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Time Traveling in Philadelphia

Ana Adeler is a free-lance writer and contributor to Popular Archaeology Magazine on travel and museums.

Some places don’t need grand introductions.

They simply exist, quietly waiting for you to notice them. They don’t shout. They don’t beg. They just stand there, steadfast, like an old friend waiting at a café table, knowing you’ll eventually find your way back. The Penn Museum is one of those places.

The building itself is a contradiction—imposing, yet welcoming. Its northern Italian Renaissance-style facade is kissed by time, softened by ivy, and bathed in a Philadelphia sun that seems to hold the weight of centuries. The entrance gates, curiously Asian in design, feel like a passage to another world. And maybe that’s exactly what they are.

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Image courtesy Penn Museum

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Step inside, and suddenly the modern world dissolves. The air shifts. It’s quieter here, as though history has muted the usual chaos of life. The walls, high and arched, have been listening for over a century—absorbing the footfalls of professors, the murmurs of schoolchildren, the sharp intakes of breath from travelers who realize they have stumbled into something seemingly sacred.

And oh, the things these walls have seen….

Like a royal greeting, a colossal granite sphinx of Ramses II meets me. It looms, its stone lips curved into a knowing half-smile, as if humored by the transient nature of human worries. It has outlived empires, dynasties, entire languages. It watches, patient and eternal, as visitors lean in to decipher the hieroglyphs engraved artfully and with almost unbelievable precision into its hard granite surface. Their hands unconsciously mirror the reverence of those who chiseled them into stone thousands of years ago.

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Above and below, views of the sphinx of Ramses II.

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Turn a corner, and Mesopotamia rises from the dust. Fragile clay tablets rest behind glass, each tiny wedge of cuneiform script a part of human utterance from a world that no longer exists. They record grain sales, love letters, prayers, debts—proof that people, no matter the century, are forever preoccupied with hunger, devotion, and money.

In the Buddhist gallery, thangka paintings unfold like silk secrets, their colors impossibly vivid, the brushstrokes delicate as a breath. In another room, Chinese musical instruments stand silent, waiting for a hand to pluck them back into song.

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The Harrison Rotunda at the Penn Museum, with the author at center for scale. It showcases the Chinese antiquities.

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Steps away, there is the restoration lab—a place that feels part science fiction, part quiet cathedral. A glass barrier separates the living from the long-gone, but here, death is not the end. Behind the glass, a conservator bends over an Egyptian mummy, his movements precise, reverent. He is not trying to revive it, nor improve it, nor give it new life. His job is to ensure it remains exactly as it was, to hold time still, as if by sheer will. Once a day, he opens the door to visitors, answers questions with the calm patience of someone who has spent years listening to the echoes of the past.

Then, I step into Rome.

Not the Rome of Vespa scooters and café terraces, but the Rome of emperors, gladiators, and merchants haggling in the shadow of the Colosseum. The Roman World Gallery hums with the energy of a civilization that refused to be forgotten. Bronze helmets, dulled by time but still fierce, sit next to delicate glassware that somehow survived the centuries. There are coins, each bearing the face of a ruler who once controlled the known world—now just names in history books. The smooth marble of a sculpted bust still holds the ghost of its subject’s ambition, the chiseled jawline of a senator or general who believed, for a time, that power was eternal.

But nothing is.

The next gallery is proof of that.

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Above and below: Views in the Roman Gallery.

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The Etruscan Gallery is quieter, heavier, as though history itself holds its breath here. The Etruscans—brilliant, mysterious, and swallowed by the rising tide of Rome. They left behind no great empire, no grand myths carved into marble. What remains is more intimate: ceramic vessels adorned with intricate scenes of feasts and battles, jewelry so delicate I almost hesitate to believe it once graced the neck of a woman long turned to dust. Their tombs, filled with painted visions of the afterlife, tell us they were not afraid of death. They embraced it as part of the journey.

Here, you stand in front of an ancient sarcophagus. The figures carved on its lid—a man and woman, reclining as if at a banquet—seem almost at ease. Their expressions are not of fear but of understanding, a quiet knowing that the end is not really an end at all, just another passage.

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Above and below: Views in the Etruscan Gallery

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Outside, the garden hums with life. The fountain sings its quiet song, leaves rustle in the breeze, and the sculptures stand, frozen yet expressive, as if they too are considering the weight of history. Here, time is fluid—ancient and modern, static and moving, all at once.

And so, I walk away, my mind richer, my soul slightly heavier. Not because the museum is a place of burdens, but because it has given me something profound: the realization that history is not distant. It breathes in stone and script, in pigment and melody. It breathes in me.

 

And now, wherever I go, I will carry a small piece of it with me.

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Editor’s Note: For more information about the Penn Museum and how to visit, see the museum’s website.

Exploring Ancient Etruscan Paths: A Pictorial

Bolsena, Italy — As I walked near the shores of this glistening, crystal blue lake, I could easily see why it draws thousands of visitors every year. Boats large and small lined its docks. On this day they were quiet and still. Tourist season was already behind me. Though comfortably warm, hints of the crispness of new fall air were present, yet the verdant landscape that surrounded the lake still displayed its deciduous green — the peek of fall colors were still at least two weeks away. 

It is known to most as Lake Bolsena. But though this body of water is much like others that grace the Italian landscape, unlike the others, it boasts a distinctive and dramatic natural history — one that, unbeknownst to most of Europe’s visiting tourists, makes it the largest volcanic lake on the subcontinent. Created as a depression when the area collapsed after a massive subterranean magmatic chamber drained through volcanic eruptions hundreds of thousands of years ago, it then became a central feature of the geography. Even more significant, however, were the multiple associated eruptions that blanketed the surrounding region with volcanic material, creating a new geologic canvas that was shaped by erosion over the ensuing millennia into a dramatic landscape of steep, cavernous valleys and isolated vertical spurs or buttes of tuffaceous (tufa) rock.

The ancients built their high, defensible settlements atop these spurs, and today a remarkable natural and constructive composition of scenic historic hilltop cities and villages span the confluence of Italy’s regions of Umbria, Tuscany and Lazzio.

It was on one of these hilltop locations that I arrived on September 29, 2024 with a small group of travelers participating with a unique specialty tour company known as Wayfaring Walks. Typically taking small groups to places beyond the usual madding crowd destinations most tourists experience, Wayfaring Walks provides its clients with off-the-beaten-path hiking and walking opportunities through some of the world’s most breathtaking scenery and culturally stimulating sites.

The scenic town of Orvieto was one of those sites. Originally an Etruscan settlement and stronghold, it is thought that this was the location of the Etruscan city of Velzna, and there are still traces of the Etruscan occupation of the site. This was our first stop on what became a once-in-a-lifetime journey….

Day 1: Orvieto

Standing at the edge of a beautiful public park, I peered out and down at the panoramic landscape below me. This was a first for me. The old site of Orvieto sits atop a massive spur of tufa stone, much in form like the isolated buttes one sees in the American Southwest. Every point along the perimeter of Orvieto affords a breathtaking vista of the world around it, with what appears to be a nearly 90% verticality of stone from where one stands at the edge of the city to the adjacent verdant valley surface far below.

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A dramatic cliffside view from Orvieto.

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A view of a portion of the historic defensive wall/fortification at the edge of Orvieto.

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View of the landscape below from Orvieto.

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But what makes Orvieto unique are the incredible subterranean features dug and carved into and through the soft tufa stone beneath the urbanized surface. Our guide takes us first to the city’s iconic Pozzo di San Patrizio, or ”Well of St. Patrick”. Dug and constructed between 1527 and 1537 at the request of Pope Clement VII, it was commissioned at least in part to serve as a secure water supply for the people of Orvieto during times of wartime siege, the name inspired by a medieval Irish legend of a pathway down to Purgatory. We entered the shaft of the well and proceeded slowly down the winding, interior stone steps. They were part of a unique double helix of stairs that wound down and back up the shaft. During medieval times, these stairs afforded teams of donkeys to carry water vessels down to the fresh pool of water at the bottom, and after having them filled, would then ascend back up the same set of stairs without ever crossing paths with the descending teams. It is a remarkable work of engineering and we had the exciting opportunity to experience the same movement as we stepped within its deep recesses centuries later. I counted 248 steps, pacing myself with some stops to rest along the way but marveling at the almost otherworldly atmosphere presented by the surrounding centuries-old stonework and 70 window openings that provided illumination from the outside. 

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Above and below: inside the Pozzo di San Patrizio

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Later, beyond the well, we entered the complex labyrinth of tunnels, chambers, wells, and some of the more precisely carved-out rooms of the subterranean city that lay unseen beneath the streets and structures of Orvieto’s historic center. Only a small fraction of what has been documented to exist beneath the surface has been excavated and prepared for modern visitors. Our guide stepped us through that representative and publicly available space that hard digging and carving work performed by an untold number of laborers created through the distinctively characteristic soft and pliable tufa stone of the region. It made for ideal quarrying, in order to obtain material needed for construction above during medieval times.The walls and ceilings still showed the last gestures or movements of the workers in this place as they shaped the interior spaces with their pick axes centuries ago. Our guide shows us a place where the quarrying laborers came across an ancient Etruscan well. I peer down into its deep vertical recesses below, wondering what those medieval laborers must have thought about their discovery. Throughout previous excavations and exploratory investigations of this subterranean world, archaeologists have found the trace evidence of the original ancient Etruscan occupation of what must have been, and clearly was for its medieval occupants, a securely fortified and easily defensible bastion from potential enemies.

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In another cavernous space, the guide walks us through the remains of a medieval olive press. And in yet another, an amazingly large columbarium, where centuries before the town’s inhabitants raised and sustained birds to produce eggs for sustenance. This was an underground city that featured many of the elements of industry necessary for the economy of a thriving small population.

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The “Etruscan Well”.

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Olive Press

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Olive Press Millstone

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Above and below: subterranean columbarium

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At the surface, we walked through the scenic and medieval ambience of the city’s streets to what is one of Italy’s most iconic cathedrals, the remarkable duomo that has made Orvieto one of Italy’s must-see small towns. The duomo dominates the townscape and has been, since its first cornerstone was laid in 1290 AD, the heart and soul of Orvieto. The exterior of the structure is striped in white travertine and greenish-black basalt, much like the similar and equally iconic cathedral of Siena and other cathedrals in Italy of the time. Most visually stunning to me, however, was the duomo’s facade, graced with the work of master sculptor Lorenzo Maitani of the 14th century.

Inside the duomo, of special note is the Corporal of Bolsena, its story revolving around a eucharistic miracle in Bolsena in 1263, when a consecrated host began to bleed (yes, blood) onto a corporal (a small cloth upon which the host and chalice would rest during performance of the Mass). The miracle of the blood was believed to affirm the Roman Catholic doctrine of transubstantiation — the bread and wine literally becoming the Body and Blood of Christ during consecration in the Mass. The story is that the miraculous bleeding of the host occurred in the hands of an officiating priest who harbored doubts about the transubstantiation. The Corporal of Bolsena is preserved in a reliquary inside the duomo to this day.

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Above and below: the facade of the iconic Orvieto Duomo.

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Above and below: the Orvieto duomo, detail view.

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Inside the duomo, a testimony of faith and the story of the biblical account was represented through incredibly rendered wall paintings that decorated its interior spaces.

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Day 2: Following the Aqueduct, and the Dying City

Wayfaring Walks tours are best known for their almost daily walking and hiking elements, and this adventure was no exception. The highlight of our first full day after our Orvieto town experience centered on what our guide leader described as what would be the most rigorous test of our walking/hiking skills and stamina — the woodland trail adjacent to the 13th century aqueduct that overlooked Orvieto. Two of our group, for a variety of reasons, chose not to participate in this particular walk, which is the option for any person who walks with Wayfaring Walks. We began this trek on relatively level ground, but soon came to a point where we branched away and up a broad trail along the old aqueduct. The hike was almost totally uphill, a modest cardiovascular experience challenging our strength and endurance. But the natural woodland scenery along the way was well worth the effort, and with our very able and knowledgeable guide, Alessandro Tombelli, with us, it became a journey into the lush diversity of flora that graced our path on either side. Alessandro is an expert gardener and human storehouse of information about the plant life of Italy. We learned and marveled as much about the plants and trees around us as the occasional villas and historic structures we observed along the path. At one point, we stopped near a level clearing near a large agricultural field and enjoyed a panoramic view of old Orvieto in the distance.

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View of Orvieto in the distance from our trail.

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The end of our hike brought us to another parklike clearance with picnic tables among the shade of trees to enjoy a thoughtfully prepared snack of fresh fruit, bread, drinks, and other food items. It was a welcome and, for us, well-earned break. Conversational camaraderie here began to build the bonds of our group that would last for the rest of our tour. 

Following lunch, a very short walk to the nearby site of the well-preserved, hidden, 5th century BC underground tomb of an ancient Etruscan noble family, today known as the Hescanas Tomb, greeted the curiosity of our minds. The Hescanas Tomb is famed for the rich traces of fresco illustrations on its interior walls. Little is known about this, obviously wealthy noble family, other than the evidence indicating that it must have been an influential or well-regarded force in the area’s society in their time. The tomb was closed to us on this day, unfortunately, as it was temporarily closed off as necessary work was being performed in and around the tomb structure.   

From here, our group was transported to the modern town of Civita di Bagnoregio, where we enjoyed a large lunch in one of the town’s many choice restaurants, before proceeding on for a group walk through town to the entrance to the iconic old medieval town of the same name. Few towns in Italy can compare to the scenic eye-candy of this imposing hilltop settlement. From a distance, it is a breathtaking example of the quintessential hilltop settlement with roots reaching back to Etruscan times. Photographic images are immediately eye-catching, but this is a place that must be visited physically in person to capture the full magic of this ingenuous and imaginative architectural creation at the pinnacle of an almost skyscraper-like geologic formation.

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First view of Civita di Bagnoregio.

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Civita di Bagnoregio has to be earned: a long ascending walk to the breathtaking (literally) hilltop town.

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The church in the center of Civita di Bagnoregio was built during medeival times but the facade was remodeled during the Renaissance.

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To approach it and enter the gate of this citadel, one must traverse a long incline, a ramp-like suspended road construction that ends just before one winds around to the stone entrance gate. It is hard to get lost inside, for it is a small, simple settlement with a central church and medieval period houses that fill every square inch of its characteristically storybook visual  presence. This is a place, both outside and in, that any imaginative filmmaker would say was made for a jaw-dropping backdrop. 

A refreshing gelato punctuated my rest after the walk up to and through the gate to the towns central square, or piazza. Afterwards, it took me only 30 minutes to walk every square foot within its walled space, and at every interior edge of the site open to view was a magnificent view of the steep, cavernous, and verdant terrain surrounding it.

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Above and below: walking through Civita di Bagnoregio, one can see it is almost entirely medieval in its appearance.

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The view outward from the edge of the town.

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Interestingly, it has been called “the dying city”, as the underlying clay foundation of the rocky spur that supports the town is eroding much faster than the volcanic tufa stone above the clay, seriously undermining its continuing stability. Many years from now, unless measures are taken to rescue the town, its collapsed wonder will lie in ruins far below its present level. A sad future for a magnificent site.

 

Day 3: The Pilgrim’s Trail and Lake Bolsena

The Camino de Santiago pilgrims trail, also known as the Way of St. James, is Europe’s best known network of pilgrimage routes, leading to the shrine of the apostle James in Santiago de Compostela, Spain, where many believe the apostle James was ultimately buried. Somewhat less known but equally historic in its significance is the Via Francigena (“the road that comes from France”), an ancient pilgrimage route beginning at the Canterbury Cathedral in England and winding through France and Switzerland to Rome and then to Apulia, Italy, where the pilgrims would embark by sea for the Holy Land. In medieval times, this was the route used by those wishing to visit the Holy See and the tombs of the apostles Peter and Paul.  

It was on a portion of this route, beginning at San Lorenzo Nuovo, that we began our walk on the third day. Gloriously picturesque, the trail took us through lush woodland as well as past rich farmland bristling with crops. Many points afforded us a scenic overlook of Lake Bolsena in the distance. All the while, Alessandro pointed out the variety of flora along the way, educating us with fascinating botanical information we never would have absorbed or enjoyed on any other conventional tour. Near the end of our hike, we passed several of the many agriturismo villas (agriculturally based operations or activities that bring visitors to a farm or ranch), ending with our arrival to meet our van and its open doors revealing a new assortment of drinks and snacks to re-energize and refresh us for the coming hours. As it was, it served as a welcome appetizer to the following delectable lunch we enjoyed in a local restaurant in the waterside resort town of Bolsena. Here we ordered food we likely never would have thought to eat back in the U.S. And somehow, the view of the glistening blue water of the lake only a few feet from our table made my meal taste better, a kind of visual seasoning.

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Above and below: on the trail of the Via Francigena.

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On the Lake

Anyone visiting Bolsena should not leave before taking a boat ride on the lake, which is exactly what we did following our lunch. On this day in early autumn, few tourists could be seen near the lake and around the docks where we boarded our vessel — small but easily spacious enough to accommodate our small group, and a launching point completely free of the madding crowd one would typically contend with during the high season.

The pilot navigated us across the breadth of the entire lake, motoring us almost within a stone’s throw of two major islets, each featuring a portrait of rocky geologic formations and historic or ancient structures perched atop the edges of dramatic cliff faces soaring above the lapping lake water below. Archaeologists have discovered human settlements on these islets extending back to Etruscan times.

After the boat ride, we made our way back to our accommodations for the evening.

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Above and below: Islets in the lake.

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Day 4: An avenue of cave dwellings, a hike along a woodland trail, and a sojourn in scenic Sorano

Traveling toward Sovana, among Italy’s “most beautiful villages,” we entered and traversed a verdant landscape of deep volcanic gorges with narrow plateaus, stopping first to begin our hike along a trail that took us by the numerous cave dwellings of Vitozza. Many of them were inhabited during medieval times, and even before, as domestic dwellings by families. I tried to imagine families of men, women and children living in these cavernous places, warming themselves by their fires during the cold season and using them as shelter from the elements, including the radiant heat of the sun during the warm seasons. Today, of course, they are vacant and silent, but there was still a haunting spirit that seemed to hover invisibly over these spaces.

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Above and below: caves along the trail to Vitozza, the medieval town.

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Alessandro discussing one of the caves with the group.

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Our hike along the cave trail led us eventually to branch off steeply upward to reach an area where once stood a medieval village, featuring the remains of two castles and a church. Traces of domestic structures and other small structures that once stood around on either side of them were long gone with the ravages of time. Though I knew, as we walked through the long grass and across the rich soil of a surface still damp with the previous day’s rain, archaeological remains of their foundations and other associated artifacts likely still lay scattered beneath my feet — waiting to be discovered by some future excavation project. The mystery of it captured my imagination.

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Above and below: remains of the first castle encountered on the walk.

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Remains of the second castle.

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Above and below: the Chiesaccia, or Church of S. Bartolomeo, one of the churches built in Vitozza in the second half of the 13th century,

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We hiked carefully down from here over rocky surfaces still moist from yesterday’s rain to make our way to the Lente River far below us. On the way, we came across a fascinating medieval period columbarium. It is today silent and devoid of birds. But, given its considerable structure, it must have been a very lively and productive facility for the people who lived in the nearby community centuries ago. 

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The columbarium of Vitozza, just below and near the second castle remains.

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The Lente River is small. One could hardly think of it as a river. A good-sized creek would be more apt. But the lush, scenic woodland through which it wound and through which we traversed was a remarkable example of an almost fairytale-like forest environment that surrounded us. Stopping for a snack break of drinks and other hand-held tastes at a picnic table above the river was a welcome few moments for good conversation and a chance to put questions to Alessandro about the flora that enveloped us.

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Alessandro leads us down a tufa-cut passage.

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A view: hiking along the Lente.

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Sorano

Perhaps the biggest surprise of this journey for me was seeing the old village of Sorano. The motor coach approach from the end of our woodland river walk afforded a breathtaking view of a dramatic ancient-looking random assemblage of light-brown stone structures that straddled the steep slopes of a massive, craggy tufa spur. It was the kind of view one usually expects from a post card image that you know had to be doctored or photo shopped. But this was real. After enjoying a delicious three-course lunch in a local restaurant, we met with our local expert guide for the town walk. Carlo Rosati was a veritable storehouse of knowledge about Sorano, and he minced no words to convince me that this village was clearly one of Tuscany’s best kept secrets. It is not a well-known, high-demand tourist destination, but after seeing this place, I knew it should be — although to enjoy it, one needs to see it free of the press of any crowds. Words don’t do it justice, so included here are photographic images that illustrate what the written word cannot convey — though one has to see it in person to realize the full effect of the visual experience. 

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Above and below: views of old Sorano. Difficult to get enough of the visual historic splendor.

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Peering up at the massive Orsini Fortress of Sorano.

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Interior view of the Orsini Fortress.

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“Sorano is one of the most interesting villages for ‘touching’ the Middle Ages,” says Carlo.

Indeed, the face of this village oozes the Middle Ages at every step, and it is this time period that is best preserved and evident in Sorano. However, more than 2500 years ago Sorano was likely a Villanovan settlement, a culture and people thought to be the first phase of the Etruscan culture, which left its historical traces in Sorano around the 3rd century BC, when the village was under the influence of the larger nearby Etruscan period city of Sovana.

Little is known about Sorano during the Roman period, but it emerges into the written record in 862 under Emperor Louis II, under the Aldobrandeschi suzerainty. Later, under Romano di Gentile Orsini, it became part of the Orsini fiefdom. After which its prominent hilltop fortress, the remains of which can be seen and visited today, was named. The fortress was frequently attacked by competing powers in the region because of its strategic position. Walking through the fortress overwhelmed me with its massive presence, and it was easy to see how the community could withdraw into the interior space of the structure during times of conflict and siege.

The village eventually became part of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. 

Sorano had a significant jewish community during the Medieval period, and the remains of the structures that constituted its quarter within the village were well preserved, making our walk feel almost like a flashback into a time and space that never really vanished.

We ended the day with a retreat to our luxury accommodations at the resort in Sovana, with evening dining at a distinctive local restaurant, where special dishes gave us a taste of the unique fare it had to offer its guests. 

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Day 5: Sovana: The Vie Cava and Cities of the Dead

Embarking early, we joined Carlo on a hike into the world of the Etruscans. This was a journey that relatively few people take, because it was an exploration of a largely unwritten and lesser-known story of ancient engineering. The area in which the towns of Sorano, Sovana,and Pitigliano, all neighboring settlements, is defined to a great extent by curious winding paths or passages known widely as Vie Cave (road and quarry), which were literally cut through the soft tufa stone, creating deep gorge-like trails framed on either side by high walls of the tufa stone. They were originally cut by the Etruscans, or even earlier peoples, and then continued to be cut or defined by later groups of people. Coined as the Hollow Paths by Carlo in his book, The Etruscans and the Hollow Paths*, these paths often mark passageways between and among the ancient rock-hewn burial chambers and tombs of the Etruscans, ancient features that equally define the area in abundance.

Carlo led us through some of these hollow paths, and along-side numerous shallow caves, clearly man-made to function as burial chambers or tombs for their dead, some larger and more elaborate than others, but all empty and silent. And if one listened very closely, one could almost hear the faint whispers of the dead calling us beckoningly from their earthly domiciles as we passed.

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Above and below: rock-cut cave tombs of the Etruscans.

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Our hike on this terrain, in the cool of the morning with the ground still wet and in places slippery from the overnight rain, eventually took us through the dramatic ancient (originally Etruscan) rock-cut tufa paths of the Via Cava de San Sebastiano to one of Sovana’s best-known Etruscan rock-hewn tombs, the Ildebranda Tomb.

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Above and below: the Vie Cava de San Sebastiano.

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Our group leader Alessandro leads the way through. He is pictured here for scale.

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Carlo, our guest historian, leads us down a Vie Cava path.

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Set and carved deeply and ornately into the tufa, it sat high on the face of one of the many rocky spurs that surround Sovana, Sorano and Pitigliano, overlooking the verdant craggy landscape beneath it. From our elevated perspective we could see the living town of Sovana in the near distance, despite the misty cloud cover in-between. Heavily eroded over more than 2200 years, the vestiges of this tomb’s original architectural appearance gave visual clues to how elaborate and decorative its facade was in its heyday.

“During this time period, the Etruscans built their tombs with the decorative element on the exterior, while the tomb interiors were plain and simple,” said Carlo. This was in contrast to many other Etruscan tombs of note, such as the famous painted tombs at Tarquinia, which featured elaborate decorative elements and wall paintings/frescoes in their interiors, with much plainer exteriors.

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Above and below: the Ildebranda Tomb.

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We proceeded down ancient steps and entered the tomb interior. Although spacious, it was dark and simple, and one could easily see where the body of the dead once laid within the sarcophagus, now absent, upon a raised section of the tomb interior. The last marks of the pick-axes used by the ancients to carve out the chamber from the tufa could still be seen on the walls and ceiling.

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Article Supplement

Who were the Etruscans?

The Etruscans were an ancient people who inhabited current day central Italy from around 900 BC to roughly 100 BC. They possessed a common language and culture but governed themselves independently through federations of city-states (three confederacies in all: Etruria (today’s Tuscany, Latium and Umbria), the Po Valley with the eastern Alps, and the area known today as Campania. At its greatest extent, Etruria covered what is now Tuscany, western Umbria, northern Lazio, the Po ValleyEmilia-Romagna, south-eastern Lombardy, southern Veneto, and western Campania.

The Etruscans were an indigenous population stemming from the Iron Age Villanovan culture, which developed out of the late Bronze Age Proto-Villanovan culture, part of the central European Urnfield culture system. The Etruscans dominated the Italian peninsula until the rise of Rome in the late 4th century BC. By 27 BC, the Etruscan territory was incorporated into the Roman Empire.

In the Etruscan political system, authority resided in its individual city-states, ruled by prominent families. In the hey-day of their power, the elite Etruscan families became very wealthy through trade with the Celts to the north and the Greeks to the south. Evidence for this was uncovered through archaeological excavations that uncovered large family tombs with luxury objects imported from Greece and other contemporaneous civilizations.

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Etruscan bronze chariot, circa 6th century BC. As exhibited in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Rogers Fund, 1903. CCO 1.0 Universal, Wikimedia Commons

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Etruscan helmet. As exhibited in the National Archaeological Museum of Tarquinia.

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Etruscan painted tomb, excavated and preserved in Tarquinia, Italy.

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Because the Etruscan script and language remains largely undeciphered and elusive, any accurate written history of the Etruscans is sketchy, and most of what we know about them is derived from archaeological investigations, especially of the many tombs and the artifacts found within them.

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We ascended the steps out of the tomb into the pouring rain. This did not stop us from ascending more to another nearby tomb site, yet another iconic space carved from the tufa stone about 2300 years ago. Known as the Tomb of the Winged Demons, much of its facade has been lost or eroded away with time, but its elaborate decorative character still stands out, with its visual elements at least partially protected under a roof-shroud construction overhead. More evident as compared to the Ildebrand Tomb, this tomb afforded us a fascinating yet mystery-shrouded glimpse into the Etruscan concept of death, the afterlife and their vision of the Underworld. These winged figures, often referred to as ‘demons’ (though not in the conventional sense of demons as defined today) are usually a part of Etruscan funerary art and often associated with the goddess Vanth, a being connected to death and the underworld. Carlo gave us a rich and detailed interpretation of the iconography as it related to the mythology and religion of this ancient people. Unlike what we know about Greek and Roman religion and mythology, however, the Etruscan equivalent still remains comparatively vague.

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Above and below: facade and its associated elements of the Tomb of the Winged Demons.

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The Excavation

The region surrounding Sorano, Sovana and Pitigliano is a land rich in archaeological treasure, excavated and still-to-be excavated. The buried history spans more than 3,000 years, extending as far back as the Neolithic and even before civilization as we conventionally define it — Paleolithic times. But research has focused mostly on the human story here ranging between about 900 BC up to and through Renaissance times. We had the privilege of meeting with Dr. Luca Nejrotti, an archaeologist who has been conducting a field school excavation at the local site of “la Biagiola,” a multi-layered site that recently has yielded evidence of occupation by the Lombards, a germanic people who conquered and controlled most of the Italian peninsula between 568 and 774 AD, as well as evidence of occupation in other time periods. Our plans included visiting the actual excavation site, though rainy weather conditions precluded us from seeing the site. Nonetheless, a very fine little museum in Sovana showcased some of the artifacts recovered from the site, and it was in this location where Nejrotti addressed our group with an extremely informative review of the excavations and the major findings to date.

Day 6: Along the ancient trail, and Pitigliano

By the time we began to hike the trail from Sovana to Pitigliano, we had become accustomed to the surface irregularities and the ascending and descending nature of the paths. As before, the rock-cut passage in places was a reminder of the labor and care the ancients had taken to blaze their travel and connections through the terrain from each point or tomb to another, and from one significant location to another. In places it was like walking through a cavern with no ceiling, the space high above us open to the sky and the ground and walls around us like a work of nature’s sculptor.
We met others along the way — a couple from Germany and an Italian family, the children at nearly a jog along a surface that required good walking sticks for older explorers.

After a delectable three-course lunch with fine Tuscan wines in Pitigliano, Carlo led us on a highly informative walk of this breathtakingly picturesque medieval hilltop town. Originally an Etruscan settlement, it is the largest of the trio of towns in this historic and ancient region. While every inch of street and historic construction captured my imagination, three sites stood prominently out for me. The first was the Duomo di Pitigliano; Cattedrale dei Santi Pietro e Paolo), a Roman Catholic cathedral dedicated to the Saints Peter and Paul. The cathedral exterior facade was impressive enough, until one steps inside, and then it is easy to see why the structure is a must-see when visiting this town. Restored in 1692–1702, its majestic interior space features a 1717 Baroque altar, an altarpiece in the choir depicting the Enthroned Madonna with Saints Peter and Francis (dated to 1494) by Guidoccio Cozzarelli and, painted in 1885, two large paintings by Pietro Aldi — Henry IV at Canossa and the Life of Ildeprando in Sovana. Pitigliano was also home to a flourishing Jewish community, consisting mostly of people fleeing from Rome during the Counterreformation persecutions. It was fascinating to see the rendered caves in which they worked and lived, which includes a ritual Passover matzoh bakery. But the big story about this community was how, because of the newly promulgated racial laws under Nazi influence, the community is said to have escaped capture with the help of  Christian neighbors. We had the opportunity to step into the ornately designed 1995-restored synagogue of 1598 (although containing furnishings of the 17th and 18th centuries). I felt a reverence their unlike any other structure I entered during the walk.

Perhaps less known but equally fascinating was a small section of the town that had been preserved to showcase the archaeological excavations and research that had taken place here over the years. Although what we saw in this section represented only a small slice of what likely remained hidden and buried beneath throughout the town, it served as a reminder of the long history of occupation here, going back to at least early Etruscan times.

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Panoramic view of Pitigliano. Shadow Fixing, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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The Duomo di Pitigliano (Pitigliano Cathedral).

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Typical street view in Pitigliano.

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A Unique Journey

When contemplating a getaway to Italy, I admit that my first thoughts revolved around seeing the iconic sites best known in the popular travel literature — places like the Colosseum, Pantheon and the Vatican in Rome, the great Duomo and Renaissance sites and art in Florence, the canals of Venice, the ancient remains of Pompeii, and the majestic lines and ocean views of the Amalfi coast. Without detracting from those incomparable sites, however, I found a more intimate and enriching and deeply satisfying magic in walking the countryside and getting ‘up close and personal’ with the ‘lesser known’ historic dream-like presence of the smaller settlements that define the heart of Italy. Not its magnificence, but its indescribable charm and warm allure that made, at least for me, an experience unlike any other traveling I had ever endeavored. The smaller group of traveling companions created a sense of camaraderie and ‘family’, if you will, that I could never obtain with the larger groups in which I previously traveled. Indeed, exploring this little group of people constantly around me on a daily basis was as much of an adventure as the sites and landscapes we traversed. And the act of bringing a mind-and-body healthy hike or walk to its completion each day along a verdant and historic path afforded a unique sense of endorphin-rich achievement.

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For readers who may be interested in joining a walking tour like this, see the Wayfaring Walks website for more information about the many other walks they offer around the world. Readers who are interested in the subject tour of this article (Etruscan Hilltop Towns) may find more information and a special discount offer for this tour at this page. Whatever walk you may choose, it is no exaggeration to say that I think you will find it to be a trip of a lifetime.

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The Guides

Indispensable to the experience is the educational and daily support elements the guides and special guest-lecturers bring to Wayfaring Walks journeys. On a daily basis, Alessandro Tombelli, our tour leader, and Andrea Formaleoni, our tour manager, brought their expertise to bear on making the Etruscan Hilltop Towns walk a stimulating, smooth, and stress-free experience. Along the way special guest lecturer/leaders like Carlo Rosati (Sorano, Sovana and Pitigliano) and Luca Nejrotti (Sovana) provided detailed, mind-enriching reviews of topics and places that only they could convey.

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Comments from tour participants

“I love the pace of the travel and the size of the group.  The walk leader and walk manager are also a key part of Wayfaring travel.  They are always adults with life experiences of their own and have a lot to offer.  It is a different experience entirely than being led by college kids, which other walking groups often use.”

— Wendy Kersman

“I loved the walks in the beautiful countryside.  That’s an absolute requirement for any of the walks I take.  But I think the historian and archaeologist who joined us gave a depth and context to the experience that was special and wonderful…..and the staff that accompanies the walks, the care and thoughtfulness taken in designing the walks, and the quality of the accommodations and food.”

— Laura Godown

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*Rosati, Carlo, The Etruscans and the Hollow Paths, Moroni Editor, April 2013.

Cover Image, Top Left: Panoramic view of Pitigliano. Shadow Fixing, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

 

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Milos, Greece’s Unsung Ancient Island Paradise

Brienne Walsh is a writer currently based in Savannah, Georgia. She has contributed to publications including The New York Times, Forbes, Marketwatch, CNN, Artsy and Departures. She is also a part-time professor at the Savannah College of Art and Design, where she teaches a class on art criticism.

As you age — I am currently 41 — you realize that the most profound moments in your life will likely pass you by without taking note that they are happening. The first time you really, truly, fall in love, for example. The first time you experience heartbreak. The last time you feel your child kick in your belly or the feeling of carrying her while she is sleeping. The only time you experience the Platonic Ideal of the ocean, when you swim in water so clear and blue that no other swim you ever take in your brief time on earth will ever compare.

The latter happened for me in the Aegean Sea just off the cost of Milos, a Greek volcanic island just north of the Sea of Crete. It was a Saturday morning in October, 2022. I boarded a sailboat in Adamantas, the main port on the island. The town is defined by the square and rectangularly shaped, whitewashed architecture typically characteristic of the Greek islands, and is full of small cafes serving ouzo with ice and French fries.

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Above and below: Detailed views of the picturesque Saint Haralambos Adamantas Holy Orthodox Church in Adamantas, which can be reached easily on foot, a short walk from the many restaurants that grace the nearby shore.

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The sailboat, which is owned by the tourism company Thalassitra Sailing, was filled with dozens of other tourists from all over the world. I was lucky to find a spot with my traveling companion on the deck under a raised, supported tarp that provided shade from the sun, which blazed hot despite the time of year.

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A view from beneath the overhead tarp of the boat.

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I confess that I had low expectations for this experience. I generally don’t like being on a boat. A lifelong New Yorker, I moved with my family to Savannah, Georgia, in 2020. In our first year in Savannah, which is surrounded by saltwater marshes, my husband bought a membership to a boat club. We spent many stressful days with our two young kids on a rented boat, navigating the wind and narrow channels of the marshes of our new home in unbearable heat and humidity. On a particularly bad day, my husband misread the tides and got us stuck on a sand bank for eight hours. Our only companions beyond immediate family during that trip were a pair of Atlantic sharp nose sharks hungrily feeding in the shallow waters where we were marooned. Our only sustenance were soggy sandwiches from Publix.

As a result of our short foray into boating, I came to see boats as hot, uncomfortable and headache-inducing crafts. How could a boat ride in Milos be any better, especially given that it was a full day trip, costing 220 euros, with a significant number of couples looking to get drunk, along with an Instagram influencer who recorded every second of the trip with a GoPro?

I saw one silver lining. The water surrounding Milos is turquoise, and clear. If nothing else, I thought, the views would be beautiful.

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From the shore, the ocean looked like some version of what I have seen in the Caribbean. Clear waters in shades of blue that beg the use of a thesaurus — not just blue or turquoise, but azure, cerulean, lapis lazuli, “the color of the sea.” I saw such waters in the U.S. Virgin Islands, where I traveled on an apocalyptic trip with my insane family during college, and in Miami, which I had visited for Art Basel when I was writing art criticism. Milos has the sort of water that draws people to spend their yearly savings on a cruise. The sort of water that inspires rapturous re-awakenings during midlife crises.

Back to this boat ride later….

The Sites

The water was visible from every point on Milos, which I had spent two days exploring with my able guide, Averkios, who had been born and raised on the island. Bolstered by cigarettes and little glass bottles of Tsipouro, which he drank with water on ice every time I stopped for a meal, Averkios kept me busy to the point of exhaustion. 

Bronze Age ruins and walking on the moon

Averkios showed us every cultural touchstone and hidden gem on the island, a landmass 58 square miles large. We started at Phylakopi, an ancient Bronze Age settlement set on a cliff on the north shore. This site, unknown to most people, was in its day one of the most significant Cycladic urban centers of its time.

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The site today, to an undiscerning eye, looks something like a jumble of rocks. It takes considerable imagination to imagine it inhabited. Wandering through it with Averkios on narrow paths marked by lines of rope, I marveled most at the walls in the settlement that remained standing. Looking at the dry, barren landscape around Phylakopi, I wondered how far the humans, who were likely part of the Minoan civilization, ventured inland, if at all. To them, did the island seem big?

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Above and below: some of the ancient walls of Phylakopi can still be easily discerned.

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Above and below: Sarakiniko.

Just down the coast, we walked the “moonscape” that is Sarakiniko Beach, which was formed by the erosion of white volcanic rocks.

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The beach gave me a clue to why I was about to experience the best swim of my life, although I didn’t realize it at the time. There was no sand. Instead, visitors to the beach rested against hard white rocks, as if they were on a ‘moon vacation’. Swimmers lounged in a calm cove formed by erosion. At the edge of the beach, daredevils jumped from a high rock into deep waters while crowds of onlookers watched them.

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The beach, I noted, was crowded with couples, many of them seemingly on their honeymoons.

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Young, beautiful people lethargic in the heat. Many of them arrived together on rented mopeds, in perfectly appointed clothing.

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Just outside the crowded beachcomber’s area, the Sarakiniko landscape continues to evoke an otherworldly sense.

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Watching them, I missed my own husband acutely. Not as we are today, after ten years of marriage, but as we were when we first met and fell in love, before we had kids. I wished that I could bring myself and him to Sarakiniko. In our young bodies. So that we, too, could rent a moped and spend a day lounging on the ‘moon’.

Melos

A short drive away from Sarakiniko lie the ruins of the ancient city of Melos, which was first overtaken by the Greeks during the Peloponnesian war in the fourth century BC, and later settled by the Romans, who built an amphitheater here out of marble overlooking the main bay of the island.

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The Roman ruins had been plundered for centuries by the locals for building materials, but it is still possible to see the incredible work it took to build a symmetrical amphitheater out of marble on a steep hillside. Averkios, who has lived with the ruins his whole life, chatted on his phone while I wandered about the remains taking photographs, moved by what, to us, was a marvel beyond comprehension.

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The author with Averkios on the steps of the amphitheater, shown here for scale.

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Venus

Only a short hike uphill from the amphitheater is a dry, weed-covered space that would go unnoticed by any by-passer if it was not for the fact that in this spot, over 200 years ago, one of the world’s most famous works of art was discovered by a local farmer. The farmer, it is rumored, was looking for materials for his house. Pulling aside a slab of marble, he came upon a cave in which was buried the Venus de Milo, in pieces, along with less impressive sculptures. Recognizing an opportunity, the farmer sold the Venus de Milo to a French naval officer, who was docked in the bay at the time. The naval officer took the statute back to Paris, where he gifted it to Louis XVIII. Louis XVIII, in turn, gifted it to the Louvre, where it is still exhibited to this day. (“A nice statue, but that is all,” sniffed Averkios when I asked him if he thought the statue was worth its hype.)

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The approach to the Venus de Milo discovery site.

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The original Venus de Milo, as exhibited in the Louvre. Shonagon, CC0 1.0 Universal, Wikimedia Commons

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Klima

The Venus de Milo discovery site was also near the catacombs where the Christians, who likely buried it (as it was a pagan icon), laid their own dead to rest in the first millennium A.D. We visited these catacombs, as well. They are considered to be among the most important and earliest Christian catacombs and places of worship in the world. Nearby, the charming, picturesque modern seaside village of Klima, marked by bright, rainbow-colored doorways leading directly to the ocean, was only steps away.

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Above and below: early christian tombs in the catacombs of Milos. Zde, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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Above and below: the enchanting picturesque fishing village of Klima.

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Plaka

Averkios did not stop with us there. We also hiked the steep inclines of Plaka, the capitol town of Milos, which is full of winding streets, fuchsia bougainvillea and cute little shops. Crowned by a Venetian castle built in the 13th century and abandoned in the 19th century, Plaka is famous for its sunset views as seen from its heights. It is also a wonderful place to get a leg workout given that the climb to the Venetian castle requires ascending over 200 steps — and then descending them.

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Plaka, as viewed from the Venetian ‘castle’.

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Above and below: the streets of Plaka

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A notable stop during our tour was the Milos War Museum, which is housed in a former World War II bunker built by locals forced into labor by the occupying Nazi party. The museum, which was spooky and damp, is personally maintained by Averkios, who fished the key to the front door out from behind a rock near the entrance. Inside, the museum is filled with memorabilia from the world wars, as well as photographs of local families, most of whom Averkios could identify by name.

Eating….and feral cats

During our journey, we only sat down to drive to a new location, or for lunch. On the first day, we ate at the Medusa restaurant, where we feasted on whole grilled anchovies and swordfish kebabs on a terrace overlooking the ocean. Nearby was Mandrakia, yet another picturesque fishing village marked by colorful stairways.

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The view from the Medusa.

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On the second day, we ate at Kyra Milos, on a terrace at the base of the steps leading up to the Archaeological Museum of Milos. There, I ate so much baked feta and fresh pita that I swore I would go home 10 pounds heavier than I arrived. Averkios drank his Tsipouro and feasted on French fries. My traveling companion, harangued by feral cats, was rewarded for feeding one by a fierce bite on the hand. It’s been a long time since humans have worshipped the ancient Greek gods, and maybe those feral cats are inhabited by the spirits of those we have forgotten, hungry for respect more so than they are for table scraps.

A small museum with a big treasure

The Archaeological Museum of Milos, where a plaster copy of the Venus de Milo currently resides, is a small institution full of treasures that in other, less remote museums, would draw crowds. Along with cases full of Bronze Age jewelry, there is the Lady of Phylakopi, a terracotta statue that depicts a female figure, likely a priestess or a goddess, who lends credence to the idea that the ancient inhabitants of Milos were ruled by women.

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Milos Archaeological Museum. WORD TEACH, Public Domain, Wikimedia Commons

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Lady of Phylakopi. Zde, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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Above and below: Pottery and clay artifacts discovered at Phylakopi.

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Born of fire

The Greek islands have a complex geological history. Many of them were formed by a collision that occurred 50 million years ago when the African plate collided with the Eurasian plate, forming, among many other landmasses, the Alps. These islands consist of limestone and marble. Milos, like nearby Santorini, was formed from volcanic eruptions that first appeared in the archaeological record 1.5 million years ago and continued intermittently until roughly 3,600 years ago. This final eruption likely led to the end of Minoan society and may account for the reason why humans abandoned Phylakopi for ancient Melos, which is on the opposite shore of the island. 

The volcanic eruptions led to landmasses that were mineral rich and sediment-lite, bad for farming but great for mining. Milos has been a site for mining resources since Neolithic times, when humans first discovered obsidian used for tools and barter. In the 20th century, Milos was mined — to the detriment of its local population, who worked in slavery-like conditions — for bentonite, baryte, kaolin and manganese, which are used for industrial production. The history of Milos as a mining center is meticulously preserved in the Milos Mining Museum, which was located just a few short blocks from the clean and comfortable rooms Dan and I slept in, (for the rate of just over 80 euros each a night, near the center of Adamantas).

An unexpected side effect of this mineral rich landscape, which I was to discover on our sailboat trip, was a lack of run-off from the land. There is no sand or sediment in the water. No murk, no vegetation. Instead, even far off the coast of Milos, in ocean hundreds of feet deep, the ocean floor is white volcanic rock. Sea life is not teaming there, no coral. The sunlight, when it reflects upon the white rock, creates that polyonymous blue water. The stuff of legend. The stuff that makes you believe that gods are real, and nymphs might lurk in caves below the ocean.

Return to sailing in paradise

As we crept out into the ocean on the sailboat, I felt apprehension. I have a healthy, primal fear of the ocean born from respect for its power. But also, to be clear, firsthand knowledge that sharks live in the ocean, along with other creatures that no one can see in the muddy waters of the northern Atlantic Ocean that I was most familiar with most of my life. I knew that I would be expected to swim in the ocean in Milos, but I didn’t want to. I was afraid. The volcanic rock formations, which distinguished and dominated the coast like sand castles made by giant children dripping sand from clenched fists, were intimidating. When we pulled up alongside a rock formation that looked like it had been formed from crystals and then covered in cement, I wondered if anyone would notice if I stayed on the boat.

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Volcanic rock formations along the coastline.

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But I forced myself to take a snorkel and dive into the water. It was October, but it was hot. Even still, the ocean had cooled as if in anticipation of the onset of for the coming winter. The cold was a shock, but it felt perfect after baking in the sun. I swam near the volcanic rock formation, staying close to the other passengers on the boat. With them, I swam into a cave. The water was creature free and clear. I threw my arms up in a shower of sunlight. My traveling companion captured a picture of my joy. I posted it on Instagram with a caption that made me think that I might be embarrassed by it later.

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This first swim was only a preview. The next stop was the deep waters just off Polyaegos, an island inhabited only by goats. There, the rock formations were white and burnt sienna. They looked like a piece of marble in a billionaire’s entrance hallway. The ocean beneath the boat was hundreds of feet deep. And it was totally clear.

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I descended on a ladder from the boat into the water. And it was there that I experienced a perfect swim for the first — and perhaps the last time — in my life.

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I’m someone who, consciously or not, is always on the quest for perfection. Perfection in food, perfection in art, perfection in the things I write and the clothes I wear. Perfection in the way I interact with the world. But perfection is, as anyone with a brain can tell you, elusive, and almost always singular. In the past, when I’ve thought that I was about to experience perfection, I’ve been disappointed. In the Caribbean, the water looks perfect, but like most ocean water, it is full of seaweed, and other ocean plants. It is full of rocks and sand that interfere with the notion of “completely clear.” In the water of Polyaegos, there was no interference. Only the sheer white and orange cliffs, and beneath my body, an ocean that was nothing but ocean. The physical embodiment of perfect water. A platonic ideal.

I knew, even if I came to Milos again, I might never find that water again. So, I enjoyed it.

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I stayed in the water until my whole body was shaking from feeling cold. I floated on my back. I put my face in the ocean and watched the fish, which were few, swim. I followed other tourists near to the cliffs and back to the boat. There, we were treated to a lunch of moussaka, Greek salad and other delights. After swimming in the perfect cold water, I was ravenous.

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There are thousands of Greek islands you can visit. All of them gorgeous, I’m sure, although I’ve only been to Milos. Even still, if I ever go back to Greece, I’ll go to Milos again. And not only for the clear ocean. It’s the fact that Phylakopi might have been the center of a matriarchal society. I learned this from a local archaeologist, Pavlos Kotronakis, who noted that both the female icons found buried at the site, as well as the lack of armaments, led many historians to surmise that women ruled the settlement. I could feel those women all over the island. I could feel them in the water. It was safe there. The people who lived in Phylakopi did not build battlements to keep themselves safe from intruders — or from waves. What did they do differently from us today besides settle on an island with an ocean so pure? 

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Mycenaean fortifications, south of the top of the Archeological site in Phylakopi. Late Bronze Age. View from west. Zde, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International, Wikimedia Commons

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The boat trip lasted many hours. We followed the coastline of Milos, sailing around its many hidden coves and beaches, some of them only accessible from ladders thrown off the tops of cliffs.

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We saw the sites of abandoned mines. We saw the circular rock formations and caves of Kleftiko, which served as a hideout and vantage point for pirates up until the 19th century.

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Above and below: the spectacular formations of Kleftico.

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Many of us embarked from the main boat into smaller boats and, guided and piloted by the main sailboat crew, explored more closely the coves and crevices of the amazing formations. The image below was taken within a sea-cave looking out toward the opening to the sea.

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I swam a few more times, though none of the swims were the same as the one off Polyaegos. None will be the same ever again, I believe. I recently traveled to Turks & Caicos, whose turquoise waters are world famous. But this was my first thought when I dove into the ocean there, which was alive with coral reefs and plant life….  

“This is beautiful, but it’s not Milos.”

 

Cover Image, Top Left: Milos. olleaugust, Pixabay

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If you liked this article, you may like The Forgotten City, a more in-depth story of the archaeological site of ancient Phylakopi, published at Popular Archaeology on July 1, 2023.

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The Ten Tombs

Few cities and regions of the world can match the significance and draw of Jerusalem with the public and scholars alike. In this ancient city, some of the world’s most defining historical events and figures have played out their stories, influencing generations through the ensuing centuries, especially concerning religious beliefs and practices. It therefore goes without saying that historical and archaeological research and publication related to the salient events and figures of historical Jerusalem and its regional context have taken on intense popular interest, as well as some intense scholarly and ecclesiastical debate. The cultural, emotional and ‘spiritual’ roots run deep.

Dr. James Tabor, one of the world’s foremost academic authorities on the Late Second Temple period (aka the Herodian period) Judaism and early Christianity, has offered a new video series he entitles “Jesus Archaeology”. Free to the public, the series focuses on how ancient texts, historical and archaeological sites, and ancient artifacts shed light on the rise of Christianity and the context in which it occurred. It also explores the period extending from at least 100 years before the time of Jesus through the century in which his crucifixion occurred. Of particular note here is video no. 1, entitled Ten Jerusalem Tombs from the Time of Jesus (See complete video below). Here, Tabor reviews and summarizes, with photographic images and illustrations, ten extraordinary burial cave tomb discoveries in the Old City area that relate to the context and events around the time of the Late Second Temple, the time period where Jesus enters the flow of time as it is now documented in historical and biblical records.

The Ossuary of Caiaphas

As is known to many who have a knowledge of the events as accounted in the Canonical gospels of the New Testament, Joseph, son of Caiaphas, presided as High Priest over the trial of Jesus before his crucifixion. A number of scholars suggest that an ornate ossuary (stone box that carries bones of the deceased), discovered with 11 other ossuaries in a tomb accidentally revealed through construction work south of Jerusalem in 1990, contained the skeletal remains of Joseph. Although the identification of the find has been subject to scholarly dispute, the discovery is one of the most important material objects relating to the times in which Jesus lived. Decorated with very ornate etchings — a practice usually reserved for a high status individual — the ossuary contained collectively the remains of two infants, two teenage boys, an adult woman and a man around 60 years old. Scholars suggest that the remains of the 60-year-old man was probably Joseph, son of Caiaphas, as the ossuary exterior was inscribed “Yehosef bar Qayafa” on the long side and “Yehosef bar Qafa” on the narrow side. 

The tomb and the ossuary of Caiaphas that it contained is one example among 9 other tomb discoveries Tabor discusses in the first installment of his video series. Each discovery excites the imagination in equal measure, providing a fascinating window on the lives and times of First Century Jerusalem, a critical and tumultuous period in religious history.

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The Ossuary of Caiaphas, the High Priest. Note the name inscription on one side. BRBurton, CCO 1.0 Universal, Wikimedia Commons

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Detail view of the Caiaphas ossuary inscription. BRBurton, CCO 1.0 Universal, Wikimedia Commons

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Following is a summary of the tomb discoveries Tabor discusses:

  1. The Ossuary of Yehonatan ben Yeshua (Jonathan son of Yeshua) — This is an ornately inscribed but unprovenanced bone box that came into the possession of Tabor and which awaits publication and return to the collection under management of the Israel Antiquities Authority.
  2. The Ossuary of Caiaphas (summarized above).
  3. The Tomb of Bethphage on the Mount of Olives — A tomb with a circular rolling blocking stone at its entrance. The tomb features early Christian ‘graffiti’ on an internal wall surface. It is suggested by Tabor as a likely candidate for the first (temporary) tomb in which Jesus was laid directly after his crucifixion (not to be confused with the second, more permanent tomb belonging to Joseph of Arimathea as mentioned in the Gospel account).
  4. The Tomb of the Shroud in Hinnom Valley — Located just south of Jerusalem, this tomb was looted when first encountered by Tabor and archaeologist colleague Shimon Gibson. Here, skeletal remains and an intact burial shroud was found within the tomb, a very rare discovery. Also a first, the skeletal remains revealed the deceased suffered from advanced leprosy. The shroud was carbon dated to the 1st century AD.
  5. The Talpiot “Jesus Family” Tomb — First discovered during clearing of the area of Talpiot south of Jerusalem for construction of condominiums in 1980, this tomb contained 10 ossuaries. Six of the ossuaries were inscribed with names identifiable with names known to be associated with Jesus and his family, including the name of Jesus himself.
  6. The Talpiot “Resurrection Tomb” — Discovered just steps away from the “Jesus Family Tomb” and now situated beneath a condominium, this tomb was initially investigated but subsequently re-explored 25 years after its discovery by a team using a robotic arm and camera device. The tomb contained ossuaries with inscribed images and inscriptions relating (by interpretation) to the raising of the dead, or resurrection.
  7. The James Ossuary — This famous ossuary, and the story behind it, featured the inscription, “James, son of Joseph, brother of Jesus”.  It was brought to light in 2002 from an antiquities dealer and from the beginning became the center of a debate firestorm. Recent geochemical studies have shown that the ossuary likely originally came from the “Jesus Family Tomb” described above.
  8. The Ossuary of Simon and son Alexandros — One of a number of ossuaries discovered through excavation in 1941 of a tomb by archaeologists in the Kidron Valley near Jerusalem. It featured inscriptions of the names of Simon the Cyrenian (suggested to be the Simon of Cyrenia of the New Testament biblical account), and his son Alexandros.
  9. The Abba Tomb — This tomb was found just north of Jerusalem in 1970. It is where Abba, son of Eliza the Priest, and Mattathia son of Judah were buried. Tabor suggests that this Mattathia (Matthew) was in fact the last Maccabean (Hasmonean) king, Antigonus (aka Mattathia or Mathew). The ossuary associated with Antigonus contained nails used for crucifixion, along with skeletal remains.
  10. The Tomb of Yehochanan — This tomb was found north of Jerusalem not far from the Abba tomb in 1968. It contained the remains of a man who, based on the evidence found in the tomb, was crucified. The evidence uncovered provided new insights on how individuals were crucified during the Late Second Temple period in Jerusalem.
  11. Cave 2001 at Masada — In the 1960’s archaeologists found 25 skeletons of men, women and children who were once living in a cave at the southern tip of the summit of Masada near the Dead Sea during the time of the famous siege of Masada. Suggested to have been among the defenders of Masada during the siege, Tabor theorizes that they were the remains of what was left of the Hasmonean priestly royal family based on DNA analysis.

Tabor hopes to realize future DNA analysis of embedded residues within ossuaries such as those described here to develop family profiles for further study.

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The James ossuary. Paradiso, Wikimedia Commons

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Inscription detail, James ossuary. Paradiso, Wikimedia Commons

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Aerial view of Masada. Samirsmier, Pixabay

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For more details about the “Jesus Family Tomb” and the “Resurrection Tomb”, see the article, In Search of the Historical Jesus, previously published in Popular Archaeology Magazine.

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The Pompeii of Bronze Age Greece

It would be no exaggeration to say that this ancient city could be described as the Pompeii of Bronze Age Greece. Devastated during the massive eruption of the Thera volcano in the 16th century BCE, like the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum in present-day Italy many centuries later, it was destroyed yet miraculously preserved, as if frozen in time. Excavated thousands of years after the Thera eruption, it has joined the world’s short-list of the most spectacular archaeological discoveries of all time…. 

Akrotiri of Thera

The Mediterranean Greek island of Santorini, anciently known as Thera, hosts an estimated 2 million visitors a year. As an island in the southern Aegean Sea, it lies about 120 miles southeast of the Greek mainland. It is the largest island within an archipelago of the Cyclades, a group of islands south of Greece and north of Crete. It is best known for its volcanic history, and the great, water-filled caldera that bestows the location its defining characteristic. It is also known for its many attractions as a tourist destination, but perhaps most fascinating of all are the incredible archaeological remains of the nearly 7,000-year-old settlement of Akrotiri, the center of a maritime Cycladic civilization that flourished most prominently during the 16th century BCE. Trade relations established with other Aegean cultures and civilizations that ringed the Mediterranean proved to be the engine of its growth, especially that of the copper trade. It became an important center for processing copper, based on the artifacts discovered at the site. The city prospered as a major center for at least 500 years. Excavations have revealed—along with thousands of artifacts—paved streets, an extensive drainage system, sophisticated pottery, and a masterful array of some of the earliest fresco wall paintings of the Bronze Age. In fact, the culture of Akrotiri was so sophisticated for its time that some historians and scholars have attributed the ancient city as a possible historic basis for the later legend of Plato’s lost Atlantis. The city came to its end between 1620 and 1530 BCE with the eruption of the Thera volcano. 

Here is a sneak peek of some of the images you will see in a forthcoming photographic pictorial of the ancient site’s stunning remains….

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Top Image: Minoan fresco of a maritime scene at Akrotiri. Public Domain, Wikimedia Commons

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The Grandeur of it All: A Pictorial

If you have not personally visited the iconic Acropolis in Athens, Greece, you may have a mind’s-eye image of what it might be like to walk about its space, perched high in central Athens with breathtaking views of the city below and around the “rock”, as it is often called. Most of us have only experienced it remotely through books, magazines and on the internet.

But nothing can compare to an up-close-and-personal visit. Slowly scaling the verticality of my managed approach to the summit, I became surprised and  overwhelmed by how massive the ancient structural remains actually were, compared to the image I had harbored so long in my mind. 

Here, for anyone’s enjoyment, are a few photographic images of the great Acropolis experience. 

But may I offer a bit of my own advice….take the time and resources to see it for yourself, as nothing can substitute for actually being there. You will be amazed at the ‘bigness’ of it all. 

See the website to get your journey started.

Cover Image, Top Left: user1111neo, Pixabay

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Above and below: Approaching and viewing the Propylaia, the classical Greek Doric building complex that functioned as the monumental ceremonial gateway to the Acropolis of Athens.

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Above: The Erechtheum, or Temple of Athena Polias, is an ancient Greek Ionic temple on the north side of the Acropolis, Athens, which was primarily dedicated to the goddess Athena.

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Above and below: Views of the iconic Parthenon, dedicated to the goddess Athena during the fifth century BC. Work is forever ongoing on restoring and preserving the structure, as can be seen by the construction workings around the structure.

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Unless otherwise noted, all photographic images by the author.

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See the incredible archaeology, architecture, and art of northern Spain. A unique tour with special expert guides and lecturers through the collaboration of Popular Archaeology Magazine and Stone & Compass Tours. Not to be missed. Read More About It: https://popular-archaeology.com/article/northern-spains-triple-a-archaeology-architecture-and-art/.

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Northern Spain’s Triple-A: Archaeology, Architecture, and Art

 

Day 1 (October 20)

Arrive in Barcelona from our original departure points and settle into our hotel and amenities. Enjoy an evening meal for the first time as a traveling group.

Day 2 (October 21)

Sagrada Familia. Patrice Audet, Pixabay

Barcelona Casa Battlo & La Sagrada Familia

After breakfast start your trip to Barcelona with a visit to Casa Batlló, a building in the center of Barcelona. It was designed by Antoni Gaudí, and is considered one of his masterpieces. Throughout the tour you’ll see Gaudi influence on architecture all over the city. A remodel of a previously built house, it was redesigned in 1904 by Gaudí and has been refurbished several times after that.

After a break for lunch, we will visit the most iconic Gaudi architecture in the city. The Basílica i Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família, also known as the Sagrada Família, is a large unfinished minor basilica in the Eixample district of Barcelona. This magnificent edifice is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Day 3 (October 22)

Barcelona Fundación Joan Miro, Montjuic & Picasso Museum

After breakfast head over to Fundació Joan Miró, a museum of modern art honoring Joan Miró located on the hill called Montjuïc. After the museum continue to explore Montjuic until lunch.

After lunch, head over to the Picasso Museum, housing one of the most extensive collections of artworks by Pablo Picasso. With 4,251 works exhibited by the painter, the museum has one of the most complete permanent collections of his works. Later have dinner at a quaint local café and head back to your hotel.

Day 4 (October 23)

Barcelona Catedral de Barcelona & Santa Maria del Mar, Museu d’Historia de Barcelona & Gothic Quarter

This morning, after breakfast, visit the Cathedral of Barcelona, the Gothic cathedral and seat of the Archbishop of Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain. The cathedral was constructed from the thirteenth to fifteenth centuries, with the principal work done in the fourteenth century.

Cathedral of Barcelona. Catharinarytter, Pixabay

Next, head over to Santa Maria del Mar, a church in the Ribera district of Barcelona, Spain, built between 1329 and 1383 at the height of the Principality of Catalonia’s maritime and mercantile pre-eminence. It is an outstanding example of Catalan Gothic, with a purity and unity of style that is very unusual in large medieval buildings.

Afterwards get lunch and head over to the Museu d’Historia de Barcelona and after the museum, we make stops at Placa del Rei square and the ancient Roman Temple d’August. Then we will explore the Gothic Quarter of Barcelona and get dinner at a local café before heading back to the hotel.

Day 5 (October 24)

A day at Montserrat

Travel through to the breathtaking multi-peaked mountain range of Montserrat. Board a cogwheel train, visit a historic monastery on the Montserrat mountain range, and admire some incredible views. Later, return to your hotel in Barcelona.

Day 6 (October 25)

Off to Madrid

Today we fly to Madrid from Barcelona to begin our journey to other historic and prehistoric sites to the west away from the Barcelona coastal area. We will board a coach to travel northward to the historic city of Burgos, where we will settle in at our hotel with possible optional free time to explore the city. Enjoy an included evening dinner together.

Day 7 (October 26)

Burgos 

Today after breakfast we head into Burgos to see key historic sites, accompanied and led by a special guest/lecturer, Dr. Amalia Perez-Juez. Among other points of interest, Burgos is rich in historic churches and convents, such as the great (Gothic) Burgos Cathedral, the Monasterio de las Huelgas Reales, and the Carthusian monastery, Miraflores Charterhouse (Cartuja de Miraflores). We will also visit the Castle of Burgos, where archaeological and historic research activities have revealed a long human occupation at the site ranging as far back as the European Early Bronze Age through to the early 19th century. Grab lunch during the day’s visits and enjoy a group dinner in the evening, and enjoy an evening lecture from our guide/lecturer.

Day 8 (October 27)

Burgos: Museum of Human Evolution & Atapuerca

Today have a good breakfast and, with the guidance of our guest/lecturer Amalia Perez-Juez, head straight to the Museum of Human Evolution. This museum exhibits, among many other things, the discoveries and finds from the world-famous Atapuerca excavation sites located 16 kilometers to the east.

Skull detail of Homo heidelbergensis, a hominin discovered in the Sima de los Huesos cave system at Atapuerca. Fernando Losada Rodríguez, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International, Wikimedia Commons

After the museum grab lunch and head over to the Atapuerca excavation sites. The archaeological sites of Atapuerca are notable for evidence of early human occupation, including artifacts and fossils that attest to the earliest hominin (early relatives of humans) presence in Western Europe. The sites have produced arguably one of the world’s most prolific collections of fossils bearing on human evolution. Atapuerca was designated a World Heritage Site in 2000. After the visits have dinner and head to the hotel.

Day 9 (October 28)

Today we arise to breakfast and then depart to travel northward to the Cantabria region. Here we will settle into our hotel in Santillana del Mar, have lunch, and enjoy some free time in the historic town.

Day 10 (October 29)

Cantabria: Caves of Monte Castillo & Puente Viesgo

Interior detail of main room in Cueva del Castillo. Gabinete de Prensa del Gobierno de Cantabria, Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Spain, Wikimedia Commons

After breakfast this morning, accompanied by our special guest/lecturer archaeologist Dr. Joao Zilhao, we will visit the Caves of Monte Castillo, an archaeological site that evidences prehistoric human occupation going back more than 35,000 years. The archaeological stratigraphy has been divided into around 19 layers, beginning in the Proto-Aurignacian, and ending in the Bronze Age. (Only small groups are allowed into the caves. Depending on the size of our overall group, we may need to split the group into 2. The first group will visit El Castillo while the other visit Las Monedas, and then the groups will swap).

After the caves, grab lunch at a local café in the town of Puente Viesgo. Later, we will have free time in Santillana del Mar.

Day 11 (October 30)

Cantabria: Cave of Altamira & Santillana del Mar

Today after breakfast head over to the replica and museum of the Cave of Altamira with Dr. Zilhao. Altamira is a cave complex located near Santillana del Mar. The original cave has been closed to the public for conservation purposes. This cave is renowned for prehistoric parietal cave art featuring charcoal drawings and polychrome paintings of contemporary local fauna and human hands. The earliest paintings were applied during the Upper Paleolithic, around 36,000 years ago. 

Replica of interior detail, cave painting in Altamira cave. José-Manuel Benito, Public Domain, Wikimedia Commons

After the caves, grab lunch and have more time to explore the historic town of Santillana del Mar before heading back to your hotel in Cantabria to settle in and have dinner.

In the evening, enjoy a lecture by Dr. Zilhao about his research and the discoveries in which he took part.

Day 12 (October 31)

Off to Bilbao – Casco Viejo

Today after breakfast we go by motor coach to Bilbao and enjoy the Spanish countryside along the way.  Once we arrive, we check-in to our hotel and get settled. We have the rest of the day to explore Casco Viejo, the medieval old quarter, a lively riverside district of narrow alleys lined with modern shops and traditional taverns. La Ribera market has food stalls in a boat-like waterfront structure, flanked by pintxo bars serving Basque tapas on sticks. We return to the hotel, enjoy dinner and retire for the evening.

Day 13 (November 1)

Bilbao – The Guggenheim Museum & Gaztelugatxe

Bilbao, view of Guggenheim Museum. Javier Alamo, Pixabay

Today, after breakfast, we start our day with a visit to The Guggenheim Museum, a museum of modern and contemporary art designed by Canadian-American architect Frank Gehry, and located in Bilbao. The museum was inaugurated on 18 October 1997 by King Juan Carlos I of Spain, with an exhibition of 250 contemporary works of art.

After the museum grab lunch at the museum café and head over to Gaztelugatxe, an islet on the coast of Biscay. It is connected to the mainland by a man-made bridge. On top of the island stands a hermitage dedicated  to John the Baptist, that dates from the 10th century, although discoveries indicate that the date might be the 9th century. Lodging this evening will be in Bilboa.

Day 14 (November 2)

Today after breakfast we head home from the airport in Bilbao to return to our various home destinations.

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For more information and to sign up, go to the website here.

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Our Guest Lecturers

Dr. Amalia Perez-Juez is Adjunct Professor at Boston University, Co-Director of the Menorca Archaeological Field School, and Director of the Boston University Study Abroad program in Spain. Amalia will impart her knowledge of the cultural and historical background and points of interest in Burgos, including the Museum of Human Evolution and the famous Atapuerca archaeological sites.

Dr. Joao Zilhao, with the University of Lisbon, is an archaeologist and specialist in Paleolithic Archaeology, who’s research focusses on the Stone Age Archaeology of Portugal and Spain. The Middle-to-Upper Paleolithic transition has been a focus of his research, leading him to conduct fieldwork at a number of sites in Portugal, Spain, and other locations in Europe.

See the archaeology, architecture, and art of northern Spain.

Popular Archaeology Magazine is collaborating with Stone and Compass to develop and offer an exclusive, unique tour of northern Spain — Northern Spain’s Triple A: Archaeology, Architecture, and Art — projected to take place in 2024 or 2025. This first-time-offered, premier tour will highlight visits to some of the most iconic and breathtaking sites featuring the spectacular cultural treasures that northern Spain has to offer, including a full day to visit the fabulous Museum of Human Evolution in Burgos and the famous Atapuerca caves nearby, where a massive number of early human fossils have been unearthed, representing some of the oldest early humans, dating back to more than a million years, that lived in what is today Europe. More specifically, the tour will include visits to places like:

Barcelona, to see the Sagrada Familia, Fundació Joan Miró (showcasing the works of Joan Miró), Montjuic, Temple of Augustus, Barcelona Cathedral, the Gothic Quarter, the Picasso Museum and nearby Montserrat;

Bilbao, to explore the spectacular Guggenheim Museum, the city, and Gaztelugatxe;

Cantabria, to visit the caves of Monte Castillo and Puente Viesgo, and the cave of Altamira and Santillana del Mar.  The caves are where early humans left their cave art tens of thousands of years ago.

Burgos, to visit the Museum of Human Evolution and Atapuerca, as well as Burgos Castle and the Monasterio de las Huelgas.

The tour is expected to last 12 days and is estimated to cost $4,300 per person, which includes the round-trip flight to Barcelona, all meals and lodging, transportation, a tour director and local guides, and all other costs required for access to the sites. There will be $300 additional for single occupancy.

I will be personally participating in this special tour myself, and I look forward to meeting you as a subscriber. If you are interested in this tour, please email us at populararchaeology@gmail.com and express your interest, and we will place you on our correspondence list to receive more information as the tour develops. 

Happy Planning!

 

Dan McLerran

Editor

Popular Archaeology Magazine

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Image, top: View of the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. Javier Alamo, Pixabay

Image, bottom: Bison painting by prehistoric human occupants of Altamira Cave. Janeb13, Pixabay

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Walking in the Shadow of Vesuvius

Editor’s Note: As a journalist specializing in archaeology, I am not usually inclined to travel on group tours. The fact, however, remains that tourism is actually an essential player when it comes to the impact and benefits that archaeological excavations and research have bestowed on world economies, particularly countries that possess an enormously rich and often spectacular heritage of humanity’s past. Andante Travels, a British tour company that specializes in archaeological and cultural tours, has in this writer’s opinion pulled together perhaps the most compelling opportunities for travelers when it comes to experiencing our global archaeological and cultural heritage from the educated ‘layman’s’ perspective. Originally created by archaeologists themselves for lovers of archaeology, it affords travel experiences that cater primarily to individuals with distinctive academic and cultural interests. What follows is my personal venture with one of those offerings—one I felt uncharacteristically compelled to experience on my own: 

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Naples, ItalyAlthough November is considered the wettest month in this, the third largest city of Italy, my arrival was graced by the sun. Traveling by motor coach with like-minded friends from the international airport, one could easily see why, even in the latter half of autumn, this city and its environs still make for a very holiday-like visit. Trees, still green, some bearing yellow-orange citrus, and the distinctive stone pine and umbrella trees that famously define the landscape of the Naples region, accent the view along the main freeway leading southeast from the city. Here there are scenes I’m not accustomed to seeing while on the road in most places of my home country, the U.S. In Naples, apartment complexes and houses are colorfully painted and even household laundry, hanging from balcony lines and rippling in the breeze that flows in from the nearby Bay of Naples, adds some color and interest — a reminder that people like all of us live here. 

Situated only a few miles from Salerno in the region of Campania, the little city of Cava de’ Tirreni strikes a picturesque pose within a valley rich in agricultural land, surrounded by wooded hills. It is on one of these hills where I found myself settled into Hotel Scapolatiello, a family-owned and operated business established in 1821, located within walking distance of a thousand-year-old Benedictine Abbey and nestled with breathtaking views in its context of surrounding hills and the valley below. My initial impression, and perhaps the best part of the stay here: My room, which featured shutters that could be opened up to the fresh air and a lofty view of the hills and valley landscape below me. I could stand there for hours, and the temperature, albeit mid-November, was comfortably cool, with a breeze carrying the scents of the local flora, still mostly green in defiance of autumn. This first night, only a few hours away from arrival, featured a lecture from our accompanying Guide Lecturer, John Shepherd, relating a comprehensive review of the history and geology of the Bay of Naples area and Campania, anticipating our upcoming visits to the ancient sites — some iconic, such as Pompeii and Herculaneum, and some less so but equally compelling. 

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Above and below: The Hotel Scapolatiello.

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Opening the shutters: The view from my hotel room window. (Yes, that is a rainbow in the distance). A slight, slow rocking earth tremor came calling early one morning before breakfast, reminding us that the geology of the region is still very active.

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The Roman Villa of Positano

The Amalfi coast, named after the town of Amalfi on the Sorento Peninsula, is famously known for its majestically scenic beauty. Nick-named the “Divine Coast” and historically a popular destination for Europe’s jet set, it is no wonder that it is among the most visited regions of Italy, particularly during the high tourist season between April and October. Rugged, rocky vertical lines and cliffs, dressed by nature’s artful touch of green pine and other flora, overlook the vast, glistening blue water of the Mediterranean. To negotiate it, one must drive the winding and relatively narrow 25-mile-long Amalfi Drive that hugs the steep coastline from the town of Vietri sul Mare in the east to Positano in the west. For this writer, the drive was a bit like being in a visual heaven, but, like my discriminating colleagues, this was all secondary to our objective — the Roman Villa of Positano. 

Otium

“Otium,” is a latin term which in ancient Roman times meant ‘leisure time’, a luxury of the Roman elite, who had their sumptuous seaside villas built along what is presently the Amalfi coast beginning as early as the Julio-Claudian Dynasty (27 BC to  68 AD). This was where the rich and famous played, away from the usual business of Rome and other urban centers. Evidence for one of these otium villas, today called the Roman Villa of Positano, was first discovered by Karl Weber, the initial excavator of Pompeii and Herculaneum, in 1758. But the most extensive excavations were undertaken between 2003 and 2016, when archaeologists uncovered a startlingly well-preserved portion of the villa beneath the medieval hypogeum of the Santa Maria Assunta church at the city center. Although it represented but a fraction of the original structure, the room, determined by the archaeologists to be a triclinium, featured walls covered with masterfully rendered fine fresco painting in brilliant color and clarity, almost as if they had been painted yesterday. “Yesterday”, in this instance was a time not long after 62 AD, when an earthquake’s destruction presented the opportunity for the villa’s ownership to renovate, including this triclinium now on view to the public. Scholars have suggested that the villa may have been owned by Posides Claudi Caesaris, a wealthy and powerful man who, once a slave or servant, had been favored and freed by Emperor Claudius himself. It is thought that Positano may have taken its name from this individual. What can be seen today of Posides’s grand villa is its appearance just moments before it was buried beneath the same ash, pumice, and pyrooclastic flows that destroyed Pompeii and Herculaneum in 79 AD. Archaeologists and scholars suggest that the greater complex featured at least a peristyle with a central garden and fountain, along with the triclinium and bath quarters — features typical of a Roman villa of the times. 

Unlike Pompeii, Herculaneum, and other sites such as Stabiae, the Roman Villa of Positano afforded us the opportunity to see something “off the radar” for many visitors who come to see the most iconic spots in Campania. It is an example of the special and distinctive itineraries developed by Andante Travels for their guests.  

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The rugged and beautiful Amalfi coastline.

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Above and below: Views of the wall painting in the Villa of Positano. The two lower photos show painting features displacement caused by the ancient earthquake.

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Pompeii

Archaeologically speaking, Pompeii is arguably the world’s most spectacular archaeological site and park. Home to about 11,000 to 11,500 people in its day, the city’s urban footprint spreads across 160 to 170 acres, and archaeological excavations have thus far uncovered about two thirds of the city. Although excavations continue, efforts now focus on specific, smaller areas with designs to achieve certain research objectives. Conservation of current exposed remains also continues to be a major priority of governing authorities for the site. 

Thus it was no wonder that, given the site’s massive size and complexity, along with the sensational state of preservation reflecting everyday living in the ancient Roman Empire, our group was allotted a full day to explore its remains — not typical of the usual group ‘day’ tours that afford but two or three hours. John Shepherd, our Guide Lecturer, began leading us just outside the city walls by addressing the common thread underpinning our entire exploration of the Bay of Naples area — the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 AD. and the massive destruction, yet concomitant preservation, that followed in its wake. We proceeded afterwards to walk the ancient city streets and through some of the most prominent and spectacular structures and features of the city, including the remarkably well preserved amphitheater. Throughout, Shepherd detailed the stories and research findings behind every stop, giving us an inside, intimate perspective that could not possibly be acquired by exploring on one’s own.

A highlight of this tour was the time spent at the recent discoveries in Regio V, where archaeologists uncovered, among other things, a well-preserved thermopolium, a cook-shop or snack bar conceptually much like a fast-food shop one would encounter today in the modern world. I imagined the city residents wandering by during its day, some stepping in to purchase a freshly cooked snack or meal, just as one might enter a modern Chipotle or Panera establishment just off the road today. This shop, in contrast to other similar shops we had already observed as we walked along the streets, featured unusually rich painting illustrations, such as a Nereid on horseback in a marine environment, still life scenes and representations of animals likely slaughtered, the meat of which was prepared and sold to customers in the shop. 

It is not enough to see pictures and read about Pompeii in the popular literature. The massive site demands a personal encounter with sufficient time to properly absorb it, and Andante fulfills this exceptionally well. 

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The recently discovered thermopolium.

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Above and below: Views of Pompeii.

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Even as Pompeii hosts its many visiting tourists, archaeological conservation and excavation work continues in the ancient city. These workers were oblivious to our presence as we passed them along the ancient street.

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Herculaneum

One cannot speak of Pompeii in the context of the 79 AD Vesuvius eruption without speaking of Herculaneum. Like Pompeii anciently, it bore the brunt of the cataclysm. We arrived at Herculaneum in the morning, embarking on a half-day’s worth of exploring the site. Given the size of the site compared to Pompeii, the stay was proportional, but experiencing the remains here was every bit as spectacular, if not more. An obvious difference between Pompeii and Herculaneum can be seen in the generally well-preserved height of the structures, as well as much of the restored decor within the structures. If one wants to see architecture and art more akin to the way it actually appeared before the eruption, Herculaneum earns first place. Here again, Shepherd related in detail the facts and stories behind the incredibly well-preserved structures and their decorative elements, affording his guests a rich tapestry of the physical appearance and lives of the citizenry, an experience not enjoyed by most visitors. Additionally, we were provided with ample time at the end of Shepherd’s program to explore Herculaneum on our own, a luxury made possible in part because, in comparison to Pompeii, the smaller area combined with instruction minimized the probability that individuals would get themselves lost! 

Important to keep in mind for the future, the Park authorities are contemplating plans to excavate the still un-excavated forum area of the site, which may be open to public observation during the excavations.

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Above and below: Views of Herculaneum.

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Note the carbonized wooden beam exposed in this structure along Herculaneum’s decumanus maximus (central main street).

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This marks the ancient shoreline at Herculaneum during the time of the Vesuvius eruption.

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One example of the skeletal remains discovered at Herculaneum, preserving the final moment of life during the eruption.

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Baia

Be wealthy, and visit any of today’s most luxurious, seaside spa resorts designed for relaxation and fun in the sun, and you would get a modern-day taste of what defined the ancient site of Baia in its 1st Century A.D. heyday, nestled on the shore of the Gulf of Pozzuoli (part of the Gulf of Naples). This was a destination of choice for ancient Rome’s rich and famous. For centuries, Roman emperors and the Roman elite established opulent getaway villas here. While it drew people for the healing powers of its mineral springs and the soothing fragrance of the surrounding myrtle groves, it also became known for the hedonistic lifestyle of its residents, both permanent and transient. Its spas and baths drew everyone who was anyone, and stories of corruption and scandal is said to have marked its character, whether true or false. Only a fraction of its sumptuous massive architecture has been exposed. Its remains cascade down the steep rocky slopes that overlook the gulf. The numerous baths and complexes that functioned in their time were fed by the natural hot springs as well as fresh water transported in by the nearby Augustan aquaduct. Unlike the better known iconic sites of nearby Pompeii and Herculaneum, it is not on everyone’s must-see bucket list. But the fact remains that what any visitor can see here is every bit as impressive and engaging. Our exploration took us through most of the site, and, like Herculaneum, in addition to Shepherd’s insightful guidance and detailed lecture, we were permitted free time to independently explore its corners on our own. One could get lost here, meant of course in a good way.

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Above and below: Views of Baia.

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Pozzuoli

Imagine yourself as a member of the Roman Senate vacationing at your summer villa at Baia and you have plans for some exciting entertainment. Gladiatorial combat is a favorite of yours, so you have your horses harnessed to get yourself and your guests off to the games at the nearby Flavian amphitheater in Puteoli (today known as Pozzuoli). 

One of the grandest amphitheaters of ancient Rome, the Flavian amphitheater of Pozzuoli is considered the third largest after the Colosseum in Rome and the Amphitheater of Capua. With a historic capacity of 50,000 spectators, it measures 482 x 384 feet, with the arena floor alone at 237 x 139 feet. We were impressed first by the exterior remains towering above us, reddish brickwork providing a contrast with other grey-hued structural elements. On this day, we were not permitted to enter the arena. A fire occurred not long before and authorities had the arena cordoned off while investigations were being conducted. Our disappointment quickly disappeared, however, when we stepped down into its subterranean spaces. Like a world unto itself, a massive system of arches, chambers, walls and fallen pillars lay before us, left as if the ancient inhabitants had just abandoned the spaces only the day before. It was difficult to believe the almost pristine freshness of the stone and brickwork. Hidden, protected from the ravages of human activity and weathering above ground level over the centuries, it seemed, like Pompeii and Herculaneum, frozen in time. One could still easily imagine the sight and sounds of the sets, animals, and other equipment and devices in play within the cool spaces, now mostly empty, as workers made preparations for the pending performance. In my mind’s ear, a somewhat muted ancient roar of the sitting crowds above could be heard. Here, too, following Shepherd’s guidance and detailed lecture, we were permitted free time to independently explore these internal spaces on our own.

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Above and below: Views of the amphitheater at Pozzuoli.

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Villa Augustea

Our last day was highlighted by visits to the remains of two ancient Roman villas. What made these visits special was the fact that we were permitted private access to the sites, a privilege not routinely granted on typical tours of ancient Italy. Our first stop was a seaside villa known as the Villa Sora (Torre del Greco). Affording a remarkably intimate view of the adjacent bay, we walked through the results of excavations that still showed the outward signs that this was an ongoing work in progress with clearly much more work to do. What was visible to us this day, however, was proof enough that this was a sprawling estate, hugging the sea yet clearly, given the evidence and known history of its context, a large agricultural operation. A walkable carpet of grass framed architectural remains that protruded above ground, showing the promise of much more to be discovered beneath. But the highlight of the experience was the more deeply defined excavated area that revealed the architectural details of the villa’s interior spaces — frescoed walls, steps, floors — that clearly marked an unfinished business for the laboring teams, now absent during our group’s sojourn here, begging for more excavation beyond the trench’s current perimeter.  

But the most surprising, breathtaking experience came after we made our way later that day to the second major site of the day, located near Somma Vesuviana, a town on the north side of Vesuvius. Unlike other archaeological sites in the area like Pompeii and Herculaneum, this was a rural setting. We approached the location by walking past a fenced-off agricultural field toward a stationary construction crane in the distance, towering conspicuously above a flat, green landscape.  

Our first-blush experience upon arrival was much like looking down into an open-pit mine — though much more aesthetically pleasing. We were peering down on the results of recent and ongoing excavations of a spectacularly massive ancient Roman villa — massive and jaw-dropping not only in size but also in its remarkable state of preservation. Descending down via a stairway constructed for workers and visitors, we saw, up close and personal, walls, pillars, floors, doorways, and other architectural features, frozen in time, entombed in large measure as they were before they were overwhelmed and smothered by the ash, pumice, pyroclastic fall, surge and flow activity of a Vesuvius eruption. This was not the exclusive work of the eruption of 79 AD. It was the legacy of multiple eruptions, but most especially that of the eruption of 472 AD. Recent excavations had cut laboriously through the cataclysmic coat that had been deposited over and through the villa, such that we could see the vertical profile of the stratigraphy of volcanic deposits in distinct layers, left as a physical record by the excavators to mark the phases of the eruption that impacted the site. 

Less known in the popular literature than the famous 79 AD eruption that assaulted Pompeii and Herculaneum, the 472 AD event, otherwise known as the Pollena eruption, impacted multiple relatively prosperous communities that thrived near the time of the decline of the Roman Empire. One of these included the sprawling, elaborate Villa Augustea, or Villa of Augustus, named after Augustus as it is thought that it could have a connection (under scholarly debate) to Emperor Augustus, who died at the nearby ancient town of Nola in 14 AD. The site was initially discovered in the 1930’s with limited excavation, but the most extensive investigation began in 2002 through a multidisciplinary project with the University of Tokyo. Those excavations have revealed walls preserved to a remarkable height, doorways decorated with Dionysiac motifs, a pilastered arcade, apses decorated with frescoes, cisterns, terraces, colonnades, and a large wine cellar with dolia (large earthenware jars), some of which can be seen still buried to their lips in the ground. Scholars have determined that they still contained fermenting grape juice when the eruption occurred. For a time, this was clearly more than a wealthy person’s villa — it was also a production facility for wine, the principal product of the region. Many artifacts, including a marble statue of Dionysus, the god of wine himself, were also recovered in the process.    

It was a fitting end to an astounding exploration of ancient sites around the Bay of Naples—arguably the richest, by square mile, archaeological landscape in the world.

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Above and below: Views of the Villa Sora (Torre del Greco).

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Above and below: Views of Villa Augustea.

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Museums

Any archaeologically-oriented tour would not be complete without including visits to key museums. This is where one can see, close-at-hand, some of the most important and/or most spectacular or diagnostic individual artifacts unearthed at the sites explored. In our case, there were museums attached to or related to most of the sites encountered during our visits, perhaps the most iconic of which was the famous National Archaeological Museum in Naples. Here, for example, the curators have displayed some of the most magnificent fresco paintings and other works of art and artifacts of Pompeii, among other sites. Here they are kept safe, preserved from the deleterious effects of the exterior environment, and close-at-hand for further study and conservation — and, of course, as a convenient one-stop destination for the public to see some of the most impressive objects representing the archaeology and ancient culture of the region. 

For this author, the museum that left the most positive impression was unequivocally the facility attached to the site of Herculaneum. Small in comparison to the National Archaeological Museum of Naples, it is nonetheless rich with some of the finest artifacts and art pieces archaeologists have unearthed since the inception of investigations at the site. Furniture, tableware, jewelry, fresco paintings — all of the items that tell the story of Roman life in this coastal city for both the rich and the not-quite-so-rich, including a remarkably well-preserved boat recovered from the deposits that defined the ancient Herculaneum coastline when Vesuvius made its disastrous assault — make this museum something not to miss on any itinerary that includes Herculaneum.

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Above and below: Artifacts recovered from the Herculaneum excavations, as exhibited in the associated museum. Shown above is a well-preserved boat.

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This writer should mention that, as would be the case with any international journey, the shifting circumstances of the COVID pandemic can and does have an impact on plans. So it was also with Romans on the Bay of Naples. One prime objective of the tour was to visit the remains of Villa Jovis, the grand get-away villa of Emperor Tiberius on the island of Capri, not far off the coastline of Naples. Pandemic impacts unfortunately affected the resources that could be made available for our group visit at the site, and thus this opportunity had to be cancelled. Nonetheless, adjustments were made such that a meaningful and very memorable visit to this island destination could be realized, which included a stunning boat exploration of the various grottos and scenic points around the picturesque island. 

Finally, one can argue that visiting archaeological sites on one’s own, or with one or two friends or family members, can have advantages of flexibility and affordability that a group tour cannot bestow. However, aside from the education, insight, and value that an expert-led group visit can offer, few experiences can match the opportunity a group tour with like-minded travelers can offer when it comes to the adventure of meeting fellow travelers who, each and every one, are a treasure house of life’s experiences and stories that are, in a different way, as fascinating and interesting as the sites one is visiting. This writer made some meaningful new friends along the way. 

*All photographic images were taken by the author on the November tour, taking advantage of the much lower numbers of tourists during the region’s ‘off-season’ for tourism. 

 

Find out more about the Andante Travel experience generally by visiting their website.

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About The Tour Leaders

One of the elements that make specialized tours like those of Andante valuable, of course, is the skilled and knowledgeable accompaniment of archaeologist/scholars who are deeply informed and experienced about the destinations of the travel itinerary. Beyond simply having the remarkable visual experience of the sites, guests are afforded an ongoing narrative of facts, history, stories and detailed observations that only an expert can impart. This bestows immeasurably more meaning and appreciation for the structures, objects, and landscapes the visitor is experiencing. Add to this the advantage of having a tour manager along to ensure the smooth and secure operation of your visit and to facilitate meeting your every need and convenience, and one can see why group tours like those of Andante are well worth the value they offer………..

Getting the Inside Story from John Shepherd

 

More valuable than any element of our tour, we were imbued with a sense of personal connection to the people who lived and, in some cases, tragically died so long ago in the places we visited. This could not have happened without the detailed insight that John Shepherd so brilliantly imparted to us as we sojourned among the remarkably well-preserved remains of the towns and villas we visited. 

I asked Shepherd about what he regarded to be his favorite site and what he enjoyed the most about being a guide lecturer. Hands down, his favorite site activity revolved around leading groups through Pompeii:

“I came to realize that an important part of the study of archaeology was the dissemination of the stories that we can weave from all the evidence,” said Shepherd, who is an archaeologist, “and so there are many stories based upon the same evidence, depending upon your viewpoint in a particular place or part of society in antiquity. Even at a very early age I was, precociously, a relativist – never really believing in a single true story about the past but the intricate tapestry upon which one can set ones gaze and see different things.”

“When you get to a place like Pompeii,” Shepherd continued, “well, there it is — the perfect frame on which to weave that tapestry. Wherever I go around that town, taking guests, every room in every house affords a chance to tell a story about who lived there — their ‘trials and tribulations’, their loves and hates. Pompeii provides the opportunity to consider what its inhabitants were thinking, what they aspired to – how poor, how rich, how kind, how cruel, how enlightened, how traditional. All of these things we might see in ourselves, and although it was most definitely a different place and time – and they did hold differing attitudes about so many things compared to us (technology, etc., aside) I do hope that my group guidance helps to populate the town with many characters – such as we find in our own towns. But most importantly, I hope to leave visitors with the idea that, armed with a little knowledge about a few various aspects of Roman life, then as they move around the town it begins to become familiar to them — how a street worked, how a house was laid out, who used what parts, whether we were in a smart place or a rundown area.”

“So there it is,” he concludes. “Making the lives of those people who called Pompeii their home accessible through storytelling to modern visitors and leaving the visitors with a feeling of understanding of what the town meant to those Pompeiians – that, I suppose, is my manifesto.”

Shepherd specializes in ancient glass, and he has worked across Europe as an archaeologist, including the UK, Italy, France, and Bulgaria. He worked at the Museum of London for over 20 years, and published Professor W F Grimes’s post war excavations on the London Temple of Mithras and the Cripplegate Roman Fort. He also established the Museum’s Archaeological Archive and Research Center. After leaving the Museum in 2004, he focused on developing the use of museum archaeological collections in universities and schools. Since 2019 he has been working with Pre-Construct Archaeology to publish their Iron Age and Roman sites. And lastly but no less significant, he designed and led the London Borough of Islington’s World War 1 commemorative projects, including ‘The Streets They left Behind’ – which located every man (and a few women) with Islington connections who died in World War I, identifying as many as possible of their last known Islington addresses before the soldiers went off to war and never returned.

Going First Class with Anna

 

“I like working with people,” says Anna Vigetti, the tour manager who traveled with us on this tour. “My biggest satisfaction is seeing that our guests are happy. That’s the reason I’m here: to give them the best experience possible.”

Based on my first-hand experience watching her work and play with us on this journey, there is no exaggeration in her statements. Every step of the way, we were treated like VIPs, allowing us to throw every personal, logistical and safety concern out the window of our minds. She ensured that every person in the group was accounted for before the group was transported on to the next destination, and that the travel plans and mechanics were executed as effectively as possible, including meals, accommodations, transport, site access, and much more. It afforded us the luxury of focusing entirely on the up-close-and-personal educational and visual experience of the sites, countryside and museums we traversed. She even pampered us with little things along the way, like offering and distributing treats as we traveled. 

Anna’s specialized talents had already been honed by years of experience as a tour manager. Born in Italy to a Scottish mother and Italian father, she eventually went on to acquire her undergraduate degree at the University of Edinburgh in Scotland, then her graduate degree in Cultural Heritage Management from the University of Barcelona in Spain. She has a native fluency in Italian and English (which came in handy when she functioned as our interpreter at certain sites during the tour), a full professional proficiency in Spanish and Catalan, and a working proficiency in French. She began work with Andante Travels in 2014, leading groups as a tour manager at such locations as the Campania region of Italy (which includes Pompeii, Herculaneum, and many other archaeological sites), Spain, Peru, Chile, Bolivia, Oman, and Easter Island, among others. Managing tours, however, is only one element in the spectrum of her skill sets, which includes translation, an activity in which she found herself more profusely engaged during the pandemic. She currently lives in Barcelona, Spain.    

I asked her about some of her favorite experiences while working as a tour manager. Her response was enough to inspire anyone to want to travel:

On one of my first tours around Naples,” she began, “I was blown away by a carbonized loaf of bread from Roman times that looked like it had just come out of the oven;

On Easter Island, I couldn’t stop thinking about what it must have been like for the Rapa Nui to live on such a tiny patch of land 3,500 km away from the nearest continent. It’s a very strange feeling to be so far away from everything. Their world was so small and so different from ours!

In northern Spain, it was incredibly moving to catch a glimpse of deer running across the hillside and, minutes later, stand in a small cave (the Covalanas cave) looking at beautiful images of deer painted by our ancestors during the Paleolithic Age.

And another incredible experience included visiting the Masaya volcano in Nicaragua at night. It glowed in the dark and you could see it from miles away. When we got to the top, we saw lava flowing and splashing inside the crater, and even heard the lava waves – it was like listening to the sea. Just mind-blowing!

Many of these moments feel like actual time travel, because they give me a deep sense of connection with people who lived hundreds or thousands of years ago. Others have something to do with experiencing the force and beauty of nature in different ways. And then apart from that, of course — every time I go somewhere new I get a wonderful sense of adventure and discovery.”

 

More information about Andante Travels can be obtained online at their website

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The Roman Catacombs: The Labyrinthine City of the Dead

1.  You and Camille wrote a brilliant, wide-ranging book, BELOW ROME: THE STORY OF THE CATACOMBS.  You’ve both been to Italy around 100 times.  Are the Roman catacombs on your top ten list?

Rome has been playing host to the world now for nearly 3,000 years. In antiquity, eager visitors from Syria, Egypt, Persia, Mesopotamia, Greece, Libya, Ilyria, the Jewish diaspora and elsewhere in the Mediterranean basin trekked the plethora of roads leading to Rome to see and marvel at the Eternal City’s fabled sights and sites. Today they come from the Americas, from all over Europe, from Scandinavia, from the Baltics, from Asia and Australia and lesser known points of the globe to behold, wide-eyed, the mighty Colosseum, the Forum, the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, the piazzas, the fountains, the wonders of the Vatican, and whatever else there is on their top-ten list.

But beneath all this unexampled splendor of Rome there sprawls the dark, dank, eerie, labyrinthine, city of the dead    the catacombs.  These are a story apart, a sui generis, terra sacra, which are not merely on any Roman top-ten list, but which constitute a must-see list solely of their own.

2.  Is a hike on the Via Appia the best way to reach the Catacombs? What will one experience along the way?

The catacombs of the Jews and early Christians of Rome were burial grounds of course and, ipso facto, had to abide by the old Extra Muros law which ordered that all burials and entombments had to take place “outside the walls” of the city.

Thus pagans, Jews, and Christians alike placed their cemeteries or mausolea along the sides of the many highways leading out of Rome, such roads as the Via Cassia, the Via Flaminia, the Via Salaria, the Via Latina, the Via Tiburtina and so on.

Two of the most important Christian subterranean cemeteries    the Catacombs of St. Callistus and the Catacomb of St. Sebastian    together with two of the Jewish grounds, are to be found along the fourth century B.C.Via Appia.

A hike on the Appian Road is a never to be forgotten experience. Whether drenched in the soft golden sun of morning or suffused with the ethereal pink light of evening, the old road that leads south from Rome offers a peaceful alternative to the urban din and commotion endlessly taking place within the towering Aurelian Walls.

While the pulsating Eternal City with its countless charms never fails to cast its spell on all visitors, there comes a point in every Roman sojourn when one aches for a brief interlude of monastic quiet and stillness, for the sweet music of silence.

Camille and I learned long ago to satisfy that intermittent urge for a spell of tranquility by taking a long leisurely walk out along the side of that legendary road    its original paving stones still in place in some stretches    that melancholy yet lovely thoroughfare flanked by pagan tombs with their Latin epitaphs, by fragments of statues and columns, by fields of wildflowers, by graceful umbrella pines and stately cypresses, that scenic highway to Capua and beyond.  Can there be any setting quite so beautiful and romantic as the lines of the Campagna Romana with its gentle inclination of its plains stretching out toward the soft contours of the purple Alban Hills?  The scenery delights the eye, the history intrigues the mind, the antiquity stirs the soul, the stillness evokes reverie.

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Appian Way, near Casal Rotondo. Livioandronico2013, (CC BY-SA 4.0), Wikimedia Commons

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Twenty-three centuries have walked their way to Rome along these very stones,  The vaunted Roman legions would march through here on the way back from yet another triumph in the East. In June of 1944 American troops trod this storied road on their way to liberate Rome.

3.  What does the word “catacomb” mean?  Can you tell us about the catacombs?

The term “catacomb” derives from the Greek words Kata (down) and kymbas (in the hollows), a very appropriate way of expressing how the Roman Jews and early Christians dug “down” to  “hollow” out the subsoil of the countryside beyond the city walls, to provide extensive burial space for their deceased.

A family crypt (cubiculum).

The Christians of first century Rome buried their dead in public graveyards among the bodies of those few pagans who practiced inhumation, instead of the more common custom of cremation. At some point in the second century, however, the city’s Christians, many of whom were converts from Judaism, adopted the Jewish practice of subterranean tunneling for cemeterial purposes. Among all the monuments of the ancient world, the catacombs of Rome are, along with the southern town of Pompeii, the only ones which have survived the vicissitudes of time.  Pompeii, buried in A.D. 79 by an eruption of the volcano Mount Vesuvius, reveals to us the public and private life of the pagan populace of the Roman Empire. The catacombs tell us a great deal of the life and times and customs of the early Christians. All these sites have retained their fascination and attraction for tourists and pilgrims, for scholars and especially archaeologists.

On many tombs in these underground cemeteries we see carved, etched, or painted some of the Christian primitive prayers and symbols, their love of family and fellow believers, their hope for eternal joy, the doctrines that inspired them. We see evidence of the new, rapidly spreading religion for which they riskedand often willingly sacrificed—their lives.

A typical catacomb gallery or tunnel.

In all, there were some sixty or more burial grounds developed on the outskirts of Rome. These were of varying size and capacity, some containing a few hundred bodies, others thousands, and one with as many as 90,000. Many of the catacombs had several levels to them.

The extent of this colossal network of tunnels by Rome’s early disciples of Christ is enormous and in many ways it rendered possible the existence, survival, and propagation of Christianity.  In the past, some archaeologists thought that if the tunnels—more commonly called gallerieswere to be placed end to end in a straight continuous line, they would stretch longer than the boot-shaped peninsula of Italy itself, that is to say about 750 miles. Modern researchers think that the total length of these galleries is more likely about half that.

4.  The Jews have lived a long time in Rome and were the first to construct catacombs there. You mentioned how Julius Caesar recognized Judaism and that in Augustus’ reign eleven synagogues flourished. You mentioned that in Paul’s letter to the Romans, “Paul greets twenty four Jews, eighteen with Greek names, four with names in Latin, two in Hebrew.”  Is it known how and when the Jews first arrived?

The Jewish community in Rome today is known to be the oldest such community in Europe.  Thanks to the historian Josephus, we know that in 161 B.C. Judah Maccabee, the heroic Jewish warrior-statesman, sent a delegation to the Senate there in the hope of negotiating an alliance with Rome. It is thought that some of the diplomats stayed on and from them a small Jewish population took root on the banks of the Tiber. 

An epitaph, in Greek, from a Jewish catacomb.

The following two decades must have seen another influx of Jewish migrants  – probably from Alexandria    for by 139 B.C. they were causing quite a stir.  Valerius Maximus, one of the least known classical Roman writers, tells of a general expulsion of the Jews in that year. The praetor Hispanus issued a decree banning them from Rome and from all of Italy, charging them with “aggressive proselytizing,” thereby undermining public worship of the pagan dieties.  Apparently the ban by Hispanus was of short duration, for by the turn of the century Jews constituted ten percent of the city’s teeming population.  By now, there were immigrants from the major Jewish centers of Asia Minor, the Land of Israel, Syria, Libya, Egypt and Greece.

In Jewish catacombs of that period, there are gravestones attesting to this diaspora. One mentions a Jew from Catania in Sicily, which was part of the Hellenization of southern Italy, or Magna Graecia. Another inscription honors a Jew from Numidia. A third mentions one from Rhodes.

Conditions improved greatly for Rome’s Jews when Julius Caesar came to power. He granted official recognition to Judaism as a legal religion, a policy followed by his successor, Caesar Augustus. So close did the Jews hold Caesar in their hearts that when he fell to the knives of Brutus and his co-conspirators they mourned his death in their week-long ancient rite of shivah. 

5.  So the Egyptians, Jews, and Christians wanted the body intact? But the Greeks and Romans cremated the body, right?  I recall, for example, that you explained the word “cemetery,” which has Greek roots.

The Greek word coemeterion—“sleeping place”—implies that such land is designated as a burial gravesite and originally applied to the Roman catacombs. The word “catacomb” came into usage in the early Middle Ages as the generic term for all below ground graveyards. Up until then the Christians and the Jews referred to them as cemeteria subterranea.  One does not need much knowledge of Latin to translate that phrase.

As far as the Christians were concerned, trusting in their religion’s promise of a “resurrection,” the deceased were not finished with life but merely “asleep” and waiting peacefully to be transferred to an eternal destination, one filled with joy.

6.  How do you think the Egyptian afterlife (or others if you wish) differed from the Christian afterlife? The worship of Isis loomed large in Rome as Christianity was growing as well.

In Greek mythology the spirits of the dead would cross over the River Styx into the lower world called Hades. There the departed were doomed to an eternity of gloom and horror and dread, with zero prospect of ever escaping. One could only hope that upon dying, he or she would be deemed worthy of admission into an area of the lower world called the Eylisian Fields, a kind of paradise-like final resting place reserved for the heroic and the pure. The Romans’ prospects for an afterlife final resting place, in many ways corresponded to all this.

The ancient Eyptians’ view of death was that an afterlife most assuredly awaited, a rather pleasant one. Like the Christians, they were convinced of immortality and that death was not the cessation of life but rather a temporary phase. Thus the custom of mummification evolved which would preserve the body so that the soul could be soon re-infused into it upon reaching the other world.

Some of the entombment practices could remind one of the early Christian traditions. The bereaved Egyptian family would place, outside the burial chamber, household equipment and daily necessities of food and drink in the new life.

Inscriptions including traditional prayers and invocations were carved on the exterior in order to comfort, encourage, and assist the departed en route to the hereafter. Here again is additional similarity to Christian entombment rites. In place of the Egyptian provisions of food and drink, the Christian bereaved families would hold immediately after the funeral and entombment, on site in the catacombs, a light meal called a refrigerium to commemorate their loved one’s life.  Today’s custom of a repast derives from that tradition.

Soon after the crypt was sealed, an epitaph would be etched into or painted on it and sometimes a brief prayer or even an invoking of the intercession of the martyrs and saints, especially Peter and Paul.

7.  Do you see some common ground between Christianity and religion in ancient Egypt?

If one chose to, he or she could find some common characteristics between early Christianity and the cult of Isis.

Although in the Pauline view of Christianity, God was a male and Isis was a female, both religions worshiped a redeemer, a savior divinity. Isis was a savior goddess. Jesus was the Christian savior.  Another conspicuous similarity between the two faiths is that both offered a one-on-one relationship with a deity, regardless of the background or status of the devotee. In both cults, penitents sought the cleansing of the guilt of their sins.

Both religious were particularly popular with the lower classes. Both offered magnificently solemn rituals that the believers could participate in. There may have been Isiac influence also on Christian iconography. For example, in art, Isis was frequently portrayed in a maternal pose, wearing a crown and holding lovingly in her arms her divine child, Horus.  The Virgin Mary, haloed, is widely presented in catacomb frescoes holding her divine child Jesus.

The Egyptian religions erected imposing temples to their gods. The Egyptian cults were banished by Tiberius but publicly welcomed back to the Roman world by Caligula. And the Temple of Isis in Rome which was destroyed by fire in A.D. 80 was rebuilt by order of Domitian with a luxury and splendor still testified to in our day by two obelisks that once flanked the temple entrance and now serve as centerpieces for Roman piazzas, one in the square fronting the Pantheon, the other just a short distance away in Piazza Minerva.

As for the Christians, architecturally speaking, they had to wait for the liberating Edict of Milan by Constantine to erect such imposing temples as St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican, St. Paul’s Outside the Walls, and great Romanesque churches.

Of course, after all this, it must be said that there were many extreme dissimilarities between the two religions, as well. For example, the Isian religion, in most un-Christian fashion, was one of Mystery initiation. In the mid-second century A.D. the African barrister Lucivs Apuleius, himself an initiate of the Mysteries of Isis, wrote The Golden Ass, an entertaining allegorical tale of one man’s conversion from materialistic desire symbolized by his metamorphosis into an ass and accompanying bawdy adventures to the state of pure service of the sublime Goddess. The simple sacrament of Baptism admitted an aspirant into the Christian faith.

8.  Can you tell us about Jesus’ burial in the tomb at Golgotha? And how does this connect to the practice of burial in Roman catacombs?

According to all four canonical gospel accounts, Jesus was placed in a tomb by a councilor of the Sanhedrin named Joseph of Arimathea before the eve of the sabbath. Jewish tradition forbade burial within the walls of a city, so the tomb must have been just outside one of the gates of Jerusalem, likely near to the site of the crucifixion, i.e. the hill called Calvary (from the Latin word calva, “baldhead” or “skull,” and also referred to as the dreaded and ugly Golgotha, from the Aramaic word for “skull”).

When Jesus finally expired after three hours of agony on the cross, Joseph, a devoted disciple of Jesus, a fact he kept secret out of fear of the Jewish authorities, went to the office of Pontius Pilate, the governor of the Roman province of Judaea, and sought permission to remove the body. Permission was granted.

With the help of a certain Nicodemus, the body was taken down and placed in a tomb cut in the cave rock. (All we know about Nicodemus on a personal level is from the Gospel of John (3:1) where he is described as a Pharisee.)  Before placing the body on a limestone shelf or burial bed that was hewn from the wall of the tomb, the two volunteers wrapped it in linen cloth. John tells us that they “wrapped the body with spices in strips of linen”.  In accordance with Jewish burial customs, spices were always applied to ward off odors and to pay homage to the deceased.  Matthew says that after this, Joseph “rolled a huge stone in front of the entrance and went away.”

In their burial procedures down in the catacombs the early Christians emulated the entombment of Jesus in several ways. To receive the body they would carve out a niche (in Latin, loculus) in the wall of a gallery and after applying spices to the body they would clothe it with linen and lay it to rest.The aperture of the loculus would then be closed with brick, terra cotta tiles, or–if a family could afford it–a slab of polished marble.Whatever material was used was sealed air-tight by an outline of mortar, much the same way that putty is used to keep a window pane in place. So completely were the loculi sealed that there was never an offensive odor to contend with in the galleries.Small objects such as coins, bits of colored porcelain, or pieces of glass were at times pushed into the fresh mortar to serve as a means of identification.

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A high-end example of loculi: Valleys of Jehoshaphat and Hinnom [Jerusalem]. Loculi in Absalom’s pillar. Public Domain, Wikimedia Commons

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9.  What are some of the high points in the Christian story as to how Christianity spread from Judea?

Some of the early Christians of Rome had been among the soldiers of the cohort, commanded by a certain Cornelius, stationed in Palestine where they had heard the doctrines of the new faith from the lips of the apostles themselves and, excited by what they learned, asked to be baptized. Also, a delegation of Roman Jews had been at the time on a pilgrimage to the Great Temple in Jerusalem around the time of the first Pentecost, when the apostles took to the streets and squares and by-ways to preach the Gospel. Liking what they heard, they too embraced the tenets of Christianity and soon embarked for Rome.

Upon their return to the imperial capital all these recent converts zealously proselytized among friends, neighbors, and kin. We surmise all this from Acts, Chapter 2:

”When the day of Pentecost had come, they were all together in one place…Now there were staying in Jerusalem Jews, devout men from every nation under Heaven…and there were even visitors from Rome, both Jews and proselytes”

Even Jews from Rome! The phrase seems to leap from the page with astonishment.

Thus a small but devout community of Christians took root in the Eternal City. At first, the Christians were all regarded by the civil authorities as a harmless sect professing a foreign malignant superstition.

10.  Can you characterize early Christians? You mentioned that even emperor Julian thought it was their kindness and love that helped Christianity spread.

One German historian, F. Uhlhorn claims that “before the coming of Christ the world was devoid of love”.  This statement may be an exaggeration but nevertheless it points out the powerful impact Christianity had on the world and the attraction it held right from the start for people of every walk of life, of every rank and economic status, of both genders, of every national origin. 

What struck the pagans most about the Christians in their midst was how they loved one another. How united they were, the support they extended to one another, how they shared their material goods with one another. The Roman authorities came to realize, too, by the second century that the appeal of Christianity was the conduct of its followers, how they were genuinely concerned for the welfare of not only their fellow believers, but also for complete strangers, for forgiveness, for the poor, the homeless, and the sick, for widows and orphans, for the sad and lonely, for the victims of cruelty and injustice, and especially for the dead. The philosophy of the Christian community seemed to be summed up in two words: Love and Charity.

Pagans, when they observed the customs and behavior of the Christians, were often heard to say, in astonishment: “Look how they love one another!” Christianity brought with it to Rome a new attitude, a new view as to what makes for a meaningful life, and that is: to do good for others. The Apostle James’ words on this subject were often quoted by priests in the early Church:

“My brothers and sisters, what good is it to profess faith without practicing it? Such faith has no power to save one, has it: If a brother or sister has nothing to wear and no food for the day, and you say to them;‘Good bye and good luck! Keep warm and eat well but do not meet their bodily needs, what good is that’. Such faith is thoroughly lifeless.”

James joined religion to action: service to God and to humanity.

Christians considered themselves as members of one family. This was so not only in Rome but throughout the cities, towns, and villages throughout the Empire. The faithful made it a point to get to know one another and call one another by their baptismal names. Every bishop felt obliged to get to know every member of his flock and determine the most needy among it. A fellow Christian passing through was welcome to join in a liturgical assembly.

The Emperor Julian (331-353) attributed the expansion of Christianity to all these kindnesses and especially the Church’s commitment to love and respect for the dead, ensuring a decent burial for all.

Indeed, Christians would go looking for bodies left unburried, especially in cities along the coast where victims of shipwrecks might be found scattered along the sands. The faithful, on such an occasion, would wash the body, dress it in fresh garments, then inter it nearby.

11. During various purges the Romans killed Christians. Roman authorities also made it possible for Christians to go free. There are many examples of saints, popes, and others (such as Apollonius) who chose to die rather than repudiate Christianity.

The historian Tacitus confirms that the first persecution – or purge    of the Christians was by the infamous emperor Nero, widely suspected of the fire of A.D. 64:

“In order to stifle the rumor that he had himself set Rome on fire, Nero falsely charged with the guilt and punished with the most fearful tortures the persons commonly called Christians … In their very deaths they were made the subject of sport, for they were covered with the hides of wild beasts and hounded to death by dogs, or nailed to crosses, or set fire to.”

Over the next two and a half-centuries the persecutions of the Christians waxed and waned with varying degrees of intensity and savagery. Some emperors took a tolerant view of them and their religious practices, while others, like Decius and Diocletian and Valerian, rounded them up for slaughter.

Trajan (98-117) is a good example of the more benign Roman rulers. We know for certain that by his time the Christian religion had been firmly established in most of the provinces of the Roman Empire, even though Nero’s decree banning the practice of the cult, under penalty of death, was still on the books.

In the year 111 Pliny the Younger, serving as the provincial governor of Bithynia in Asia Minor, wrote to his friend and boss, the Emperor Trajan, to express alarm at the vast multitude of Christians in his territory:

“The contagion of the Christian superstition is no longer confined  to the cities. It has even invaded the villages and countryside and has seized upon people of every age, class, rank, and gender. Our temples are almost completely abandoned and the sacred rites honoring our gods utterly neglected.”

Well-bred and highly educated, Pliny was a true gentleman and surely anything but blood thirsty. He was simply concerned about the unrest of the pagan majority that this state of affairs was provoking, and looking for the emperor’s help in coming up with a peaceful and humane solution.

Trajan, a refined and erudite individual himself, wrote back that while he could not abnegate the laws still in effect that forbade the practice of Christianity, he too was most reluctant to crack down on its followers. So he toned down the law to eliminate some of its severity. He stated that anonymous charges against them must be completely disregarded, that if any one of them was caught taking part in Christian rituals he or she must be arrested but given three chances to acquit themselves by venerating the effigies of the pagan divinities and renouncing Christ. In so doing, the accused was to be set free. Above all, the emperor firmly stated, “Christiani non conquirendi sunt!” (There must be no round-ups of Christians!)

Despite the earnest efforts of the two leaders, however, many Christians were arrested and many, if not most, refused to pay homage to the deities of the Roman world and denounce their lord and consequently were put to death. St. Apollonius the Apologist was among those martyred.

So while each Christian arrested faced death, the alternative was so very easy; if he or she would only yield to the invitation and temptation to apostasy extended to them, they would then be released on their own recognizance.

12.  Were the catacombs sacred ground?  Did the Roman authorities respect it?  You mentioned the concept of “violatio sepulchri.”

The Christians looked upon the subterranean burial grounds as truly sacred ground—terra sacra—for a number of reasons; The human body remains sacred always, even in death, they believed. Furthermore, among the great numbers of Christians buried in the catacombsmany of them—in the thousands—were martyrs for the faith who, the belief was, were surely in heaven—that is, they were saints. Their bodies alone hallowed the site. And a great many of the early popes chose to be entombed there.

The Roman authorities respected greatly every burial site be it pagan, Jewish, Christian or other. Even during the most ferocious persecutions on the part of the state, the Christian cemeteries enjoyed the protection of a law called Violatio Sepulchri, which forbade the desecration of any graveyard, tomb, mausoleum, and such.

13.  Was the Cypress a symbol and tree of life in the catacombs?  What other symbols and objects were important. What about graffiti?

In classical antiquity the cypress, particularly among the Etruscans, was a symbol of mourning and in the modern era it remains the principal cemetery tree in both the Muslim world and Europe. In the classical tradition, the cypress was associated with death and the underworld because it failed to regenerate when cut back too severely.

Since it is evergreen, the Christian view it as a symbol of everlasting life. Furthermore, a true Christian, it is said, believes that life begins when he or she dies.

Other symbols in the catacombs include the Fish, for the five letters that make up the Greek word ictus served as the initials for this prayer: Jesus Christ Son of God, Savior.

Also the monogram of Christ composed of two Greek letters  – chi and rho – intertwined.

Two early Christian symbols – Alpha and Omega, and the anchor.

The alpha and omega, the first and last letters of the Greek alphabet signifying Christ as the beginning and end of all things.

The anchor, symbolizing the safe arrival of the soul at the harbor of eternity.

The phoenix, symbol of the Resurrection.

And lastly the dove and the olive branch, a symbol of the soul which flies in the peace of God..

As for graffiti, a custom evolved among the pilgrims to the catacombs in the early Middle Ages to etch in messages on the walls of the galleries to document their visit and perhaps a short prayer or invocation of a martyr’s intercession.

 

 

14.   Aside from burial, what were the other uses of the catacombs?

Contrary to a widespread notion, the Christian cemeteries were not secret hiding places. The civil authorities knew very well of all these sites. The idea that the Christians took refuge or even lived for long periods of time down in the catacombs is entirely without merit. The cold and dampness of these dark tunnels    even in summer    could not be tolerated for any extended time.

One additional use besides burial, though, was for family visits to the graves of their loved ones. Another was for liturgical celebrations. Masses were occasionally offered, especially on the memorial days of the martyrs.

When Pope Paul VI was the young monsignor Giovanni Montini in the 1930’s, he was spiritual advisor and chaplain to the Roman branch of FUCI (the Italian Federation of University Students), a group not looked upon kindly by the Mussolini regime and often set upon by Fascist thugs, sometimes necessitating meetings to be held in one or another catacomb site.

15.  Constantine defeated Maxentius  – and it’s total change. Can you explain the Edict of Milan and the changes that took place afterwards?

According to an interview he years later gave to the Church historian Eusebius, Constantine on the eve of battle in 312 with the forces of the Emperor Maxentius, and encamped on the far side of the Milvian Bridge, saw a shining cross in the sky encircled by the words: “In hoc signo vinces,” (In this sign thou shalt conquer). Not knowing what to make of it, he instructed his soldiers to paint crosses on their shields and helmets and to replace the eagle on the army’s standard with a cross. The following day he crushed Maxentius and his legions and afterwards credited the Christians’ God for his triumph.

Soon Constantine began to pave the way for the beleaguered Christianity to become the official state religion. Just when be became a Christian at heart is open to discussion but he must have supported the idea of a Christian state early in his reign, for in 313 he and Licinius, the emperor of the eastern portion of the Empire, met in the northern city of Milan and thence proclaimed the historic Edict of Milan affording the Christians complete freedom of worship.

This action was followed by more and more privileges and even grants of state property.  To Pope Miltiades he gave the Lateran tract of land in the southwest corner of Rome, just inside the Aurelian Walls. This property had belonged in the first century to the nobleman Plautus Lateranus, who was part of a conspiracy to assassinate Nero. The plot was uncovered, the conspirators arrested, and their estates confiscated. On this location, Constantine urged the Bishop of Rome to erect his personal church, i.e. his cathedral. Completed around 326, the cathedral was named for the Savior. Some centuries later it was renamed for the two St. Johns, the Baptist and the Evangelist, and ever since has been called the Basilica of St. John Laterano.  To this day it remains the cathedral of Rome.

Constantine also commissioned the building of a basilica over the grave of St. Peter in the Vatican meadows, which was also heretofore state property, and another over the grave of St. Paul, outside the walls on the Via Ostiense.

16. Can you mention the life and death of Saint Peter and Paul, Sebastian, Agnes and others that are of great importance? Where were they interred?

In the year 67 the apostle Peter, the first bishop of Rome, was crucified in the Circus, i.e. race course, of Nero across the Tiber. His remains were claimed by his followers and laid to rest in a cemetery adjacent to the stadium in an area called Ager Vaticanus—the Vatican Meadows. That same fateful day, tradition says, Paul was taken by a small execution squad to a spot along the road to the seaport of Ostia and decapitated. Another group of Christians saw to it that he received a proper burial in a nearby necropolis. The final resting place of both leaders of the Christian community were marked and became sites of daily veneration by the faithful. When Constantine came to power in 312 and issued his Edict of Milan the following year, he ordered a great basilica to be built over each grave.

The two apostles’ connection with the catacombs is due to stories that have been passed on down through the centuries. When word of the apostles’ death and burial reached the Eastern churches, a delegation of their members journeyed to Rome on a mission to exhume the saints’ relics and bring them back to the land where the two holy men had begun their evangelical work.

Hearing of the plan, the Roman Christians secretly transferred the bodies to the cemeterium ad catacumbas which would in later times be called the Catacomb of St. Sebastian.

There the precious bones lay for a year and seven months, causing the brethren to refer to the site as the Memoria Apostolorum. After this stretch of time the bodies were taken back to their original places of sepulture which once again became focal points of pilgrimage.

Sebastian was an officer in the Roman army with the prestigious rank, Tribune of the First Praetorian Cohert. With the persecution of Christians under Valerian raging in the mid third century, Sebastian courageously stood up to the tyrant and did everything he could to save Christians and to ease their sufferings. Daily he would smuggle food and clothing to the imprisoned and find places of refuge for those being sought by the authorities. He then became a convert.

When Valerian learned of all this he flew into a rage and had the humanitarian officer executed.  The martyred Sebastian was laid to rest in the subterranean cemetery ad catacumbas, which would soon be renamed for him.

Agnes was a lovely girl just twelve years old when she gave her life for the faith under the murderous regime of Diocletian in 304. Her martyrdom deeply moved the community of believers, and ecclesiastical writers across the centuries since have portrayed her as the symbol of youthful purity and the patron saint of young girls. She lies in eternal repose in the catacomb subsequently named for her, outside the walls along the Via Nomentana.

Cecilia was a pious teen-aged daughter of an affluent Christian family.  A devout Christian from childhood, the much beloved young woman was sentenced to death by the executioner’s axe. Roman law stipulated that if a condemned person were to survive three blows of the axe, he or she was to be set free. Cecilia, severely wounded, nonetheless came through the ordeal alive.  For several days she lingered, blood oozing from the deep neck wound. As she lay dying she would occasionally come out of her coma. In these few lucid moments she would softly sing hymns to Christ. (For this reason she came to be the patron saint of music.)  Upon her passing, Cecilia was placed in a crypt in the Catacombs of St. Callistus.

These are but five saints of a great number who are associated in some way with the catacombs.

17.  Can you tell us about the most famous catacombs, especially the one with the nine popes?

The most renowned of all the subterranean Christian cemeteries, in my view, would be the Catacombs of Saint Callistus for its cappella dei papi, chapel of the popes. In this small chamber down on the first level of graves were buried nine of the early popes: Pontianus, Anterus, Fabianus, Lucius, Stephen, SixtusII, Dionysius, Felix and Eutichianus.

Other prominently known burial grounds are the Catacomb of St. Sebastian on the ancient Appian Way; the Catacomb of St. Domitilla on the Via delle Sette Chiese; the Catacomb of St. Agnes on the Via Nomentana; and the Catacomb of Priscilla out on the old salt road, the Via Salaria.

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Catacomb(s) of Callixtus, The Crypt of the Popes. Dnalor 01, (CC BY-SA 3.0), Wikimedia Commons

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The loculus of Pontianus in the Chapel of the Popes.

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18.  You brought out the personality and spirit of the early popes, such as Damasus who loved poetry and put great effort into safeguarding the catacombs. Can you tell us about some of the early popes?

In the Catholic tradition, St. Peter was the first Bishop of Rome. The word pope came into use some time in the next century. It is the anglicized form of the Greek word papa or father. Early on every bishop throughout the Christian world was addressed by this affectionate term, but it was not long before it was reserved strictly for the Bishop of Rome. It is easy to see that the Greek form gives us our words papal and papacy.

Pope Linus succeeded Peter and began and completed his reign in the same ugly climate that caused the brutal end of his predecessor. He too was martyred.

Cletus succeeded Linus. During his pontificate he divided the city of Rome into twenty-five parishes.

Clement, the third successor of St. Peter and hence the fourth pope, is best known for his letter known as I Clement, the most important first century Christian Document outside the New Testament. It was treated by some in the ancient Church as if it were in fact part of the New Testament canon. Clement, we know too, lived a few blocks down from the newly built Flavian Amphitheater which the world prefers to call “The Colosseum”, and that he allowed his home to be used as a domus ecclesiae, house church. It still exists.

19.  So war, bandits. and disease caused the catacombs to be sealed off. Around when did that happen? Which catacombs remained opened? And which ones had to be rediscovered? Is the situation with the catacombs like Pompeii with more things waiting to be uncovered?

The peacetime of Christians and indeed of all inhabitants of Rome was shattered at the onset of the fifth century. In 408, Alaric and his West Goths laid siege to Rome and in 410 breached the walls and ravaged and plundered the city. This would be the first of many invasions to come.

Sometimes the rampagers even looted, desecrated, and damaged the catacombs across the following centuries.

The year 750 brought the unwelcome Aistulf and his Lombards. After sacking Rome, the invaders fanned out across the campagna seeking accesses to every underground cemetery to gain whatever they thought could be of any value, particularly the remains of martyrs. They carted away countless saintly relics for which there was a busy market across Christian Europe.  It seems that bishops, abbots, and pastors hoping to lend more prestige to their cathedrals, their monasteries, their churches by being able to claim that the moral remains of a martyr were reposing beneath their altars  – were the most eager customers.

These outrages left the catacombs in a state of devastation and now for the most part pilgrimages stopped and the catacombs fell into utter ruin and decay. The one one of these holy sites to remain known and occasionally visited during the long dreary Middle Ages was that of St. Sebastian. And in time this site too, was forsaken and forgotten.

In the autumn of 1578, however, something occurred just outside the ancient brick walls of Rome, along the Via Salaria, that precipitated a wave of excitement that washed over the Eternal City and ultimately paved the way for Christians ever after to examine, close up, their religious roots. It was at that time that workers digging for pozzolana in the fields of the lovely and serene Roman countryside were daily and accidentally coming upon entrances and light shafts  – for long centuries concealed from view    that led down to a subterranean cemetery of the earliest Christians. (This was later determined to be the Catacombs of St. Priscilla.)

Like Pompeii and Herculaneum, the Roman catacombs have troves of treasures waiting to be brought to light.

20.  In times past, it might have been easy to get lost down there in the catacombs, right?  It’s like any huge, dark winding space. I was there some years ago. I recall that you mentioned visits by St. Jerome (as a child), Goethe, Charles Dickens and others.

Some catacombs go as far as five levels deep into the subsoil. When all the burial space of the original corridor was used up, another would be excavated at a right angle to it, and when that was filled still another gallery was dug and then another and another and so on, resulting ultimately in a complex and confusing network of intersecting tunnels    a virtual labyrinth.

When all the available space on that first level was exhausted, the fossores, i.e. grave diggers, would break through the floor and bore a shaft down further into the soil and start a second level of tunnels beneath the original.  In some catacombs there are as many as five levels, reaching in all a depth of seventy feet or more below the surface.  Thus the farther down one goes, the newer the graves will be.

When the Jews and early Christians descended into one of these cemeteries for a funeral or a visit to the final resting place of a dear one, they needed the services of a guide who had an expert familiarity with the maze. It was indeed easy and most perilous to get lost in the jumble of passage ways. Even in our time, visitors to these depths are exhorted to “stay close to your guide”.

In Goethe’s time in Rome, 1788, of course there was still no electric lighting. Visitors had to trudge along the solemn subterranean passages accompanied by a well-versed guide, all holding burning candles to illuminate their way. The German poet and dramatist had this to say about his experience: “My visit to the catacomb, however, was not much of a success. I had hardly taken a step into that airless and foreboding place before I began to feel uncomfortable and insecure, and I immediately returned to the light of day and the fresh air and waited, in that unknown and remote corner of the city, for the return of the others.”

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A Procession in the Catacomb of Callistus. Painting by Alberto Pisa. Public Domain, Wikimedia Commons

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Charles Dickens’ reaction was similar: “A giant friar with a wild bright eye, was our only guide down into this profound and dreadful place. The narrow ways and openings, hither and thither, coupled with the dead and heavy air, soon blotted out, in all of us, any recollection of the route by which we had come; and I could not help thinking, ‘Good Heaven, if in a sudden fit of madness, he should dash the torches out, or if he should be seized with a spell, what would become of us!’”

My family and I can readily relate to Dickens’ alarm at the awful possibilities. One evening in the summer of 1970, after public visiting hours, a guide at the Catacombs of St. Calisstus, Joseph Mascarenhas, a religious brother in the Salesian order which manages that cemetery and was by now a dear family friend, took us down deep into the third and fourth levels    only the first and second are accessible to the public. I was doing research as a Fulbright Scholar at the American Academy in Rome on the Greek and Latin epitaphs of the catacombs and Brother Joe wished to afford me the rare privilege of copying and translating those on the lower levels. Our only illumination was Brother Joe’s lantern. After our ascent to the surface I learned that my wife Camille and our little sons, Frank, Ronald, and John  – had been having the same thought as Dickens: “If anything happens to Brother Joe what will become of us?!”

21.  Can you tell us about those archeologists of the catacombs. Antonio Bosio and Giovanni Battista De Rossi?

An enormous debt of gratitude for the reemergence of the catacomb sites after their long hiatus in the Middle Ages is due to a young man with a keen intellect and an unquenchable curiosity, Antonio Bosio (1575-1629). Born on the island of Malta, he was early on sent to Rome to live with an uncle who happened to be that island nation’s ambassador to the Holy See. Scholarly by nature, he pursued studies in literature, philosophy, and law at the University of Rome.

His heart and thoughts, however, were elsewhere. He could not get his mind off the wonders of his Christian heritage waiting to be explored deep beneath the earth. At age 18 he gave up his studies to devote himself full-time to systematically probing the galleries of the newly rediscovered cemetery of St. Priscilla and to poring over tomes of early Christian literature and the Acts of the Martyrs in an effort to learn the locations of other catacombs on the outskirts of Rome in every direction.

He would set out for places indicated in these sources and scour the land for hidden entrance shafts. He kept voluminous notes on his findings, made sketches of the galleries, loculi and cubicula (small chambers), translated Latin and Greek epitaphs into Italian. His magnum opus, Roma Sotteranea, was published in 1632, three years after his passing. Bosio came to be called, “The Columbus of the Catacombs”.

Some two centuries later another genius comes along who was destined to be a second Bosio.  Giovanni Battista De Rossi, a twenty three-year-old Roman recently graduated from the university with a major in archaeology, had a particular interest in the subterranean cemeteries of the early Christians.

On a sultry summer afternoon of 1844, he and his kid brother Michele, aged ten, walking through a vineyard that lay between the Via Appia and the Via Ardeatina just outside the city walls, came upon a pile of fragments of polished marble neatly engraved with Latin words.  Giovanni asks the landowner for permission to gather the chunks and take them home.  Thinking the objects worthless, the owner readily concedes.

Back home, after weeks of jigsawing the pieces and their engraved words together, De Rossi excitedly concludes that they are from epitaphs of the catacomb name for St. Callistus, an early pope, the whereabouts of which had still been unknown since the Middle Ages but about which Giovanni had heard and read in his student days.

He devoted the rest of his life to bringing to light and restoring order to what is today considered the major and largest catacomb of them all, St. Callistus.

22.  Do you have any favorite movies that depict Roman catacombs or any Roman ruins?  Do you have a favorite quote from Christianity?

I am not aware of any Hollywood production that covers, in even the slightest way, the Roman catacombs. There may exist some television documentaries on them. Perhaps Channel EWTN, a Catholic outlet would be worth checking.

For a quote on Christianity, I have always favored one by Benjamin Franklin. While the word itself is not mentioned, the allusion is crystal clear:

“As to Jesus of Nazareth, I think the system of morals and his religion as he left them to us, is the best the world ever saw, or is likely to ever see.”

Ah Rome.  Eternal Rome.  How Camille and I never cease to wonder at the wonder of it all.

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Note: The fascinating and informative book,  Below Rome: The Story of the Catacombs, by Frank and Camille Korn is available at Amazon.

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About the interviewer

As a child, Richard Marranca was given books on history, myth and religion that ignited his interests. When he was seven, he went with his mom, grandmother and aunt to Italy and Switzerland – a trip that lasted a lifetime. During his doctoral studies at New York University, he spent a semester in Greece with a side project in Egypt. Around the midpoint of his career, he also was awarded a Fulbright to teach at LMU Munich (and for two years was president of NJ Fulbright chapter), as well as six NEH summer seminars, including Andean Worlds in Peru/Bolivia; Concord MA; and High Plains Indians of Nebraska.

For Richard, teaching and writing go together; he teaches a variety of humanities and English courses. His most recent publications include stories in Coneflower Café, The Raven’s Perch and Months to Years Magazine; interviews in Popular Archaeology and Minerva; and poetry in the Paterson Literary Review. His manuscript, Speaking of the Dead, has been accepted for publication by Blydyn Square Books in NJ.

The latest project: His wife Renah, daughter Hera and Richard create videos, the latest being Childe Hera’s World on YouTube; so far it’s mostly travel videos, but this year the highlight was Coronavirus, A Child’s View.

His story, Affirmative Action, published in Coneflower Review, was recently nominated for a Pushcart Prize.

Richard wishes to thank his wife Renah and Bridget Briant for their help with this interview.

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The Pantheon. Djedj, Pixabay

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Invisible Beauty

Arianna Zakrzewski is an intern and writer for Popular Archaeology. She is also a graduate from Rhode Island College with a Bachelor’s degree in Anthropology. She has had an interest in archaeology since elementary school, specifically Egyptology and the Classics. In recent years, she has also gained an interest in historical archaeology, and has spent time in the field working in St. Mary’s City, Maryland, participating in excavation and archival research. Most recently, she completed her MA in Museum Studies from Johns Hopkins University. She is currently focused on collections management and making archaeological discoveries accessible and exciting to the public.

In January 2021, the Penn Museum will reopen its doors once again, welcoming visitors with their new upcoming exhibit, Invisible Beauty: The Art of Archaeological Science. With this, visitors will get an exclusive behind-the-scenes look at the science of archaeology in the lab, and the beauty hidden within ordinary objects of our past. “One of the reasons for this exhibit is to highlight what we do in the laboratory, what archaeologists and anthropologists do in the laboratory when they’re not excavating,” explains Dr. Marie-Claude Boileau, the Director of the Center for the Analysis of Archaeological Materials (CAAM) at the Penn Museum, University of Pennsylvania. “When we do have a few visitors that come and see us in the lab, they look down a microscope and they’re really blown away by what objects look like at higher magnification. There’s a beauty to these images and there’s also a lot of information, particularly showing how a very tiny sample is really packed with information about the past.”

CAAM was founded in 2014 by the Penn Museum and the School of Arts and Sciences at the University of Pennsylvania. Dr. Boileau, explains, “This was part of the big push for the museum to bring in students into the museum to do research and take formal classes, which really complements the museum’s Academic Engagement department.” Students of CAAM have the unique opportunity to study archeological science, an interdisciplinary field bridging the gap between the hard sciences and the humanities by researching and studying objects and specimens from the museum. “That’s actually how we captured some of these images,” says Dr. Boileau. Invisible Beauty showcases the various areas of studies students can explore during their academic careers in CAAM, from archaeobotanical remains to landscapes and more.

According to Dr. Sarah Linn, a University of Pennsylvania Alumna herself, “It is exciting that there are students who have now taken CAAM courses throughout their entire career at Penn. Undergraduates begin in these introductory courses and they ultimately come out as amazing archaeobotanists or zooarchaeologists. There is also an enormous amount of support for students doing Ph.D.’s and other intensive research projects. When I started my Ph.D. at Penn in 2009 we had nothing like this. These students have the incredible opportunity to do their coursework and then pursue their dissertations with remarkable support from archaeometallurgists and ceramics specialists. It is a great program that dovetails really nicely with the work we do in Academic Engagement, allowing us to support students in a robust way. This exhibit provides an additional opportunity for students to gain experience showcasing their work to the public.”

Invisible Beauty shows various objects from research being conducted by the Penn Museum and CAAM, imaged to reveal hidden informatio. Dr. Linn, a Mediterranean archaeologist who works closely with graduate students, was discussing a microscopic image with student Olivia Hayden [who has since completed her Ph.D.] when the idea for Invisible Beauty was born. “While talking to [Dr. Hayden] about her research and some of the images she’d been capturing throughout her research in CAAM, I was just struck by an incredibly beautiful image of a bronze needle from Cyprus. It has a great story behind it as well, but it is also just visually appealing. I reached out to Dr. Boileau, who was also excited about showing some of these images to the public, and we realized that we could do an exhibit that captures the visual appeal, but that also leads to some great stories and highlights the work we are doing in the labs, and out in the field as well.”

The exhibit showcases a range of images from around the world, spanning dates from approximately 40,000 BCE to 1967 CE. In addition to the bronze needle that started it all, visitors will also enjoy magnified images of a microscopic diatom, ceramic materials, obsidian used by students in experimental archaeology trials, textiles, and more. “One image shows a copper alloy dagger that was wrapped in a textile when it was buried, but over time the corrosion took over the textile itself, and it actually took the shape of the fibers,” Dr. Boileau explains. “We call these pseudomorphs, and so we actually have the view of what the textile weaving pattern would have looked like [had it been preserved in its original form].” All images are displayed alongside information about the instruments and magnification used to capture the images.

Some images are displayed alongside the actual object that was studied in the lab, as well. “Some of them are almost complete,” Dr. Boileau explains. “So visitors can appreciate those, but we’re also showing objects and specimens you normally would not see in an exhibit; these are fragmentary, like broken pieces of pottery, maybe very small, and they might look like there’s nothing exciting about them, but then you put them under the microscope and it comes to life.”

Not only is Invisible Beauty an aesthetically pleasing exhibit to explore, but it also showcases the kind of information archaeologists can obtain by conducting these scientific studies on everyday objects. “Scale is a big part of this,” says Dr. Linn. “We have images ranging from the microscopic diatom, which is magnified more than twenty-thousand times, all the way to large-scale landscapes in Turkey.” The magnification of these objects and specimens can also reveal important information about the crafting of everyday objects, as was the case with Dr. Hayden’s bronze needle. “The image is a striking gold-colored swirl,” Dr. Linn explains. “The object itself is not much to look at—it is a corroded bronze needle, so it really doesn’t look like much. But when you get to the actual metal and take a tiny sample of it, it’s beautiful and you can learn so much about it.” Dr. Hayden conducted a great deal of research on two needles discovered together in a tomb at a site called Lapithos on Cyprus, consisting of various forms of analysis, including elemental analysis and microscopy. She suggests the needles were actually made by the same craftsperson. Her goal was to determine how the craft is transmitted, not just the material. “As archaeologists we focus so much on trade and how people are learning to do these crafts, so to have two objects made by the same person is incredible,” she says. “You can see the swirl marks on this image that show how the craftsperson was actually turning the needle as they were hammering it.”

Dr. Boileau and Dr. Linn hope that visitors will come away from this behind-the-scenes look at the lab work done by researchers at the Penn Museum with a better understanding of the kinds of work archaeologists do when they’re not in the field, and with a sense of wonder. They want to ignite a curiosity in their viewers about objects and the information that can be unlocked when looking at things at these scales.

Invisible Beauty can be enjoyed by visitors at the Penn Museum from January 2021 to June 2021.

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About the Penn Museum

The Penn Museum (the University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology) is dedicated to the study and understanding of human history and diversity. Founded in 1887, the Museum has sent more than 300 archaeological and anthropological expeditions to all the inhabited continents of the world. With an active exhibition schedule and educational programming for children and adults, the Museum offers the public an opportunity to share in the ongoing discovery of humankind’s collective heritage.

The museum is located at 3260 South Street, Philadelphia, PA 19104 (on Penn’s campus, across from Franklin Field). Public transportation to the Museum is available via SEPTA’s Regional Rail Line at University City Station; the Market-Frankford Subway Line at 34th Street Station; trolley routes 11, 13, 34, and 36; and bus routes 21, 30, 40, and 42. Museum hours are Tuesday through Sunday, 10:00 am to 5:00 pm. Museum admission donation is $18 for adults; $16 for senior citizens (65 and above); $13 for children ages 6-17. Admission to the Penn Museum is FREE for U.S. military, reservist personnel, and veterans, teachers, and children ages 5 and under.

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When Rome Burned

July 19, 64 AD.

Evening fell.

 

 

Shopkeepers had already retired to their homes — another routine night to relax and tend to their domestic matters after a long day’s work. At night it was usually very quiet among the closed shops that hug the environs of Rome’s Circus Maximus where, during daylight hours on some days, one could hear the roar of the crowds as they reveled in the excitement of the race. On this night, however, the quiet was broken with the whistle and howl of a robust wind.

An evening of hefty wind was nothing to cause alarm or fear. But when coupled with an errant flame in a flammable, unattended little shop, it could set the stage for a perfect storm.

It did.

To this day, no one knows exactly what caused the initial flame, but it quickly spread from its original shop to its neighbors. With next to no space separating one establishment from the next, and a wind that would respect no demand to stop, the flames engulfed and consumed anything that would burn, including the vulnerable upper story wood structure of the Circus Maximus itself.

Meeting no resistance, the fire spread up and across the monumental and palatial community of the Palatine Hill, where Rome’s imperial family and wealthy aristocracy resided. Those who could flee in time escaped with their lives, but the fire continued to ravage the city beyond the Palatine into the lower reaches of the city to destroy the crowded tenements that housed the city’s poorer classes, where the carnage was most devastating.

Rome is Burning

Known to history as the Great Fire of Rome, ancient scholars and writers have written their various accounts of the event. Now, author Anthony Barrett has produced arguably the most comprehensive and detailed treatment of the fiery disaster with the publication of his book, Rome is Burning: Nero and the Fire that Ended a Dynasty, to be released by Princeton University Press in November, 2020. He draws upon the historical record and previous scholarship, including the writings of iconic ancient Roman writer/historians like Tacitus, Seutonias, and Cassius Dio, to not only paint a detailed portrait of the event but also suggest and expound on how it changed the course of Rome’s imperial history, particularly the Julio-Claudio dynasty, with Nero at the forefront of its demise. 

What may be most compelling for readers and enthusiasts of archaeology, however, is his in-depth narrative treatment of the various archaeological discoveries that have revealed clear evidence attributable to the Great Fire destruction. Much of this evidence came to light during excavations beginning in 1981, and continuing from 1986 under the direction of Clementina Panella. In those investigations, for example, excavators uncovered fragments of the Doric frieze of an Augustan column, which showed unmistakable signs of having been burned; burned remains of steps that once led to a small temple located in the northeast corner of the Palatine; a grate that had been badly distorted by intense heat among fallen debris and basalt fragments clearly shattered by heat and bricks that had collapsed upon it; floors and pavements burned by intense fire; and burned shop and household items such as pots and other pottery, remnants of carbonized wood, ash, as well as burned metal objects.

Barrett also relates in detail the nature of the Fire’s aftermath through an analysis of the historical documents and literature and the archaeological evidence, including the persecution of the Christians, historically cited as one of Nero’s scapegoats for the Fire’s causation, and the New Rome that emerged architecturally from the ruins (which included Nero’s lavish new Golden House on the Palatine). Particularly noteworthy is his treatment of other conditions of the aftermath, such as the currency devaluation and financial crisis that impacted the Roman Empire for years to come.

All in all, Barrett’s work exemplifies the latest, most detailed and generously illustrated narrative about the Great Fire to date, and would be an asset on the shelf of anyone, scholar or enthusiast, interested in the archaeology and history of Rome.

Anthony A. Barrett is a Distinguished University Professor Emeritus at the University of British Columbia and also a visiting professor at the University of Heidelberg. His previous books include Livia: First Lady of Imperial Rome and Caligula: The Abuse of Power, among others.

Rome is Burning: Nero and the Fire that Ended a Dynasty can be purchased from Princeton University Press.

Cover Image, Top Left: The Fire of Rome, oil on canvas painting, 1785, Hubert Robert 

Image, middle right: The Fire of Rome, oil on canvas painting, 1787, Hubert Robert

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The Herculaneum Papyri

For years after England’s defeat of the French in Egypt, ancient Egyptian artifacts streamed into England. The most famous of these, the Rosetta Stone, was unveiled in 1802; in 1808, the architect Sir John Soane famously gutted his Holborn residence, creating a top-lit, three-story void, at the bottom of which reposed an Egyptian sarcophagus, glittering with traces of its original gilt. But not every dislocated artifact enjoyed such a celebratory reception. Smaller, less attention-grabbing items also circulated, mainly among specialists and antiquarians, providing less spectacular but arguably more meaningful opportunities for scholars to engage with the ancient past.

One of these modest artifacts was a cache of carbonized papyri scrolls discovered in the ruins of Herculaneum. Found in Naples when the city became an English protectorate, the rolls came to the attention of the Prince of Wales who, during the six years of English rule that followed, spearheaded an effort to unroll and transcribe them. He selected the Reverend John Hayter, future chaplain to George IV, to oversee the project. In 1800, Hayter claimed to have opened two hundred of the charred scrolls. Two assistants, Carlo Orazj and Giuseppe Casanova, produced apographs (scribal facsimiles) of some, if not all, of them.

When the French reconquered Naples in 1806, the court absconded to Palermo with the apographs. In August 1807, the newly appointed English plenipotentiary to the area, William Drummond, convinced the court at Palermo to hand them over.  He passed them to Hayter, who managed to engrave only part of one. This disappointing performance may have reflected the encroachment of other interests, since a year later Drummond excoriated him for his involvement in a series of sexual scandals, including one involving a Neapolitan baron’s daughter. “I am sick of the stories of your battles in the brothels,” Drummond griped, not omitting to point out that even while at Naples, Hayter had opened only half as many scrolls as he had claimed. After dismissing Hayter, Drummond convinced the court to allow the apographs to be sent to England for publication under the auspices of their longtime royal champion the Prince of Wales, who transferred them to Oxford, where they remain.

Meanwhile, a set of similar scrolls had come to the attention of one Thomas Young. Young [pictured right], who eventually made a serious bid to decipher the Egyptian hieroglyphs, was at this time merely an up-and-coming London physician and occasionally dabbler in ancient scripts. A handful of people, including officials from the Royal Society and the British Museum, were attempting to determine the best method of unrolling the papyri, and Young was selected to assist. His medical and scientific training were particular points of favor, for he was known “to have formerly employed himself in minute anatomy” and had considerable skill in experimental physics and chemistry.

Working on the scrolls, Young experienced firsthand the physicality of an ancient object. The scrolls’ recalcitrant forms, their materiality, demanded his dexterity, honed from years of painstaking anatomical dissection and experimental work. He was no less dexterous in making sense of these ancient linguistic remains by linking their spatial dispositions to meaning. These methods carried forward into his engagement with Egyptian hieroglyphs.

To unroll the papyri, Young devised a method that drew on his anatomical expertise. Breathing humid air through a tube onto the charred scroll, Young attempted to use an “anatomical blowpipe” instead of “a dissecting knife.” The method was reminiscent of one recalled, years later, by an unnamed fellow at Cambridge who had “once found [Young] blowing smoke through long tubes, and I afterwards saw a representation of the effect in the Transactions of the Royal Society to illustrate one of his papers upon sound.” To keep unfurled leaves apart, Young proposed the use of goldbeater’s skin, the fine coating of a lamb’s intestine used to make gold leaf, following the practice of Antonio Piaggi, a monk, who was the first and most successful unroller of papyri scrolls. When this expedient failed, Young tried “chemical agents of all kinds,” even “maceration for six months in water,” to little avail. He proposed, presciently enough, leaving to the future further work with these fragile relics.

In 1810, two classical scholars, William Drummond and Robert Walpole, published a volume, the Herculanensia, containing “archaeological and philological dissertations” on the papyri and transcriptions of “a manuscript found among the ruins of Herculaneum.” Walpole, a rector in Norfolk, had graduated Cambridge with a prize for a Greek ode; his translation of Greek comic fragments into Latin and English verse appeared in 1805.  Drummond, of course, was the appalled administrator who had berated Hayter years before. 

Drummond had by this time established himself as a classical scholar. In 1805, he published Academical Questions, a controversial plea for ancient philosophy as a prophylactic against dangers presented by modern thought. “Let not those, who would be steady in their opposition to all speculative reasoning, and who would still persevere in imposing new fetters on philosophy, ever tread the soil where the sages of Greece conversed with their disciples,” he opined. Translating the Herculaneum papyri, Drummond hoped to find support for his positions.

Dedicated to the Prince of Wales, the Herculanensia consisted of ten essays or “dissertations” ranging from the population and topography of Herculaneum through discussions of the Greek language, Roman painting, and materials used in writing. Some were written by Drummond, others by Walpole. The eighth, by Drummond, engaged the paleography of the scrolls. The ninth, also by Drummond, provided a discussion, transcription, and emended text of a “manuscript of Herculaneum” that, he claimed, bore the title περι των θεων (On the Gods)—and this was where he hoped to find the evidence he so badly needed.

Drummond maintained that the manuscript represented “the sentiments of an Epicurean, concerning the system of theism professed by the Stoics,” and that it had roused Cicero to write De Natura Deorum (On the Nature of the Gods). Drummond was not concerned with the transcription and emendation per se, for which he declared to have relied on the “Academicians of Portici,” a group that had been working with the papyri in Naples since the 1750s. These, he assumed, were the fragmented manuscript’s emending editors—a curious position since, having employed Hayter and his crew, he had good reason to think otherwise, for Hayter had authored both transcription and emendation. Rather, Drummond was principally interested in finding Epicurean accusations against the Stoics.

To Drummond, then, the scrolls represented an opportunity to pursue his philosophical axe-grinding. To others, the scrolls represented an opportunity to pursue the more modest work of correction and emendation. Charles James Blomfield, a fellow of Trinity College who reviewed the Herculanensia for the Edinburgh Review, was unenthused by the papyri, observing that at  least  one of the manuscripts “is in a very mutilated state; and, from the mode in which it is printed, any attempt to fill it up from conjecture is almost a hopeless task; but, in fact, it does not seem to be worth much trouble; and if all the unedited Papyri contain matter as little interesting as those already published, no good is likely to result from their being given to the world, but an accession to our stock of paleographical knowledge”—and not even that, he continued, “unless future editors will give accurate copies.” Following Drummond, Blomfield attributed the effort to correct parts that could not clearly be read to “the Academicians of Portici” whose labors were “often singularly unhappy, but sometimes successful.” Drummond had only offered “one or two conjectures” of his own, though nothing extensive; neither did he essay a translation.

As Blomfield’s review of the Herculanensia wended into print, Young was writing his own response, a substantial essay of twenty pages, for the Quarterly Review. Buoyed by his firsthand experiences with unrolling papyri scrolls, Young hailed the appearance of the Herculanensia, a “highly interesting volume,” as “a memorable event in the history of classical literature.” He   commended the “profound erudition and extensive knowledge” of Drummond and Walpole, and even quoted at some length Drummond’s account of the scrolls’ history. Brief remarks, also positive, followed concerning the first four dissertations. But the fifth, by Drummond, attracted Young’s criticism. Drummond, he wrote, had been “somewhat precipitate in his conjecture respecting the sense of a passage in the Bacchae of Euripides,” which Young proceeded extensively to correct. He made other “observations” of this sort, his critique escalating until he reached the eighth dissertation, by Walpole, on paleography.

In 1807, Walpole had observed that all but one of the opened scrolls were written in Greek, in capital letters with neither spaces nor accents. Yet Walpole insisted that accents had existed as early as 248 BCE, citing for evidence the orthographic features of a Herculaneum wall inscription and passages from several authors. Young, in contrast, merely recurred to a “usual belief” that accents had been invented a half century later by Aristophanes of Byzantium. This apparently minor orthographic question was of surprisingly profound significance. Its resolution would shape any attempt to restore the text of the fragment, as specialists in paleography knew from long and hard experience.

Debates concerning Greek accents, particularly in ancient poetry, had been ongoing for at least a century and a half. In De poematum cantu et viribus rythmi (1673), the Dutch scholar Isaac Vossius had averred that accents were ignorable late inventions. A half-century later, John Foster, a master at Eton, where the use of accents in teaching Greek was a sine qua non, revived the matter. In a diatribe against Vossius, Foster claimed that orthographic elements such as accents were closely tied to pronunciation and to the anatomical organs of speech. According to Foster, Vossius had failed to consider that “as vocal sounds are formed by organs of speech which are essential and immutable parts of our nature, they must have been in all ages substantially and formally the same, tho’ variously modified in their application.” From this foundation, Foster constructed an argument “drawn from the nature of speech itself” as proof of the early existence of accents.

Young may not have read Foster—there is no evidence that he did—but he would certainly have agreed that inscription necessarily connected to speech. As a student, Young had been interested in phonemes in relation to writing, and he had absorbed the argument, made by the eighteenth-century grammarian Gregory Sharpe, that the earliest writing to capture speech—Hebrew, Sharpe believed—necessarily omitted accents. Although Young might have agreed with Sharpe about that, he had no doubts about the appropriateness of supplying accents to capture the sonic expressiveness of discourse. He even criticized Drummond for “disfiguring” his Greek by omitting them.

Just as Young took exception to Walpole and Drummond’s representation of pronunciation, he also objected to the transcription and translation of the manuscript fragment that appeared in Herculanensia. Because Young held that inscribed meaning depended upon the spatial imprinting of sound in specific ways, it was essential to consider the physical placement of words in the Herculaneum papyri. Young faulted Drummond’s transcriptions for being insufficiently attentive to location, in particular to the blank places where words might once have been. Attending to the spatial character of the scroll, Young proposed a different restitution of the passage. This effort elevated Young’s status as a classical scholar; no longer could he be considered a dilettante. According to his first biographer, Young’s review “at once placed its author, in the estimation of the public, in the first class of the scholars of the age.”

It is not hard to understand why. The differences between the Herculanensia’s fragment and Young’s reconstruction reflect his conviction that, when attempting to determine the meaning of inscriptions of a phonographic language, one must take into account the spatial arrangement of the inscription—and his results were surprisingly accurate.

Though he had not seen Casanova’s original, Young was skeptical of Hayter’s version, which departed from Casanova’s in several respects. Although the original was entirely uppercase and lacked spaces, Hayter had rendered it in lowercase with lacunae. He appended a reconstruction of the text that filled in these empty spaces, substituting words and phrases where Casanova struggled to read the text.

Certain that the sense of the document could only be divined from a reproduction that did not introduce such elements, Young produced “a specimen of the state of the manuscript,” giving “its first page, which is the most defective, as nearly as possible in the form in which we suppose it to stand.”  To restore the physical form of the fragment, Young carefully reworked the Herculanensia text, eliminating spaces and using only uppercase letters. Young’s restoration matches up well with the original apograph—which, again, he had not seen. In line 17, for example, Young eliminated spaces and moved the letters, now uppercase, to the right, precisely as in the (unseen) apograph. To six lines of the Herculanensia version, Young added a letter to make sense of a word. In one amended line (no. 26) Young omitted six letters—των ανο—from the Herculanensia’s transcription. “This line,” Young wrote, “as printed, contains twenty-five letters, and is totally unintelligible.” But, Young continued, by omitting the offending phrase, the sense “may be made to accord perfectly with the context.” Comparing his version to the apograph by Casanova, we find that he has matched the spacing of the apograph correctly.

Not content merely to regenerate the original on which the apograph was based, Young next recreated the entire passage. His notes no longer survive, but they were available to Peacock as he wrote Young’s biography. According to Peacock, Young had worked “an exquisite copy of the entire manuscript— which is now before me—with the lacunae filled up in a differently coloured ink.” This expedient had eventuated in an “intelligible text, which is good Greek,” while allowing “the reader to judge of the propriety and probability of the restorations which are proposed, not only with reference to the space which they occupy, but likewise to the words or portions of words which precede and follow them.”

Young also found grounds for changing the fragment’s title. Instead of the Herculanensia’s περι των θεων (which appeared nowhere in the transcription), Young extracted ΠΕΡΙ ΕΥΣΕΒΕΙΑΣ ΚΑΤ ΕΠΙΚΟΥΡΟΝ from the final four lines, leading him to retitle the passage as “A Treatise on Piety, according to Epicurus.” This result differed completely from Drummond’s, with devastating effects on the latter’s argument concerning Cicero. Having translated the title as “On the Gods,” Drummond was convinced that the fragment had provided Cicero with the fourteenth, fifteenth, and sixteenth chapters of his De Natura Deorum, in which Cicero has Gaius Velleius represent Epicureans. Young demurred, and to prove the point he translated the passage of Cicero to which Drummond referred and listed the supposedly comparable lines. “The reports are not by any means so precisely similar,” he wrote, “as to induce us to suppose, that Cicero had ever undertaken the justifiable liberty of saving himself some little trouble by making use” of another author’s work. This coup de grâce was preceded by a complete translation into English of the re-created passage.

Triumphantly Young concluded: “We are very sorry to observe how lamentably the modern Academicians of Portici,” that is, Hayter, “have fallen short of their predecessors.” In response Hayter sought Drummond’s support. Young’s emendations to the apograph particularly irritated Hayter who, finding them entirely faulty, told Drummond that “the supposed facsimile of the Reviewer is not a facsimile of the original, neither in the distances, nor in the form of the characters.” Hayter may have claimed as much, but we have already seen that, “facsimile” or not, Young’s proposed revision of the transcription does fairly well match the original.

Because Young’s critique implicitly tarnished the diligence and competence of the apograph’s transcriber, Hayter devoted much of his reply to insisting that his dimensions for the lacunae were accurate. Not only had they been “taken with much care by the copyist,” but Hayter had also personally checked them against the original. He insisted that his own “conjectural letters” took account of potential sources of copying errors, and perhaps he had—though Young’s point was not that the Herculanensia’s transcription added too many letters for the extant spacing, but that it made little sense. Finally, Hayter claimed that, unlike his own reconstitution, Young’s emendations did not fit the apograph. In Young’s original “facsimile”—or a copy of it, obtained perhaps from Young himself—Hayter spied an apparent inconsistency with Young’s printed revision. In the ninth line of his reconstruction of the apograph, Young gave ΔωΡΕΑΝ, “free,” for Hayter’s lowercase δορεαν, whereas in Young’s proposed reconstitution, the word ΜωρΙαν, “folly,” appears instead. The apograph’s ninth line does seem to contain a Δ, but the letter, being broken, was hard to read. Young had substituted “folly” because the latter, which made sense in context, justified his emendation of a character that Casanova may well have mistaken. Hayter nevertheless fastened on this anomaly as evidence of Young’s incompetence.

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A papyrus scroll, carbonized from the volcanic destruction of Herculaneum during the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD. Paz estrada, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license, Wikimedia Commons

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With this foray into the words and inscriptions of antiquity, Young revived his longstanding interest in languages, their origins, and the ways in which their sounds could be visually represented; in this way, his immersion in the Herculaneum papyri prepared him for his confrontation with the scripts of ancient Egypt. His adversary, Hayter, did not benefit nearly as much. Printed privately, Hayter’s response seems to have had little effect, perhaps because he had unwisely included Drummond’s letter of rather lukewarm support with the publication. That Young’s review was published anonymously may have reduced any pressure he felt to reply, which he did not. The damage, at any rate, had been done. Four decades later, Peacock noted that “no subsequent attempt was made to re-establish the character of Mr. Hayter as a scholar, or to vindicate his conduct with respect to the abandonment of the papyri and of the copies made of them.”

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Editor’s Note: Thomas Young later went on to make important contributions to the decipherment of Egyptian hieroglyphs, particularly the Rosetta Stone, before Jean-François Champollion expanded on his work and achieved the task.

This article is excerpted from THE RIDDLE OF THE ROSETTA: How an English Polymath and a French Polyglot Discovered the Meaning of Egyptian Hieroglyphs, by Jed Z. Buchwald and Diane Greco Josefowicz. Copyright © 2020 by Princeton University Press. Reprinted by permission.

Readers who want to read more can purchase the book, The Riddle of the Rosetta, which will publish this fall (Sept. 15th, 2020). In this book, authors Jed Buchwald and Diane Josefowicz relate the story of the race between philologists Thomas Young and Francois Champollion to decipher the Rosetta Stone, including their different approaches to ancient Egyptian material culture. The book can be purchased at Princeton University Press.

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African Treasure

Arianna Zakrzewski is an intern and writer for Popular Archaeology. She is also a graduate from Rhode Island College with a Bachelor’s degree in Anthropology. She has had an interest in archaeology since elementary school, specifically Egyptology and the Classics. In recent years, she has also gained an interest in historical archaeology, and has spent time in the field working in St. Mary’s City, Maryland, participating in excavation and archival research. Most recently, she completed her MA in Museum Studies from Johns Hopkins University. She is currently focused on collections management and making archaeological discoveries accessible and exciting to the public.

On November 16, 2019, the Penn Museum in Philadelphia, PA unveiled a number of newly renovated exhibits, including their newly designed African Galleries. The exhibit covers a 4,000 square-ft space where visitors have the opportunity to trace the paths of artifacts from their African beginning to their current location in Philadelphia.

“Unlike many of our other collections, many of these materials were either purchased or collected in Africa as opposed to excavated, but it is a really significant collection,” says Dr. Julian Siggers, director of the Penn Museum. He says this for several reasons. For one thing, this unique experience opens up the floor for conversations surrounding colonialism and its lasting effects — the Museum is shining a light on these objects and the often illicit means by which they were brought from Africa to the western world.

Dr. Tukufu Zuberi, the Lead Curator of the Africa Galleries, has led the changes in this exhibit, meeting with five different museum directors in Africa to establish a conversation and a partnership surrounding these collections. The museums he has contacted are relatively new, with great ambitions and aspirations; the Penn Museum hopes to establish a partnership and loan program with them soon, according to Siggers.  “I think one of the things that really separates this one out from other galleries is that it sort of puts it in a more anthropological context,”says Siggers. “We’re not treating these objects as art objects, but objects with a great deal of significance in how they operated.”

A Window on Benin

Perhaps one of the most notable artifact sets in the exhibit is from the royal kingdom of Benin. These objects were acquired after the British Punitive in 1897 and entered the art market between 1910-1920, where the Penn Museum purchased a number of works. “We have court art and regalia on display for visitors to consider the histories of the kingdom – the pre-colonial, colonial  and post-colonial histories,” says Dwaune Latimer, Keeper of African Collections. “Visitors will have an opportunity to reflect on the power and longevity of the kingdom and its colonial and current interpretation.”

The story of Benin, like other African countries, is one that is deeply rooted in the effects of colonialism. Siggers emphasizes, “To actually tell the story of the exhibition, to acknowledge that these objects were taken by force, we wanted to be transparent. We actually placed in the gallery a copy of the letter from the director for the museum to the art dealers in London to show how we acquired them. We wanted to be that transparent because we want to use this as a dialogue of what these museums should be doing with objects from Benin when their context is so clearly known.”

Although the Museum is using this exhibit to address issues of colonialism, it is also shining a light on the cultural and historical aspects of Africa, often not explored in the mainstream media. In addition to the topic of enslavement, the African Galleries focus on African commerce. Siggers explains, “Africa was not cut off from the rest of the world. It was heavily involved with trade in Europe, the Middle East, and India so [the exhibit] tells the story of Africa in its global position as well.” Continues Siggers, “[So] the Benin objects are really spectacular. They’re typical of African art, so I think people will respond to those. These are objects that influenced a whole generation of western artists as well, with people like Picasso having their world view shifted after seeing these objects.”

When asked what she hopes visitors will take away from their experience in the gallery, Latimer says, “I hope that the exhibition will illustrate that the cultural artifacts on display are only an example of the long and complex history of Africa and that it will offset whatever vague or stereotyped constructs visitors may harbor about Africa.”

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Above and below: Views of the new Africa Galleries. Courtesy Eric Sucar, University of Pennsylvania

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Ethiopian Cross, among the artifacts on exhibit in the new Africa Galleries. Courtesy Penn Museum

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The Stories Behind The Material Culture

In addition to the Benin collection, there is a mix of ancient artifacts and modern art throughout the exhibit, including beautiful ivory artifacts, combs, manuscripts, contemporary art, and African currency. “There is a great celebration of the ingenuity of African design as well,” Siggers says. “From the 1970s, but also a number of really amazing contemporary artworks that we commissioned.” The new galleries are working to elevate the stories of these cultures, and the voices inspired by these works. Latimer explains, “Material culture communicates to us in many ways but this particular exhibit aims to provide the context under which the artifacts were collected as well as tell visitors about the people that produced the artifacts and the collectors of the artifacts.  So, the galleries will allow people to reflect on African material culture through a cultural and historical perspective.”

Since the topic of colonialism is at the forefront of the conversation in the African Galleries, issues of repatriation are also being addressed head on. “The people to talk to about repatriation are not so much ourselves, but these other museums,” says Siggers. “So that’s what we want to do. This is part of a much larger conversation that’s happening in many museums across the United States and also Europe as well.”

 

The newly renovated African Galleries are part of the Penn Museum’s efforts to redesign their space and bring more global stories to Philadelphia. The African Galleries opened at the same time as the new Mexico and Central American Galleries. Visitors can also view the museum’s famous Sphinx, now on display in the main gallery.

Visitors can explore the African Galleries at the Penn Museum Tuesday through Sunday between 10am and 5pm.

Discovering the Royal Tombs of Macedon: A Story of Forensics, Politics and Nationalism

There are few archaeological sites so steep in controversy as Vergina in northern Greece; perhaps with the exception of ‘Troy’ where Heinrich Schliemann spirited away ‘Priam’s treasure’ from Turkish authorities, and Howard Carter’s bureaucracy-hampered digs in the Valley of the Kings. But the politicking at Vergina has been altogether subtler and more enduring.

Forty years ago, on 8 November 1977, Manolis Andronikos was lowered through the vaulted roof of a ‘Macedonian-style’ tomb, after the keystone had been removed in a reenactment of the favored entry technique of tomb robbers of old. Priests, press and politicians amassed at the archaeological site, set in the rolling countryside backdropped by the Pierian Hills. Word had spread that a newly-unearthed tomb appeared to be intact. Andronikos was tasked to lead excavations at the site under the auspices of the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki. Optimism at finding an intact burial chamber was suppressed by the knowledge that fifty of the fifty-one tombs already discovered in the region had been robbed long ago. But what Andronikos witnessed that day was quickly dubbed the ‘archaeological find of the century.’ His momentarily conflicted emotions of the ‘scientist’s elation’ with the ‘desecrator’s guilt’ was quickly cast aside when it became clear he had finally identified the long-lost city Aegae, the first capital of Macedon and the burial ground of its kings.

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The ruins of the palace and theatre at Aegae in the early 1980s. Grant (2019), color plate.

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The roof and facade of the vaulted tomb emerging from the soil, October 1977. Grant (2019), p. 51

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The keystone being removed from the vaulted roof of Tomb II. Grant (2019), p. 51

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The Controversy of the Cluster

The vaulted structure (labeled ‘Tomb II’) resided in a cluster of four; Tomb I was a simpler cist grave which had already been looted in antiquity, but it was adorned with a haunting wall painting depicting the Abduction of Persephone. Immediately adjacent was the foundation of what appeared to be a shrine, suggesting the worship of an occupant. Unlooted Tomb III contained the bones of a male adolescent and was soon referred to as the ‘Tomb of the Prince’. The last structure, Tomb IV, lay in ruins apart from free-standing columns framing the entrance to the largest and deepest chamber of all at the very edge of the tumulus.

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The relative positions of the tombs and shrine under the Great Tumulus. Grant (2019), p. 48

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In the opinion of the excavator, a chronology was being presented by this progression in tomb design, an observation which extended to the transitional architecture in the nearby ‘Tomb of Eurydice’ and even the Philippeion at Olympia.

In the main chamber of Tomb II, a fine gold ossuary chest held the cremated bones of a male, while a similar gold chest in the antechamber contained the cremated skeletal remains of a woman. Analysis indicated they were interred at the same time. This double burial hinted at unique historical circumstances, and the notion of forced or ritual suicide was voiced by commentators to explain their simultaneous interment.

The artifacts in Tombs II and III were visually dated to the mid-to-late fourth century BC, corroborated by pottery, ornate metalworking and the developed stage of the Macedonian vaulted tomb design. This dating spanned the reigns of Philip II (359-336 BC) and his son Alexander III, the ‘Great’ (336-323 BC), and the regal nature of the find was reinforced by the unique ‘Vergina Sun’ or ‘Star’ emblem of the Argead royal clan embossed on the lids of the two gold chests. The grouping of tombs was confidently dubbed ‘the cluster of Philip II’.

The discoveries at Vergina were first published in 1978. When referring to the tombs, Andronikos concluded they ‘belong to a time span which does not exceed that of one generation’. He added that ‘the date of all our finds was between 350 BC and, at the latest, 325 BC’, though he conceded they could stretch down to 310 BC, as that encompassed the murder of Alexander’s youngest son, potentially the ‘prince’ in Tomb III.

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A cross-section of Tomb II. Grant (2019), p. 53.

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The gold larnax from the main chamber of Tomb II in which the bones were laid. Aristotle University of Thessaloniki – Vergina Excavation Archive. Grant (2019) color plate.

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The dating was both ‘fascinating and frightening’ to Andronikos. “From 359 BC to 336 BC … there was only one king in Macedon, Philip II … Alexander the Great, who succeeded Philip in 336 BC and reigned until 323 BC, was buried in Egypt. Thus, we are almost forced to the startling conclusion: if the deceased had been a king, he was Philip!” he concluded, with the exclamation mark. Andronikos logically went on to suggest, with a little too much haste, that the female in Tomb II was Philip’s last wife, Cleopatra.

When proffering the identifications, the excavator was not blind to his self-perpetuating logic in which the argument and conclusion were mutually justifying loops. “The sequence of thought I have followed, from the chronological framework 350–310 BC for the objects which cannot be challenged … leads us to the inevitable conclusion that Alexander buried his father in the great tomb after his murder in Aegae” in 336 BC. “From this we formulate the very useful conclusion that all the objects in the tomb [II] date to before 336 BC.” Andronikos was unrepentant about his ‘vicious circle of progression’ and added: “I believe that only by such a dialectical approach … can academic thinking move to its ultimate conclusions.”  He did not foresee the backlash it was about to ferment.

The ‘Battle of the Bones’

Despite the labeling of the cluster, in the absence of tombstones, contemporary inscriptions or epitaphs, the excavator’s conclusions remained open to question. There began a thirty-year-long bitter ‘battle of bones’ waged through a series of academic papers designed to refute each other and challenge every assumption: the tomb occupants, their relative dating and ‘royalty’.

At the centre of the debate lay an ‘unfortunate symmetry’. When anthropologists first aged the Tomb II skeletal remains, it was determined that the male was 35-55 at death and the female aged 20-30. This permitted the notion that the occupants were either Philip II and his final far-younger bride Cleopatra who was executed with her baby daughter soon after his death by Alexander’s mother Olympias; or they were the skeletal remains of Philip’s half-witted son Arrhidaeus, who died twenty years later when of similar age and with an equally young bride. They were executed together by Olympias in her bid for survival in the post-Alexander world, which would explain the double burial in Tomb II.

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The entrance to the subterranean Archaeological Museum of Vergina. Grant (2019), color plate.

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Arguments for and against each pair revolved around wounds evident or invisible on the male bones when compared to the wounds Philip II received in battle; those famously listed in Demosthenes’ elegant oration On the Crown, for example. While some anthropologists claimed to see trauma, others argued the cracks and notches came from bone cracking in cremation. The tell-tale signs of a ‘flesh-burned’ cremation was presented as evidence of the immediate burning of the deceased, as opposed to the later ‘dry-boned’ burning of the already-long inhumed.

Besides bones, the hunting scene painted above the entrance to Tomb II, and even condiment pots found on the floor, were next proffered as dating witnesses. But it was always debatable whether the twenty years between the death of Philip II and his half-witted son Arrhidaeus could be discerned by purely visual interrogation of artifacts.

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The facade of Tomb II showing the entrance doors and remains of the hunting scene frieze above. Grant (2019), color plate.

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Recurring questions filled academic papers: Did vaulted roofs exist in Greece in Philip’s reign, or were they developed later following eastern inspiration after Alexander’s campaigns? Was the hunting fresco, with its depiction of a lion in the quarry, inspired by the Persian game parks he and his men hunted in, because lions were surely extinct in Macedon by Philip’s reign?

Counter arguments pointed out that Persian artistic influences had appeared in Macedon since its occupation by Darius I’s advanced expedition forces in the late-6th century BC, and vaulted structures in Persia had been built by Greek stonemasons centuries before. In Macedon the lion was a symbol of kingship and had been depicted on coins for generations, moreover Herodotus claims lions attacked Xerxes’ camels in Macedon en route to his invasion of Greece.

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Lion-hunt mosaic found at Pella with similar dating to the tombs. Grant (2019), color plate.

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But a more fundamental challenge emerged to threaten the whole debate: the very identification of the ruins at Vergina with the ancient city Aegae was being called into question. Greek archaeologist Photius Petsas had a well-known and long-standing antagonism with Manolis Andronikos dating back to their student days and competing excavations. Petsas had been vocal on the ‘incorrect identification of Vergina’ issue since 1977, when a transcript of his interview on the topic was published in the New York Times.

Potentially more damaging to Andronikos’ reputation was a letter to an Athens newspaper on 13 February 1978 by Dr Zachos of the University of Paris. His correspondence alleged that when Andronikos announced he might have found the remains of Philip II he was following a political agenda: the ‘nationalism’ evoked by the discovery aimed at securing victory for Konstantine Karamanlis’ New Democracy party in the 20 November general election of 1977. What Zachos failed to remind his readers was that Andronikos’ public statement, which ‘armed the quiver of Hellenism’, took place on 24 November, four days after the vote.

Opposing views were supposed to have been embraced in the search for answers, but instead a caustic schism had developed which, in some cases, hark back to decades-old personal rivalries and political divides. ‘Archaeology is not a science, it’s a vendetta,’ was the rather-apt summation of Sir Mortimer Wheeler, the British archaeologist who died a year before Andronikos found Tomb II.

In 1987 the gloves finally came off in the ‘battle of the bones’ when historian Eugene Borza articulated a direct challenge to Andronikos over his identification of an elusive sceptre in his 1978 report. A sceptre, Borza claimed, would have been passed down through the generations of kings, as it was in the Iliad from the gods through Pelops, Atreaus, Aegisthos and on to Agamemnon the king of Mycenae. Similarly, an Argead sceptre would not have been buried with Philip II, but passed on to his son Alexander the Great, and, in turn, on to his successor Arrhidaeus who was made co-king at Babylon. Borza went on to argue that a sceptre could, however, have been interred with Arrhidaeus because he was the last male of Philip’s direct line.

In personal correspondence, Borza asked Andronikos to explain why references to the sceptre had disappeared from his later reports. Andronikos explained that he had been mistaken in the original identification. Borza remained suspicious and inferred that once Andronikos had realized the relic weakened his argument for Philip II, he spirited it away.

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The royal line of Macedon in the 4th Century BC. Grant (2019), p. 76

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‘New Barbarians’ to the North

In 1991, while the ‘battle of the bones’ raged on, Yugoslavia dissolved and out of the fallout emerged a new socialist republic to Greece’s north. Its borders fell between Albania and Bulgaria in what would have occupied ancient Paeonia and western Thrace in the time of Philip II’s predecessors. Arguably a slither of ancient ‘Upper Macedonia’, the northern cantons annexed by Philip in his expanded realm, fell into the new state. Despite the questionable geopolitics, the new Republic of Macedonia immediately adopted a twelve-point Vergina starburst of the Argead kings to adorn its national flag. Blood ran hot in nationalistic veins from Athens to Thessaloniki.

Greece saw the republic’s name and its flag as national identity theft and demanded both be changed. Street protests followed on both sides of the border and airport names were changed in line with each nation’s cause. The new regime was duly recognized by the United Nations in 1993, but only under the title ‘Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia’ (‘FYROM’). Claiming ancient roots in the region under a tide of nationalism, FYROM accused its neighbor of stealing the biggest part of ‘Aegean Macedonia’ and incorporating it into northern Greece. The response from Athens was a blockade of the new Balkan player staking identity claims to the kings buried below Vergina.

The ancient Macedonians were Greeks, claimed domestic political commentators. ‘Our Philip and Alexander remain standard bearers of Greek culture and a Hellenistic Era when Greek culture spread to enlighten the known world’, the state newspapers reminded the world.

The stance remains somewhat ironic. Those born outside the borders of ancient Hellas were referred to wholesale as ‘barbaroi’, principally due to the noise of their harsh, discordant speech. The Peloponnesian War historian, Thucydides, who owned land in the Strymon River basin in the heartland of ancient Macedon, termed the ‘Upper’ Macedones ‘barbarians’ and contemporary Athenian orators like Demosthenes had hissed that the ‘Macedonians did not even make good slaves’. Moreover, the Macedonian army of Philip and his son smashed Greek power at the Battle of Chaeronea in 338 BC, thereby ending one-hundred-and-fifty-seven years of ‘democracy’ and Greece’s creative Classical Age.

Despite the enduring tomb uncertainties, by the time the Archaeological Museum of Vergina opened its doors to the public in 1997 under a reconstructed tumulus, the curators had no doubt about the labeling of the group: Tomb II was the resting place of King Philip II of Macedon, in the antechamber was probably his obscure Thracian wife Meda, while Tomb III did probably hold the bones of King Alexander IV, the murdered teenage son of Alexander the Great. The ‘official’ literature that followed was even more unequivocal on names, causing Eugene Borza to comment on one title: “The text is marred not only by the worst sort of nationalistic archaeology, but also by serious lapses in reasoning.” Yet these identifications ensured the museum was a commercial success, and this is how they remain today.

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Ancient Macedon and its occupied territories in 359 BC at the beginning of the reign of Philip II. Grant (2019), p. 16.

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The Tomb II Stalemate

Historian Dr. Miltiades Hatzopoulos is an expert on ancient Macedon. Watching on as various teams of archaeologists and historians drew polarized conclusions, he issued his summation in 2008 of the ‘cottage industry of Verginana’, as he termed it: “It is true that the issue has been obscured by precipitate announcements, the quest for publicity, political agendas and petty rivalries, which have led to an inconclusive series of down-datings and up-datings, finally disqualifying all the ‘scientific’ criteria – including forensic medicine – invoked.”

By 2009, the ‘battle of the bones’ had reached a stalemate when academics ran out of debating ammunition. Recognizing the impasse for what it was, The American Journal of Archaeology even called for a moratorium on ‘Vergina papers’ until new evidence came to light.

New Methodology, New Momentum

The tides of politics always tugged at the Vergina excavations, and the lack of harmony between ministries responsible for antiquities resulted in a chronic lack of funding for tomb forensics. Responsibility for the excavations have always been divided between the University of Aristotle in Thessaloniki, and the Ministry of Culture which oversees sixteen other projects with a total budget of 32 million euros for museums, monuments and archaeological sites in the region of Emathia. Over 7 million euros of development capital for the subterranean Vergina museum had already arrived from EU Community programs. Sadly, none of it had been allocated to studies on the bones.

The tomb debate was finally given forward momentum in 2010 when an anthropological team led by Professor Theo Antikas and material scientists led by Dr. Yannis Maniatis, with a modest 6,000-euro grant from the Aristotle University, commenced a several-month task of cataloguing the Tomb II bones; their ground-breaking study would last five years.

Complicating the anthropological work was the methodology of earlier studies: preserving solutions of silicon-based polymers covered the bones, while resins and adhesives had been used in bone moulds. Alginate residues with plaster featured in a facial reconstruction of the male, all of which left some form of contamination.

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The jaw and facial bones of the Tomb II male. Grant (2019), p. 131.

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To effectively analyze and catalogue the Tomb II remains, the team applied CT scanning and then each bone was catalogued with a unique number, with entries on weight, condition and morphological changes such as color, warping or cracking. Any signs of foreign materials such as rare minerals were noted, along with comments on the conservation condition from previous handling. They next photographed each fragment from every anatomical plane, capturing over 4,000 images.

The anthropologists were able to determine the male suffered from a respiratory problem, a chronic condition that could have been pleurisy or tuberculosis, evidenced by the pathology they found on the inside surface of his ribs. Visible ‘wear and tear’ markers on his spine indicated he had experienced a life on horseback, while further age-related changes to the male skeleton which had not been brought to light before, allowed the Antikas team to narrow down the estimate of the Tomb II male to 45 +/– 4 years at death. They did however find a trauma on his hand which could finally correlate with one of the injuries Philip reportedly received in battle.

Under similar scrutiny, in 2014 they found new incontrovertible age evidence on previously unanalyzed female bones from the antechamber. Her pubic symphysis, a reliable aging marker, put her at 32 +/- 2 years at death, ruling out Philip’s older brides as well as his young final wife Cleopatra, and discounting Arrhidaeus’ teenage wife completely and him by association. Spinal markers made it clear she had also endured a life in the saddle.

The identity debate always had to accommodate an ‘intruder’ weapon: with the female rested a gold-encased Scythian ‘gorytos’ in the style of the hip-slung bow-and-arrow quivers of the formidable Scythian archers. Over 1,000 excavated graves in Ukraine and the Russian Steppes have proven the existence of these female warriors who were often buried with horses, weapons, tools and their typical jewelry: glass beads, earrings and necklaces of pearls, topaz, agate and amber, as well as bronze mirrors and distinctive bracelets.

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Scythian archer, beardless and so possibly female, on an Attic plate dated to 520 – 500 BC, showing the traditional hip-slung ‘gorytos’ and compound bow. Grant (2019), p. 71.

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Andronikos originally mused that the Tomb II woman had ‘Amazonian leanings.’ Others were more skeptical of the ‘weaponized warrioress’ association. In what might be considered a case of archaeological gender bias, the subterranean Archaeological Museum of Vergina displays the statement: ‘Weapons were for men what jewels were for women’, despite the fact that no jewelry was found with the Tomb II female, apart from a sumptuous diadem and an austere Illyrian-type pin. The curators believed the quiver, greaves and spears in her chamber were not hers at all, but belonged to the ‘king’ next door, as their upright position against the dividing door could suggest.

The Antikas team put an end to that theory in another ‘eureka moment’ in 2014. They identified a previously overlooked shinbone fracture which had shortened her left leg. This was finally proof that the armor and weapons in the Tomb II antechamber belonged to her, because one of the gilded-bronze greaves in her chamber was 3.5 cm shorter and also narrower than the other and had obviously been fashioned to fit to her deformity.

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Professor Theodore Antikas with Laura-Wynn Antikas holding the shorter greave in front of the display cabinet in the Archaeological Museum of Vergina. Antikas team archive. Grant (2019), color.

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When compared to the three sets of same-sized greaves found in the male chamber next door, they had always looked rather feminine in proportion; she had indeed been honored as a warrior. If the tomb contents were redolent of the life and career of the chamber occupants, as commentators were inclined to believe, then this further narrowed down the list to females recorded as showing martial or pugnacious persuasions.

At one point, Philip II allied with a Danube-region Scythian king, Atheas, who resorted to adopting the Macedonian king to seal the treaty. So a daughter, given freely or captured after battle when relations broke down, might have become a final wife or captive concubine who was interred in Tomb II, explaining the presence of the quiver. But a Scythian daughter was never mentioned in the sources.

Neither were the Scythians renowned as metal smiths; the exquisite jewelry in their graves is of local Greek workmanship, likely from Panticapaeum in the Kingdom of Bosporus by today’s Crimea. But there was also a thriving metalworking industry in Macedon, where weapons and armor were fashioned for Philip II. The possible domestic manufacture of what could have included ornate goods for export to Scythian warlords in this unique era of diplomacy means the ‘Amazon’ of Vergina could have been born rather closer to home.

Problems with Provenancing Gold

Several more quivers have been found in Scythian regions with almost identical patterns beaten into the gold and they might be traceable to a single Greek workshop and artisan. Unfortunately, it remains troublesome to prove the provenance of gold ore from its ‘signature impurities’ such as platinum group elements. Many artifacts of the period were in fact made from electrum with a high silver and trace copper content. But the analysis of electrum is complicated when craftsmen ‘enhanced’ it by ‘whitening’ with added silver, or ‘reddening’ it with increased copper, after the separation process known as ‘cupellation’ from the base ore.

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Scythian gold-encased bow-and-arrow quiver found at Chertomylk, Ukraine. The overall layout and position of images is remarkably similar to the Vergina Tomb II example. The mounting of a gold ‘gorytos’, Scythian, Russia, 6th-4th century BC. Artist: Werner Forman. Grant (2019), p. 215.

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There also remains an unspoken ‘elephant in the room’: there is no mention in texts of any wife being buried with Philip II at Aegae, and if Andronikos was correct, inconsistencies in the dimensions of the vaults of the two chambers forming Tomb II suggest they were built or completed in different stages. The male and female were not necessarily cremated together or even at the same time; the different color of her unwashed bones reinforces that.

The Tomb I Bombshell

A further discovery had already put an end to one tenacious but erroneous avenue of the identity debate which misdirected scholars for decades. In 2014, forgotten and unanalyzed skeletal remains from Tomb I were found in storage below the Vergina laboratory; they were probably consigned to thirty-five years of obscurity in the aftermath of the ‘great’ Thessalonica earthquake of 20 June 1978 when the preservation of unlooted Tombs II and III was the focus of attention.

These additional Tomb I bones meant that the remains of at least seven individuals were identifiable, not only a male, female and a baby as one anthropologist had previously concluded from the few fragments he briefly saw; that had led to the notion that Philip II, Cleopatra and their executed infant were actually interred there and not in Tomb II, where, logic suggested  Arrhidaeus and wife were interred.

‘Amphipolitics’

Greek nationalism and a renewed interest in Macedon’s archaic past were heightened when archaeologists made their first entry into the massive tomb structure at Amphipolis in the summer of 2014. The Casta Hill tomb lay inside a 155-meter high mound surrounded by a 500-meter perimeter wall which lay outside Amphipolis’ once fortified city walls.

On 12 August 2014, as excavators prepared to go in, the Greek Minister for Culture and Sports enthusiastically exclaimed: “We have been waiting for this tomb for 2,300 years.” The Prime Minister, Antonis Samaras, hurried to the site with TV cameras in tow and promised that the dig in the “land of our Macedonia would be completed within a couple of days”. The Bishop of Thessaloniki promptly added: “Whoever may be buried inside the tomb, he is bound to be Greek.” These were deliberate slights to the parliament of the Slavic Macedonia in Skopje. ‘Amphipolitics’ was hitting the news and conveniently diverting the country’s attention from rising unemployment and Greece’s European Union bailout program which was supposed to end that year.

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The entrance of the Casta Hill tomb at Amphipolis guarded by marble sphinxes. Amphipolis, Greece. 25th Aug, 2014. Two battered marble sphinxes are seen under a barrel-vault topping the entrance to a late 4th Century B.C. tomb under excavation at Amphipolis in northern Greece. Archaeologists excavating the large grave mound have partially investigated the interior of the underground tomb which appears to have lacked a door in the doorway under the sphinxes. But it seems most likely that the tomb was plundered in antiquity. © Aristidis Vafeiadakis/ZUMA Wire/Alamy Live News. Grant (2019), color plate.

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‘Final Solution’ Forensics

But the ongoing Vergina controversy extended beyond the Tomb II bones. Two extremely large fused-together leg bones, which supposedly originated in Tomb I, made their way to the bone collection during a study by a Greek paleoanthropologist published in 2015. Dr Antonis Bartsiokas allegedly found them amongst the Tomb I skeletal fragments, even though they were absent from the original excavator’s report. The awkwardly angled knee bones, he argued, were ‘proof’ of the terrible wound Philip may have suffered in Thrace resulting in his well-documented limp. But on closer inspection they appeared to be ‘intruders’; Professor Xirotiris, who had worked with Andronikos when the tombs first emerged, publicly stated that he doubted the Bartsiokas-presented bones came from Tomb I, with all the implications that carried.

The ground-breaking finds of the Antikas-Maniatis teams were finally published in an academic journal in 2015. Microscopic forensics had identified textile stains on the cremated remains, while melted gold was seen on the cremated upper vertebrae of the male. Within a composite material found clinging to the male bones, the rare white mineral huntite and Tyrian Purple were bound in layers with egg white and clay, suggesting an undocumented Orphic funeral rite involved a striking ceremonial face mask, or posthumous death mask, redolent of the gold example from Mycenae termed the ‘Mask of Agamemnon’.

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The so-called ‘Mask of Agamemnon’ found at Mycenae. National Archaeological Museum of Athens. Grant (2019), color plate.

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The melted gold droplets begged the question of whether the ‘king’ was initially wearing his wreath as flames licked the funeral pyre, because the incomplete gold wreath found inside the ossuary chest showed signs of intense heat and lacked the pieces found in the pyre remains on the tomb roof. An ivory-and-glass-decorated ceremonial shield also showed signs of exposure to fire. It appears the dead king was presented to the onlookers ‘battle ready’ in his finery as the fire began cleansing his corpse, before being whipped away for interment below with his later-collected and washed bones.

Although hampered by underfunding and a lack of support from the Ministry of Culture, the teams continued to push for ‘next-generation’ forensics: DNA testing, radiocarbon dating, and stable isotope analysis of the bones from unlooted Tombs II and III. DNA could reveal any genetic family relationships, C14 dating of the bones would be a cross-check to the age of the tombs, and strontium isotope signatures might reveal where the occupants spent their early years.

The Ministry of Culture denied permission in 2016. Instead, the scientists were allowed to test the scattered bones found in looted Tomb I and a nearby ‘hidden’ grave near the city agora, possibly the secret burial site of Alexander’s murdered teenage son Heracles. But no formal funding was provided. Although the Tomb I bones lay exposed in soil for over two millennia at various levels, meaning it was difficult to establish who the original tomb occupants were, dating evidence and DNA results were successfully extracted, against all expectations, blowing apart yet more of the old identity theories.

The ‘Speaking Papyrus’

More recently, in 2017, Professor Richard Janko, one of the world’s leading papyrologists was able to identify letters on reassembled papyrus fragments from Tombs II and III. On a Tomb II fragment the letter Sigma was written in an older style symbol more consistent with the reign of Philip II, whereas on a fragment from Tomb III the same letter had developed into what is known as a ‘lunate C’; it appeared to be part of a list of chattels and tools for construction of funerary furniture, thus contemporary with the sealing of the tomb. The development of the Sigma argued that the Tomb III papyrus was written some years since the sealing of Tomb II, undermining the notion that Arrhidaeus was buried there.

What had become clear from the work of the material scientists was that an analysis of all contents of the tombs was required to piece together the identity puzzle, besides the skeletal remains and precious artifacts. The remains of wood, leather and potentially more papyrus still sits in storage with a semi-decomposed mass of as-yet unanalyzed material from the floors of the chambers.

With the possible candidates greatly narrowed down by the recent studies, further forensic analysis on the bones of the ‘king’, ‘queen’ and ‘prince’ might solve the identity puzzle once and for all. That is, if the Greek Ministry of Culture is prepared to let science challenge the name plaques at Vergina.

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The palace at Vergina undergoing reconstruction work, 2018. Photo by David Grant.

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Editor’s Supplement: The Treasures of Vergina

A Pictorial

The following represents a sampling of the remarkable finds from the excavations at Vergina, as currently exhibited to the public. 

 

Tomb entrance. MegAlexandrou, CC-BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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Tomb II (“Tomb of Philip II”) at Vergina. Back of facade and exterior of barrel vault with remains of funeral pyre. Mark Landon / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 4.0

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The Golden Larnax (Chrysi Larnaka) (with the Sun of Vergina on the lid) that contains the remains (bones) from the burial of King Philip II of Macedon and the royal golden wreath. Holger Uwe Schmitt, CC-BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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The silver-gilt diadem from the tomb of King Philip II of Macedon at Vergina, Greece. Mmurp105, Public Domain, Wikimedia Commons

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Queen Meda’s Gold Myrtle Wreath from the antechamber of tomb of Philip II of Macedon Aigai Vergina 336 BC. Holger Uwe Schmitt, CC-BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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Royal Crown. Rjdeadly, CC-BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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Royal armor of Philip II. Holger Uwe Schmitt, CC-BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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Bronze greaves (Leg Guards) from the tomb of Philip II of Macedon 4th century BCE Aigai, Vergina Greece. These pieces of armor were custom made for Philip II as he suffered a broken tibia, leaving one of his legs deformed. Mary Harrsch, CC-BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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Detail of wall painting in the Royal Tomb at Vergina. Holger Uwe Schmitt, CC-BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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The gold gorytos (combination quiver and bow case), shin-guards and neck armor of female in unlooted 4th Century BCE tomb of Philip II Vergina, Greece thought to be Queen Meda of Odessos, Philip II’s sixth wife, a Thracian princess who hurled herself onto Philip’s funeral pyre. David Grant, Public Domain, Wikimedia Commons

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Hades abducting Persephone, fresco in the small royal tomb at Vergina, Macedonia, Greece. Yann Forget, Public Domain, Wikimedia Commons

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Gold two-pin fibula with housing and chain tied in a Herakles tomb of Philip II Macedon Aigai Vergina Greece 336 BCE. Mary Harrsch, CC-BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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Bronze Lychnouchos (lantern) with Pan relief from the tomb of Philip II of Macedon in Aigai 336 BCE. This ornate bronze lantern housing a black-glazed terracotta lamp illustrates the originality and sophistication of the metal workshops of the ancient Macedonian court. The relief masks representing the god Pan and the decoration of the ivy leaf suggest that this lantern was used during royal symposia. Mary Harrsch, CC-BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

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David Grant, the author of this article, has been collaborating with anthropologists in Greece to identify the ‘mystery Amazon of Macedon’. His new book, Unearthing the Family of Alexander the Great, the Remarkable Discovery of the Royal Tombs of Macedon, is available from Amazon and other online retailers.

 

 

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Stela 14: Unlocking the Maya Script

It was fitting that her ashes found their final resting place in this place. Set high on the summit within the jungle-choked ruins of the ancient Maya acropolis of Piedras Negras in Guatemala, a small, simple, rectangular grave stone marks an almost wordless epitaph — only her name and the years that defined her birth and death are inscribed upon the marker. In life, those who knew her well called her simply ‘Tania’. But in death, written history best knows her as Tatiana Proskouriakoff, and it was here, in Piedras Negras, where her legacy really began.

Tatiana was born a world away from Piedras Negras in Tomsk, Russia, to a physician mother, Alia Nekrassova, and chemist and engineer father, Avenir Proskouriakoff. Her family moved to Ohio when she was only five years old. It was 1916, and by then the world had already erupted into war, her father having been tasked to oversee production of munitions for the Russian war effort. Plans were to return to Russia after his assignment. It seemed world events had other plans for this family, however. The Russian Revolution in 1917, which saw the end of Avenir’s Tsarist overseers, sealed the family’s  fate in the United States. They were never to permanently return. Tatiana became an American.

In the early years, her parents must have been clueless about her developing gifts until she demonstrated a remarkable proficiency to read at age 3 and showed an unusual talent for drawing. Her brilliance flourished after moving to Lansdowne, Pennsylvania, after which she graduated valedictorian of her high school class. But it was her drawing talent and education in architecture at the Pennsylvania State College School of Architecture a few years later that set the stage in launching a career of achievements that would revolutionize our understanding of one of the world’s greatest civilizations — the ancient Maya.

Revelations along the Usumacinta

Graduation from college came just in time for the devastation of the Great Depression, forcing Tatiana, like so many others in those times, to place her dreams on hold. A career in architecture had to wait. But, as the adage goes, where doors close, new windows open, and she took an opportunity to volunteer for the Classics Department of the University of Pennsylvania as a volunteer, producing archaeological illustrations. Her artistic excellence and architectural rendering caught the eye of Linton Satterthwaite, then the Assistant Curator of the American Section at the University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology (henceforth in this writing — the Museum, popularly known today as the Penn Museum). He knew she was fascinated with the archaeological exhibits at the Museum. Why not have her join the University’s ongoing excavations at Piedras Negras, a project also under Satterthwaite’s direction, to do architectural drawings of the monumental remains? Satterthwaite likely anticipated what Tatiana’s response to the offering would be — 1936, and it was off to the jungles of Guatemala.

 

Tatiana Proskouriakoff, the expedition architect for Piedras Negras in 1936. Penn Museum image #37401.

Piedras Negras hugs the eastern banks of the Usumacinta River, which forms a natural border between Mexico and Guatemala. Anciently, the river served as the vital lifeblood for Maya centers built near or along its route, not only as a source of water but also as an important trade route of goods between centers. Among the settlements were Yaxchilan and Piedras Negras, two of the most powerful cities of the Maya Classic Period. Situated high on the north bank of the river in northeastern Guatemala, Piedras Negras (anciently called Yo’k’ib’ or ‘great gateway’), was occupied since the 7th century BCE with a Late Preclassic period peak in about 200 BCE and another great florescence during the Late Classic period. It became the focus of extensive excavations by the Museum beginning in 1931.

Tatianna arrived at the site just three years before the Museum excavations closed, and by then the site had already revealed its distinctive character as a massive center featuring numerous beautifully sculpted stelae and hieroglyphic inscriptions. She soon demonstrated her remarkable gift for rendering the ancient architecture at the site, particularly her unique ability to visualize, based on analysis of the remains, how the structures would have appeared in their complete, reconstructed state.

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Tatiana Proskouriakoff worked extensively at Piedras Negras. Courtesy University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology

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“The acropolis at Piedras Negras. Restored view.” Watercolor by Tatiana Proskouriakoff, 1939. UPM neg. T4-206″. Courtesy University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology

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Notwithstanding her significant contributions to the visualization of Maya monumental architecture, it was actually years later when she made the discovery that arguably defined her greatest contribution to Maya research and archaeology. During the late 1950’s she returned to the Piedras Negras monumental record again to study the Maya glyphs that adorned the many stelae discovered at the site. Her previous work at other sites, especially Copán and its famous Hieroglyphic Stairway, led her to formulate a compelling new question:  Do the glyphs that so copiously illustrate Maya monuments actually represent Maya history and its rulers, and not religious or priestly matters, as the prevailing thought among scholars at the time suggested? The numerous beautifully carved stelae with their prolific range of glyphs at Piedras Negras provided a perfect test case for research. Tatiana went to work. Focusing on the inscriptions, she observed certain glyph repetitions or patterns common to all monuments. She eventually determined that some glyphs must have stood for birth and others for death, and yet others represented the names of rulers, lineage, capture of enemies, and other events and characteristics of Maya rulers. In other words, her earlier hypothesis gleaned from her study of the Hieroglyphic Stairway at Copán was confirmed — the inscriptions on the monuments represented the actual history, in this case, of Piedras Negras.

Tatiana’s finding was a game-changer for understanding the Maya. “In Tatiana’s day, people believed Maya cities weren’t really cities,” says Simon Martin, currently Associate Curator and Keeper of Collections in the American Section of the Penn Museum. “They were [considered to be] ceremonial centers ruled by priests. It was thought that the population didn’t live in the centers. They were scattered around in the forest, and they might have just gathered together [in the centers] for ceremonies and rituals.” Martin points to a key monument designated as “Stela 14”, now housed and on display in the Museum’s newly opened Mexico and Central America Gallery. It once resided with 39 other stelae at Piedras Negras. “The figures on Stela 14 were originally thought to be a god and then [depicted] down below a priest, who is making offerings toward her [see image right]” But at Piedras Negras, says Martin, “Tatiana started working on chronology and the relationship between particular dates and particular images on the monuments”. Referring to Stela 14, Martin says that Tatiana was able to recognize or identify a glyph inscribed with a series or column of glyphs on the side of the stela as an “event glyph”, which signified the occurrence of a very significant event in the Maya chronology of the site. “She hypothesized that this event glyph referred to someone becoming a king, which turned out to be completely correct. Thanks to Tatiana’s work, we realize that the seated figure is a king, and the one standing below is a queen.” Many Maya hieroglyphs, it turned out, were actually a record of the kings and queens and the associated events of their times. And more than that, Tatiana’s work was ultimately a key to deciphering the Maya script, something that had eluded scientists and scholars for years. Stela 14, and the other stelae discovered and studied at Piedras Negras, acted like a ‘Rosetta Stone’ for translating ancient Maya history and culture.

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Stela 14 at Piedras Negras. Courtesy University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology

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Glyph column along the left side edge of Stela 14, shown in foreground of exhibit space at the Penn Museum.

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Detail of the glyph column. The glyph at the bottom right is the ‘event glyph’ identified by Tatiana Proskouriakoff.

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Bringing the Ancient Maya to Our Back Yard

As was common among university museum-led archaeological expeditions of the time, a number of monuments excavated at Piedras Negras were borrowed and transported to the Penn Museum for exhibition and further study. Most of those monuments were returned to Guatemala in 1947, but today two objects, the aforementioned famous Stela 14 and a leg support for Altar 4, remain at the Museum and are now on display in the new Mexico and Central America Gallery.

The Penn Museum boasts “the largest collection of Maya stelae than anywhere outside of Mexico or central America,” says Martin. Those stelae now grace the exhibit space of the new gallery, including Stela 14. While the gallery is the largest exhibit of Maya stone monuments in the United States, it also makes clear that there was much more to ancient Central America than the Maya, and it displays this in a well-appointed array of select artifacts and other objects, organized by the various ancient cultures that defined this region of the world for centuries, such as the Olmec, Teotihuacán, the Aztec, and others. Martin’s hand is reflected in the displays. As an epigrapher, he has been actively engaged in research related to the continuing efforts to unlock the meaning of the Maya script and what they say about the story and culture of the ancient Maya. “Scholars today are moving on from Tatiana’s insights,” he says. Although much if not most of the script can now be deciphered, “we’re [still] trying to understand how the language was structured. We’re trying to decipher some of the unknown signs, and, more importantly, we’re trying to put it all together to understand ancient Maya society.” But time has unfortunately also taken its toll on recovered remains, frustrating scholarly efforts. “Stela 14 once had a longer text, but that is now eroded away,” laments Martin. “It would be useful to know a bit more about this ruler, but Stela 14 itself can be no further help.” In addition to understanding this ancient culture, Martin is also hoping the ongoing decipherment of the Maya glyphs may shed some light on when and, especially, why, the Classic period monumental civilization that characterized the southern lowlands of the Maya so precipitously declined and ‘collapsed’ between the 8th and 9th centuries. Some of the artifacts therefor reflect the end of this Classic period. “My challenge at the moment is to understand the ninth century texts and see what they can tell us about the collapse,” wrote Martin to Popular Archaeology. Martin’s study of Caracol Altar 13, for example, now a part of the new gallery exhibit, has been part of his efforts (see below).

For anyone interested in the ancient civilizations of this region, the new gallery is a must-see. But it is also worth noting that it represents only a tiny percentage of the artifacts and monuments discovered and still undiscovered related to this region—a visible reminder of how much we know about these monumental cultures, and how much we still don’t.

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The view as one enters the new Mexico and Central America gallery at the Penn Museum.

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Simon Martin with Stela 14 at the new Penn Museum Mexico and Central America gallery.

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Caracol Altar 13, now exhibited at the Penn Museum’s Mexico and Central America Gallery. Martin is studying monumental remains like this with the hope of shedding new light on the political dynamics of 9th century Maya civilization. This altar depicts interaction between two figures, both presumably kings or royal figures, but from different cities. “The two characters,” explains Martin, “are twice linked in the text by the term ‘yichonal’, which means “before” or better “in his sight”. Everywhere we see that between two people it denotes that the first person is “overseen” by the second. The left-hand figure, Papmalil, is ascribed the ‘ochk’in kaloomte’ title, which denotes an especially high rank over that of a standard king. Papmalil is mentioned three times on the monument—an unprecedented emphasis for a visitor—while the local king is named only twice.” Martin is not certain where the scene is taking place. It may not be at Caracol but at Ucanal (the left-hand figure’s city) instead, meaning that K’inich Toobil Yopaat (the king of Caracol) may actually be the visitor.

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One of four support stones for Piedras Negras Altar 4 (see below), as exhibited at the new Penn Museum gallery. Dated to 790 CE. For ancient Maya people, stone was not lifeless rock but a living thing. They believed that sculptures were infused by an animating spirit or force.

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As exhibited in the Penn Museum gallery, a replica of the ‘Margarita Panel’, part of the 450 CE temple facade in Copan, Honduras. It was discovered by Penn Museum archaeologists in 1992. The temple shrine was found by deep tunneling through the city’s main acropolis.

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Fragment of a stela, exhibited at the new Penn Museum gallery. Stone, 600 – 800 CE. The inscription includes a very large number counting up to 43 million years from a date in the mythological past to another date in the Classic Period.

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Statue of Water Goddess of the Teotihuacan culture, exhibited at the new Penn Museum gallery. Stone, 100 – 550 CE, Teotihuacan. The Water Goddess was a deity of fertility and abundance.

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Readers can read more about the Mexico and Central America Gallery here.

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About the Penn Museum

The Penn Museum (the University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology) is dedicated to the study and understanding of human history and diversity. Founded in 1887, the Museum has sent more than 300 archaeological and anthropological expeditions to all the inhabited continents of the world. With an active exhibition schedule and educational programming for children and adults, the Museum offers the public an opportunity to share in the ongoing discovery of humankind’s collective heritage.

The Penn Museum is located at 3260 South Street, Philadelphia, PA 19104 (on Penn’s campus, across from Franklin Field). Public transportation to the Museum is available via SEPTA’s Regional Rail Line at University City Station; the Market-Frankford Subway Line at 34th Street Station; trolley routes 11, 13, 34, and 36; and bus routes 21, 30, 40, and 42. Museum hours are Tuesday through Sunday, 10:00 am to 5:00 pm, and first Wednesdays of each month until 8:00 pm. Open select holiday Mondays. Museum admission donation is $15 for adults; $13 for senior citizens (65 and above); free for U.S. Military; $10 for children and full-time students with ID; free to Penn Museum Members, PennCard holders, and children 5 and younger.

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Becoming a Scribe

Klaus Wagensonner is a postdoctoral associate in the Department of Near Eastern Languages and Civilizations, Yale University.

Editor’s Note: The fascinating details of ancient civilization come alive most lucently through written records, and it was in ancient Mesopotamia when writing first advanced to the point where the human record really began to tell a story about the past. Mesopotamia has left us with a massive legacy of information about this ancient people’s literature, beliefs, government, diplomacy, conflicts, science, economy, trade, family life, and even their personal relationships, food and cooking. In this [edited] essay excerpt, author and scholar Klaus Wagensonner gives us an intimate view into how the ancient scribes, the creators of Mesopotamia’s vast written record, learned their craft.

 

Becoming a Scribe—Step by Step

Go! Knead your tablet! Make it! Write it! Finish your tablet!”—these brief instructions in a bilingual vocabulary offer a short glimpse into the daily tasks of a scribe. The apprentice started his training as a child, probably at the age of five or six years. The first step was to cover the basics: transforming a lump of moist clay into a tablet. The next challenge was to use a reed stylus to form intelligible signs on the clay. A famous line from a literary work points out, “The beginning of the scribal art is the single wedge”. To gain some routine, the student impressed his stylus over and over again into the clay (Figure 1), producing the horizontal, vertical, and oblique wedges of which cuneiform characters were comprised. Similar exercises can still be found in the late first millennium BC.

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Fig. 1: The first wedges, a simple sign exercise. From Klaus Wagensonner

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Handling a reed stylus is not straightforward and requires a lot of practice, as is demonstrated by the many surviving exercise tablets from Mesopotamia. The signs formed by the hands of young apprentices are often rather crude when compared with those of their skilled instructors (Figure 2).

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Fig. 2: “School lentil” with teacher’s (obverse, left) and student’s (reverse, right) hand. From Klaus Wagensonner

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The square, twocolumn “Type II”—and round “Type IV”—tablets were the main teaching tools used in elementary education. In the next stage of learning, students had to familiarize themselves with syllables, which were covered by several lists. While so-called syllable alphabets (Figure 2, right; Figure 3, left) helped students practice common signs, another list referred to as TU-TA-TI was arranged according to sounds (Figure 3, right). The entries of the TU-TA-TI lists are organized in groups of three, starting with the sign values tu, ta, ti followed by nu, na, ni, and so forth.

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Fig. 3: Practicing syllables: Syllabary Alphabet A (on left) and TU-TA-TI (on right). From Klaus Wagensonner

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In the next phase of their studies, the “sons of the tablet house” (Sumerian: d u m u e 2 d u b b a a ) had to expand their vocabulary. This was achieved by copying an important thematic list, a forerunner of what would eventually become a compendium spanning thousands of entries that according to its first entry was referred to as Ura, “loan.” This long list contained designations of trees and wooden objects, other raw materials, animals, geographic entities, and also food items. During the early second millennium, these designations were still almost exclusively Sumerian. In copying extracts, students usually just sampled the many entries of the list. On the “Type II” tablet, for instance, the student copied lines from Ura concerning domestic animals. At this stage, he was still far from being as accomplished as the scribe of a small tablet inscribed in an astonishingly tiny script, which contains almost two hundred entries belonging to the same thematic list; it dates a few centuries later (Figure 4).

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Fig. 4: A copy of the thematic list Ura dealing with wooden objects. From Klaus Wagensonner

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After Ura, students studied more advanced lists, including metrological lists and mathematical tables, but also syllabaries (such as Ea and Diri) and word lists whose entries are arranged according to their initial signs (for example, Izi, Kagal, and Nigga). An important feature of these advanced exercises is the increased use of Akkadian translations either in a separate sub- column or added as a gloss in smaller script.

Students were, moreover, introduced to a compendium on legal expressions that bore the title Ki-ulutinbishe, at the agreed time.” Learning specific legal clauses was an important task for scribes who would later enter positions in the administration.

Ki-ulutinbishe also prepared the students for the next stage in the scribal training, which dealt with model contracts, among other things. Through them students would learn how to contextualize what they had learned before: personal names, legal phrases, metrology, and vocabulary such as specific commodities. As a rule, model contracts lack a witness list and a date, which distinguishes them from actual contracts. Some model contracts were combined into larger collections (Figure 5).

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Fig. 5: A single model court case concerning inheritance (on left) and a collection of model court cases (on right). From Klaus Wagensonner

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Another exercise during this stage in a scribe’s education, and at the same time an avenue toward more advanced training in Sumerian literature, involved short sayings or proverbs (Figure 6), many of which were again put together in longer collections. Occasionally, some of the proverbs copied by the students would cast some interesting light on their own profession: A scribe may know only one single entry; but when his hand is good, he is indeed a scribe,” or A scribe whose hand can keep up with the mouth is indeed a scribe”.

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Fig. 6: A school lentil with instructor’s model text (a proverb) on the obverse (left) and student’s copy on the reverse (right). Below, a comparison of three different signs between instructor and student. From Klaus Wagensonner

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At this stage, the student had reached a point where he could handle the reed stylus properly and was relatively well acquainted with the intricacies of the cuneiform script. It is interesting that his entire scribal education had been based on Sumerian, which was by and large a dead language during the Old Babylonian period. The spoken vernacular, Akkadian, appears to have played a very limited role in school. If we are to believe a passage from Schooldays, one of the Old Babylonian literary texts dealing with school work, it seems, in fact, to have been actively repressed: “The Sumerian instructor (said), ‘You spoke in Akkadian!’ (and) beat me. My master (said), ‘Your hand is not good!’ (and) hit me”. Despite such statements, Akkadian model letters must have had a place in the curriculum (Figure 7). But according to the Sumerian “school debate” texts, knowing how to write simple texts was not the main goal of a higher education. In one of them, an advanced scribe by the name Girini- isa belittles the student letter;that’s the limit for you!” (Dialogue 3, line 20). The yardstick of true learnedness was apparently that one knew things that were absolutely useless from a practical point of view, but conducive to creating an “esprit de corps” among the members of the scribal elite. And one of the highest achievements in this regard was to become acquainted with Sumerian literature.

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Fig. 7: School text with a name list on the obverse (on left) and draft of a letter (reverse, on right) written perpendicular to the obverse. From Klaus Wagensonner

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The “School and Sumerian Literature

In the more advanced stages of the scribal education, the use of typical school texts decreased. Students copied instead from memory parts of major Sumerian literary compositions. Occasionally, we can even trace how long it took them to finish their work on a specific text and the sequence in which they copied certain works. The Yale Babylonian Collection holds six extract tablets, each written and dated by a scribe named Qishti-Ea. Thus, we know that on the twentieth day of month nine in year one of king Samsu-iluna (reigned 1749–1712 BC), he wrote the first half of a literary letter and completed this task on a second tablet five days later. A tablet listing incipits (that is, titles) of texts suggests that scribes copied out long bodies of text in sections as daily tasks.

Although we often lack the archaeological context, in a few instances our documentation is so dense that it almost seems we are able to look over the shoulders of the young scribes and join them on their “bench.On the eleventh day of month twelve of an unknown year, for instance, Ilshu-iddishu and Iddin-Eshtar got the same assignment: they had to write out lines 1 to 31 of a Sumerian hymn known as Lipit-Eshtar A. While the distribution of lines on either side of the tablets and their spacing are the same, spelling variants suggest that the scribes had to write these lines from memory (Figure 8).

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Fig. 8: Two copies of the hymn Lipit-Eshtar A (both reverse with colophon). From Klaus Wagensonner

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In the early second millennium, the corpus of Sumerian literature grew significantly. For about 175 of the approximately 550 known literary compositions, we have manuscripts that can be linked to scribal education.

Graduation

Apart from tablets written in the first year of Samsu-iluna, Qishti-Ea also produced tablets that date to his eleventh year. One wonders whether Qishti-Ea really spent such a long time finishing his training. But the tablets we have at our disposal are all extracts from literary compositions and thus typical products of a scribal education. 

Even the extracts produced by an advanced apprentice such as Qishti-Ea do not match in quality and scope the many large multicolumn tablets (so-called Type I or Type M) and prisms (Type P) that contain full copies of literary texts, sometimes even collections of several different compositions. In modern literature, these types of texts are often considered “school texts” as well, but their level of proficiency suggests that they were written by highly trained and experienced scribes.

A noteworthy example are four strikingly similar six-sided prisms clearly written by the same scribe in month twelve of the tenth year of king Samsu-iluna and probably originating from Larsa (Figure 9). Each of these prisms contains a full copy of a Sumerian literary composition, known in modern terminology as Lipit-Eshtar B, Iddin-Dagan B, Enlil-bani A, and Nisaba A. These four texts form a group called the Tetrad. Because of their comparatively simple grammar, they were first studied shortly after the elementary stage of education was completed.

What, then, was the purpose of the prisms, which were obviously written by a more advanced scribe?

Without archaeological context, the question is difficult to answer, but one could entertain the possibility that scribes who had finished their training and wished to mark their transition into a new stage in their lives deposited prisms such as these in the local shrine of Nisaba, the goddess of writing, as a sort of “final essay.

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Fig. 9: Four six-sided prisms written by the same scribe. From Klaus Wagensonner

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From Ancient Mesopotamia Speaks: Highlights of the Yale Babylonian Collection, edited by Agnete W. Lassen, Eckart Frahm, and Klaus Wagensonner, distributed by Yale University Press for the Yale Peabody Museum of Natural History in April 2019. From Chapter Eleven by Klaus Wagensonner. Reproduced by permission.

A special exhibition by the same name at the Yale Peabody Museum of Natural History runs until June 30, 2020. The book associated with the exhibition can be purchased at Yale University Press

A New Home for a Sphinx

Arianna Zakrzewski is an intern and writer for Popular Archaeology. She is also a graduate from Rhode Island College with a Bachelor’s degree in Anthropology. She has had an interest in archaeology since elementary school, specifically Egyptology and the Classics. In recent years, she has also gained an interest in historical archaeology, and has spent time in the field working in St. Mary’s City, Maryland, participating in excavation and archival research. Most recently, she completed her MA in Museum Studies from Johns Hopkins University. She is currently focused on collections management and making archaeological discoveries accessible and exciting to the public.

On June 12, 2019, the Penn Museum moved their famous Sphinx for the first time since 1924. After nearly 95 years in its home in the Lower Egyptian Gallery, the granite Sphinx of Ramses II, the largest ancient sphinx housed in the Western Hemisphere, took a trip through the museum’s courtyard to its new home in the soon-to-be renovated main entrance, making it one of the first objects visitors will see.

According to Dr. Jennifer Houser Wegner, an Associate Curator in the Egyptian Galleries and Egyptologist specializing in Egyptian language, the Sphinx was excavated in 1912 near the Ptah Temple in Memphis by W. M. Flinders Petrie, and was gifted to the museum as a result of their financial support of his work. For the first few years of its residence at the Penn Museum, the Sphinx sat outside in the garden, but in 1916 was moved inside due to concerns about deterioration. It was moved again in 1924 to the Lower Egyptian Gallery, which opened to the public in 1926, where it remained until the summer of 2019.

The Sphinx is dated back to New Kingdom Egypt, and is believed to have been constructed between 1293-1185 BCE. After spending years buried under the sand from the shoulders down, most of the object is still intact. The head, however, has sustained damage over the centuries from exposure to sand, wind, and direct sunlight. Despite the damage, the Sphinx has been identified as depicting Ramses II, otherwise known as Ramses the Great. The statue is made of granite, measures approximately 362cm in length, 145cm in width, and weighs just under 13 tons.

In preparation for the move, I spoke to Bob Thurlow, the Project Manager. Unfortunately due to unforeseen circumstances, I would have to miss the move itself; however, Mr. Thurlow described the procedure in detail to me in the days leading up to the event, and upon my arrival at the Penn Museum the following day, the scaffolding used to move the statue across the premises was still up. Thurlow explained how the move didn’t enter the planning stages until October 2018, despite the Sphinx exhibit having been closed in July 2018. Thurlow explains that, in 2019, it was “a lot less effort” to move the statue; “In the 1920s, it took 40 men and 15 horses to move it,” he said. “Now, it’ll take a compressor and eight people on the rigging and art handling team, plus the conservation team. The whole team will be made up of twelve people.” In order to complete the move, a scaffold was constructed through the courtyard, creating a clear path without closing off significant portions of the museum. The Sphinx traveled from left to right on the pathway, taking two turns before arriving at the main entrance. The moving team also had to work with a 20-degree incline. In order to complete the move with such a small team, they utilized what Thurlow described as “hoverboards.” The statue’s weight and density was a major concern for the move; composed of red granite, with a weight of approximately 25,000 lbs unevenly distributed with the right side weighing more than the left, the possibility of disaster was ever present. The team slipped air dollies underneath the statue, which released pressurized air that lifted the Sphinx a couple inches off the ground, making transport easier and safer.

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Photograph of the Sphinx during its last move in the 1920s. Photo Credit: University Communications, University of Pennsylvania

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View of scaffolding path from inside the Penn Museum. Photo Credit: Noelle Myers

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Outdoor view of the entryway in which the Sphinx re-entered the building. Photo Credit: Noelle Myers

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The view of the entryway used to re-enter the Sphinx through the building from the inside. Photo Credit: Noelle Myers

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The Sphinx inside the Main Entrance hall during renovations with the crew. Photo Credit: Noelle Myers

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Side view of the Sphinx alone in the Main Entrance hall during renovations. Photo Credit: Noelle Myers

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Head on view of the Sphinx alone in the Main Entrance hall during renovations. Photo Credit: Noelle Myers

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The reception to watch the move was held on June 12, 2018 in the Mosaic Garden overlooking the courtyard, and the event was recorded and streamed on the Penn Museum’s Facebook page. Everyone I spoke to about the move expressed their excitement for the completed project, and the “wow factor” visitors will experience upon entering the museum and seeing the Sphinx for the first time.

More Changes and New Openings

The successful relocation of the Sphinx is only part of a much bigger plan for change at the Penn Museum, however. In addition to the newly renovated main gallery, which is set to open in the Fall of 2019, changes will include select artifacts from each exhibit, giving visitors a precursory view of 10,000 years of human history. Visitors will also get to enjoy several new exhibits.

During the summer of 2018, when I saw the Sphinx for the last time before the Lower Egyptian Gallery was closed to the public, I also reported on the newly renovated Middle Eastern Galleries. Featuring a wide variety of objects ranging from pottery and coins to Queen Puabi’s headdress, the Middle Eastern Galleries are designed to tell the story of the birth of human civilization, drawing parallels between our ancestors and our modern societies. In addition to the objects themselves, visitors will also have the opportunity to join tours led by refugees, offering a modern, personal take on different archaeological locations as they tell their stories.

Another newly opened exhibit is the Native American Voices exhibit. Featuring objects from Native American tribes across North America and ranging from ancient to modern, the exhibit paints a clear picture of Native American life and gives a voice to these historically oppressed cultures. The most riveting part of the exhibit is the video projection in the middle of the room. Surrounded by benches to resemble a campfire, the projector is motion sensored, beginning the narrated video when it senses motion within its space. The video consists of several members of Native American communities, and tells their story in their own words.

Slated to open this fall are the African, and Mexico/Central American Galleries. Both exhibits have been closed since 2018 and are being redesigned to tell a more accurate history of these regions of the world. The African gallery, for example, will focus heavily on the colonization of the continent and address the often illicit practices in which many of our African artifacts in the West have been acquired over the centuries. As the Penn Museum has acquired most of their African collections through purchase, as opposed to excavation, the colonization and exploitation of these cultures is a conversation the museum wants to encourage with its new gallery.

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A lone stele that will be a central feature in the Mexico and Central America Gallery. Photo Credit: Noelle Myers

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A preview of the upcoming African Galleries at the Penn Museum. Photo Credit: University Communications, University of Pennsylvania

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These changes are meant to promote the mission of the Penn Museum, which is to “transform understanding of the human experience.” When asked what he hopes visitors will take from their experience at the museum, Dr. Julian Siggers, director of the museum, said, “We want people to know we are your museum.” Dr. Siggers, who has been the director of the Penn Museum for seven years, described the importance of field work at the Penn Museum and how the museum is working to interpret that research. There are 10,000 years of history housed within the Penn Museum’s walls, with a renewed focus on telling everyone’s story in a more inclusive environment.

The Sphinx will be on display again on November 16, 2019.

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About the Penn Museum

The Penn Museum (the University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology) is dedicated to the study and understanding of human history and diversity. Founded in 1887, the Museum has sent more than 300 archaeological and anthropological expeditions to all the inhabited continents of the world. With an active exhibition schedule and educational programming for children and adults, the Museum offers the public an opportunity to share in the ongoing discovery of humankind’s collective heritage.

The Penn Museum is located at 3260 South Street, Philadelphia, PA 19104 (on Penn’s campus, across from Franklin Field). Public transportation to the Museum is available via SEPTA’s Regional Rail Line at University City Station; the Market-Frankford Subway Line at 34th Street Station; trolley routes 11, 13, 34, and 36; and bus routes 21, 30, 40, and 42. Museum hours are Tuesday through Sunday, 10:00 am to 5:00 pm, and first Wednesdays of each month until 8:00 pm. Open select holiday Mondays. Museum admission donation is $15 for adults; $13 for senior citizens (65 and above); free for U.S. Military; $10 for children and full-time students with ID; free to Penn Museum Members, PennCard holders, and children 5 and younger.

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If you liked this article, you may like Merenptah Rising, a major feature article published previously at Popular Archaeology.

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Nefertari’s Tomb

Only a pair of mummified knees and sandals remained.

When in 1904 Italian archaeologist Ernesto Schiaparelli discovered and excavated the great tomb of Nefertari, Queen and wife to Ramesses the Great, the third pharaoh of ancient Egypt’s 19th Dynasty, there was virtually nothing to be found of the queen’s mummy. Among the scattered effects on the tomb floor, however, remained several items that could possibly be directly connected to her physical body — two mummified knees, a pair of remarkably well preserved sandals, parts of gold bracelets, and a small piece of an earring or pendant. Archaeologists also found small shabti figurines, large fragments of the queen’s pink granite sarcophagus lid, and fragments of a gilded wood coffin. Like so many other tombs, this burial chamber had been robbed in antiquity of most of its precious goods.

Despite this, a remarkable archaeological legacy remains. The ancient robbers didn’t take most of the wall paintings. Energy, time, and lack of portability got in the way. And this was fortunate for posterity, because to this day they still represent the most detailed and best preserved ancient Egyptian depiction of the journey toward the afterlife. Nicknamed the “Sistine Chapel of ancient Egypt”, the tomb also represents one of ancient Egypt’s best artistic documentations of its elite culture and the life and ways of one of its great queens. And personal: In poetic fashion, splashed across the walls of her tomb, Ramesses even declared the depth of his love for his wife:

My love is unique — no one can rival her, for she is the most beautiful woman alive. Just by passing, she has stolen away my heart.

Recently, select artifacts covering 520 square meters of floor space and 5,200 square feet of wall paintings could be seen at a National Geographic special exhibit entitled Queens of Egypt in Washington, D.C. The exhibit featured, among many other objects, a detailed scale model of the massive underground two-tiered tomb and a 3D visualization of the tomb wherein visitors can walk, much like a virtual reality experience. Beyond a visual telling and display dedicated to Nefertari, artifacts related to at least four other major Egyptian queens, including an exhibition of objects recovered from excavations of the worker settlement at Deir El-Medina (near to which the tomb of Nefertari is also located), and an array of other ancient coffins, were presented. The showing exemplified the prominent place Egyptian queens played in the ancient Egyptian culture and power structure.

More Than A Queen

Though Nefertari was one among a group of wives constituting Ramesses’ harem, she was, no doubt, first and supreme. She wielded enough influence to serve as a trusted advisor, and this extended to matters of diplomacy. As his Great Royal Wife, she corresponded with foreign leaders of the time and accompanied him on his military campaigns. Highly educated, she could read and write in hieroglyphics, a rare knowledge and skill for women, and certainly uncommon among most of the population. Revered and honored among her peers and the Egyptian population, she is known by many titles, including Great of Praises (wrt-hzwt), Sweet of Love (bnrt-mrwt), Lady of Grace (nbt-im3t), Great King’s Wife (hmt-niswt-wrt), His Beloved (hmt-niswt-wrt meryt.f), Lady of The Two Lands (nbt-t3wy), Lady of all Lands (hnwt-t3w-nbw), Wife of the Strong Bull (hmt-k3-nxt), god’s Wife (hmt-ntr), Mistress of Upper and Lower Egypt (hnwt-Shm’w-mhw), and ‘the one for whom the sun shines’. Nefertari’s prominence at court is also attested through cuneiform tablets from the Hittite city of Hattusas (today Boghazkoy, Turkey), containing Nefertari’s correspondence with the king Hattusili III and his wife Puduhepa.

Nefertari married Ramesses before he had ascended to the throne, and together they had at least seven children, with at least four sons and two daughters constituting the royal family.

Great honor was bestowed on Nefertari at Abu Simbel, in Nubia. She is represented in several colossal standing statues at the great temple, and a small temple is dedicated to Nefertari and the goddess Hathor.

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A report by science journal PLOS ONE published November 30, 2016, has indicated that a pair of mummified legs found in QV66 and now at the Museo Egizio of Turin (pictured above as exhibited on loan to the National Geographic Society’s exhibit, The Queens of Egypt) may indeed be Nefertari’s based on the bone structure and the age of the person, which fits the profile of Nefertari.  Habicht, Michael E.; Bianucci, Raffaella; Buckley, Stephen A.; Fletcher, Joann; Bouwman, Abigail S.; Öhrström, Lena M.; Seiler, Roger; Galassi, Francesco M.; Hajdas, Irka; Vassilika, Eleni; Böni, Thomas; Henneberg, Maciej; Rühli, Frank J. (November 30, 2016). “Queen Nefertari, the Royal Spouse of Pharaoh Ramses II: A Multidisciplinary Investigation of the Mummified Remains Found in Her Tomb (QV66)“. PLOS ONE. PLOS ONE. 11 (11): e0166571. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0166571. PMC 5130223. PMID 27902731

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Pair of well-preserved sandals found in Nefertari’s tomb. As displayed at the exhibit, Queens of Egypt.

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The remaining fragments of Queen Nefertari’s granite sarcophagus that were found within the tomb, on display on loan in the exhibit, Queens of Egypt.

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Who really built the tomb of Nefertari?

Popular literature and history have traditionally told us that the great tombs of Egyptian pharaohs, queens and the royal elite were ordered/commissioned by royal leadership and built under their direction. But we know the actual day-to-day labor for construction and skilled craftsmanship required to complete them was exercised by hundreds of workers. Such was also the case for Nefertari’s tomb. Archaeology has been prolific over centuries at revealing the artifacts, remains and monuments of the royal elite, but much less productive at uncovering the evidence for the thousands of workers who built and lived in ancient Egypt. This is in part because their remains, including their domestic structures, for a variety of reasons were much more vulnerable to the weathering vicissitudes of time. Some evidence has emerged, however, that has shed light on the workers and everyday lives of the non-elite population. No better example of this has been provided than by the discovery and excavation of the ancient workers’ village of Deir el-Medina, established to house and support the many workers, artisans and craftsmen who built and decorated the tombs in the Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens.

Known anciently as Set maat , “The Place of Truth”, it was excavated by Bernard Bruyère beginning in the early 1920’s, and the research has resulted in a detailed look at an ancient Egyptian community that thrived almost four hundred years, from the reign of Thutmose I (c. 1506–1493 BCE) until sometime during the reign of Ramesses XI  (c. 1110–1080 BCE). Located on the west bank of the Nile, across the river from modern-day Luxor, the village was situated close to the Valley of the Kings (to its north) and the Valley of the Queens (to its west). In its heyday it had about sixty-eight houses with a road running through the village.  The structures averaged about 70 m2 each in area, built of mudbrick atop stone foundations. Analysis of the excavated materials indicate that mud was applied to the walls and then painted white. Using wooden doors in front for entrance, the houses consisted of four to five rooms, featuring the entrance, a main room, two smaller rooms, a kitchen and a cellar, as well as a staircase to the roof. The main room featured a platform with steps—interpreted by archaeologists to have been part of a shrine or birthing bed. Also indicative of their religious culture, the houses appear to have contained niches for statues and small altars, and the village had its own tombs that featured rock-cut chapels and substructures with small pyramids. Many other small artifacts have been recovered, including tools and items for personal use, providing a more intimate insight into the daily lives and needs of the village worker population.

Like they have for their pharaohs, the remains of Deir el-Medina have served as an enduring testament to the reverence and regard the ancient Egyptians held for their queens. 

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Stela of Penbuy. From Deir el-Medina, New Kingdom, 19th Dynasty (c. 1292 – 1189 BC). A craftsman named Penbuy, his wife and son raise hands to a deified Queen Ahmose-Nefertari. Previously on display at the Queens of Egypt.

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A scribe’s wooden palette. Found at Deir el-Medina. As shown in Queens of Egypt exhibit.

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Mirror with hathoric handle. Personal items like mirrors were among objects unearthed at Deir el-Medina. As shown in Queens of Egypt exhibit

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