had dispersed. The pillars, with their carved animals and human-like features, stood as permanent witnesses to the meetings that had occurred. They were not utilitarian; they were symbolic. But their symbolism was the point. They were the reason people gathered, the anchor that called them back year after year.

What makes this remarkable is not just that hunter-gatherers built monuments. It is that monument-building appears to have preceded the other things we associate with complex society. Agriculture, pottery, villages, and ultimately cities all came later. The ritual impulse, the drive to create sacred spaces and to gather around them, came first. This inverts the standard evolutionary story, which assumed that religion was the product of settled life, a luxury made possible by farming and surplus.

At Göbekli Tepe, the sequence is exactly reversed. Religion was not the result of civilization; it may have been one of its causes. The need to gather at the hill, to build and rebuild its enclosures, to feed the crowds who came, may have created the very conditions — intensified resource use, territorial attachment, social complexity — that eventually led people to settle down and to domesticate plants and animals.

This hypothesis remains contested. Some archaeologists argue that the link between Göbekli Tepe and later agriculture is speculative. Others suggest the site may have been built by people who already had some form of incipient cultivation. But the broad outline holds: in Anatolia, monumental ritual architecture came before farming, before villages, before the things we thought were required for such works. The builders were not trying to become civilized. They were trying to honor something, to mark something, to gather around something. And in doing so, they set in motion a chain of events that would eventually produce the very civilizations that later forgot them.

A New Starting Point for Civilization

When you change the starting point of a story, everything downstream shifts. If civilization did not begin with cities and kings, but with sanctuaries and gatherings, then our understanding of what civilization is — and what it is for — has to change too. The Anatolian Neolithic does not just add a chapter to the history books. It rewrites the preface, and maybe the whole first half.

Consider the standard narrative: humans lived as hunter-gatherers for hundreds of thousands of years, then discovered agriculture, settled down, built villages that grew into cities, invented writing and metalwork, and eventually produced the civilizations of Egypt and Mesopotamia, from which tradition often teaches all later history descends. That narrative is tidy. It has a clear sequence. It flatters our sense of progress. But at every step, it takes the outcomes of civilization and treats them as its causes.

Göbekli Tepe and its neighbors break the sequence. They show that complex social organization, monumental architecture, and elaborate symbolic systems existed before agriculture, before pottery, before metal. They show that hunter-gatherers were capable of feats that the old model reserved for farmers and city-dwellers. They show that the urge to build and to worship was not a consequence of settled life but may have been one of the forces that made settled life possible.

This is not a small correction. It is a reorientation. The birth of civilization, seen from Anatolia, looks less like a technological revolution and more like a social and spiritual one. The first builders were not responding to environmental necessity; they were creating something new out of shared belief and collective effort. The great stone rings of Göbekli Tepe were not pyramids in embryo. They were something else — a kind of architecture that had no precedent because it was itself the precedent.

And Anatolia did not stop with Göbekli Tepe. The region that produced the world’s earliest known monumental sanctuary went on to produce some of the earliest known villages, the earliest known pottery in this part of the world, and, millennia later, the Hittite Empire. The thread is not continuous — there are gaps, collapses, and discontinuities — but the region’s role as an innovator is undeniable. What happened there in the Neolithic set patterns that would echo across the Near East and beyond.

For the reader encountering these sites for the first time, the challenge is to unlearn the chronology they were taught. Egypt is not the beginning. Sumer is not the beginning. They are later chapters in a story whose opening lines were written in stone on a hilltop in southeastern Anatolia, thousands of years before the first pyramid rose at Giza. That is not to diminish Egypt or Mesopotamia. Their achievements were real and their influence immense. But they were inheritors, not originators. The origin point lies farther north, farther back, and in a way of life we were taught to dismiss as primitive.

The birth of civilization, seen from this angle, was not a single event but a long, uneven process, marked by experiments, failures, and unexpected breakthroughs. Some of the earliest experiments were built of stone and buried on purpose. They survived precisely because they were buried. And now, after twelve thousand years, they are forcing us to reconsider everything we thought we knew about how the human story begins.

The Living Presence of the Neolithic

The sites described here are not abstract data points. They are physical places, with weather, with dust, with the smell of dry grass and hot stone. You can visit them. You can stand where the builders stood, see the same limestone, feel the same sun. And when you do, something shifts. The Neolithic stops being a chapter in a textbook and becomes a lived reality, a time of real people making real decisions with real consequences.

Göbekli Tepe today is partially excavated, partially protected under modern shelters, and partially still buried. The main enclosures sit in pits dug into the ancient hill, their pillars rising from the clay and rubble that filled them centuries after their builders walked away. You stand on a wooden walkway above the excavation, looking down at stones that have not been exposed to open air since they were buried nine millennia ago. The carvings are faint but readable: a fox leaping, a scorpion crawling, a vulture spreading its wings.

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Credit Radosław Botev, CC BY-SA 3.0 PL, Wikimedia Commons

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There is a particular quality to that experience. It is not like visiting a reconstruction or a museum. The site is raw, partial, still in the process of being uncovered. Some pillars lie where they fell, their carvings worn by the weight of time. Others stand upright, still embedded in the walls that held them. The sense of incompleteness is part of the power. You are seeing a place that is still giving up its secrets, still being argued over, still challenging those who study it.

Reading about these sites is one thing. Being there is another. The distances involved — the walk from the quarry to the enclosure, the sight-lines from the hill across the plain — become tangible. You understand, in a way that a diagram cannot convey, what it meant to move a ten-ton stone across that specific terrain, under that specific sky. You understand the scale of the commitment, the stubbornness, the sheer physical effort.

The Neolithic world is not entirely gone, even now. Some of the wild wheat and barley that the early farmers eventually domesticated still grow in the hills. The patterns of seasonal movement that shaped the builders’ lives persist in the rhythms of pastoralists who still graze their flocks in the same regions. The vultures that may have attended the dead still circle over the plateau. The landscape carries continuity in ways that cities do not.

This book is an invitation to see that continuity, and to see the Anatolian Neolithic as a living presence rather than a dead past. The stones are not just artifacts. They are messages, left by people who wanted to say something about their place in the world, about the animals they shared it with, about the dead and the living and the powers they sensed beyond both. The messages are partial, eroded, sometimes indecipherable. But they are there.

And the deeper message — the one that emerges when you piece together Göbekli Tepe, Çatalhöyük, Aşıklı, Boncuklu, and the rest — is that the people who built these places were not lesser versions of us. They were not waiting to become civilized. They were already fully themselves, fully human, fully capable of creating meaning on a monumental scale. The birth of civilization was not the moment they became us. It was the moment we began to forget who they were.

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Herculaneum: The Final Hours

No one knows her name.

The hollow cavities that once held her eyes in her last, terrifying, desperate moment of life nearly 2,000 years ago stared back at me in silence. Surrounded by the articulated skeletal remains of family and friends, her bones told a story of a catastrophe that still echoes across time to this day. I was peering into a cave-like construction that once housed fishing equipment — one among 12 of them — neatly arranged, built in a straight-line row along the back perimeter of what is today a flat but stoney surface. It defined the dimensions of what was once an ancient city’s inviting seaside beach…..

 

The Town That Waited for the Sky to Fall

There is a particular hour in Naples, somewhere between four and five in the morning, when the city goes so quiet you can hear the water moving in the bay. I know that hour better than I should. I was awake for it again last night, sitting at a rented kitchen table with notebooks fanned out around me and a rucksack half-packed by the door. Tomorrow the fieldwork begins. Tonight, sleep refuses to come.

I have spent much of my working life traveling to places that are no longer alive. That is not a morbid confession. It is simply what I do. I fly somewhere, rent a room, walk through trenches and depots and fenced-off ruins, and try to write down what I find before the light changes. I have done this in Turkey, in Greece, in Egypt, in a dozen hilltop sites where the wind never stops. The work suits me. It offers the one thing journalism rarely provides: a subject that will never contradict what you wrote.

Over the years I stopped tracking my life by city or by story and started tracking it by ash. I could tell you what I was doing when I first stood in the shadow of a buried wall in Anatolia, or which year I watched a colleague brush dust off a mosaic floor in a trench outside Rome. These are the marks I use now. Layers of ash, one on top of another. Each one holds a season, a decision, a person I was at the time.

People sometimes ask—why ancient sites? They assume it is about escape, or romance, or some private nostalgia for a world that once existed. The truth is closer to the opposite. An ancient site is a place where every comfortable story falls apart. The people who lived there were not waiting to become history. They were making dinner, arguing about money, hiring a contractor, buying a new pair of sandals. Then everything stopped. What is left behind is the most honest record we have of what it meant to be alive when everything stopped.

That is the part of the job I keep returning to. Not the temples or the frescoes, which are beautiful and endlessly photographed, but the interruptions. A pot left on a stove. A door bolted from the inside. Coins dropped on a floor by someone who never again had the chance to bend down to pick them up. These are the details that make the past feel present tense, and they are the reason I keep going to places many people may not think to visit.

When I tell people about my work, I notice they often want the romance. They want to hear about the sunsets over the Forum and the morning coffee in a piazza that has not changed in four hundred years. I understand that. I have felt it too. But the sites that stay with me are never the postcard ones. They are the ones where something went wrong, and where the evidence of that wrongness is still sitting there, patiently, waiting for someone to look.

That is how I came to Herculaneum. Not through a grand plan, not through a research grant, not because a publisher sent me. I came because of a photograph I could not put down, and because a question had begun forming in my mind that no other site could answer. What does a town look like when it is caught in the middle of an ordinary day and never allowed to finish it? I did not know then that I would spend years trying to answer that question. I only knew that I could not stop looking.

The Boat Houses I Could Not Forget

The first time I saw them, I was not prepared. I want to say that plainly, because the experience is the reason this book exists. I had read the excavation reports. I had seen the published photographs. I had even written about the site in a short piece years before, and I thought I understood what was there. I did not understand anything.

Herculaneum sits below the modern town of Ercolano, on the Bay of Naples, about halfway between Naples and the shadow of the mountain that killed it. There is a long ramp that descends from the ticket office into a trench cut through volcanic rock. You walk down, the noise of the city above fades, and eventually you are standing at the edge of what was once a shoreline which now has not seen the sea since the first century.

The boat houses line the edge of that waterfront. They are vaulted chambers, originally built to shelter ships and fishing gear, and they still do the job they were built for: they hold things. What they hold now is people. Dozens of them, crowded into a handful of small stone rooms, pressed together so tightly that the excavators had to work carefully to figure out whose arm belonged to whom.

I remember the posture of one of them more clearly than I can describe. A young woman, turned toward the wall, her hand raised near her face. The forensic work later suggested she may have been shielding herself from the heat, or simply covering her eyes. What struck me was not the science. It was the gesture. It was so recognizably human, so completely ordinary, that for a moment I forgot she had been dead for nearly two thousand years and I was standing in front of her, healthy, well fed, holding a notebook.

I did not write anything down that afternoon. I took a few photographs, walked back up the ramp, and sat in a cafe near the station for two hours without ordering anything. That image followed me home. It followed me to the airport. It followed me to my desk at home, where I sat down to work on other stories and found myself opening the same mental folder on Herculaneum again and again.

What I could not shake was not the horror of it. I have seen horror in other places, and I can usually file it away. What I could not shake was the intimacy. Those skeletons were not arranged for display. They were not posed. They were exactly where the people had placed themselves when they understood there was nowhere left to go. I was looking at a decision. Not a symbol of one. A decision.

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Above, Herculaneum, showing boathouses lining what was once an ancient shore.

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The unforgettable scene within one of the boathouses.

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I began reading everything I could find. Excavation bulletins, volcanology papers, forensic anthropology monographs, the letters of eighteenth-century diggers written in Italian and almost illegible handwriting. I ordered books I could barely afford from university presses. I learned terms I had no business knowing, and I noticed that the more I learned, the more the empty spaces in the story bothered me. There was so much that we did not know, and so much that we had once known and lost. Something in me wanted to fill in the gaps.

Eventually I understood that I was not going to put this down. This experience had become a project. The project had become a question. The question was simple and enormous: what happened here, hour by hour, to the people who lived in this town? I had read many accounts of Pompeii, and I will say more about that in a moment, but Herculaneum had never been given the same treatment. It had the better-preserved remains, the stranger fate, and the smaller audience. That imbalance is the reason this book exists.

The Problem This Book Confronts

There are two famous towns on the Bay of Naples, and almost everyone is familiar with only one. Pompeii appears in textbooks, in films, in children’s books, in the brochures that fan out across hotel lobbies. Herculaneum appears in parentheses. It is the smaller name, the lesser sibling, the town that gets mentioned when the conversation is running long.

This is not because Herculaneum is uninteresting. It is because Pompeii has a better story for retelling. Pompeii was buried in falling ash, which is dramatic and easy to picture. People fled through the streets, and some of them died in those streets, and their bodies left hollows in the ash that excavators were later able to fill with plaster. Those plaster casts are among the most recognizable images in the world. They travel well. They reproduce beautifully on a coffee-table book cover.

Herculaneum had a different ending. It was not buried by falling ash. It was buried by something much more violent, much hotter, and much faster, and the result is a town that was simultaneously destroyed and preserved in ways Pompeii was not. If I explain the science here, I will be stealing from a later part of the book. What matters for now is this: the two towns experienced two different catastrophes, and the town that experienced the more unusual one is the town that gets the shorter chapter in most histories.

I want to correct that. Not because Pompeii is overrated, and not because Herculaneum deserves a kind of archaeological revenge. Pompeii is extraordinary, and I have spent long hours there too. What bothers me is the way one story crowds out the other. When we reduce this eruption to a single image, we lose the fact that it happened differently in different places, at different times, to different people. We lose the human texture. We lose the girl in the boat house with her hand near her face.

There is also a practical problem. Much of what was once possible to recover from Herculaneum was destroyed centuries ago by people who meant well and did terrible damage. The earliest excavators came for statues and marbles and anything they could sell or display in a royal collection. They tunneled through walls, cut through floors, and dumped what they considered rubble into the sea. Whole rooms vanished before anyone thought to photograph or draw them. There are things we will never know because someone with a lamp and a chisel got there first.

That loss shapes everything I write in this book. I am not working with a complete archive. I am working with fragments, some of them magnificent, some of them barely legible. Every claim I make about the last day rests on evidence that survived a series of accidents. When I describe what a room looked like, or what a person was doing in it, I am describing the best reconstruction that the surviving evidence will support, and I am trying to be honest about where the gaps are.

What I am not going to do is pretend the gaps do not matter, or fill them in with imagination and call it history. There is a genre of writing about the ancient world that does exactly that, and it produces beautiful books that mislead their readers. I have no interest in that. My job is to take the fragments seriously, to follow them as far as they go, and to stop where they stop. The people of Herculaneum deserve that much. They cannot correct me, but I can at least decline to invent them.

The problem this book confronts, then, is twofold. The first problem is that Herculaneum’s story is under-told. The second problem is that the version we do tell is often incomplete, or wrong, or softened in ways the evidence does not support. I am trying to write a book that is honest about both. That means telling a story most readers have not heard in full, and telling it with the seams showing.

My Method

I am a journalist, not an archaeologist. That distinction matters, because it shapes what I can see and what I cannot. I do not have the training to read a stratigraphic section on my own, and I do not pretend otherwise. What I do have is the habit of asking people what they do and then listening carefully to the answer. I have spent years interviewing archaeologists, volcanologists, forensic anthropologists, conservators, and guards. This book is the product of that habit, applied over a long period to a single town.

My method has four sources. The first is the excavation record itself: the reports, the drawings, the photographs, the daybooks kept by the people who dug. These are not neutral documents. They reflect the assumptions of whoever was holding the trowel and the budget of whoever was paying for it. But read carefully, and read alongside each other, they form the closest thing we have to a continuous account of what was found and where.

The second source is volcanology. In the last several decades, a great deal of work has been done on the deposits around Vesuvius, and that work has given us a timeline of the eruption that earlier scholars could only guess at. Ash layers act as timestamps. Different deposits correspond to different phases of the event, and the order of those deposits tells us what happened when. This is the part of the book where I lean most heavily on other people’s expertise, and I try to represent their conclusions accurately, including the places where they disagree.

The third source is forensic anthropology. The skeletons at Herculaneum have been studied in ways that would have been impossible a century ago. We can now say a great deal about the age, health, and living conditions of the people who died, and in some cases about the final moments of their lives. This research is unglamorous and painful and slow, and it has changed the way we understand the last day more than any single excavation. I owe a debt to the specialists who do this work and who agreed to explain it to me.

The fourth source is the town itself, in the expanded sense. Not just the buildings, but the objects, the graffiti, the tools, the food residue, the repairs made to a floor after a leak, the extra lock on a door that suggests somebody had been worried about theft. This is the material that lets us date the moment of destruction precisely and that shows us what real people were doing when the eruption caught them. It is also the material that most rewards patience. A single object, looked at closely, can carry more information than a paragraph of speculation.

My job is to bring these four sources into the same room and see what they say to each other. Most of the time they agree, and the picture sharpens. Sometimes they conflict, and I say so. Occasionally they leave a hole in the story that no amount of careful reading can fill, and I say that too. The result is not a seamless narrative. It is a reconstruction with visible joints, and I would rather show you the joints than pretend they are not there.

There is one more thing I should mention, because it affects how this book reads. I have walked the site many times, at different hours and in different seasons. I have stood in the same rooms the people died in, and I have tried, without much success, to feel what they felt. I do not trust that feeling. It is too easy to project, too easy to confuse my own discomfort with their experience. But I have not stopped walking. The physical experience of a place is not evidence, but it is a way of noticing evidence. It keeps me attention to details a photograph flattens. I use it as a tool, and I do not confuse it with a source.

The Promise

This book tells the story of Herculaneum’s final twenty-four hours in the order the town experienced them. That is a simple promise and a demanding one. It means starting the clock before most accounts do, in the ordinary hours when nothing seemed wrong, and stopping it only after the last residents had been sealed inside the place they had lived. It means resisting the temptation to open with the dramatic images, even though I could. It means earning the eruption before I describe it.

The order matters because the people of Herculaneum did not know they were living on the last day of their lives. They awakened that morning the way they always did, with errands to run and customers to serve. Any account that begins in the middle of the catastrophe is an account that has already cheated. It has given the reader knowledge the residents did not have, and in doing so it has made them into victims before it has made them into people. I want to do it the other way around.

There will be a mountain in this story, and ash, and heat, and waves of destruction that I will describe in their proper place. There will also be bread, and baths, and a town that was, by every account we have, pleasant to live in. That last detail is the one I keep circling back to, because it is the one that makes the story hard to hold in my head. The place was good. People liked it there. They had no reason to expect the sky to fall.

I have been asked more than once why I would spend years on this when there are living disasters to write about. The answer is not that the ancient dead are more important. The answer is that distance can make us honest. When the event is recent, we argue about blame and prevention and politics. When the event is two thousand years old, we can finally see the simplest fact about it, which is that ordinary people did everything right and still did not survive. There is something in that fact that I have not been able to put down, and I do not think I am alone.

What I am offering here is not a complete history of Herculaneum. Others are better qualified to write that book, and some have. What I am offering is a single day, examined as closely as the evidence allows, with the sources named and the uncertainties acknowledged. If I have done my job, you will close this book knowing more about the Roman world than you did when you opened it, and also knowing more about what it feels like to be a person in a place that is about to end.

I do not know how the girl in the boat house felt. I never will. She left no journal, no letter, no last words carved into a wall. What she left was her position, her hand near her face, and the fact that she was there. That is not much. But it is not nothing. It is a fragment of a person, and the whole work of this book is to take that fragment seriously, alongside thousands of others like it, until they add up to something we can almost see.

So the promise is this. I will start at the beginning of the day. I will move at the speed of the town. I will not invent what I cannot support, and I will not look away when the evidence becomes difficult. Where the record ends, I will say so. Where the record surprises me, I will say that too. And when the last page comes, I hope you will understand why a working journalist with a rented apartment in Naples and a folder full of photocopies could not stop thinking about the boat houses, and why he decided, after all this time, to try to bring them back into the light.

Chapter 1: A Town in the Shadow of a Mountain

Wealth, Leisure, and the Sea

Dr. Lucia Ferrante keeps a plastic tray of broken glass in her lap, like a dinner guest who has overstayed her welcome. The depot where she works outside Ercolano is not the glamorous museum floor most people imagine when they hear the word archaeology. It is a converted warehouse with fluorescent lights, metal shelving, and the faint smell of damp cardboard. She is cataloguing fragments of Roman windowpanes, thin discs of glass that once made a seaside villa sparkle above the Bay of Naples. Each shard is smaller than her thumb.

“Everyone wants the skeletons,” she says, not looking up. “They come off the tour bus and ask where the bones are. They want the horror. What they miss is that this town was rich enough to put glass in its windows. That fact alone tells you more about who lived here than any pile of skulls.”

She is right, and it took me a long time to understand how right. Herculaneum was not Pompeii’s poor cousin or its industrial neighbor. It was a resort town, a place where wealthy Romans kept second homes and where the air was believed to be good for the lungs. The town sat on a gentle slope above the water, catching the breeze off the bay. Its streets were narrower and quieter than Pompeii’s, and its houses featured better views with elaborate gardens.

What made Herculaneum pleasant is precisely what made it doomed. Wealth concentrates. It builds fine houses. It draws people who can afford to live well and who have no reason to keep a pack animal saddled by the door. When the crisis came, the residents of Herculaneum had invested everything in the beauty of the place. Villas with mosaic floors. Baths with heated walls. Wine cellars stocked with vintages from across the empire. Shops selling perfumes and garum and imported oil. The very refinements that made the town worth living in also made it heavy and slow to leave.

I asked Lucia whether she thinks the town’s prosperity made its people less able to read the warning signs. She set down her tray and considered the question for a long moment. “That assumes they knew what to read,” she said. “We look back with two thousand years of hindsight and call them blind. They called themselves lucky. There is a difference.”

The difference matters. Herculaneum’s residents were not fools. They were people who had chosen to live in one of the most beautiful places in the Roman world, and who had every reason to believe that beauty was permanent. Their houses looked out on the sea. Their neighbors were senators and merchants and retired military men. Their children played in gardens with fountains. When they heard a rumble in the earth, they did what most of us do when we hear a rumble in the earth. They waited for it to stop.

Lucia showed me a small storage room where she keeps what she calls the town’s “domestic voice.” Lamps. Cooking pots. A child’s wooden toy shaped like a bird. A set of bronze tweezers. A loaf of bread that had been carbonized in the heat and preserved, absurdly, in the shape of a loaf. These are the objects that make her indignant when visitors ask about the skeletons. They are the evidence that Herculaneum was not a graveyard. It was a neighborhood.

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Household objects of Herculaneum preserved by the eruption, as exhibited in the Archaerium, Herculaneum’s onsite museum.

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I left the depot that afternoon thinking about the glass. Window glass in the ancient world was a luxury, and most Roman towns went without it entirely. But Herculaneum had it in abundance, in wide panes that let in the morning sun and the sea air. That glass means the town was comfortable. It means the residents could see out and the light could come in. It means they were thinking about the quality of their days. They had no reason to think the sky was about to fall, and every reason to believe tomorrow would be as luminous as today.

When a society grows comfortable, it stops rehearsing the worst. There are no emergency drills in paradise. There is no plan for the morning the mountain wakes up. There is only the view, and the glass, and the belief that both will last forever.

The Mountain Nobody Feared

To understand what the residents of Herculaneum saw when they looked up, you have to forget what you know about Vesuvius. You have to unlearn the postcard image of a smoking cone towering over a doomed city. The mountain that rises above the Bay of Naples today looks like a threat. It looks like the reason Rome fell. It looks like the shape of disaster. But two thousand years ago, before the eruption, the landscape told a different story.

The geographer Strabo visited the region and wrote that Vesuvius was covered in fields. Not lava fields. Farm fields. He described it as a mountain with good soil and fruitful slopes, and he noted that the summit was flat and barren, as if the mountain had burned long ago and settled into sleep. Most Romans read Vesuvius the way we read a dormant bank account. The balance had been sitting there for a long time. Nobody expected it to move.

The fertile soil should have been a clue. Volcanic ash enriches the earth, and the wine and grain that grew on the slopes of Vesuvius were praised across the empire. Farmers planted those slopes because they were productive, and they were productive because the mountain had erupted before. But human beings are good at forgetting. We see the harvest and not the harvest’s cost. We see the vines and not the volcano underneath.

There were earthquakes. There are always earthquakes before a major eruption, and the region around Vesuvius had been shaking for years. In 62 CE, a powerful quake damaged Pompeii, Herculaneum, and several other towns on the bay. Temples cracked. Homes collapsed. The Emperor Nero sent funds to help with repairs, and builders were still at work during the eruption. But no one linked the earthquakes to a coming eruption, because no one had learned to read the sequence. This was not a people who were warned and ignored it. This was a people who had never lived through an eruption and had no reason to think of the mountain as something that could act.

There is a pattern here that should feel familiar. Coastal cities rebuild after hurricanes. Towns on the San Andreas fault pour new foundations. We build and rebuild because we have to, because the alternative is to abandon the place we love, and because the deep past feels less real than the present opportunity. A tremor here and there is part of the deal. The mountain is always sleeping. Until it isn’t.

Lucia showed me a section of a wall in one of the excavated houses, and she pointed out a crack that runs through the plaster. The crack was repaired with new plaster before the eruption. “That is the town’s answer to the earthquake,” she said. “They patched the wall. They went back to dinner. This is not stupidity. This is the way every human settlement handles danger. You measure the level of threat you can tolerate, and you live your life.”

I have thought about that crack many times since. It is a small thing, a diagonal line in a wall in a town that no longer exists. But it is also the whole story in miniature. The people of Herculaneum felt the ground move under their feet, and they chose to live with it. They repaired what was broken and continued their lives. The mountain watched them from the north, covered in vines, and waited.

Signs Before the Catastrophe

We like to think we would have noticed. We like to think that if we had been there, we would have packed our bags and left the moment the ground started shaking in the months before the eruption. But the evidence from Herculaneum suggests something harder to accept. The signs were not obvious, and even if they had been, the people who lived there were in the middle of their lives. They had children in school, businesses to run, debts to pay, ships arriving with cargo, and no language for what was coming.

Seismology did not exist. There was no science of volcanoes. The word “volcano” itself would not enter wide use for another thousand years. The Romans had stories about fire mountains, but those stories were old and strange, and they described events in far-off places. Etna in Sicily erupted regularly, so the Romans knew that mountains could spew fire. But Etna’s eruptions were understood as part of the natural rhythm of that particular place, not as a template for every hill in Italy.

Vesuvius had not erupted in living memory. The people of Herculaneum had no grandparents who could tell them what to expect. They had no folk memory of a plume of ash rising from the summit. What they had was a fertile mountain, a defensive plateau, and a series of tremors that grew more common in the years before the eruption. They also had the confidence that comes from routine. When you live on a slope for decades, the slope is part of you. You know where the drainage runs. You know which wall faces the morning sun. You know the town so thoroughly that the idea of it ending is invisible.

I asked a local historian in Ercolano what the residents would have seen in the weeks leading up to the eruption. He described small springs that sometimes ran dry. Groundwater that shifted. Cracks that appeared in floors. A faint smell that might have been sulfur, or might have been something else. None of it added up to a warning, because none of it had ever added up to a warning before. The town was not given a timetable. It was given the quiet accumulation of strange details that people explain away.

The Roman writer Seneca described earthquakes as events that occur without warning and that strike even the most careful people. His point was not that earthquakes are unfair. His point was that they are unspeakably normal. They are part of a world that is always shifting. For the residents of Herculaneum, the tremors were a fact of life, not a prophecy.

I do not think this makes them foolish. I think it makes them human. Every day, we each make choices about which risks to notice and which to file away. We drive cars. We eat foods that might not be good for us. We live in places that have their own histories of disaster. The people of Herculaneum did not ignore a clear warning. They lived in a world where the warning system was not yet invented, in a town where nothing like this had ever happened, in a life that was going well. There is no version of that experience that makes the catastrophe obvious in advance.

Lucia told me that the site’s excavation reports contain hundreds of small repairs, patched walls, rebuilt floors, reset stones. The town was a living organism, always healing itself. Each repair was a small act of faith in the future. Each one said the same thing. We are still here. We plan to stay. The mountain did not argue. It simply waited.

The Shape of a Normal Day

On the morning of the eruption, the town of Herculaneum was doing what towns do. Bakers were firing ovens. Shopkeepers were opening shutters. Fountains were running. The bath complexes were being stoked for the day’s first visitors. Down at the waterfront, fishermen were checking nets and hauling boats onto the shore. Children were probably late for lessons. Someone was negotiating the price of fish. Someone else had a hangover and was drinking water from a clay cup.

We know these details not because anyone wrote them down, but because the town preserved them. Herculaneum’s ash deposit sealed the site so completely that food remained on tables, coins remained in cash boxes, tools remained on workbenches, and the contents of shops were left exactly where the owners had put them. It is the closest thing we have to a photograph of an ordinary Roman day.

There were baths in the town. The Central Baths and the Suburban Baths were both operational. The Suburban Baths, near the waterfront, had a mosaic floor and a sophisticated heating system that pushed warm air under the floor and through the walls. On a normal morning, a man might arrive at the baths with two slaves, undress in the changing room, and move through the sequence of hot, warm, and cold rooms. This was not a luxury for the very rich. It was a daily routine for anyone with a small amount of money. The baths were where business was done, where gossip spread, where the life of the town circulated.

There were bakeries, too. One of them, known today as the Bakery of the Kantharos, had mills for grinding grain and a wood-fired oven that could turn out dozens of loaves at a time. The millstones were turned by donkeys or by slaves, and the flour dusted everything in sight. The carbonized loaves found at Herculaneum still bear the marks of the baker’s stamp. That stamp was a brand, a promise, a piece of marketing in a town that cared about quality.

The streets of Herculaneum were compact and orderly. Unlike Pompeii, which sprawled across a large area, Herculaneum occupied a smallerr, dense footprint. That density is one reason the site is so well preserved. It is also one reason why escape was difficult. When the surges came, there was nowhere to run that was not still inside the town.

On the morning of the eruption, the dockworkers would have been busy even before the first ash fell. Herculaneum had a working waterfront. Cargo arrived and departed. Fishing boats went out at dawn. Nets were mended in the open air. There was a boathouse at the water’s edge, a vaulted structure with arches facing the sea, where vessels were stored during storms. It was here, in these boathouses, that so many of the town’s residents would later be found.

The day was ordinary. That is the hardest part of this chapter to write honestly. There were no premonitions in the air. There were no portents that only the wise could read. There was bread rising in ovens and fish on ice, if any Roman kitchen had ice. There were dinners being planned and deals being negotiated. The morning was not ominous. It was simply Tuesday. Or Wednesday. The date, oddly, is still debated, but the ordinariness is not.

Lucia keeps a photograph of the carbonized loaf in her office, taped to the wall above her desk. She says she looks at it when she needs to remember what the site is really about. “That loaf was going to be somebody’s lunch,” she says. “Not a sacrifice. Not an offering. A lunch. The town was not waiting for anything. It was just having a day.”

How We Know What We Know

The Herculaneum we can walk through today is not the same town the eruption buried. It is a partial reconstruction. Some of the town is still under the modern city of Ercolano, inaccessible and unknown. Some of it has been destroyed by centuries of digging. The part that remains is the part that happened to be preserved in the right way, and the story of how that part was found is almost as strange as the eruption itself.

The first excavators did not know what they were looking for. In 1709, a peasant digging a well struck a marble slab that turned out to be part of the ancient theater. Word reached the Austrian general who governed the region, and he bought the land and began tunneling. For decades, the work was done by teams of convicts and enslaved laborers, lowered into shafts and moving through underground passages by torchlight. They hauled out statues, marbles, bronzes, anything valuable. The early excavators were not archaeologists in any modern sense. They were treasure hunters with imperial permits.

The Bourbon kings expanded the tunnels in the 1730s and 1740s, and the excavation became a state project. What they found was spectacular. The Villa of the Papyri alone yielded more than a thousand carbonized scrolls and a collection of bronze and marble statues that would become the founding treasures of the Naples museum. But the method was brutal. Tunnels were dug without documentation. Finds were removed without context. Walls were cut through and floors were undermined. From the perspective of a modern archaeologist like Lucia, the Bourbon tunnels represent a tragedy almost as complete as the eruption.

The situation began to change in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Excavations were conducted more carefully, with documentation and stratigraphic analysis. In the 1920s, the Italian archaeologist Amedeo Maiuri began the systematic excavation of the site, and much of what we know today comes from his work. Then, in the 1960s and 1970s, modern stratigraphic methods were applied. Archaeologists began to read the ash layers as evidence, not just as overburden. They began to see the site as a complex record of a single moment, not as a treasure vault.

The most important shift came with the discovery of the boat houses in the 1980s. Excavators digging near the ancient waterfront found a row of vaulted chambers filled with skeletons. This was not a few scattered individuals. This was a crowd. Whole families, men, women, children, and even a dog. It was the kind of discovery that transforms a site, because it forces everyone to confront what the town really was. It was not a gallery of art. It was a community that died.

Today, the site is managed by the Parco Archeologico di Ercolano, and the excavation continues under controlled conditions. Modern archaeologists have tools their predecessors could not imagine. Ground-penetrating radar. 3D scanning. Chemical analysis of residues. Isotope studies of bone. But the most important tool is context. Every find is mapped, photographed, and recorded in relation to its surroundings. The goal is not to extract objects but to understand lives.

Lucia walked me through a section of the site near the Suburban Baths, and she pointed out something that most visitors miss. Where the old tunnels had cut through the ancient floors, there were gaps in the fabric of the town. You could see where the diggers had removed a mosaic or opened a wall in search of marble. Those gaps are permanent. The town will never be whole again. “We are not restoring Herculaneum,” Lucia said. “We are reading what is left and trying not to lose any more of it.”

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Pericles, the Parthenon and the Golden Age of Athens

An educator and author, Richard brings a range of passions to his work—from archaeology and history to ethics, Indigenous cultures, cinema, and the public humanities. After earning his doctorate from New York University, he taught at LMU Munich as a Fulbright fellow and went on to receive seven NEH study grants, most recently a fellowship in Asian Studies at the College of the Cross. His forthcoming book, Speaking of the Dead: Mummies & Mysteries of Ancient Egypt (Blydyn Square Books in Spring 2027), combines gripping discovery tales with essays and interviews. Richard has certifications in yoga, meditation, and life coaching. He is an advocate for animals, nature, and Indigenous communities. He also creates nature and travel videos with his wife, Renah, and child, Inanna, capturing their hiking and exploration of ancient places. 

In his just-released biography Pericles: Statesman, Demagogue, Eccentric, Cambridge scholar Dr. Paul Cartledge bypasses hero worship to present a brilliant, grounded and nuanced portrait of Athens’ iconic leader. The narrative zeroes in on core themes: a democratic system sustained by imperial wealth, Pericles’ persuasive rhetorical skills, and his famous relationship with Aspasia. Dr. Cartledge illustrates how the polarizing First Citizen evolved into a universal symbol of freedom — highlighting that democracy was as vulnerable during the Golden Age as it is now.

 

 

Q. Pericles used public funds and tribute from the Delian League to build the

Parthenon and employ thousands of artisans. Can you give us a brief tour and history

of the Parthenon? Is he wholly responsible for this and other building projects, or is it

better to say that he was the first citizen who simply wielded the most influence?

 

A. Let me rephrase your question slightly: it was not Pericles who all by himself

ever did anything politically. Rather, even if and when he was associated with or

was actively and personally promoting a project, the matter had first to pass

through the annually selected (by lot) democratic Council of 500 for

approval/rejection by the Athenian Assembly (of 6000 or so citizens attending

monthly – or more frequently in case of emergency). It is therefore preferable to

say that in this as in other key public matters Pericles as ‘first man’ (the phrase of

contemporary historian and admirer Thucydides) always wielded considerable, and

sometimes the greatest, influence. The Athens of the 440s BCE onward was a

demo-kratia (People Power) not a heno-kratia (power of one).

Yes, public funds and imperial Delian League tribute (more below) were indeed

applied – after public democratic approval and monitored by the relevant boards

answerable to the Council – to the construction of the Parthenon and other

elements of the massive public building programme that the Athenian People

undertook from the early 440s. But besides the sheer cash and the several

thousand artisans (and manual labourers, usually enslaved non-Greek males) that

building the Parthenon required, we must also factor in a team of structural

engineers and aesthetic specialists – two architects, and probably an overall

Design Consultant. The Parthenon (temple of Athena the Virgin, ‘Parthenon’ is a

modern name for the whole building) was the undoubted jewel in the crown of the

entire massive building programme. See more below for details.

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In front of the Acropolis, Athens. By Renah Marranca (June 2027)

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Q. What other building projects was Pericles responsible for?

 

A. Again, we must take ‘responsible’ in the sense outlined above. Apart from the

cult statue of the Parthenos Athena fashioned by Pericles’ friend master-sculptor

Pheidias, Pericles is specifically associated with just two major constructions. One

is the second of the ‘Long Walls’ built to link the central city of Athens with its

dockyard and commercial port town of Peiraieus. Among the great havoc wrought

by the invading Persians in 480 and 479 BCE were destroyed the inner circuit walls

surrounding the city’s central political and religious space. A great song and dance

was made by Pericles’ mentor Themistocles of getting that circuit rebuilt as soon

as humanly possible after the Persians’ defeat. Themistocles too had been the first

to advocate for the construction of defenses and dockyards in Peiraieus. Pericles

therefore put the two together by advocating for the building of a second wall from

Athens to Peiraieus so as to turn the city of Athens in effect into an island – so long

as the Athenian navy ruled the sea, as it did in the 440s when the Middle Long Wall

to Peiraieus was built and from then until the last decade of the fifth century.

Finally, Pericles was specially associated with and clearly had a special affinity for

a brand new Singing Hall – Odeion in Greek (Odeum in Latin transliteration). Unlike

the Parthenon, however, almost nothing of it remains to this day. It’s estimated to

have had an orthogonal footprint of some 4,000 square metres, and to have

contained perhaps as many as 90 stone columns supporting a pyramidal roof

composed of ship timbers captured from the Persians after the 480 Battle of

Salamis. It lay adjacent to the Theatre of Dionysus, which explains one of its

purposes, namely to stage the taster demonstrations of the plays that were shortly

to be performed at the annual Great City Dionysia play festival. Another of its

functions was to be the venue for the competitive inter-tribal performance of a

special Dionysiac hymn called dithyramb involving annually 5,000 choristers! One

of Pericles’ special Athenian friends and advisers was musicologist Damon. Clearly

for Pericles music was not just an idle, spare-time private amusement or relaxation

but a deeply serious political business. Not incidentally, our word ‘music’ comes

from the ancient Greek mousikē, meaning all the arts performed under the auspices

of the Nine (divine) Muses.

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Ruins of Pericles’ Odeon. George E. Koronaios, CC BY-SA 2.0, Wikimedia Commons

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Q. Can you tell us about Pericles’ funding of and interest in theater? In his time,

attending the theater to watch tragedies and comedies was considered a binding civic

duty where citizens confronted major moral and political issues. Could modern society

use more of this type of civic responsibility?

 

A. Athens being a democracy combined public indirect taxation (sales taxes, court

fees and fines, harbour dues etc etc) with an enlightened system of private and

personal taxation imposed and enforced by the state as such on the super-rich

class (both citizen and non-citizen). The technical term was leitourgia (whence our

English word ‘liturgy’, though we give it a quite different meaning), literally ‘work’ or

‘a work for the People’ (leōs, also laos). There were two kinds of Athenian

democratic liturgies: military and festival/religious. A military liturgy meant funding

and in principle captaining a state-owned trireme warship for one year – seeing

that the equipment was kept shipshape and that the crews of 170 oarsmen plus

supernumeraries were paid as and when they were required to serve, usually for a

maximum of 6 months in a year. There were over one hundred annual festival

liturgies, paid to fund religious events, including animal-sacrifices, libations,

processions and the like. It was one of the latter kind of liturgy, called a choregia,

that brings Pericles first, almost literally, onto the Athenian stage.

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Theater of Dionysus, south slope of the Acropolis. Nicholas Hartmann, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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From about 500 BCE the Athenian state held the Great or City Dionysia, an annual

festival of theatrical plays to honour a particular local version of the universal

Greek wine-god and shape-shifter Dionysus. Choice of the plays to be performed

competitively – at first three tragedies and an accompanying satyr-drama by three

rival poet-playwright-choreographer-composers, later also between three and five

comedies by specialist comic playwrights – rested with the annually selected (by

lot) official known simply as ‘the Archon’ (the ruler) who gave his name to the

official Athenian year. For 473/2, Archon Menon selected among others Aeschylus

(a no-brainer, he was then the greatest tragedian of all) and for his choregic

liturgist a 22/23-year-old Pericles… Why Pericles, we don’t actually know – though

my hunch is that a young and thrusting Pericles actually volunteered because he

wished to be associated with Aeschylus and, possibly, also because he knew that

among his four plays Aeschylus was including one called Persians about the Battle

of Salamis that had been won mainly by the Athenian navy under Themistocles. A

play that would likely be wholly congenial to Pericles’ own political outlook as a

democrat.

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Statue of Dionysus, 4th Century Athens. George E. Koronaios, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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Like most plays, it took its title from the identity of the 12 or 15 chorus members,

all adult male Athenian citizens who in this case would be impersonating members

of the defeated Persian people – defeated and deeply mourning their side’s losses,

but also being heavily reminded why precisely the Athenians had won: because

they were democrats, whereas the benighted Persians laboured under the quasi-

tyrannical autocratic regime of an unelected, non-responsible hereditary monarch.

It’s quite possible of course that apart from its politics Pericles simply loved the

play as such – and the other two tragedies and the accompanying, light-relief satyr-

drama likewise. We simply don’t know. The Muse of Tragedy was Melpomene,

whose name comes from a Greek word signifying dance and song. The music –

composed by Aeschylus, played on a single aulos (a kind of oboe) and danced to by

the chorus – was an absolutely key part of any Athenian tragedy or satyr-drama,

and Pericles was we know especially keen on music (see above).

One feature of Persians was, however, almost unique. It was almost the only – and

certainly the last – tragedy of its time to be situated in real, indeed near-

contemporary historical time, as opposed to in the dim, distant past of divine and

heroic myth and legend. Consider, for instance, Aeschylus’ 458 BCE suite of

tragedies known collectively as the Oresteia (‘things to do with Orestes’, son – and

killer – of his mother Clytemnestra), the sole extant instance

of a genuine, developmentally organized, thematically interrelated trilogy. That was

set not only in another time but also mostly in another, non-Athenian place. Yet the

issues at stake were as contemporary and as relevant to its original, mostly

Athenian citizen audience of 15,000 or so (staggeringly, almost all ancient Greek

plays were only ever staged just the once…) as they could possibly be: divine as

opposed to human justice, the moral culpability/justifiability of not just homicide

but patricide, and the proper public or private roles of women/wives as opposed to

those of their menfolk/husbands.

It’s been well said that one function, maybe even purpose, of Athenian tragic

theatre – not so much of comedy – was to set at risk, to make the audience deeply

question their normally taken-for-granted everyday moral, political, familial and

above all religious beliefs and norms. That would have been grist to the mill of an

intellectual such as Pericles, less comfortable perhaps let alone comforting to

ordinary everyday male citizens. (It’s thought that probably no female Athenian

citizens were permitted to attend the theatre, although they had roles to play,

including important ones, in other Dionysiac rituals both public and especially

private.)

It’s a separate question whether modern – western? – societies could use more of

an art form such as this, which by definition raises questions of civic responsibility.

I personally think they could, but there are a couple of necessary corollaries. How best

(most efficiently) or most appropriately to fund it? We in the UK have a ‘Royal

National Theatre’ which rightly receives funding from centrally/nationally collected

taxed income. There is also – the great majority – ‘commercial’ theatre privately

funded by ‘angels’ (our nearest equivalent to Athenian liturgists) and by paying

audience members. But what we have no equivalent of is the notion that the very

action of theatre-going is/should be a politically democratic/religiously collective

and communal act. It’s that difference which explains why the Athenians were

prepared to set aside a ‘hardship fund’ to enable the poorest citizens to attend the

play-festivals in the Theatre of Dionysus.

 

Q. The magnificent sculptures and temples built under Pericles were designed to

showcase Athenian superiority and imperial power. Was that the major reason, or was

it equally intended to beautify the city and elevate the citizens; souls? Did he and the

Athenians hold such a holistic view?

 

A. I’ll let ‘under’ Pericles pass! There were indeed many magnificent sculptures and

temples built on his watch, both on and beneath the Acropolis and indeed

elsewhere outside Athens within the territory of the Athenian state. Let me mention

just the Hephaesteion devoted to Olympian master-craftsman god Hephaestus.

That still stands in a remarkably good state of preservation overlooking Athens’

(Greek) Agora or City/Market Centre.

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Temple of Hephaestus. M(e)ister Eiskalt, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

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‘Imperial’ power raises the hot issue of the medium whereby democratic Athens

expressed its sense of superiority and power but also its protective authority

throughout the Aegean Greek world toward Crete in the south, and toward the

Hellespont (Dardanelles) and Black Sea in the north. We call it ‘the Athenian

empire’, though strictly ancient Greek doesn’t have an exclusive term for ‘empire’ (a

word we derive from Latin). Formally, the Delian League was an offensive and

defensive military alliance, ‘the Athenians and the (upwards of 200) allies’, formed

in the early 470s on the island of Delos both to exact reprisals from the Persians

and to liberate and keep permanently liberated Greek cities that down to 479 had

been subjects of the mighty Persian empire (stretching way east in Asia as far as

Afghanistan and Pakistan and into north Africa via Egypt).

Pericles – in the famous Funeral Speech that Thucydides wrote a version of –

claimed that we Athenians ‘love Beauty (or beautiful things) but without being soft,

unmanly about it’. What I think he meant was that for the Athenians aesthetic

indulgence didn’t lead to military weakness. Without question, beauty (kallos) was a

dominant criterion of ordinary Athenians’ worldview. Without question some of the

most beautiful artefacts known to man were crafted in the second half of the fifth

century BCE in Athens.

 

Q. The architects of the Parthenon used sophisticated optical illusions, like curving the

floor foundation and leaning columns inward, to make the building look perfect

to the human eye. Can you tell us about this idealized perfection, and how it

connects to the classical concept of the Golden Ratio?

 

A. I am no Hippocrates, Euclid, Archimedes or Hypatia – brilliant pioneering ancient

Greek mathematicians, all – indeed, I am no mathematikos whatsoever, so I defer

to someone (Gary Meisner) who persuades me that he is:

https://www.goldennumber.net/parthenon-golden-ratio-design/ . If he’s right, the

Parthenon instantiates not just one but a veritable blizzard of golden ratios: in its

entablature, its columns and intercolumniation, its overall façade, its floor plan, and

– not least – its interior chamber, the part of the building that actually was called

‘Parthenon’ because it housed the gold-and-ivory cult-statue of the Parthenos.

Leaving aside the exact(ing)ly mathematical, even I understand that the columns

were deliberately carved so as to swell towards their middle (entasis), since by an

optical illusion they would then look to the naked eye straight. Likewise the

positioning of the columns in relation to each other, actually just out of true but

such as to appear not to lean toward each other, and so on and so forth. The whole

of course would also originally have been enhanced – to Athenian Greek ways of

thinking and seeing – by the addition of encaustic paint in bright hues.

One final point: a mathēma in ancient Greek meant a lesson, literally something

taught – in any subject, in principle. For ancient Greeks so great was the

architectonic authority of mathematics that teaching that became THE lesson,

underlying or overarching all others. Plato’s Academy is said, perhaps apocryphally,

to have had a notice posted at its entrance that read: ‘the mathematically illiterate

are barred’!

 

Q. Is there a dark side to these achievements, such as using confiscated money from

the Delian League or relying on enslaved labor? How do modern historians balance a

deep appreciation for this artistic beauty with the ethical and human cost of its

creation?

 

A. After shining light comes … yes, darkness, indeed, almost inevitably so.

Probably very few if any women either free or enslaved were directly involved at

any stage in the Parthenon’s creation – in its initial conception as such, its

theoretical and practical configuration, let alone its physical construction. And yet

the chief religious official who was one of the very few people to enter the building

regularly as part of their day-to-day ‘job’ was a … woman, a priestess, drawn from

an ancient aristocratic family, to which this prized public-political role fell by right

of tradition and heredity – not in a democratic way at all.

I begin with her, because a longstanding – and sort-of justified – accusation

leveled against the supposedly egalitarian Athenian democracy was that actually it

was just a glorified men’s club. Why, even the most elite women of the free citizen

class – the wife of a Pericles, say – were but second-class citizens compared to

even the humblest, poorest, but still empowered male citizens. True, but, hang on,

how many societies in the world equally empowered their womenfolk politically

speaking before the … late 19th century CE/AD?

Turning to the other part of the modern or contemporary anti-Athenian accusation:

what about all those thousands, perhaps at the time of the Parthenon’s

construction over 100,000, of enslaved male and female persons, both under-age

and adult, mostly non-Athenian and indeed non-Greek, held in either public

collective or private individual servitude, many of whom worked – and died –

extracting the silver that financed the fleet and much else? No contest, no

argument. Whatever the arguable positive individual or collective outcomes directly

or indirectly consequential upon that enslavement, the very enslavement itself was

surely morally wrong or indeed inexcusable.

Yes, certainly, and even the slaveholding Greeks themselves had openly

acknowledged that lamentable fact from their very first works of ‘national’ written

literature. Both the Iliad and the Odyssey contain a line to the effect that, when a

person is enslaved (not born a slave but having been free is later enslaved), he or

she is automatically deprived of half their human worth or virtue. Yet enslavement

not only increased quantitatively, but also got qualitatively worse, from about 600

BCE, when Greeks including the Athenians invented its nastiest possible form,

chattel slavery. Human beings were now systematically deprived of their humanity

and depersonalized into becoming a mere chattel, a possession, a ‘good’ to be

traded in and profited from. Almost all the male enslaved persons who did one or

another job on the Parthenon, from the most brute physical labour to the subtlest of

artistic craftsmanship, was a chattel slave of someone or somebody, whether

public (the Athenian state) or (mostly) private.

The achievement of artistic beauty therefore in fifth-century Athens must indeed be

set against its ethical and human cost, a very difficult balance-sheet to draw up

altogether. I once wrote a paper arguing in essence that we (western civilization)

‘owe’ a very deep cultural debt to the slaves of ancient Greece, for without them –

no (or a very different sort of) Parthenon, no (or a very different sort of) democracy,

among much else that we or some of us treasure to this day.

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Bust of Pericles, Berlin. Sailko, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

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Q. Pericles said that Athens was an education to all Greece because of its freedom,

theater, science, arts, etc. Is a thriving, diverse arts scene a necessary requirement for

a healthy democracy then and now?

 

A. Your remaining three questions all contain, crucially, a contemporary, pragmatic

dimension. I began when discussing above Pericles and specifically theatre to

address the issue of the significance or viability of that one art-form as both a

vector and a challenger of conventional, normative societal values. Before

broadening out to the ‘arts scene’ as a whole (concert halls, art galleries, museums,

street art), let me first pick up on that phrase you quote from a passage in the

famous Funeral Speech attributed to Pericles, Thucydides Book 2 chapter 41.

The word translated ‘education’ is here in the original paideusis, not the ‘usual’

Greek word paideia. That choice may be due merely to a desire for stylistic

variation, but I don’t think so. Paideia literally means a concern of/for paides,

children both male and female. As a matter of fact, absolutely none of the 1000 or

so Greek cities, including Athens, except for Sparta had a system of publicly

imposed and controlled education from childhood continuously through to

adulthood; and the Spartan system being unique acquired a unique name too. Such

formal education as there was in democratic Athens was private and had to be paid

for and could be afforded only by parents of the wealth of Pericles’. That included

teaching/training in literacy, numeracy and, not least, musical competence in both

playing and singing. Otherwise education in a Greek city and especially a

democratic one like Athens was more in the nature of what the Germans call

Bildung, formation, in the sense that attending a public festival or a musical or

dramatic performance or undergoing military training could be called ‘educational’.

And that’s, I think where Pericles’ (if it really was his) expression paideusis comes

in.

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Kleroterion (accepted tokens to randomly select citizens for office). Agora Museum, Athens. Sharon Mollerus, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons

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What I believe he had in mind was the inculcation by public social means of a

communal, collective spirit. It may come as a surprise, even a shock, for us to be

told that Greeks, even intellectual Greeks, thought the political constitution of a city

was its ‘life’ or ‘soul’. Perhaps Americans do think of their Constitution, especially

the original 1777 version, in that quasi-spiritual way. But probably only they. So,

what Pericles or ‘Pericles’ surely had in mind was the demokratia of his native city

– uniquely developed, one that had generated both the highest of high culture and

at the same time the greatest naval power then known to Greeks. It was that high

culture – as much as political rules and regulations – that he was advocating as a

model for ‘all Hellas’, for the entire Greek world that then embraced most of the

Mediterranean and Black Seas: a culture founded upon common language and

religious beliefs and practices and a largely fictional common kinship but including

also respect for the mass, the ordinary people, le menu peuple, as the French say.

 

Q. Many modern democratic institutions—such as the U.S. Supreme Court, the British

Museum, and major financial buildings—mimic the Classical architectural style of

Periclean Athens. Why do modern states continue to look back to ancient Athenian

design to represent law and government?

 

A. I don’t think it’s so much the case that modern/contemporary states as such look

back in the way that you suggest they do. Rather, when the modern revolutionary

states of America and then France came into being in the late 18th century, the

aesthetic design movement known as the Neoclassical was beginning to flood the

architectural design market as it were. A movement that continued into the 19th

century of course. And as well as for buildings representing law and government

the Neoclassical was preferred also for a ‘Museum’ (originally Mouseion, shrine of

the Muses) such as the British Museum you reference, founded in 1753. You also

mention major financial buildings. I offer you the original Bank of Ireland building

dated 1779, which can also be labelled ‘Palladian’ after the great Italian

neoclassicist Andrea Palladio.

However – and it’s quite a big ‘however’ – a distinction must be drawn between

Greek neoclassical and Roman neoclassical, and Palladio belonged firmly to the

latter not the former, drawing his inspiration not from the Parthenon of Callicrates

and Ictinus but from the ideal pattern books of the Roman Vitruvius’ 10-book work

‘On Architectura’ (a Latin word not directly borrowed from but inspired by the

Greek). That reminds us too that, although some of the neoclassical architectural

movement certainly was ancient Greek-inspired, in the 18th and early 19th centuries

the democracy of Pericles was widely held in grave disrepute in the highest

political quarters as being little better than organized mob-rule. Far better in more

conservative eyes were the organized (oligarchic) ‘freedom and liberty’ enshrined

in the Roman governing Senate – hence that American borrowing, along with

‘Capitol’ (not Acropolis). May I end by suggesting that a little more ancient Athens

and a little less ancient Rome might not come amiss, abroad as well as at home,

right now?

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Archaeological working field, Acropolis of Athens. macrolepis, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

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Q. Can you tell us about recent excavations and archaeological work being done on

the Parthenon, Acropolis, and Agora? Which structures are in the best shape, and

which require the most preservation? What are your primary concerns regarding

modern threats like climate change, pollution, and tourist overload?

 

A. This is a big ask, but thankfully a little bit restricted in one way, namely that two

of those three items fall under the remit of the Greek (Hellenic) Archaeological

Service, a national institution that has flourished since soon after the foundation of

the modern Greek state in the 1830s. Parthenon: in 1970 it was declared a UNESCO

World Heritage site, under the strictest conditions of preservation, restoration and

curation.

The latest applied-scientific, often literally cutting-edge research and

experimental archaeology are conducted physically on and in the building on a

continuing, everyday (barring unsuitable weather conditions) basis. Acropolis: the

Parthenon is pretty much what everyone first sees and wants to see as they glance

up to or laboriously ascend to the High City, and what they want to see again from

the top floor of the new (since 2009) Acropolis Museum. But there’s a great deal

more to the Acropolis than just that. On the eastern plateau and the north slope

previously hidden pathways have recently been opened up to the general public, so

that it’s possible now for them to visit the absolutely vital natural spring called

Clepsydra (literally ‘Water-Concealer’) and several sacred caves. More

conventionally, the late Bronze Age – Mycenaean or ‘Cyclopean’ – masonry walling

on the west side has also been undergoing recent restoration.

Finally, the Agora (more precisely the Greek Agora, to distinguish it from the later

‘Roman’ Agora): unlike for the Acropolis, the excavation and conservation and

curation permits for work in this must-visit 12-hectare (30-acre) site below the

Acropolis belong to the privately owned American School of Classical Studies at

Athens. The Agora was both a sacred and a secular commercial space, the beating

heart of everyday Athenian social intercourse. The ASCSA has been working there

since the 1930s, greatly assisted by the facilities of their Rockefeller-funded Agora

Museum (part open to the public, beautifully displayed). Recent excavation work by

the School has included digging right down to pre-Classical, late Bronze Age layers.

where a new cemetery has been identified. More conventional targeted work has

recently re-addressed the site of the Stoa Poikile (Painted Stoa), which was first

unearthed, north of the Peiraieus to Kephisia electric railway in 1981, when I was

not long into my posts as a lecturer in the venerable Faculty of Classics at

Cambridge University and a Fellow of the even more venerable Clare College (this

year celebrating our 700th anniversary).

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Clare Hall (now Clare College), Cambridge University. Wikimedia Commons

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Cover Image, Top: Bust of Pericles. Jastrow (2006), Vatican Museums Collection, Public Domain, Wikimedia Commons

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Early Mycenaean burials were tableaus of the dead meant for the living

Golden treasures gleam around a king armed with gold and ivory swords. He is covered in jewels and crowned with a boar’s-tusk helmet. His queen is at his side, glittering in precious jewels. The adolescent princess who might have been their daughter is bedecked with a necklace of gold rosettes at the height of their bloom. As much as they sound like images painted onto a mural or actors posing for a tableau, these royals appear in an unexpected context. They have instead been laid—and laden with riches and ornaments—in their graves. 

Many burials in antiquity sent the dead to the afterlife with troves of priceless artifacts like these early Mycenaean elites. The difference is that while most graves were filled and tombs were shut, these bodies interred from between 1700 and 1400 BCE were arranged with their personal effects to create a postmortem work of art. They were meant to merge objects with the body in death, more than memento mori, but the last memories those close to them would have before they were lowered into the earth. Archaeologist Rachel Emma Philips is convinced these stunning visuals conveyed more than status. She reexamined the graves in the tomb known as Dendra tholos at Midea in southern Peloponesse, Greece, an entire century after archaeologist Axel Persson and his research team unearthed and possibly misunderstood them.

Persson thought that the artistic arrangements of the bodies with their jewelry, weapons, and other possessions were only meant for mourners to view as they were carried towards the tomb. The bodies would then be immediately taken down into their grave pits and buried. As for the valuables that would remain hidden for thousands of years, the thinking behind this was that confining those objects to the tomb would emphasize how the social standing of the deceased was so high, nobody else could have them in their possession. He also assumed them to be members of the royal family of Midea, though that has been questioned. Phillips argued that these scenes were purposely designed to be viewed for a slightly longer period of time, more like a wake that culminates in a funeral. They needed to leave a lasting impression.

“I…advocate for an artistic approach to burial, centered around the twin concepts of curation and aesthetics, to show that within the early Mycenaean mortuary sphere, the act of deposition created hybrid artworks that combined the corpse with other materials and so mediated the dead through these materials,” she said in a study recently published in Cambridge Archaeological Journal.

This is not to say there were no tears in grief. Seeing bodies turned into surreal visions somewhere between life and afterlife must have had an intense visual and sensory impact on mourners. Phillips’ interpretation is also not without controversy, especially since she acknowledges most archaeologists would probably hesitate to support a theory with the “aestheticization of a putrefied corpse” that strayed from such elaborate burials being staged to parade the wealthy elite. She alternatively sees this mortuary tradition as a use of materials such as gold and silver to embellish the dead in such a way that the materials and body become one, like vessels, ornaments, and swords forming a silhouette of the king’s body to leave behind a vague image of him long after his earthly remains have decomposed. 

Even Persson could not help but observe how densely covered in objects these bodies were, so much so that he could barely get a glimpse of the bones. Beyond that, Phillips wonders why certain materials were preferred. For what reason had metal vessels been chosen over ceramic vessels that were imported and considered more exotic and rare? It might have been that the visual effect held more significance than their value. They seem to show an interest in otherworldly shine, which extends to a wooden box on the body of the king, whose bronze ornaments were meant to reflect sunlight. Gold was the most preferred metal among these artifacts. Silver cups found with the female burials who are supposedly a queen and a princess have gold interiors, and one was found inlaid with gold. These were ancient special effects.

The boar’s tusk helmet on the male burial is especially significant. It is not carved from tusk, but reimagined in glass, a symbol of military prowess, meaning the presumed king may have been a warrior king or not a king at all, but a soldier fallen in battle. This helmet does more than reinforce the identity of a warrior. It literally reconstructs him with materials that will not decay, an immortal transformation. Anything that catches this much light was meant to be seen, a silent spectacle mourners would behold as his body was lowered into the grave. How the helmet is positioned is also important. Phillips thinks it purposely covered the parts of the face that would be most visible for mourners watching from above. Illuminated by torchlight, the helmet and his other weapons and ornaments could be seen through the shadows.

“[This interpretation] is an approach that locates creative action in the combination and deposition of specific objects with the dead,” she said, adding that “In its focus on the concentration of artistic action in the mortuary sphere…it has also revealed the intrinsic connection between art and emotion, and between death and creation, across time and space.”

Cover Image, Top Left: Dendra, Argolis, Greece: Tholos tomb of the mycenaean cementary.  Schuppi, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

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Sipontum, the Archaeological Site and Invisible Port City of Ancient Daunia

There is a road in northern Puglia that traverses through time without knowing it. The SS89 Garganica—the provincial highway that skirts the Adriatic coast between the city of Foggia and the promontory of the Gargano—cuts through the flat, wheat-gilded plain south of Manfredonia on a trajectory that has puzzled attentive travellers for generations. 

The road does not conform to the irregular logic of an Italian rural highway, whose characteristic waywardness reflects centuries of negotiation between topography, field boundaries, and village-to-village necessity. It is, instead, arrow-straight: seventeen hundred years of agricultural reorganization, road maintenance, and urban drift have failed to deflect it from a line first drawn in the second century BCE by the surveyors of a Roman colony.

That line is the decumanus maximus of ancient Sipontum—the great east-west axis around which one of the oldest Roman maritime colonies in the Italian peninsula was organized. And Sipontum itself, the city through which that road once ran, lies largely invisible beneath the soils that the Carapelle and Cervaro rivers have deposited over fifteen centuries of abandonment. 

Drive the SS89 between the blue glitter of the Adriatic and the fields of Puglia tableland (Tavoliere delle Puglie), and you are driving through a Roman city: its street grid beneath your wheels, its forum somewhere to the left, its port now a buried lagoon sealed under cereal fields. The modern visitor, unless forewarned, would have no idea.

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Sipontum occupies a singular and under-appreciated position within the archaeology of ancient Italy: unlike Pompeii, whose catastrophic burial has made it a global icon, Sipontum’s invisibility is a product of a different and in many ways more interesting process. 

Not sudden burial, but centuries of progressive coastal transformation, lagoonal silting, medieval continuity, and, ultimately, deliberate urban relocation. The ancient city was not destroyed but dissolved—slowly, by water, malaria, and geomorphological change—and then superseded by a new foundation planted three kilometers to the northwest by its last medieval lord.

There exists, to this author’s knowledge, no comprehensive synthesis of Sipontum’s long history in the English language: the Encyclopaedia Britannica dismisses it in two lines as a city abandoned due to the encroachment of lagoons. The Princeton Encyclopedia of Classical Sites offers a slightly fuller treatment, but one now several decades old and substantially bypassed by subsequent research. 

This article aims to fill that gap—to offer, for an international readership, the kind of longue durée account that Sipontum’s extraordinary historical depth, and the quality of the research now being conducted there, demands.

A Landscape before the City: Palaeogeography and the Lost Lagoon

Puglia Tableland of Province of Foggia. (CREDITS: MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO NAZIONALE E CASTELLO DI MANFREDONIA)

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To understand Sipontum, one must first understand a landscape that no longer exists: the coastal plain south of modern Manfredonia—ancient Sipontum’s immediate hinterland—is today an open agricultural patchwork of drained marsh, cereal fields, and wetland remnants preserved within the Oasi Naturalistica of Lago Salso. 

In the Bronze Age and well into the Iron Age, this landscape was fundamentally different: a dynamic coastal system of barrier beaches, brackish lagoons, and tidal inlets, in which low sandy islands separated from the open Adriatic by a shifting sandbar offered elevated and defensible terrain for settlement. 

The ancient lagoon of Sipontum—known in antiquity as the sinus Uriensis, or associated with the broader lacustrine system of Lago Salpi to the south—has been the subject of major geomorphological research in recent decades, producing a refined picture of its Holocene evolution indispensable for interpreting the city’s history.

Research by Vincenzo De Santis, Marcello Caldara, and their collaborators at the University of Bari, drawing on sediment coring, radiocarbon dating, and GIS-based coastal reconstruction, has established that the lagoon sheltering the ancient port of Sipontum underwent progressive infilling from the late Roman period onwards, driven by a combination of deltaic progradation from the Carapelle and Cervaro rivers, long-term sea-level change, and anthropogenic pressure from agricultural drainage (De Santis, Caldara et al. 2018). 

The result was the gradual transformation of an open, navigable harbor system into the shallow, malarial marshland that medieval and early modern sources describe with such consistent dread. What Cassiodorus, writing in the sixth century CE, could still identify as a functioning port capable of receiving grain shipments was, by the twelfth century, a pestilential swamp.

The recovery of this lost landscape is not merely an antiquarian exercise but an essential precondition for understanding why Sipontum was where it was, why it mattered as much as it did for as long as it did, and why—in the end—it could not be saved. Puglia Tableland, of which this coastal margin forms the southeastern edge, is one of the oldest farmed landscapes in Europe. 

Its Neolithic enclosures, visible in aerial photography as the ghost circuits of ditched villages, document the arrival of sedentary agriculture in the western Mediterranean in the seventh and sixth millennia BCE—by the Bronze Age. 

It is the period from which the earliest traces of occupation on the Sipontum terrace are now attested, recovered through systematic survey of the coastal plain of the Candelaro and Cervaro rivers—the lagoonal zone south of the Gargano had already become a node of human activity whose deep roots would feed, through many transformations, the Roman city that eventually grew from it.

Daunian Roots and the Myth of Diomedes

Diomedes’ Sipontum foundation myth. (CREDITS: MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO NAZIONALE E CASTELLO DI MANFREDONIA)

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Long before Roman surveyors drove their measurement poles into the Puglia-based plain, the territory of Sipontum was Daunian country. The Daunians—one of the ancient Italic peoples whose Iron Age and Archaic civilization constitutes one of the most visually distinctive cultures in pre-Roman Italy—inhabited Puglia Tableland and its coastal margins in a network of hilltop and lagoonal settlements whose principal centers of power included the great oppida of Arpi, Salapia, Canusium, and Herdonia. 

Their material culture is immediately recognizable: the extraordinary painted sub-Geometric and Geometric pottery, the carved limestone funerary stelae—the celebrated stele daunie, those haunting images of warriors, supernatural beings, and aristocratic feasting that stand among the masterpieces of Italian pre-Roman art—and the elaborate warrior aristocracies whose grave goods bespeak a world of competitive display and heroic self-fashioning.

At Sipontum, the Daunian presence is attested archaeologically through ceramic sequences and surface evidence recovered by survey work in the immediate hinterland. The strategic value of the position—elevated slightly above the surrounding plain, sheltered by the lagoon, commanding the coastal route between the Gargano promontory and the Adriatic Sea.

It would have been as apparent to a Daunian community navigating the politics of Puglia Tableland as to the Roman colonial commission that chose it for a maritime colony in 194 BCE. Myth, characteristically, filled the gaps of historical record: ancient tradition associated the foundation of Sipontum with Diomedes of Argos—the Greek hero of the Trojan War who, in the epic mythology of the Adriatic coast, was held to have wandered the Italian south after the fall of Troy, founding cities and establishing cults as he journeyed. 

Strabo, in his description of the Daunian coast (VI.3.9), notes the tradition of Diomedes’ presence in the region while the coastal waters of the Gargano were, in antiquity, called the Lacus Diomedeae, and a small island offshore bore his name. 

Whether Diomedes ‘founded’ anything in a historical sense is, of course, irrelevant: the persistence of the tradition reflects the deep Greek cultural penetration of the Adriatic coast through Tarentine and Epirotic commercial networks, and the desire of local elites—Daunian and later Roman—to furnish their city with a genealogy sufficiently heroic to compete with the mythological pedigrees of the great southern colonies.

History makes a fleeting but significant appearance in the Sipontum record in the late fourth century BCE, when the city was seized by Alexander, King of Epirus—the uncle of Alexander the Great, who had crossed to Italy at the invitation of the Tarentines to assist them against the Bruttians and Lucanians. 

Livy records that Alexander the Molossian took Sipontum among the cities he captured during his Italian campaigns (c. 334–330 BCE), a detail that places the pre-Roman city squarely within the volatile sphere of interstate politics that would, within two generations, draw Rome itself into the complex balance of power in Magna Graecia.

The Roman Colony of 194 BCE: Urbanism on the Adriatic Frontier

Foggia and Bari’s 2023 conference about the recent developments of Sipontum. (CREDITS: UNIVERSITA’ DI FOGGIA & BARI)

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The formal entry of Sipontum into Roman history as a colonia maritima—a maritime colony—is recorded by Livy under the year 194 BCE (XXXIV.45), in a list that also includes the Tyrrhenian foundations of Salernum (modern-day Salerno) and Buxentum (modern-day Policastro Bussentino): maritime colonies were a distinctive instrument of Roman colonial policy—smaller than the great coloniae Latinae of the interior, they were planted at strategic coastal points to provide a network of loyal Roman presence along the peninsula’s shores, functioning simultaneously as administrative outposts, commercial hubs, and elements of a coastal defense system.

The choice of Sipontum for this role was determined by the same geographical logic that had made the site attractive to its Daunian predecessors: its lagoonal harbor, its position on the coastal route north to the Gargano, and its accessibility from the road system of the interior Puglia Tableland: the colony was organized on the standard orthogonal grid of Roman urban planning.

Its insulae—city blocks—measured on the basis of the actus as the unit of survey, its decumanus maximus defining the principal east-west axis around which the city’s commercial, civic, and sacred spaces were disposed, and the survival of the decumanus maximus alignment in the modern SS89 Garganica—a continuity of urban geometry across twenty-two centuries—is among the most vivid demonstrations of the persistence of Roman landscape ordering in the Italian south.

Recent excavations, conducted from 2021 to 2025 under the joint scientific direction of Roberto Goffredo, Maria Turchiano, and Giuliano Volpe for the Universities of Bari and Foggia as part of the research program formally entitled Sipontum: Archeologia Globale di una Città Portuale (Sipontum: The Global Archaeology of a Port City), have substantially extended the material record of Roman Sipontum. 

The campaign of 2023 was particularly significant as excavations in the city’s western sector brought to light a substantial stretch of the ancient defensive curtain wall together with a quadrangular tower dateable to the second century BCE, whose opus incertum masonry belongs to the earliest phase of the colonial foundation (Goffredo, Turchiano, Volpe 2023). The discovery confirmed that Sipontum was provided, from its earliest decades, with a defensive circuit comparable in ambition to those documented at other Adriatic colonial foundations of the Republican period.

The forum complex—the civic and commercial heart of any Roman city—has not yet been fully excavated, but its probable location within the area immediately south of the modern archaeological park is suggested by surface finds and geophysical survey data. Epigraphic material, though sparse, attests the standard institutional apparatus of a Roman municipium.

Elected magistrates (duoviri, aediles), a local senate (ordo decurionum), and building dedications that anchor the city’s civic life to the larger cultural world of Roman Italy. A small amphitheatre—its cavea and arena walls buried beneath later agricultural structures—awaits systematic excavation, already yielding, in its upper fill layers, evidence of the progressive domestication of public space that characterizes urban shrinkage across the late antique west.

Port, Grain, and Empire: The Economy of Sipontum

The economic identity of Sipontum was, from its colonial foundation through the late antique period, inseparable from its port. The city sat at the intersection of two great axes of movement: the coastal road linking it to the Adriatic network of harbors from Brindisi to Ancona, and the inland road system connecting it, via the Via Aurelia Aeclanensis, to Herdonia on the Via Traiana, and beyond to the Via Appia. This double connectivity—maritime and terrestrial—made Sipontum a natural transshipment point for the agricultural production of Puglia Tableland: the wheat surplus of one of the most productive cereal plains in Italy moved through Sipontum’s harbor into the amphora-laden vessels of the Adriatic trade.

The evidence for this function becomes most explicit in the written sources of late antiquity. Cassiodorus, the minister of the Ostrogothic king Theodoric and one of the most prolific administrators of the sixth century CE, includes Sipontum in his Variae (c. 537 CE) as a functioning port receiving grain shipments—a detail of enormous significance for the city’s late antique biography. 

At a time when much of Roman Italy was experiencing urban contraction and infrastructural decay, Sipontum retained sufficient maritime capacity to operate within the redistributive grain economy of the Ostrogothic state. Procopius, the Greek historian of Justinian’s wars against the Goths, provided a complementary military picture. 

Sipontum appears in his De Bello Gothico as a contested strategic point during the Byzantine reconquest of Italy (535–554 CE), its coastal position rendering it significant in the logistical calculations of a war fought largely through the control of ports and supply routes.

The archaeological correlation of this economic vitality is now emerging from the ongoing research program: geophysical prospections and targeted excavation in the eastern sectors of the city have identified structures consistent with horrea—the great cellular grain warehouses whose regular plan is one of the most recognizable building types in Roman commercial urbanism.

East of the former railway line that bisects the archaeological area: the potential identification of these structures, still awaiting full excavation, promises to provide the material evidence for the grain transshipment economy that the literary sources describe. 

Maritime villa structures and productive suburban activities documented in the city’s coastal margins add further texture to a picture of Sipontum as a commercially active node within the Adriatic trade network—a city whose economy, unlike that of purely agricultural centres such as Herdonia, was permanently oriented towards the sea.

Becoming Christian: The Basilicas and the Sacred Landscape

Edoardo Tresoldi’s metalwork on the Christian basilica among Sipontum ruins. (CREDITS: UNIVERSITA’ DI FOGGIA & BARI)

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No visitor to the modern archaeological park of Sipontum can remain unaware of the site’s most celebrated monument: the ghost of an early Christian basilica, reconstructed in steel wire mesh at a scale of 1:1 by the Italian sculptor Edoardo Tresoldi and inaugurated in 2016 as a permanent installation. 

Rising to fourteen meters and weighing approximately seven tonnes, Tresoldi’s translucent steel structure traces the outer walls, nave columns, and apse of the last phase of the city’s principal late antique church—rendering visible, to a visitor standing in the Puglia’s sunlight, the ghostly volume of a building that occupied this ground for several centuries before dissolving into ruin. 

The installation has been celebrated internationally as one of the most successful acts of artistic intervention in an archaeological context: a work that communicates the presence of an absent architecture, many have argued, more powerfully than conventional reconstruction could; its success reached out to LaRepubblica, Corriere della Sera, CNN, Forbes, Slate, Art Tribune, Art Vibes, Coachella and numerous others.

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Tresoldi’s world-known phantom church reconstruction acclaimed on CNN Style arts section. (CREDITS: CNN STYLE)

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The basilica that Tresoldi evokes has itself a complex archaeological history: a first early Christian basilica—a large longitudinal structure with nave, side aisles, and apse—was constructed at Sipontum in the fourth century CE, probably in connection with the establishment of the city as an episcopal see: Sipontum was among the earliest dioceses in the region, its bishop appearing in the records of fourth-century councils. 

The basilica went through multiple phases of construction and renovation, reflecting the city’s continued vitality through the fifth and sixth centuries. The stratigraphic analysis of its successive building phases, combined with the evidence from Saggio II. 

Here recent excavations have revealed the remains of an apsidal cult building whose position suggests a transitional moment between late antique civic and early Christian religious use—is progressively filling in one of the least understood episodes of Sipontum’s biography: the precise choreography of its Christianization.

Immediately adjacent to the early Christian basilica stands the Romanesque church of Santa Maria Maggiore di Siponto, built in the eleventh or twelfth century on or near the foundations of an earlier structure, its exterior arcading, carved portal, and refined proportions placing it within the sophisticated Romanesque building culture of Norman Puglia. 

Its very walls incorporate reused Roman architectural elements—columns, capitals, and carved stone stripped from the ruins of the ancient city surrounding it—a practice of spoliation that was simultaneously pragmatic, economical, and expressive of a profound continuity between the old city and the new religious order built upon its bones.

Sipontum’s sacred geography was further enriched by its position on the ancient Via Sacra Langobardorum—the Via Micaelica—one of the most important pilgrimage routes in medieval Europe, which led the faithful from the Rhine valley and the Po plain across the Apennines to the sanctuary of the Archangel Michael at Monte Sant’Angelo on the Gargano promontory. 

Positioned at the foot of the road ascending to it, Sipontum functioned as a staging post and supply node for the thousands of pilgrims who passed through annually, a role that sustained its commercial vitality—and its food economy—well into the medieval period, even as the physical fabric of the ancient city contracted around it.

The Roman architecture entrance of Santa Maria Maggiore di Siponto church. (CREDITS: UNIVERSITA’ DI FOGGIA & BARI)

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Aerial view of Santa Maria Maggiore di Siponto church and Tresoldi’s artwork. (CREDITS: UNIVERSITA’ DI FOGGIA & BARI)

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Medieval Transformation and the End of an Ancient City

The abandonment of Sipontum was the consequence of processes so gradual and incremental that no single moment can be identified as the city’s end. Yet in the end it did, in one of the more poignant stories in the long history of Mediterranean urbanism: excavations in the area of the ancient amphitheatre have revealed that its superstructure was already being quarried for building material in the late antique period, its stone reused in domestic construction elsewhere in the shrinking urban fabric. 

By the early medieval period, the arena floor had been converted to granary pits—a transformation with dozens of comparable sites across the Roman west, where the great public entertainment buildings of the classical city became, in the logic of a contracting economy, simply convenient storage facilities: burials of the fifth century CE and a medieval cemetery in the same zone speak to the progressive domestication of former public space that characterized urban shrinkage in the late antique west. 

Excavation has further documented that the late antique and early medieval road system reutilized the alignments of the Roman street grid—a continuity of urban morphology, however transformed the uses of the spaces between streets had become.

The written record of Sipontum’s medieval decline is dominated by two catastrophes that finally extinguished the city’s continuous life: the earthquake of 1223—a seismic event of considerable destructive power recorded across a number of Pugliese chronicles—severely damaged whatever remained of the ancient and early medieval urban fabric. 

The blow was compounded by the chronic malarial environment generated by the progressive infilling of the lagoon: by the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, the miasmatic conditions of Sipontum’s coastal plain had made the city, in the testimony of contemporary observers, effectively uninhabitable for much of the year.

The final act came not from nature but from deliberate political decision: Manfred of Sicily—illegitimate son of Frederick II of Hohenstaufen, and himself one of the most capable statesmen of thirteenth-century Italy—oversaw, between 1256 and 1263, the foundation of the new city of Manfredonia named, with a ruler’s characteristic directness, after himself— on a new site approximately three-four kilometers to the northwest of ancient Sipontum, on ground higher, better drained, and further from the pestilential shore. 

The population of Sipontum was transferred systematically to the new foundation, its moveable property was carried away, and its stonework was progressively stripped for the construction of Manfredonia’s new walls, cathedral, and civic buildings. What remained was left to the advancing silts and the encroaching coastal scrub. 

The irony of Sipontum’s medieval biography was not lost on those who witnessed it: the same lagoon that had sheltered the city’s harbor and sustained its economy across fourteen centuries had, over those same centuries, become its executioner. The port that was the city’s reason for existence was also, in the end, the instrument of its dissolution.

Sipontum in September 2026: Research, Recovery, and the Emerging Archaeological Park

A nocturnal aerial view with the logo of Sipontum’s Archaeological Park. (CREDITS: ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK OF GARGANO)

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The transformation of Sipontum from an almost invisible archaeological site into one of the most actively researched ancient cities in the Italian south is a story of recent vintage—and one that is still vividly unfolding: the Parco Archeologico di Siponto, administered for many years within the network of the Polo Museale della Puglia, was reorganized in 2024 within the newly established Parco Archeologico del Gargano, which integrated the management of Sipontum within a broader protected heritage landscape encompassing the archaeological resources of the Gargano promontory and its immediate hinterland. 

That reorganization reflected a growing recognition that Sipontum’s significance cannot be understood in isolation from the natural and cultural landscape of which it forms a part: the lagoonal system, the coastal road, the pilgrimage routes to Monte Sant’Angelo, and the ancient sea passage to Dalmatia all belong to a single interconnected system of human beings and environment interaction that the new park is positioned to communicate with a coherence no previous institutional arrangement could provide.

The current phase of excavation—arguably the most methodologically ambitious in the site’s research history—is the result of a major interdisciplinary collaboration between the Universities of Bari and Foggia, under the joint scientific direction of archaeological experts Roberto Goffredo, Maria Turchiano, and Giuliano Volpe, with the participation of researchers from across the Italian and international scholarly community. 

The research program Sipontum: Archeologia Globale di una Città Portuale has conducted annual excavation campaigns from 2021 to 2025, combining conventional stratigraphic excavation with an integrated suite of non-invasive and digital methods: ground-penetrating radar (GPR), electrical resistivity tomography (ERT), drone photogrammetry, structured-light laser scanning, and GIS-based landscape analysis.

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The research program banner on the port city of Sipontum. (CREDITS: SOPRINTENDENZA BENI CULTURALI BAT-FOGGIA)

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The geophysical prospection program, coordinated by Laura Cerri and her collaborators, has produced the first subsurface cartography of significant areas within the ancient city’s perimeter—revealing, in the buried plan of streets, building blocks, and open spaces, the ghost of a Roman urban fabric whose surface traces had largely disappeared: the results have fundamentally redrawn the scholarly understanding of Sipontum’s spatial organization, providing an evidential framework for excavation strategy in the years ahead.

A particularly significant international dimension has been provided by the collaboration of University of Foggia (UniFG) with McGill University’s Department of Art History and Communication Studies: the McGill-UniFg field school, directed on the Canadian side by Darian M. Totten, integrated within the broader research program of the University of Foggia, has conducted training excavations at Sipontum from 2022 to 2025: since Summer 2022, Darian Totten, Associate Professor in the Department of History and Classical Studies, has been leading a team of undergraduate and graduate students on a six-week long excavation of Sipontum, located in the Comune of Manfredonia, in Italy’s Apulia region. 

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McGill graduates’ photo during ‘22-’25 Sipontum excavations. (CREDITS: PROF. DARIAN M. TOTTEN – MCGILL UNIVERSITY)

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They were also simultaneously contributing, through publications addressed to an Anglophone scholarly audience, to the international visibility of a site that has been almost entirely unknown outside Italian specialist circles (Totten, Goffredo 2022–2025). It is precisely this international dimension—a transatlantic research partnership of the kind that transformed understanding of comparable sites a generation ago—that Sipontum requires and is now, at last, beginning to receive.

The material results of the recent campaigns speak for themselves: beyond the discovery of the Republican-period defensive wall and tower in 2023, excavations in Saggio II have revealed an apsidal cult building whose plan and stratigraphic position document, with unusual clarity, the transitional moment between late antique civic organization and early Christian religious conversion of urban space.

A structure of the kind whose significance for understanding Christianization processes in the provincial city has been emphasized by recent comparative scholarship across the late antique west. Further studies of the ceramic, glass, and metalwork assemblages are ongoing, with specialist publications by Giovanni De Venuto, Lucia Piepoli, and their collaborators advancing the site’s material bibliography on multiple fronts.

The Museo Nazionale Archeologico e Castello di Manfredonia, which houses the principal collection of material from Sipontum and its territory—including stelae daunae, Roman sculpture, late antique decorative elements, and the remarkable numismatic material recovered from various excavation seasons—continues to serve as the primary interpretive resource for the site’s finds, pending the development of a dedicated on-site museum facility within the future archaeological park. 

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Stelae Daunie at Manfredonia’s National Archaeological and Castle Museum. (CREDITS: MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO NAZIONALE E CASTELLO DI MANFREDONIA)

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The museum’s collections, now professionally curated and partially rearranged to incorporate the most recent research results, offer the visitor a walk through Sipontum’s entire chronological range—from the painted pottery of the Daunian communities who first occupied the lagoonal terrace to the Lombard and Byzantine metalwork that accompanied the city’s early medieval transformation.

Conclusions: An ancient Port City Reclaimed

Sipontum’s claim on international attention rests on an argument that the foregoing pages have, it is hoped, made with some force: this is a city of exceptional depth, complexity, and scholarly potential that has been, until very recently, almost entirely absent from the Anglophone literature on Roman and late antique Italy: its research archive—the accumulated results of decades of intermittent investigation, now vastly augmented by the digital documentation, geophysical survey, and interdisciplinary excavation of the 2021–2025 campaigns—constitutes a resource of extraordinary value. 

The proportion of the ancient city yet uninvestigated remains, by the excavators’ own estimates, very large: what the spade has touched represents only a fraction of what the soil still contains, as Giuliano Volpe, who has devoted the greater part of his scholarly career to the archaeology of northern Puglia’s ancient cities, has repeatedly observed, each season at Sipontum revises substantially what the previous season had established. 

The city, in this sense, remains genuinely open: Sipontum’s story is also, uniquely among the ancient cities of the Italian south, as much a story of environmental history as of urban history with the buried lagoon beneath the Carapelle river plain, the progressive infilling of the harbour, the malarial transformation of a thriving commercial waterfront into a lethal coastal marsh; these are processes that speak directly to questions of human-environment interaction, climate resilience, and urban adaptation that are as urgent in 2026 as they were in the sixth century CE. 

The research program’s explicit focus on Sipontum as a port and landscape system rather than merely an architectural ensemble positions it to make a distinctive contribution to precisely these debates—debates that reach beyond Mediterranean archaeology into the broader, urgent conversation about how human communities in coastal environments have managed, and failed to manage, the consequences of environmental change.

And then there is the wire mesh basilica: fourteen metres of translucent steel rising from the Puglia-based plain in the morning light, its ghostly walls filtering the Adriatic sky, simultaneously an act of artistic imagination and an act of archaeological communication through Edoardo Tresoldi’s installation which has done for Sipontum what no scholarly monograph could: it has made the invisible visible, and the forgotten unforgettable—bringing hundreds of thousands of visitors each year to a place they had never heard of, arresting them with the spectacle of an absence rendered suddenly, brilliantly, present.

Fifteen centuries of silting, abandonment, plague, earthquake, and deliberate demolition have not extinguished Sipontum: the paramount port city of Daunia—submerged beneath its own alluvium, dissolved into a medieval successor’s foundations, slowly reclaimed by the patient collaborative work of archaeologists, geomorphologists, and artists—is waiting to be fully found.

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Acknowledgments

The author acknowledges the fundamental contributions of Giuliano Volpe and Maria Turchiano to the study of Sipontum and of the wider cultural landscape of northern Puglia. Thanks are due to Roberto Goffredo for his direction of the ongoing excavation campaigns, to Darian M. Totten and the McGill University-UniFg field school for their contribution to the site’s international visibility, and to the Soprintendenza Archeologia Belle Arti e Paesaggio for the Provinces of Foggia and BAT for their continuing stewardship of one of the most important archaeological landscapes in the Italian south. The community and Comune of Manfredonia, and the dedicated staff of the Parco Archeologico del Gargano, are owed particular thanks for their commitment to making Sipontum accessible to the broadest possible public.

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Selected Bibliography and Further Reading

Ancient Sources: Livy XXXIV.45; Strabo VI.3.9; Pliny, Naturalis Historia III.103; Cassiodorus, Variae; Procopius, De Bello Gothico; Itinerarium Antonini; Tabula Peutingeriana; Silius Italicus, Punica VIII.633.

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Names for the Dead: Identity, Memory, and Rome in the Cemeteries of Montebelluna

As Editor of Popular Archaeology Magazine, Anastasia Adeler is a writer, journalist, and frequent and regular contributor to the magazine on travel, museums and other subject areas. She also manages Popular Archaeology’s social media editorial presence through Instagram, plays a key role in the formulation of planning and policy matters for the magazine, and plans, coordinates and executes other projects as they relate to the magazine’s content and objectives. She is the founder and author of Living Rooms, a slow journalism project. 

At the Museo di Santa Caterina in Treviso, Italy, I had been given the dangerous freedom of choosing any subject I wanted. The museum did not make the decision easier. Its archaeological rooms move from stone tools to Bronze Age swords, from the grave goods of the ancient Veneti to Roman portraits and funerary monuments. Above them, in the former convent, frescoes and later paintings belong to another Treviso altogether. Chronology offered the obvious way through the museum. Yet an urn is not a date range. It once held a person, and it was placed there by people who knew that person by name. That simple fact changes the scale of the story. When the political world changes, what happens to the name by which a person is remembered? On a funerary vessel, the answer was not theoretical. Someone had to choose the name. Someone had to choose the language. 

That choice can be traced in the cemeteries of Montebelluna, some 20 kilometers northwest of Treviso, in the Veneto of northeastern Italy. Long before Venice existed, this landscape was home to communities of the ancient Veneti, and generations of their dead were buried here. Their graves preserve vessels, ornaments, weapons, and other traces of individual lives. Some of the funerary vessels also carry names. As Rome became an increasingly powerful presence in the region, those names, and the alphabets and formulas used to record them, began to change. But the Roman part of the story comes later. The graves are older. 

Among Luigi Bailo’s early acquisitions for Treviso’s civic museum in 1882 were grave goods from Montebelluna, including a remarkable bronze cista dating to the sixth or fifth century BCE. Its decoration was worked in embossed sheet bronze and finished with a burin; across its surface, figures move through a world already fully its own, among them a farmer at the plough. The same technique appears on five votive discs depicting a key-bearing goddess, a type attested in the Piave Valley between the fourth and second centuries BCE and associated with cultural contact with the Celtic world. These objects belonged to a society with its own ritual vocabulary, imagery, and networks of exchange. Those networks reached across the Adriatic, the Po Plain, and into the Alpine world. Long before families began inscribing names in Venetic and, later, in Latin, that language of belonging was already there. 

The dead were cremated and buried with objects that could signal status, gender, social role, and ritual identity. Some of those objects already had another life. Metal vessels used during funerary banquets could later become cinerary urns; brooches, buckles, and jewelry accompanied the deceased into the grave. Axes and bronze-sheet cylinders, once described as sceptres and now more cautiously interpreted as probable ceremonial spindles, may likewise have marked a particular role or rank. A grave, then, was not simply a container for remains. It was also a carefully assembled statement about who a person had been and how those who buried them wished that person to be remembered. That is why the names matter.

Across the first century BCE and into the beginning of the first century CE, the change becomes visible at the scale of individual burials. Tomb 304 at the Posmon cemetery contains ten burials made over several generations, with inscriptions in both Venetic and Latin. One vessel is particularly revealing: the name Essonna Cnussicina, formed according to Venetic naming practice, appears to have been cancelled and replaced by Ostia Cusonia, and the two versions may even be in the same hand. Tomb 174 preserves other experiments. There is Lukatka in Venetic script; elsewhere, Ostruo Luccaticos T. f. is written in Latin characters and incorporates Roman-style filiation while retaining names rooted in the local naming stock. Another funerary vessel carries the uncertain reading A(?) M Pulio Lucretis(?), closer again to a Roman naming formula. These are not steps in a clean progression from “Venetic” to “Roman.” They are choices made within families, sometimes within the same tomb, about how a person would be named and remembered. Seen this way, the inscriptions become difficult to treat as evidence alone. The alteration from Essonna Cnussicina to Ostia Cusonia is only a few marks on the surface of a vessel, yet it records a decision made at the most intimate scale: how one person would be named among the dead. Someone wrote one form, then changed it. Elsewhere, in the same cemeteries, families moved between Venetic and Latin scripts, local names and Roman formulas, sometimes combining them rather than choosing one world over the other. 

Standing before these objects, that unevenness feels more revealing than any neat account of “Romanization.” Political change can be described in dates and institutions; here it survives in something much smaller, in the hesitation, adaptation, or certainty with which a name was written down. By this time, the larger political landscape was changing decisively. Northeastern Italy was being drawn ever more fully into Rome’s political and cultural system, and the region would ultimately become part of Roman Italy. On a map, that transformation can look almost inevitable: one order expanding as another recedes. The cemeteries at Montebelluna tell a less orderly story. At Posmon, change could advance, pause, combine older and newer forms, and even seem to reverse direction within a single family. What appears from a distance as “Romanization” becomes, at the scale of the grave, a succession of individual accommodations, choices about what to keep, what to adopt, and what still felt like one’s own. And it is precisely that uncertainty that makes Montebelluna so compelling. The closer one looks, the less Romanization resembles a straight line. Rome is becoming more powerful, its institutions more consequential and its language increasingly visible, yet the people living through that transformation refuse to arrange themselves neatly on either side of it. A family might adopt a Roman convention without abandoning an older name; one generation could make a different choice from the next. From a distance, the empire seems to move across territory. Here it moves through households, habits, and decisions so small that most would have disappeared completely had someone not written a name onto a vessel and placed it in a grave. Names are only one place where that negotiation becomes visible. The objects surrounding the dead tell a similar story. Older forms and practices could persist beside newer ones; a vessel or an ornament might belong to a local funerary language even as other elements of the burial pointed toward Rome. 

What fascinates me here is the absence of a clean break. Cultural change seems to gather rather than replace, in things kept, altered, or newly introduced, until a grave can hold several histories at once. That is also where our own categories begin to feel inadequate. “Venetic” and “Roman” are useful words when we talk about populations, languages, or political systems; they become far less stable when pressed onto a single life. A name might belong to one tradition, the alphabet to another, the objects in the grave to several more. What looks contradictory from the outside may not have felt contradictory at all to the people living it. That possibility I find strangely moving. We tend to imagine identity as something people possess intact, but here it appears more like something assembled, piece by piece, from family, language, objects, and the shifting world beyond the cemetery. A metal vessel might first have belonged to the world of the living, passed from hand to hand during a funerary meal, before being given a second and final purpose as an urn. That change of function is easy to describe archaeologically; it is harder not to imagine what it meant to the people who did it. An ordinary act of holding, pouring, sharing became part of the work of remembrance. The same object could move from use to ritual, from the living body to the cremated dead, giving it more than one meaning. 

Perhaps that is why these graves feel so resistant to simple categories: nothing in them seems to have had only one life. In the museum, those different lives survive only in fragments: bronze, ceramic, a line of writing, the curve of a vessel behind glass. Each of those objects belonged to several moments before it reached this case. It was handled, used, drawn into ritual, placed with the dead, buried, excavated, catalogued. Once you know that history, the display case feels almost too small for everything that happened before. 

When I left Santa Caterina, I kept thinking about the names. Montebelluna does not give us a neat sequence in which one identity disappears and another takes its place. Families combined older names, Latin letters, and Roman formulas in ways that do not match our tidy categories. What remains feels close to lived experience precisely because it is inconsistent. People adjusted at different speeds, in different directions, for reasons we can only partly recover. And suddenly the enormous subject of Roman expansion comes down to decisions made within a household, sometimes to a few letters cut into the surface of a funerary vessel. 

In August, outside Santa Caterina, the scale shifted again. Water ran along old brick, arcades broke the sun into shade, bicycles slid past, glasses rang out at café tables, voices flared briefly and vanished around corners. After the concentrated stillness of the museum, the city felt almost indecently alive. But I no longer heard that liveliness as a contrast. It was simply another layer, this time not contained in a display case, but moving around me. What had just felt distant now seemed strangely near.

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Above and below: interior views of the Santa Caterina Museum galleries and exhibited objects.

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References: 

1. Museo di Santa Caterina, Collezioni Civiche di Treviso.

2. Parco e Museo Archeologico Naturalistico di Montebelluna. 

3. Public information on the Posmon necropolis and related finds, Comune di Montebelluna. 

4. Scholarly overview on Venetic inscriptions (A. Marinetti).

5. Epigraphic Database Roma (EDR).6. General background on the Romanization of Veneto (academic overviews, e.g. G. Cresci Marrone, L. Capuis).

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If You Want to Write….Move to Rome

Professor Frank J. Korn has retired from his teaching position on the Classical Studies faculty at Seton Hall University.  He is a Fulbright Scholar at the American Academy in Rome and the author of nine books on various aspects of the Eternal City.  He is listed in Marquis Who’s Who as “a notable classical educator and writer.”  Recipient of the Princeton Prize for Distinguished Teaching, he resides with his wife Camille in Scotch Plains, N.J.  The couple’s three sons –  Frank, Ronald, and John and their families live nearby.  His latest book  –  Below Rome, the Story of the Catacombs  –  which he co-authored with his wife, is available on Amazon or from the publisher, St. Johann Press, Haworth, N.J.

 

For all its cosmopolitanism and sophistication, ancient Rome  –  the city, that is  –  turned out few homegrown writers of note.  Curiously, nearly all of those authors one associates with that time and place hailed from some Italian municipality or distant province.

And though these wordsmiths had come to the Eternal City to seek their fame and fortune, they seem never to have fully embraced it.  Like the song says, “I Left My Heart In San Francisco”.  Each appeared to have left his heart in Tusculum, Sulmo, or Verona, or in Gaul, Spain, Greece, or North Africa.  This lingering attachment to the soil of their birth can often be seen in or inferred from their writings.

In his correspondence, Cicero clearly shows that he made it a point to visit his childhood town of Arpinum as often as his busy agenda allowed.  Writing to Brutus in 46 B.C., for example, he boasts:

“…quam diligenter soleam meos municipes Arpinates tueri.”

…How conscientiously I always support my fellow townsmen, the Arpinati.

Quite a number of these scribes chose to spend their retirement years back home among their hometown folks.  For instance, Martial, who achieved renown in Rome as a satirist and epigrammatist, moved back to his farm in Spain as soon as he had accumulated enough money to use as a pension, enough to enjoy a life of leisure with dignity.  (‘Otium cum dignitate,” as Cicero liked to put it.)  Livy, the historian, spent his twilight years back in his native Patavium (Padua) in well-earned relaxation.  And several others did likewise, retreating to the places of their youth.

Venusia (now called Venosa), down in the heel of the boot of Italy, gave to Rome’s literati community the satirist Horace.  Mantua, way up in the Po Valley, sent Publius Virgilius Maro (i.e. Virgil); Comum (Como) the two Plinys, Spain the two Senecas, plus Martial and Quintilian among others.  Lucan, the poet/rhetorician, also came down to Rome, from Corduba (ancient Córdoba), in Spain.  His best known work was the epic poem Bellum Civile, about the civil war between the legions of Caesar and the troops of Pompey.  Neapolis (Naples) provided Statius, the court poet laureate to the Emperor Domitian.

Throughout his lyrical odes, Horace reminisces about his boyhood.  In Ode III.4, for example, he writes:  “Do you hear me, or does a lovely madness delude me?  I dream of still wandering across the hallowed groves with her where lovely cool streams flow and gentle breezes blow.  Just near the border of Apulia where one day I as a lad, worn to exhaustion from playing on the slopes of Mount Vultur, fell asleep outdoors.  Pigeons covered me with leaves to keep me safe from snakes.”  I grew up in that region, in the town of Venusia.

Virgil too, fondly recalls his boyhood in his pastoral poetry, the Eclogues.  In one of these there is a dialogue in which a shepherd (i.e. himself) laments the government confiscation of private property to give possession of it to returning veterans.  (Augustus instituted this ancient version of a G.I. Bill.  Many of his successors continued this practice.)  “Ah,” Virgil wrote, “will I now gaze, after all these years, at my old cottage and farm.  These days an arrogant ex-soldier owns my well-kept fields, a barbarian the crops we sowed.  See what the war has resulted in?”

The author of the great epic, Aeneid goes on to enshrine country life in his pastoral verses.  His works, along with those of Horace, Ovid, and Livy, later generations would consider “The Golden Age of Latin Literature.”  With deep nostalgia for his roots, this laureate Virgil, captured, in onomatopoeic lines, the music of a summer night back home:  the choir of birds, the singing of insects, the cadence of cicadas, and so on.

As for Ovid, his love and nostalgia for the land of his youth are often included in his writings.  In his work Tristia, Book IV.10 he tells us about his beloved hometown, far from the bedlam of Rome.

“Sulmo mihi patria est, gelidis uberrimus undis, milia qui nouiens distat ab Urbs.  Editus hic ego sum.”

(Sulmo is my homeland, rich in cold mountain streams, 90 miles from the City.  Here I was born and raised.)

Ovid wrote love poems.  One of his early works, Amores, a collection of love elegies, brought him instant fame.  His most acclaimed work, however, is his Metamorphoses, a collection of myths where gods, humans, and nature turn into new forms, such as trees (Apollo’s Daphne, for example). 

Pliny the Elder served as the admiral of the Roman fleet anchored in the harbor of Misenum, on the Bay of Naples.  In the preceding years he worked on his many-volumed encyclopedia, Naturtalis Historia.  His nephew, Pliny the Younger, had his essays published.  He kept copies of all the many letters he had sent to friends, with an eye toward publication of them someday, too.  This collection became a best-seller with the Roman readership.

The two Plinys made annual trips back home to Comum (Como) on the dazzlingly beautiful lake.  The younger, on one such trip, left enormous sums of money to his beloved hometown for the building of schools and a state-of-the-art local public library.

The poet Statius produced collections of poems along with two epics:  One on the war over the throne of Thebes, the other on the life of Achilles.  Statius in his literary efforts frequently sang the praises of the beauty and tranquility of his Neapolis, its harmonious bay, its traces of Greek culture and the warmth of its people.

The elder Seneca’s written works include Controversiae, a volume of student debates on imaginary court cases; and Suasoria, a book of speeches that persuaded real or imaginary persons on how to make correct decisions.

The younger Seneca published a collection of letters to a friend Lucilius.  (Whether this friend was real or imaginary depends on the classicist one consults.)  At any rate, in these epistles the writer dispenses his advice on living well by adhering to the tenets of Stoicism, a philosophy exalting self-control, e.g.

Vita, si scias uti, satis longa est..

(Life is long enough if you know how to use it.)

Ignis aurum probat, miseria fortes viros.

(Fire tests gold; suffering tests a man’s courage.)

In short, a Stoic preaches that one should accept with equanimity whatever comes along in life.

(The Emperor Marcus Aurelius, a steadfast Stoic, wrote a volume on the benefits to be reaped from that philosophy.  The book is called Meditationes.)

Quintilian, a teacher of rhetoric, also joined the writers’ ranks with his highly regarded textbook on that subject.  He was born and grew up in Calahorra (Calagurris) in southern Spain.  During his many years as a scholar he learned to acknowledge in Cicero the epitome of eloquence.  Quintilian was a close friend of his colleague Martial.

From Volterra in Etruria (now Tuscany) there’s Aulus Persius, who, like all the others, came to Rome in pursuit of a literary career.  Persius, too, wrote an apologetic on Stoicism.

Lucretius, Rome’s chief exponent of Epicurean philosophy, also came from the region of Campania, perhaps from the ill fated city of Pompeii.  His “De Rerum Natura” (About the Nature of Things) earned him rave reviews.  This long poem is considered to be the most beautiful didactic poem of ancient times.

Many of these locales still show their pride in the literary accomplishments of their native sons through monuments, piazzas, and street names.  The facade of its liceo (high school) rural Arpino, as it’s called today, displays a bust of Cicero.  In its main square, Venosa features a bronze statue of Horace.  One of Como’s principal thoroughfares is the Via Plinio.  On the front of Como’s Catholic cathedral, flanking the central doors, are marble effigies  –  one of Pliny the Elder, the other of Pliny the Younger. 

The migration of writers to the banks of the Tiber began as early as the third century before Christ.  Somewhere around 230 B.C. a young man named Titus Maccius Plautus left his boyhood home in Sarsinia, Umbria, to make a name for himself creating stage comedies in Rome.  The theater-going crowd there at once loved Plautus’ guffaw-evoking, slapstick farces.  The Umbrian’s biggest hit was the Menaechmi, literally a comedy of errors.  His works remain today among the most widely read of the Latin classics.  In his play, Montellaria, he gives a nod to his hometown:  “Quid?  Sarsiniatis ecqua est si Umbrian non habet?”  (Well?  How about a lovely girl from Sarsinia then, if you haven’t got one from Umbria?)

That same era saw the success of another playwright, Quintus Ennius, from the town of Rudiae, not far from Horace’s Venusia.  In addition to his tragedies, comedies, and satires, Ennius also published the Annales, an epic poem on the history of Rome.  In some quarters he was considered “The Father of Latin Poetry”.  A thousand years later, Dante paid this tribute to Ennius:  “Tu se solo colui da cu’io tolsilo bellstile.  (You are the only one whose beautiful style I took as my own.)

A contemporary and friend, Marcus Porcius Cato, from Tusculum in the Alban Hills, also gained renown as a writer.  This war hero and statesman published prolifically.  His De Agricultura sang the praises of the pure and simple farm life of Tusculum, of the work ethic of its old- time landowners, “men of the soil.”  The hawkish patriot was convinced that Rome’s survival hinged on the elimination of Carthage as a rival world power.  He would end every speech by shouting “Carthago delenda est!”  (Carthage must be destroyed) and storm from the floor of the Senate.

Out of Africa in the second century B.C. came the playwright Terence.  To ensure that his homeland would bask in any glory he achieved, the Carthage-born writer assumed a cognomen so that his full name would be Publius Terentius Afer.

From Reato (Rieti) in the Sabine country, early in the  pre-Christian era, Marcus Terentius Varro relocated to Rome to help his budding literary career.  Among Varro’s scores of publications were an encyclopedia (Antiquitates Rerum Humanarum), and a three volume treatise on agriculture (Rerum Rusticarum Libri).  In the latter, hardly a page goes by without a nostalgic mention of Reato and its people.  The historian Sallust joined the writing ranks of Rome from Amiternum, also in the Sabine territory.  His Bellum Catilinarium and Bellum Jugurthinum afforded the folks back home more bragging rights.

One of history’s first practitioners of biography, Cornelius Nepos, moved to Rome from somewhere in Northern Italy.  His De Viris Illustribus was long a favorite text for beginning Latin students.

Romeo and Juliet’s fair Verona was the birthplace of the celebrated “love poet,” Gaius Valerius Catullus.  In his mid-twenties he traded the tranquility of that region for the nightlife and dinner parties of the Capital.  With his pen he immortalized his illicit lover, Clodia Metti, whom he called “Lesbia,” and titillated Rome society:

“Vivamus mea Lesbia, atque amemus...”

(Let us live my Lesbia and let us love…)

Catullus also wrote longingly of “enchanting Sirmione” on Lake Garda where he spent his idyllic boyhood summers:

“Paene insularum, Sirmio, insularumque ocelle, quascumque in liquentibus stagnis marique vasto fert uterque Neptunus….”

(Sirmione bright eye of all peninsulas and islands that in liquid lakes and vast ocean

Neptune bears…..)

From Patavium (Padua), Rome imported her finest historian, Livy.  Propertius the splendid elegist came down from Assisium (Assisi).  In Rome he forged a close friendship with Publius Ovidius Naso, or Ovid, if you will.  Resolved to make his town of Sulmo (Sulmona) in the Paelignian mountains proud of him, Ovid wrote:  “I can see some visitor to Sulmo, taking in its tiny scale, the streams, the walls, and exclaiming:  ‘Any township, however small, that could breed so fine a poet, I consider great.”  His Amores and Metamorphoses readily achieved that goal. Livy wrote a comprehensive History of Rome titled Ab Urbe Condita (From the Founding of the City).  One classical scholar claimed, metaphorically, that this magnum opus was and remains, “The Most grandiose monument ever erected to the glory of ancient Rome.”  Livy traces Rome’s history from Alba Longa, the “Mother City” (12th century B.C.), to the ninth year before the Christian era.

The two Senecas – father Marcus and son Lucius  –  through their writings brought credit to Corduba (Cordova) in the first century of our era.  Seneca senior wrote a collection of oratory exercises for use by schools of rhetoric, and ten books, the Controversiae (imaginary legal cases and methods of presenting them).  Of these, five books are still extant.  The younger Seneca authored many excellent essays among which are: De Providentia (On Providence); De Ira (On Anger); De Sapientis Constantis (On the Constancy of the Wise Man): De Tranquillitate (on how to combat inner restlessness and lack of peace).  He also produced  nine tragedies.  These were adaptations of plays by Sophocles and Euripides but with a tendency toward the pathetic and the macabre.  He is also remembered for serving as private tutor to the young Nero.

And yet another product of Spain, Martial, from the town of Bilbilis, made a splash on the literary scene in Rome with his witty, pithy, epigrams.

Around this time, Flavius Josephus, a Jewish scholar from Jerusalem, was in Rome working on his history of the Jewish War, Bellum Judaicum.

Another historian, Tacitus, reached Rome by way of Narbonensis in Transalpine Gaul (near modern Narbonne in France). Petronius, the “novelist” as some scholars refer to him, also came down to Rome from Transalpine Gaul from the port of Massalia (i.e. Marseille, France).  He is best known for his book the Satiricon, of which only fragments still exist, the most important and most amusing chapter of which is the Banquet of Trimalchio, a satire on the braggadocciio of the nuoveau riche host.  Suetonius, the biographer of the Caesars, was North African by birth.  So too was Apuleius, sometimes called “The Novelist.”  Their era (A.D. 14-138) was what scholars call the Silver Age of Latin Literature.  Pliny the Younger belonged to this gifted crop of Roman writers.

The satirist Juvenal so loved his native village of Aquinum that he used it as a metonymy for everyone’s place of birth:

“Et quotiens te tuo reddet Aquino...”

(And whenever you return to your Aquinum…)

Tertullian, the first important Christian Latin author, came to Rome from Carthage (Tunisia).  He converted to Christianity at age 35 and wrote an eloquent defense of his new faith against paganism:  the Apologia.

These are but some of the authors, poets, scholars and playwrights who followed one of the many roads that lead to Rome in quest of literary immortality.

The poet Martial versified it all this way:

Verona docti sillybos amat vatis,

Marone felix Mantua est,

Censetur Aponi Livio sua tellus

Stellaque nec Flacco minus;

Appllodoro plaudit imbriger Nilus,

Nasone Paeligni sonant,.

Duosque Senecas unicumque Lucanum

Facunda loquetur Corduba.

Verona loves the work of its learned poet,

Mantua is proud of her Maro,

Padua is noted for its Livy

And no less for Stella and Flaccus

The rain-swollen Nile applauds Apollodorus,

The Paeligni resound with Ovid,

The two Senecas and the one and only Lucan

Give Corduba eloquence…